Need some rivet advice

[pendragon1998]

I'm restoring a block grinder and I'm going to be getting a reproduction equipment label plate made. The original plate was riveted on, (I think) with tubular rivets.

I don't want to just pop-rivet the new label on. I want a solid rivet appearance, so I think what I need is to install it with tubular rivets. My brief research thus far suggests that I could do it with a squeezer or with a hammer and rivet setter. I obviously don't want to scratch or damage the new label, which will be on .040 aluminum. Looks like squeezer tools are heluva expensive for what I need it for (setting 4 rivets), but I don't mind buying a cheaper tool - can y'all suggest what I should be looking at getting?

 

[bcschief]

How about drive screws a lot of data plates are held on with these. Like these http://www.rivetsonline.com/drive-screw.html

 

[Lx460]

I know when building AK-47s you need to a bucking plate to press from the back side and a holding fixture with a divot the exact size of your rivet. Then you use a hydraulic press to squeeze it in place. It's real easy to make them look like ****. Since it's only holding on an ID plate you wouldn't have to mushroom them too much to hold it on there. It's not like it's gonna blow up if it comes apart.

How much clearance is needed on the back side for the stator of the motor?

 

[raiderhillbilly]

How about Chicago screws? They come in stainless or nickel. If you put the screwhead on the inside, it looks like a solid rivet.

 

[Lx460]

How about Chicago screws?

Even better idea

 

[EdT]

Not sure exactly what the label is riveted onto, but it it's on a casting (like the body of the tool) it's likely those are drive screws. Drive screws are like rivet with threads that are driven into a hole in the casting. The threads are very coarse pitch so the rivet forms its own threads as it's driven in. The heads are usually really hard and I've had very good luck cutting a slot into the head with a dremel cut-off wheel and then unscrewing them with a small screwdriver. Sometimes you get lucky and you can get onto the head with pliers or vice grips, but the slotting method is more reliable in my experience. Some times you get really lucky and they are driven into through holes in the casting and you can knock them out with a pin punch from the back side. Of course, if you slot them, you'll have to find new drive screws which are fairly easy and cheap. A well stocked hardware with the endless little drawers of fasteners may have them. That failing, McMaster and other industrial supply places have them for sure. Good luck with them.

 

[pendragon1998]

How much clearance is needed on the back side for the stator of the motor?

Very little - about 3-4 mm.

Not sure exactly what the label is riveted onto, but it it's on a casting (like the body of the tool) it's likely those are drive screws.

No, it was riveted onto sheet metal.


Chicago screws might work, depending on how thick the backing part is.

 

[Lx460]

Please update with how it turns out. I'd like to know more details on the reproduction data plate such as material used, costs, turnaround time.

 

[pendragon1998]

Thanks for the suggestion of Chicago screws. I think a set of those should work ok. I found some small ones on ebay that will probably work.

Lx460, keep an eye on my restoration thread (link in my sig) over in Vintage tools and I'll update it with how everything turns out.

 

[pendragon1998]

Wulp, the chicago screws didn't pan out. I ordered a cheap set of the smallest ones and they were too large in head / shaft diameter for my purposes. I had a feeling when I ordered them that they would be, but I'll find something else to do with them eventually - I'm just out a couple bucks.

Now I'm thinking that I might try and find some 6-32 carriage bolts and slap a hex nut or a jam nut on the back of them. I should have just enough clearance for that, and maybe I'll add a little locktite just to be sure.

The problem is finding 6-32 carriage bolts without head markings. I found one place online that has them individually, but shipping and small order fee adds $15-20. Amazon has a seller offering 100 zinc plated for $12 shipped (kind of wanted stainless, but I'll compromise).

It's actually pretty hard to find 6-32 carriage bolts (imagine that! lol). I tried McMaster Carr, Graingers, Fastenal, ebay, bolt depot, zoro, Blacksmith Bolt & Rivet Supply, Amazon, and several other places.

Maybe instead, I'll just use a hex head 6-32 bolt from behind the center band and use a low profile 6-32 acorn bolt on the front. That might look nice.

 

[raiderhillbilly]

How about using an actual rivet with push nuts?

http://www.carid.com/dorman/speed-n...n-45423.html?gclid=CNb-j8vQrMMCFdcZgQodcrAAug

 

[RickP]

How about using an actual rivet with push nuts?

http://www.carid.com/dorman/speed-n...n-45423.html?gclid=CNb-j8vQrMMCFdcZgQodcrAAug

Those push nuts are a good idea. You might even be able to use drive screws with the push nuts.

 

[Kevin54]

WHy not just use the correct rivet, snd I can make you a tool to peen it over, whether it is a solid rivet or a tubular rivet,

 

[motobilt]

Bucking bar and a rivet gun. http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/2,402.html