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Removing Paint from Hard to Reach Welds

ChrisFox

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Nov 21, 2014
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49
Started a new rehab last week and we have to remove all the paint from the welds so the guys can come and check to see if they are good. Surface ones are easy with a grinder and wire wheel. What I'm having trouble with is the inside ones. Tried sandblasting. Works great till they break. We only got the cheap sandblasters. They lasted less than a day. Aircraft stripper works well, let it sit for 20min then hit it with wire brush or screwdriver but it's slow going.

Anyone have any tips on getting to those buggers any quicker?

These are what we are working on. 2 More on the right of this pic and 4 more in the shop.
wATDy7n.jpg


It's the center section that's killing me. They are about 7 inches deep, 2 on each side and there are around 18 little welds down in there. :eyecrazy:


sfFt4C3.jpg
 
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buildyourown

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Jan 8, 2010
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I've always burned it off with the rosebud, but you still need to be able to kinda get a brush in there to get the **** out.
I would pay somebody to blast the whole thing.
 

joe49

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Sep 25, 2009
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Tonica, Il
Cutting torch, burn the paint. Then hit cutting O2 to blow burned paint off. Inline torch would make the deeper parts easier.
 
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ChrisFox

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Nov 21, 2014
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Might try that today when I get to work. Wire wheel on drill is getting old.
 

tiggi

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Sep 12, 2014
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USA
You can use paint remover, apply nice thick even coat, let is sit for 10-15 mins and blast it with a hose or even power washer if you have one. Also they have aerosol cans if you cant get the brush in there. Just make sure you protect your skin and eyes because that stuff will burn you.
 
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ChrisFox

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Nov 21, 2014
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We put up the tent for sandblasting tomorrow morning. Asked the boss if they would let me burn off the paint. Apparently they know my predisposition for bonfires. Oh well. Hopefully I can talk them into buying instead of renting the good sandblaster. Every time we rehab a ride, all the welds have to be checked.

Scaler looks fun, even have the compressor out back.
 

BFBOB

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Sep 20, 2011
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TORCH???
Not me. I'd be concerned about that paint containing lead. Don't want to breathe lead fumes!
Lead dust isn't great either. Did you test the paint for lead before proceeding? Test kits a cheap these days.
 
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ChrisFox

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Nov 21, 2014
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TORCH???
Not me. I'd be concerned about that paint containing lead. Don't want to breathe lead fumes!
Lead dust isn't great either. Did you test the paint for lead before proceeding? Test kits a cheap these days.

We painted it 3 years ago so we're good on lead.
 
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sberry

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Even if a guy was going to blast them it would be about 30% the work with the paint burnt. Sandblast is slow and hazardous and is highly skilled. Using the right material helps. Hard sharp sand for paint is 10x as fast as fine soft sand.
 
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ChrisFox

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Nov 21, 2014
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We got the guys coming in next week I think to check all the welds. Got the sandblast tent going tonight. 1 guy in the tent, 3 guys with angle grinders getting the easy stuff and 2 of us with aircraft remover and scrapers and whatever we can use. Trimming down the wire brush helped get into the corners. Welded it to a 5 inch bolt I cut the head off of. Now I can get in there. With that aircraft stuff sitting for about 20min then go after it with drill, it comes of fairly quickly.

Little bit more trimming after this pic did the trick.
8cpkiQl.jpg
 

welder4956

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Apr 8, 2010
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Birmingham, AL USA
Professional sandblast company would make quick work of that job. The cost to send it out would probably be less than the labor you have already spent on it. Grit blast with Black Beauty would clean it quick.
 

mechan

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Apr 16, 2009
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401
Unless they are sand blasted and cleaned well afterwards to remove any deposits that would cause an erroneous spot to bleed you may as well not pay for a VT or PT inspection ...
 
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ChrisFox

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Nov 21, 2014
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Scheduled maintenance. Big ones are the swing arms and little ones are the center supports to these.

KTSPzJT.jpg
 

boobag

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Aug 15, 2010
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Scheduled maintenance. Big ones are the swing arms and little ones are the center supports to these.

http://i.imgur.com/KTSPzJT.jpg[/MG][/QUOTE]
can you strip them completly and have them plated, so that you never go through this again?
 

rockwithjason

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Jan 8, 2006
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Las Vegas
TORCH???
Not me. I'd be concerned about that paint containing lead. Don't want to breathe lead fumes!
Lead dust isn't great either. Did you test the paint for lead before proceeding? Test kits a cheap these days.

unless the items are 70's vintage or older this is a non issue
 

Zrexxer

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Pflugerville, TX
unless the items are 70's vintage or older this is a non issue
That's not even close to true... unless it was painted with house paint. Industrial and agricultural coatings are exempt from the LBP ban, and to the best of my knowledge, are still being manufactured for sale in the US.
 
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Jan 9, 2012
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Just bought one of them to clean off the rusty frame on our new/old 1988 Winnebago Chieftain, it works great, wish I had bought it 2 years ago when I blasted my 1990 Dakota pickup convertibles frame! They are cheap at HF , buy a couple xtra packs of needles and keep it oiled up good!
 

bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
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Pasquotank, NC
Needle gun sounds like fun?! You have obviously never ran a needle gun for 10 hours a day, 6 days a week. I loathe those things. If you can get away w/ torching the paint take that route. We can't do that due to safety. I would say the sand blaster is your best bet. As a side note, we test all paint and have found new paint to contain high levels of Cadmium and other fun stuff. Lead isn't the only hazard to be concerned about. You should pull paint samples before all work.
 
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