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How long will sand blasting sand last?

gayler

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Lakin Kansas
When its worn out is it more round and lost the sharp edges? I don't know anything about the stuff. The local nat gas plant blasted two oil storage tanks for repainting and they are bringing the sand to the landfill I work at. I have the results from the test showing that it as no heavy metals or other bad stuff in it. They have 19 55 gal drums of the stuff. Is it worth saving in case get a blaster?
 
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lakeroadster

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IMO, I wouldn't re-use the sand you are referencing. It may have lead based paint particles & other contaminates in it.

As for re-using blasting media: I re-use blasting media about 3 times. The issue is it breaks down and gets to fine. When it is too fine it will not work nearly as well.

You'll need to sift / strain it between uses to get foreign particles out.

Also, try using something like Nickle Slag or Coal Slag. Sand has all kinds of health issues when used as a media for blasting and there are better choices.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis

http://www.unitedwesterndenver.com/...=category&virtuemart_category_id=6&Itemid=104
 
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MFolks

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Springfield Mo.
Eventually, the sharp edged grains become dust, so kinda depends on what was blasted, and how high of an air pressure was used. The place I worked at in California, about 11 years ago, used ground glass as a blasting medium on Steel, Aluminum. and SS, and it would wear out after a while.
 
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gayler

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Sep 22, 2011
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Lakin Kansas
IMO, I wouldn't re-use the sand you are referencing. It may have lead based paint particles in it.

As for re-using blasting media: I re-use blasting media about 3 times. The issue is it breaks down and gets to fine. When it is too fine it will not work nearly as well.

You'll need to sift / strain it between uses to get foreign particles out.

Also, try using something like Nickle Slag or Coal Slag. Sand has all kinds of health issues when used as a media for blasting and there are better choices.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis

http://www.unitedwesterndenver.com/...uemart_product_id=19&virtuemart_category_id=9

No lead or other heavy metals or other nasties in it. I have the test results on it. I'll check it out when it show up later.
 

Hpozzuoli

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Dec 11, 2013
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Rhode Island
IMO, I wouldn't re-use the sand you are referencing. It may have lead based paint particles in it.

As for re-using blasting media: I re-use blasting media about 3 times. The issue is it breaks down and gets to fine. When it is too fine it will not work nearly as well.

You'll need to sift / strain it between uses to get foreign particles out.

Also, try using something like Nickle Slag or Coal Slag. Sand has all kinds of health issues when used as a media for blasting and there are better choices.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis

http://www.unitedwesterndenver.com/...=category&virtuemart_category_id=6&Itemid=104

This is pretty much it. I find 2-3 times of use until too much forgein matter gets in there. Also the media starts to lose its abrasiveness as well.
 

pi_guy

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I use the recommended vacuum cleaner. This pulls much of the dust out and the lighter particles. I just keep adding to the pile. It is more important to keep cleaning the vacuum cleaner. That gets clogged after 3 or 4 hours of use.
 

rdn2blazer

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So Cal/South Bay area, Calif.
Best setup is a dust separator. ***** the dust without sucking the heavier grit. Sand is for sand blasing houses for repaint or other uses. Sand shouldn't be used for metal parts unless it's been dried. Grit is what you want to use in a grit blast cabinet for metal parts. Aluminum Oxide, Glass bead, Carbide, Walnut shells, ect. The is a ton of different types of blasing medie, but sand isn't very effiecient for metal parts. You need sharp edges where as sand has none. It's the velocity that makes it work. Grit cuts because of it's sharp edges.

Last machine shop I worked at was a thermal coating company, I was machine shop lead machinist and shop lead. We had 14 grit blast cabinets of varying sizes up to and including a walk in. We used every kind of grit you can get. All but a couple cabinets had timers spicifically for grit wear. The cabinet pressure would shut off and could not be turned back on without new grit being put in and the timer reset by a manager. That guaranteed clean efficient cutting grit at all times. We had specs to meet regarding surface roughness before for thermal spray coatings.

Coating for the aerospace and aircraft industry, you name it, any and all industries. But manily aerospace and aircraft. Good yet fairly affordable grit is Aluminum Oxide. Holds up fairly well for a while under regular daily use. Higher pressure does break down grit faster but cuts faster too. Its a trade off of course. Carbide grit cuts and last a long time, but is not cheap. Glass beas is for delicate blasting and minimum surface deterioration and wont heat part surface as much as more agressive grit. The angle of blast effects wear. Straight direct blasting cuts good but wears grit faster. Angle the flow for less wear while still cutting good. There is more to grit blasting then you would think. You can combine grit too for different cutting action.

Some grit you do not want to use on certain types of materials. Will heat part surface, can cause warping and can imbed in the parent material causing issues. At least for thermal spray applications and painting and other reasons.
 
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404

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Aug 23, 2014
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Mass
Best setup is a dust separator. ***** the dust without sucking the heavier grit. Sand is for sand blasing houses for repaint or other uses. Sand shouldn't be used for metal parts unless it's been dried. Grit is what you want to use in a grit blast cabinet for metal parts. Aluminum Oxide, Glass bead, Carbide, Walnut shells, ect. The is a ton of different types of blasing medie, but sand isn't very effiecient for metal parts. You need sharp edges where as sand has none. It's the velocity that makes it work. Grit cuts because of it's sharp edges.

Last machine shop I worked at was a thermal coating company, I was machine shop lead machinist and shop lead. We had 14 grit blast cabinets of varying sizes up to and including a walk in. We used every kind of grit you can get. All but a couple cabinets had timers spicifically for grit wear. The cabinet pressure would shut off and could not be turned back on without new grit being put in and the timer reset by a manager. That guaranteed clean efficient cutting grit at all times. We had specs to meet regarding surface roughness before for thermal spray coatings.

Coating for the aerospace and aircraft industry, you name it, any and all industries. But manily aerospace and aircraft. Good yet fairly affordable grit is Aluminum Oxide. Holds up fairly well for a while under regular daily use. Higher pressure does break down grit faster but cuts faster too. Its a trade off of course. Carbide grit cuts and last a long time, but is not cheap. Glass beas is for delicate blasting and minimum surface deterioration and wont heat part surface as much as more agressive grit. The angle of blast effects wear. Straight direct blasting cuts good but wears grit faster. Angle the flow for less wear while still cutting good. There is more to grit blasting then you would think. You can combine grit too for different cutting action.

Some grit you do not want to use on certain types of materials. Will heat part surface, can cause warping and can imbed in the parent material causing issues. At least for thermal spray applications and painting and other reasons.

Great post. :beer::thumbup:
 

rdn2blazer

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So Cal/South Bay area, Calif.
Great post. :beer::thumbup:



Thanks. Sorry, I don't spell check. I don't give a **** if I mis spell a damn thing. And I know it bothers the spelling nazi's on most sites and I don't mind ******* those guys off. lol. I've been in the machining, welding, fabrication world for about 3 decades. I'm always happy to help anybody if I can.
 
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gayler

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Lakin Kansas
This stuff is pretty clean with only some small paint flakes. It is a light light tan almost white and feels veery abrasive to my hands.
 

91bronc300

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Oct 19, 2009
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2,559
I case you get a blaster? I don't think I would want to have a HEAVY 55 gallon drum sitting around my place just 'in case' I get a sand blaster. Especially when a 50 lbs bag of black diamond is less than ten bucks at the local store and can be reused a couple of times. This is just a DIY setup you might get in the future right? I'd save my garage space if I were you.
 

404

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Aug 23, 2014
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Mass
Thanks. Sorry, I don't spell check. I don't give a **** if I mis spell a damn thing. And I know it bothers the spelling nazi's on most sites and I don't mind ******* those guys off. lol. I've been in the machining, welding, fabrication world for about 3 decades. I'm always happy to help anybody if I can.

Your post was fine. :beer:
Spelling doesn't bother me except for the people who write the phonetic equivalent of an accent. Those are too slow for me to read because I have to sound out each word, so I block them. I don't understand the general mis-spelling hate on forums either.

The content of your post is what matters. If I want to read something with perfect spelling I have a dictionary in the bathroom. That way I don't get bored and have to rush. :lol_hitti
 
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gayler

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Sep 22, 2011
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Lakin Kansas
Thanks guys! I was just curious. Most likely won't be taking any home. For what it's worth I would rather read a few or more misspelled words than have spellcheck butcher what I meant to say. Spellcheck *****!!!! :eyecrazy:
 
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