Pole barn interior steel panel questions

[G-ManBart]

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to do the ceiling and walls in the shop on my pole barn and had a couple of questions. I'm putting up steel dura-panels from Menards for a couple of reasons...cost, truss spacing, etc. I did a search, but got so many results it wasn't helpful, so I apologize if this has been covered before.

What trim combination do most folks use where the ceiling panels meet the wall panels? J trim on one, both, or some other combination?

I'm also undecided on what trim, if any, to put on the bottom of the wall panels. The panels will meet the foundation on three of the walls, and one will go all the way to the slab. I'll add pictures below to make it more clear what I'm looking at. BTW, I will add a vapor barrier to the ceiling in case anybody is wondering

Lastly, on the stick framed partition wall (2x4 16" OC) I need to add strapping, but would rather not use 2x4 purlins like I have to use between the posts on the other walls. I've seen some folks use metal strapping that looks to be 3-4" wide, and fairly thin, but have no idea where to get something like that....any ideas?

These give a pretty good idea of the layout and you can see I started on the side insulation and purlins:

 

[Burb]

I put the ceiling up as is, then ran J channel around the entire top for the walls to tuck in to. Also used J at the start of each wall(vertical), but not at the ends, the J start for the next wall covers this up. As far as the floor I didn't use any trim, but I did make sure to put the cut ends of the walls up so it was hidden in the trim, and that way the factory edge fit flush with the floor.

 

[G-ManBart]

I put the ceiling up as is, then ran J channel around the entire top for the walls to tuck in to. Also used J at the start of each wall(vertical), but not at the ends, the J start for the next wall covers this up. As far as the floor I didn't use any trim, but I did make sure to put the cut ends of the walls up so it was hidden in the trim, and that way the factory edge fit flush with the floor.

Cool...that helps. I was definitely going to keep the factory edge down if I go without trim on the bottom. I had the panels cut to fit, so I'll probably test fit one to see how close they came out....if I have a gap, I can add trim.

 

[Nekit]

On my ceiling I used metal that is made for ceilings. It is much taller in thickness and can handle spanning between my trusses. Not sure if Menards has it, but I think my ceiling would bow down pretty badly with normal steel siding. I have about 10" of blown in insulation above mine too.

 

[Nekit]

Just looking at your pictures and looks like you have a much smaller span in ceiling than I do. I have 8' between trusses. Regular steel might be fine in yours.

 

[shelbyz28]

My ceiling was installed by the builder on a rim of 2x6s I installed at a specified height. I then added 2x4s laid flat on the 2x6s for a top edge (painted to match the wall) that'll make a nice air line nailer later. On the bottom, after putting a treated nailer flat against the posts at the bottom, I ripped treated 2x4s to about 2x2, left the treated edge against the concrete and set my panels on that. I then caulked the wood to the floor to keep water from going underneath. The wood also keeps the panels from touching the floor and getting wet or rusting.

Basically, all of my sheeting is 1.5" from the posts with an additional board above and below. Pretty much the only trim I used was around doors and windows, and inside corner trim (like a 4x4 L shape). Trim is stupid expensive, hence the wood above and below.

 

[Burb]

8' between trusses would definitely cause bowing. Mine are at 4' and the stuff from Menards worked fine, no bowing at all with 10" of cellulose blown on top.

 

[jimmi11]

I like the way you do work.visible neat

 

[G-ManBart]

Just looking at your pictures and looks like you have a much smaller span in ceiling than I do. I have 8' between trusses. Regular steel might be fine in yours.

Yeah, mine are 4' spacing, and the normal Dura-panel Menard's sells is rated for that span, so I'm not overly worried on that front, but I am keeping that in mind was I plan for more insulation.

 

[mod600]

This the trim they used in my shop... I've got steel on the ceiling and am sheeting the walls with OSB.
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...j-trim-with-frieze-large/p-2031460-c-5720.htm

 

[G-ManBart]

My ceiling was installed by the builder on a rim of 2x6s I installed at a specified height. I then added 2x4s laid flat on the 2x6s for a top edge (painted to match the wall) that'll make a nice air line nailer later. On the bottom, after putting a treated nailer flat against the posts at the bottom, I ripped treated 2x4s to about 2x2, left the treated edge against the concrete and set my panels on that. I then caulked the wood to the floor to keep water from going underneath. The wood also keeps the panels from touching the floor and getting wet or rusting.

Basically, all of my sheeting is 1.5" from the posts with an additional board above and below. Pretty much the only trim I used was around doors and windows, and inside corner trim (like a 4x4 L shape). Trim is stupid expensive, hence the wood above and below.

That's an interesting way of going about it....never would have thought of it myself!

I bought enough J channel to go around the top one time, and it was only $55, which seemed reasonable to me....roughly $5 per 10' length.

 

[G-ManBart]

I like the way you do work.visible neat

If that's for me...thanks! I can only claim some of it as I paid a builder to erect the exterior walls/ceiling, and get it dried in. He had never built one with a poured foundation and the brackets for the posts, but he said he liked how it turned out. After he put up the back wall he said he was shocked how stiff it was with the brackets and poles versus poles in the ground set in concrete.

 

[G-ManBart]

This the trim they used in my shop... I've got steel on the ceiling and am sheeting the walls with OSB.
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...j-trim-with-frieze-large/p-2031460-c-5720.htm

Man, I don't know how I missed that! That would be perfect, and about the same cost as using two pieces of J to get the same outcome. Thanks!

 

[joes169]

I put the ceiling up as is, then ran J channel around the entire top for the walls to tuck in to. Also used J at the start of each wall(vertical), but not at the ends, the J start for the next wall covers this up. As far as the floor I didn't use any trim, but I did make sure to put the cut ends of the walls up so it was hidden in the trim, and that way the factory edge fit flush with the floor.

This is similar to the way I installed steel in the last tow shops I did. Two other things I did that may help:

- I installed the ceiling upside down (ribs up) as I think it's looks much nicer, installs easier and flatter, and you can run conduit, etc. in the ribs.

- I measured well ahead of time and made a template sheet with holes pre-marked. I laid scrap lumber under each row of screw holes on the floor, and used an awl to pre-punch the holes. Once you have the template, you can punch 3-4 sheets at a time. Self-drilling screws may seem like an easy alternative, but when you're wrestling these sheets at the ceiling, pre-punched holes are great...........

 

[G-ManBart]

This is similar to the way I installed steel in the last tow shops I did. Two other things I did that may help:

- I installed the ceiling upside down (ribs up) as I think it's looks much nicer, installs easier and flatter, and you can run conduit, etc. in the ribs.

- I measured well ahead of time and made a template sheet with holes pre-marked. I laid scrap lumber under each row of screw holes on the floor, and used an awl to pre-punch the holes. Once you have the template, you can punch 3-4 sheets at a time. Self-drilling screws may seem like an easy alternative, but when you're wrestling these sheets at the ceiling, pre-punched holes are great...........

Interesting....any chance you have a picture of the ceiling with the upside-down panels?

 

[Ck1]

I also have a stick framed wall and need to figure out what strapping to use to attach the steel sheeting to. I have the dura panels on the ceiling. Wish I would have used that double j channel that is linked above.

 

[joes169]

If you're trying to save a little space, 1x2's or 1x3's are cheap and easy to work with. If you want to save even more room, you could probably use metal "let in bracing":

https://www.google.com/search?q=met...Fs%3Dcb83dc0060e43f1165b2d525352a04ca;300;300

 

[joes169]

Interesting....any chance you have a picture of the ceiling with the upside-down panels?

I'll take a picture later tonight and try to load it......

 

[INTMD8]

Bringing this back from the dead. Any pics of this trim installed? I'm going to be doing ceiling/walls in dura panel in the next few weeks.

Thanks!