Concrete Ditch

[oilfield_mafia]

Whats up group? New to this board, and to customizing my shop in general. I have a 30x50 shop and I have some runoff issues when it rains here.. The water seeps under the 18' door and of course gets in my shop.

I am ready to start on the inside finally, since I got some time off work now, but I need to make some way of diverting the water from going to my shop door.

There are no permits to worry about, or elec lines or anything. What I was thinking about l attempted to draw and have attached.. Is there any way for a new DIY'er to tackle this 35' long ditch?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[nadogail]

Put a concrete cutting blade (abrasive disc) in your worm drive saw. Snap two lines and go for it. Set your drainage in grout.

 

[oilfield_mafia]

Aw man, I have no idea what any of that meant.. Whats a worm drive saw? and whats snap two lines mean? This is my very first concrete project aside from some corner posts in a fence.

Thanks for answering so fast though.

 

[rickairmedic]

Well the worm drive saw is a gear driven skill saw instead of the usual homeowner type direct drive skil saw. and snapping 2 lines would require a chalk line and 2 peaple actually most likely 3 peaple over 35' one on either end of the line and one in the middle to snap the string which will deposit the chalk in a line on the ground.


Worm drive saw

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=81341-353-SHD77M&lpage=none



Rick

 

[nonhog]

Aw man, I have no idea what any of that meant.. Whats a worm drive saw? and whats snap two lines mean? This is my very first concrete project aside from some corner posts in a fence.

Thanks for answering so fast though.

Worm drive is a more powerful circular saw. Snap line is using a chaulk line.
Just a way of marking where you need to cut.

 

[Torque1st]

Just dig a ditch pitched the right way. Put the concrete liner and grate in any area you have to have wheeled access or walk across. Expanded metal will not hold up well to anything heavy.

The OP does not need to cut concrete etc from his picture.

 

[nonhog]

Aw Rick beat me too it.

 

[oilfield_mafia]

Great! Im already learning new stuff. Should I just use 1"x6" boards to make a 35' long 6" box? And then Pour the concrete and then mash the box in place? or figure some way to have the box in the dirt ditch and pour concrete around it?

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

You need a french drain, like the one at the bottom of this page. They make the box and grates to fit.

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...in+driveway&ndsp=20&hl=en&sa=N&start=140&um=1

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

Another.
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...in+driveway&ndsp=20&hl=en&sa=N&start=180&um=1

 

[TRTOOLSUPPLY]

Hi,
I-I is right about the french type drain.If you go to WATERWORKS or HD pipe supply they have reinforced plastic(very strong) troughs that slide together to form your drain channel at provides fall for the water to flow.Just dig your trench flat,lay in the sections of drain trough,fill in with dirt or better some concrete and your done!We built a Fairground in Danville,In using these,worked great.Just my OP.

Richard

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

Whats up group? New to this board, and to customizing my shop in general. I have a 30x50 shop and I have some runoff issues when it rains here.. The water seeps under the 18' door and of course gets in my shop.

I am ready to start on the inside finally, since I got some time off work now, but I need to make some way of diverting the water from going to my shop door.

There are no permits to worry about, or elec lines or anything. What I was thinking about l attempted to draw and have attached.. Is there any way for a new DIY'er to tackle this 35' long ditch?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

It would probably be easier for you to just buy pre-sloped channel drain, like ACO

http://www.acousa.com/drain/index.htm

a

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

You need a french drain, like the one at the bottom of this page. They make the box and grates to fit.

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...in+driveway&ndsp=20&hl=en&sa=N&start=140&um=1

I think you mean channel drain - sometimes called zipper drain, or culvert drain, etc -- a "french drain" (I think its a bastardized term for fringe drain) is a gravel filled-trough like this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_drain

 

[TRTOOLSUPPLY]

Rin tin tin is 100% right.The ACO drain is the brand we used,and worked great,the best thing is you don't have to grade your ditch!

Richard
TR TOOL SUPPLY

 

[tatra]

Iron-Iceberg, re fench drain..........been describing this in other posts and never knew the name.........thanks for the info...............

 

[kbs2244]

What about your gutter and downspout arangement?
Can you just extend the downspouts farther away from the building.
It would be easier.

 

[Torque1st]

If you don't need vehicle or pedestrian access across the ditch then just dig a ditch and line it with some sod.

 

[cyamaha2007]

You could get a pre cast drain to drop in. they are usually 10-15in wide and as long as you need with removeable galvinized grates.

 

[Stargeezer]

You could also bond a rubber threshold to the floor under the door to keep the water out. I did that on a 10 foot wide door and it worked well. Not sure what you are dealing with.

have dug ditches along side my metal building, put in perforated pipe draining to deep pit filled with gravel and backfilled the ditch with lava rock. I call it an American Drain

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

Well we started with concrete ditch, moved to french drain, and now on to channel drain.
I think channel drain is correct I just couldn't remember the name at the moment. But those are the way to go. And they work great.