12x16 Shed build

[Catadj78]

Prior to my wife and I getting married she had a mobile home on her fathers land. She has now sold the mobile home and now all the storage tubs that she had stored there had to come to the house.

Not much room in the house and we were planning on building "her" shed anyways but was hoping it could wait until my shop was completed.

My shop has to be put on hold now until her shed goes up. Shouldn't take but 1 day to frame and 1 day for the metal siding to match my shop I am hoping.

Looking for wall height recommendations.

12x16 with gable roof is the plan. 1 entry door and 1 window. I am framing on treated 2x6s with 1/2" floor and leveling the floor on concrete blocks. She is wanting the house type door on the 16' eave side. I was wanting to stay around 6' wall heights since the gable would be open.

Are we stuck putting a regular type house entry door on the gable end?

Any other recommendations for a shed build?

I need this up ASAP so I can carry on with my build

 

[MScott]

What about a patio door (not sliding.) That would give you the option of a 5' or 6' opening if you later decide to convert the shed to storing a mower etc. but can also be used as a regular door. I have one of these on my walkout basement and I was able to drive my ATV in for some maintenance before my garage was finished.
The only drawback might be that all the ones I have seen have glass in the doors so there might be a security issue.

 

[Beemer533]

In addition to the regular entry door, I would install a larger door as Mscott mentioned like a slider or roll up to make it easier to bringer larger items in and out.

I did a slider on mine, but roll up are a good option as well...

http://www.wayne-dalton.com/commercial/roll-up-sheet-doors/Pages/model-ds75.aspx

Not sure if Menards are in your area..
https://www.menards.com/main/mobile/p-2699913-c-12358.htm

Here is my slider:

 

[starquestMM]

I'll get in line on the recommendation of a 6' double door for future use. A lot of the light in a shed comes in the door, so the larger the brighter.

I would also recommend going taller on the walls. A lot of the prebuilt sheds available are designed for equipment like mowers and have short walls but thats not optimal for general storage. I look at it like this; the floor and roof are a fixed cost, why skimp on the walls when they essentially control how many shelving levels you will end up with.

I'm just finishing up a 12x14 and the walls are 9' in back and 16' in front.
View media item 47996

 

[rburke65]

Just my pinion, but i would think that a 6' wall would not beto my liking. I had a 10' by 14' shed built a few years back that 'came' with a 7' wall and by the time the framed in for the double hinge door I hit my head on the header, so I spent the $ on the additional 12" of studs for an 8' wall. Good luck. Keep her happy!

 

[Catadj78]

The reason for the 6' wall height is because where she wants the shed there is a 1' drop from one side to the other and it is close to the house. She does not want the eave heights taller than the house eaves. House is on slab. The shed will have to be 1' taller on the side close to the house.

We already have a 10x10 brick shed on a slab that is real close to the house. Maybe 5' from the corner of the house. She refuses to use it right now and I plan on tearing it down once my shop goes up. Its a nice shed but way too close to the house for my liking.

I already recommended the roll up door and she shot that idea down real fast.

I went to get the materials today at the local lumberyard and they did not have what I needed to start anyways.

I'd rather just use studs to frame up the walls at 8' because it would be faster not having to make so many cuts.

Looks like she will have to pick another spot for the shed and have 8' wall heights.

 

[gutted72]

Here's what I did on my shed

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[gs8212]

Mine was like a deck on posts and joists due to slope. Tongue and groove flooring - $ but worth it. Then threw up sticks built with enough height to walk underneath a shelf that runs across the shed between the outer walls. Shelf 4-ft deep so a mini attic to get stuff off floor. I made the doors wide enough to accommodate a fairly wide (52-in ?) riding mower. Can post pics and exact specs if interested.

 

[cabin fever]

I put a door on my gable end of my 7x14

sorry don't have any finished pics.

I used 7' studs, 16" on center, 5/8" plywood on the sides, and floor. Floor joists are 4x4 (treated) 2' on center resting on leveled concrete foundation blocks. Metal roof, vinyl siding, and fake rock around the bottom 2'. Most of the stuff I used for the shed I got for free.

 

[Kaizen]

I built mine with 5/8 flooring so heavy things don't deflect. I stack tons of pellets and it has held up fine.
I just made my own door out of plywood and some 1x material. I put the man door under the eaves and its 3 feet wide. I have one on the end for the 42 inch tractor. basic and cheap. windows are nice but sounds like you'll need the wall space for storage. also recommend putting in a loft so you can fill it to the rafters.

 

[Catadj78]

Went to the local lumber yard to get the materials the other day. Didn't have enough to start. I plan on 2x6 treated floors on 16" centers. Wall studs on 2' centers with 1x4 flush cut into the 2x4 wall studs since I am going metal. I decided to move the shed to another location in the yard that is more level and away from the house a bit so it doesn't look taller than the house.

We live in a small town and the home depot it 1 hr drive away. I have to get my shop to the point in ordering my top metal length. When I get to that point in a day or so I'll hook to the trailer to get her shed material and the rest of my shop material to save a trip and lost labor time.

I am doing both projects by myself primarily so it takes a lil longer to get things done. I am off work for another month or so. So I try to save as much as I can without hiring out help. The helpthat volunteered before I started mg shop has been mia.

 

[Backlight]

In addition to the regular entry door, I would install a larger door as Mscott mentioned like a slider or roll up to make it easier to bringer larger items in and out.

I did a slider on mine, but roll up are a good option as well...

http://www.wayne-dalton.com/commercial/roll-up-sheet-doors/Pages/model-ds75.aspx

Not sure if Menards are in your area..
https://www.menards.com/main/mobile/p-2699913-c-12358.htm

Here is my slider:
[/URL]

That is a very nice shed! What H/W did you use for the sliding door? I think I see a bottom track as well? Does it seal well (I'm a bit worried about mice on my build). Also interested in the roof pitch if you don't mind letting me know!

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Wow, great looking buildings you guys have built. We are moving so my 8'x12' ft. outbuilding is being left with our homes new owner. I paid $1350.00 for it 7 years ago, the shed dealer built it on the spot in my yard in just one day, I painted it the next day... Sadly this same shed company is out of business now though.

I have been looking for pre-built sheds this week for the home we will be moving to on Feb 27. $2585.00 for a 8 'x12" wood unit with no windows and two 30 inch wood doors and I have to furnish foundation and paint.

Are you guys able to build these nice sheds shown here, for considerably less than $26.00 a sq, ft. ? I am thinking of building my own when we move but due to my health, just not pining to do so.. Thanks

 

[flingwing1969]

Mine was like a deck on posts and joists due to slope. Tongue and groove flooring - $ but worth it. Then threw up sticks built with enough height to walk underneath a shelf that runs across the shed between the outer walls. Shelf 4-ft deep so a mini attic to get stuff off floor. I made the doors wide enough to accommodate a fairly wide (52-in ?) riding mower. Can post pics and exact specs if interested.

Great looking shed and yes I'm definitely interested in specs. I'm gathering ideas for a mini-shop village of 6 - 10x12 two rows of three each mono-pitch roofed sheds (to avoid the PITA building permit process in CA). I'm planning an 8' eave on the front of each extending to almost touch in the middle, thus creating a 16' covered driveway down the middle. They would also have similar 4' eaves on the sides, almost touching, creating 4 areas of 8x10 covered storage between the sheds. Two sheds will be for woodworking, one for finishing, one for welding, one for auto repair etc, and one for other odds and ends. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Catadj78]

Wow, great looking buildings you guys have built. We are moving so my 8'x12' ft. outbuilding is being left with our homes new owner. I paid $1350.00 for it 7 years ago, the shed dealer built it on the spot in my yard in just one day, I painted it the next day... Sadly this same shed company is out of business now though.

I have been looking for pre-built sheds this week for the home we will be moving to on Feb 27. $2585.00 for a 8 'x12" wood unit with no windows and two 30 inch wood doors and I have to furnish foundation and paint.

Are you guys able to build these nice sheds shown here, for considerably less than $26.00 a sq, ft. ? I am thinking of building my own when we move but due to my health, just not pining to do so.. Thanks

I am hoping to stay around $1200 with the shed build. I priced everything using HD prices with the exception of the metal roof and sides.

The hardest part of the build that I see is cutting the rafters. Around here the sheds of this size are 3k or more

 

[dfiler2]

Look up "Laying out rafters using a framing square", you'll have no problem.

 

[Catadj78]

I am confident I can do it but I never had to. I youtube or google just about everything I plan on doing when I am not familiar with it

 

[Beemer533]

That is a very nice shed! What H/W did you use for the sliding door? I think I see a bottom track as well? Does it seal well (I'm a bit worried about mice on my build). Also interested in the roof pitch if you don't mind letting me know!

Thanks! It was a fun build..

I got the door sliding hardware from Tractor Supply, but I can't find the parts on their website..

These are the manufacturer links;

Door hangers

Rail

Good eye regarding the track.. Originally I used a length of aluminum uni strut; I bolted it to the bottom of the door with the open part of the channel facing the shed.

Then I bolted a trolley to the rim joist to guide the door... It worked really well until my ramp swelled a bit and made the door a pain to move...
Eventually I removed it and replaced it with a guide roller.

I can't find a picture of the Uni strut setup, but this is what I have now


The door seals quite well, but I am quite certain a determined mouse to get in! So far though I haven't had any issues..

The roof is a 5/12 pitch.

Feel free to PM me for more details.. I also have the Sketchup files I designed it with..

 

[Beemer533]

Wow, great looking buildings you guys have built. We are moving so my 8'x12' ft. outbuilding is being left with our homes new owner. I paid $1350.00 for it 7 years ago, the shed dealer built it on the spot in my yard in just one day, I painted it the next day... Sadly this same shed company is out of business now though.

I have been looking for pre-built sheds this week for the home we will be moving to on Feb 27. $2585.00 for a 8 'x12" wood unit with no windows and two 30 inch wood doors and I have to furnish foundation and paint.

Are you guys able to build these nice sheds shown here, for considerably less than $26.00 a sq, ft. ? I am thinking of building my own when we move but due to my health, just not pining to do so.. Thanks

When I went to look at prefab sheds, I was appalled at the **** everyone had for $2-3k..

I figured I could do better, but I over built and ended up spending around $2600 (not including tools I had to buy). That put my shed (12x12) at about $19 per sq/ft. But it is basically built like a house!

 

[Beemer533]

I am confident I can do it but I never had to. I youtube or google just about everything I plan on doing when I am not familiar with it

I designed my entire shed down to the stud before I ever spent a dime. It really helped me figure out what I wanted. It was also completely to scale and accurate enough to make cuts from.

If you want to play around with it let me know, I can send you the file. ..

 

[Catadj78]

I designed my entire shed down to the stud before I ever spent a dime. It really helped me figure out what I wanted. It was also completely to scale and accurate enough to make cuts from.

If you want to play around with it let me know, I can send you the file. ..

Yeah, sounds interesting. Thanks a lot. Do you need an email or can you send it PM?

Thanks a lot. I plan on picking up my material list Friday or Saturday when I go pick up the rest of my materials for my shop.

 

[Beemer533]

I can see if I can PM it, the file isn't that large.. Otherwise I can just get you a link to my Google Drive folder to download.

 

[gs8212]

When I went to look at prefab sheds, I was appalled at the **** everyone had for $2-3k..

I figured I could do better, but I over built and ended up spending around $2600 (not including tools I had to buy[emoji14]). That put my shed (12x12) at about $19 per sq/ft. But it is basically built like a house!

Ditto from me. Complete **** on the prefab. Build them to last or you regret it in about 18 months.

 

[Backlight]

Thanks! It was a fun build..

I got the door sliding hardware from Tractor Supply, but I can't find the parts on their website..

These are the manufacturer links;

Door hangers

Rail

Good eye regarding the track.. Originally I used a length of aluminum uni strut; I bolted it to the bottom of the door with the open part of the channel facing the shed.

Then I bolted a trolley to the rim joist to guide the door... It worked really well until my ramp swelled a bit and made the door a pain to move...
Eventually I removed it and replaced it with a guide roller.

I can't find a picture of the Uni strut setup, but this is what I have now

The door seals quite well, but I am quite certain a determined mouse to get in! So far though I haven't had any issues..

The roof is a 5/12 pitch.

Feel free to PM me for more details.. I also have the Sketchup files I designed it with..

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'll use those for the barn door I have planned.

 

[Catadj78]

Back from the HD trip today to pick up the materials.

Anyone see anything wrong with the plans I have?

Zero ground prep. The area under the shed will be sprayed occasionally with roundup
Cinder blocks leveled about 4' apart
2x6 pressure treated floor framing on 16" centers
1/2" OSB floor
2x4 stud walls on 2' centers 8' tall.
1x4 girts 2' apart
2x4 rafters with 1x4 purlins

I am using metal for the exterior with wainscoting trim to match my new shop being built about 50' away.

With the shed being elevated with cinder blocks I am assuming there is no need for any type of vapor barrier right?

I tossed the idea around about insulating it with bubble wrap beforehand but decided against it since I will have my 40x40 not to far away.

Am I missing anything? Suggestions? Thoughts? What to think about? etc

I plan on starting on it in the morning

Thanks

 

[Beemer533]

I don't see any real issues, but I would suggest covering the area first with a landscape fabric or weed barrier and then some heavy black plastic. I did this under mine before I placed the base stone and I have yet to have a single weed pop up.

I used runner crush as a base over the plastic so that protects it; you may want to consider some stone after fact if you do put down plastic to prevent deterioration or movement of the plastic/landscape fabric or weed barrier.

I would really reconsider using 1/2" OSB as the floor.. It is more money but I think you will have much better results with at least 1/2" plywood. I think 1/2 OSB will be not only weak and bouncy, but OSB in general with soak anything up like oil, water, etc and start swelling.

Even if you paint it, I still think it won't last that long depending on your use of the shed.

If you aren't heating/cooling it there is no reason to use vapor barrier..

 

[SeniorCitizen]

I'd compare the cost of an elevated wood floor to a concrete slab, especially if elevation is a concern.

Rafter lay out is a snap when the " step off " method is used. Also rafter fit can be checked more accurately while standing on the floor rather than up on a ladder. If interested how that's accomplished let me know.

 

[Catadj78]

I'd compare the cost of an elevated wood floor to a concrete slab, especially if elevation is a concern.

Rafter lay out is a snap when the " step off " method is used. Also rafter fit can be checked more accurately while standing on the floor rather than up on a ladder. If interested how that's accomplished let me know.

The site that we have agreed on is relatively flat, I already have the lumber for the floor and we may want to move it at a later time.

step off method?

 

[SeniorCitizen]

google step off rafter layout. To check rafter pattern fit, clamp a 2x4 block between two studs about waist high by clamping the studs and squeezing the block ends or tacking through the studs with 8d. Go to the opposite wall and do the same making certain the blocks are close to the same elevation. These two blocks are to be used the same as the two top plates to check rafter pattern fit but at a convenient elevation.

 

[Catadj78]

I finally finished the shed with the exception of some more shelves. The weather has not been cooperating with my work schedule.






I am adding another downspout. I have some parts to pick up tomorrow and some OSB for shelves.

 

[captain14]

The shelves fill up fast. Fourth photo from the top shows a good design feature.
You can always sleep In the shed (penalty box) if needed.

 

[Beemer533]

Very nice, looks good! I like the metal as well. It looks like the siding is metal as well as the roof?

Gutters are something I need to do with my shed..

This post edited by the NSA

 

[Catadj78]

Yeah, exterior is all metal with the exception of the vinyl soffit.

I have right at 1800 in the whole project. Took me way longer than it should. Was unable to work more than 4 or 5 hours on any day I was able to work. I did everything by myself, couldnt get the damn dog to help.

I should habe went with plywood instead of the osb like suggested before. It rained several days before the roof went on. I did cover with a tarp before the rain but still got a little wet. The floor is very solid still though.

my shop that is maybe 50' from the shed will look exactly like this except 18" instead of 12" overhangs. 10'ceilimgs vs the 8' in the shed and 40x40 rather than 12x16. Same entry door and very similar windows.m

 

[Catadj78]

Finished the shelves tonight, every 2' on tbe gable ends and 6' on the other,