Start to Finish Home Body and Paint Thread.

[jbdaya]

do not believe the people who say that take absolutely a 40 000$ paint booth to do a beautiful job.... and good job !!

 

[Kevin54]

For ones that doesn't know or think that they can get by without the proper PPE and not get isocyanate poisoning, I have a young cousin who worked in a bodyshop as a painter but also worked at home on the side. His painting days are over. As soon as he gets around fresh paint, he will break out in an ungodly rash that itches, red blotches all over, and starts having a hard time breathing. He's been in the hospital a few times because of it.

My dad was the same way. I ended up having to paint everything because if he got close to fresh paint, he would get super sick and had a hell of a time breathing. A few packs of smokes a day didn't help though either. One time we weren't quite sure he was going to make it as he was shooting Imron without the proper PPE. Imron is terrible. And like they said above......it's not just breathing it in, but it is absorbing it in through the pores of your skin and getting it into your blood system. I don't take chances anymore. Even if using a rattle can or two, I will wear a respirator.

A few years back I was cutting some MDF, and when done (it was early summer) I swept the floor and blew the garage out with a leaf blower. I ended up with a cough. I went through almost 6 months of test after test after test. X-Rays, PET Test, CT Scans, and was told I was going to lose a third of my lung because of a large cancerous tumor and a possible rib or two. This was from not wearing a respirator. I used 6 weeks vacation off and on and had to go on FMLA periodically for doctors visits. Luckily it was a lung infection or basically pneumonia from the MDF dust. So that is bad, but paint vapors stick. Without a respirator it will stick to your nose hairs, a lot gets past the hairs, and if you have a short sleeve shirt or shorts, the paint chemicals are being absorbed through the pores of your exposed bare parts.

Don't take a chance. Hell years back, I used to shoot without a respirator because the respirator seemed like a hindrance. There is no way to prove it, but that may be why I'm ate up with arthritis and have the problems I do today. So any more, I wear a respirator, safety glasses, and I have a box or two of rubber gloves around just so I don't absorb chemicals in through my hands, get something in my eyes, or breathe something in that is hazardous. I'm getting too old to take those risk any more.

 

[Silver6.0]

last months project. I'm just a diesel mechanic with a tiny bit of paint experience but ive found the shooting paint is far easier than the prep! Heres before.


stripping decal and body filling dents/rust



primer coats



base clear silver metallic ford z7 like my dd







now working on the wet sanding

 

[shephd]

For ones that doesn't know or think that they can get by without the proper PPE and not get isocyanate poisoning, I have a young cousin who worked in a bodyshop as a painter but also worked at home on the side. His painting days are over. As soon as he gets around fresh paint, he will break out in an ungodly rash that itches, red blotches all over, and starts having a hard time breathing. He's been in the hospital a few times because of it.

My dad was the same way. I ended up having to paint everything because if he got close to fresh paint, he would get super sick and had a hell of a time breathing. A few packs of smokes a day didn't help though either. One time we weren't quite sure he was going to make it as he was shooting Imron without the proper PPE. Imron is terrible. And like they said above......it's not just breathing it in, but it is absorbing it in through the pores of your skin and getting it into your blood system. I don't take chances anymore. Even if using a rattle can or two, I will wear a respirator.

A few years back I was cutting some MDF, and when done (it was early summer) I swept the floor and blew the garage out with a leaf blower. I ended up with a cough. I went through almost 6 months of test after test after test. X-Rays, PET Test, CT Scans, and was told I was going to lose a third of my lung because of a large cancerous tumor and a possible rib or two. This was from not wearing a respirator. I used 6 weeks vacation off and on and had to go on FMLA periodically for doctors visits. Luckily it was a lung infection or basically pneumonia from the MDF dust. So that is bad, but paint vapors stick. Without a respirator it will stick to your nose hairs, a lot gets past the hairs, and if you have a short sleeve shirt or shorts, the paint chemicals are being absorbed through the pores of your exposed bare parts.

Don't take a chance. Hell years back, I used to shoot without a respirator because the respirator seemed like a hindrance. There is no way to prove it, but that may be why I'm ate up with arthritis and have the problems I do today. So any more, I wear a respirator, safety glasses, and I have a box or two of rubber gloves around just so I don't absorb chemicals in through my hands, get something in my eyes, or breathe something in that is hazardous. I'm getting too old to take those risk any more.

+1
Sorry you have those problems, but thank you for sharing them to try to get others to pay attention. I used to spray and chemicals would get on my hands. I have sores from time to time in my nose, and my hands are a mess with eczema, blisters, dry skin. I take meds to breathe everyday. Glad it isn't worse but how much better could it have been without the exposure
You just don't know what is going to bite you, or when. And the longer it takes to bite the worse it is, imo. Make safety the first priority of the job.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Im not a painter,but Im kind of handy with metal.
Kids 29 sport coupe :hand made visor/top chopped 3"/filled roof,lower rear quarter panel patches made from scrap shelves using home made bead roller to match origionals.

 

[Ajustable]

This is a great thread guy's Thanks for sharing.

 

[Colin HD]

1976 Chevy "El Babosa" Lowrider

 

[don long]

Even though I owned a bodyshop for years. I've always had a project in my garage at home to work on.

My first and only completed job is this 1969 mustang that I took down to the skeleton and rebuilt it.

The start

After sand blasting and priming

swapping trannys from a 3 speed to a 5 speed

Painting the Jambs and underside

 

[don long]

After painting

the finished project 10 years later

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

As much as Im a sucker for old mustangs,Im an even bigger sucker for old vettes.
So whats the details on the red one parked next to it?Looks like a 62 from what I can see of it.

 

[wasfast]

Doing all the prep, wet sanding, blocking etc can easily be done at home if you have basic knowledge. The challenge is not having a spray booth to keep the top coat free of "stuff". Yes, you can wet sand it out but nothing beats having bugs and nurbs not there in the first place.

Some very nice paint jobs here. Good craftsmanship.

 

[wasfast]

Doing all the prep, wet sanding, blocking etc can easily be done at home if you have basic knowledge. The challenge is not having a spray booth to keep the top coat free of "stuff". Yes, you can wet sand it out but nothing beats having bugs and nurbs not there in the first place.

Some very nice paint jobs here. Good craftsmanship.

 

[don long]

As much as Im a sucker for old mustangs,Im an even bigger sucker for old vettes.
So whats the details on the red one parked next to it?Looks like a 62 from what I can see of it.

zmaxmotorsports

That is a 62 vette in the back ground and is in my current garage on my rotisserie getting a retromod rebuild.
It was a running car in the 90's but an engine failure caused the car to be pulled into the old garage and get torn down and the frame revamped to hold the c4 independent suspension and received an LT1 transplant along with the 6 speed trans.
You can find the build thread in my signature

Don

 

[don long]

I also have a 70 elcamino in process that started in the old garage and has been carried over to the new garage.
It has undergone extensive modification as well

It started out being my daily driver

It came into the garage after the motor studdard and left me sitting on the freeway
The motor came out and the body was separated from the frame and after smoothing the frame it was sent out for powdercoating

The body was sent out for sandblasting and upon return it was decided that the truck needed both bed sides so back on the frame for the metal work
then back on the rotisserie for the custom mods

The motor was freshened up with aluminum heads a little more cam and fuel injection

The car sat after that much work until I moved into my new garage
where the custom mods have been done

1. a 59 chev dash was grafted in

2. a third brake lite was built from a 58 impala roof grille

3. all bed rails have been removed and the bed rails smoothed

4. tail lite pockets were welded up and 62 pick up lites installed

5. the tailgate back up lites removed and the gate smoothed

6. drip rails removed and the roof smoothed

7. the door handles have been removed

8. the firewall holes welded up and the panel smoothed.

9. the hood hinges have been replaced by electric actuators pushing rods through the cowl panel to push open the hood

10. the windshield brought forward to sit smooth with the hinge pillars and eliminate the w/s moldings

 

[don long]

dash panel

3rd brake lite

molded bed rails

drip rails and door handles

tial lamps

firewall

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Those torque thrusts are the best looking aftermarket wheel ever!

 

[MP&C]

A 70 MGB, one of the first projects in the shop.. long before much of the equipment you see in there today. Sorry for all the different sized pictures, early in my attempts at using a camera..

Some bubbling at the bottom of the driver's quarter is worthy of investigation...

Looks like someone's spent time at the beach!

Note all the sand on the floor...

Inner fender on drivers' front. Funny the cut mark at the left was already there. Looks like someone was attempting a repair and changed their mind..

Fitted and welded in place

Both front rockers needed repairs....

Fabricated the repair panels..

Notice how bare the shop is. We all start somewhere.

White sealer and Viper Red

Yes, this is the owner. With the top down, the seats sit up higher and he looks over the windshield. Top up, seats recline a bit more so he can fit under the soft top

 

[KCarGuy]

A friend rented out a Paint Booth at a Local Body shop for Me to Paint his Mustang after we did all the bodywork and had it Prepped for Paint.

Truth be told...The paint would have came out the same by doing it in my Garage.
(I have done at least a Dozen in my current garage)

As long as you have good "Filtered" air curculation...
And Good "High'" and "Lower" lighting...
Plenty of Room to Place parts and move around...

And....as mentioned before...Protection for you and your Lungs...
(Dont go cheap on paint supplies or personal Protection)

And...you can never take enough time to prep and clean...

 

[don long]

Robert
You do some very nice work Fabbing those panels. And your painting too
I've learned lots from your posts.

Thanks

Don

 

[fred d]

Okay after looking through this entire thread I have some questions.
Why is it some people paint the fenders and doors hood off of the vehicle and then attach them after?

Other people paint the vehicle as a complete unit?
What is the advantage one over the other, or is it just a personal preference?

Seems to me that there is a likelyhood of damaging on re-assembly.
Also by painting off the vehicle, and at different times there might be a mismatch of color.

 

[arrowhead]

Okay after looking through this entire thread I have some questions.
Why is it some people paint the fenders and doors hood off of the vehicle and then attach them after?

Other people paint the vehicle as a complete unit?
What is the advantage one over the other, or is it just a personal preference?

Seems to me that there is a likelyhood of damaging on re-assembly.
Also by painting off the vehicle, and at different times there might be a mismatch of color.

For me, it depends on the color makeup and if it is metallic, but everyone has their own personal preference. The amount of space you have and timing of when things are getting done can play a part also. I like to paint everything apart when I can. Then there re no tape lines to deal with and less time for masking.

 

[MP&C]

In spraying metallics, gravity plays a part in how the mica particles "lay" when sprayed. So if you spray a car with doors installed but fender laying flat, you have a better chance than not that it will show once assembled. If the loose parts are held in the same position as on the car, it will be less of an issue, but all of the other factors, such as paint gun setup, fan overlap, etc. will need to be duplicated. Just as in what I've said elsewhere in panel fitment and welding processes, you need to develop an almost OCD repeatability in your processes. So for metallics, spraying the car together will give the best match, but perhaps subpar results in finishing door jams, etc, and is why many spray things apart, as explained in the post above^^^^. For a solid color like the Viper Red I showed above, they are much more forgiving. The car body was sprayed about a month or so after the loose parts, with no visible difference. But as red is a semi-translucent color, you'll have to insure the sealer is all the same color (no sand throughs) as any differences there will indeed be seen in the finish coat.

 

[arrowhead]

This is a great thread and it's awesome to see the talents of "non professionals".

Looking back, I've done quite a few and try to improve on everyone. I have a full time desk job so my car hobby is only part time.

First real project was a '73 Blazer back in '84 when I was 19. New body panels from the factory. Did all the work outside and painted in my neighbors garage. It turned out OK, but didn't have any gloss. Who knew I'd be ahead of the curve with a a satin finish?

Then life got in the way for the next 20 years (but at least now I had my own garage) then built a T bucket. Learned alot with this project about body work and painting. Didn't have much money so I kept it simple with no chrome but spruced it up with flames. Really enjoyed doing the flames. Color is Mustang Screaming Yellow

Then I did a '70 mustang coupe that was total rust bucket (but I knew that when I bought it). Had to rebuild everything on this car, engine, trans, floors were gone, trunk, fenders , door skins, heavy surface rust on roof and hood, etc. Color is Ford Performance Red

Then I did a '55 TBird for a friend. This car was very bad, need floors, rockers, every panels had major rust or damage, door jambs rebuilt, etc. Color is Thunderbird Blue

Then I built my Factory Five hot rod:
Color is PPG Vibrance Sterling Silver

Painted my son's WRX Color is stock silver

Then did a Factory Five Cobra for a local car builder. Color is Corvette Atomic Orange with clear pearl stripes.

Then a '65 Chevelle SS for another local car guy. color is Ford Sterling Grey Metallic

Now I'm in the middle of a '69 Cutlass convertible for another friend - hopefully I'll be painting in another month or two. Color is ?????

 

[arrowhead]

In spraying metallics, gravity plays a part in how the mica particles "lay" when sprayed. So if you spray a car with doors installed but fender laying flat, you have a better chance than not that it will show once assembled. If the loose parts are held in the same position as on the car, it will be less of an issue, but all of the other factors, such as paint gun setup, fan overlap, etc. will need to be duplicated. Just as in what I've said elsewhere in panel fitment and welding processes, you need to develop an almost OCD repeatability in your processes. So for metallics, spraying the car together will give the best match, but perhaps subpar results in finishing door jams, etc, and is why many spray things apart, as explained in the post above^^^^. For a solid color like the Viper Red I showed above, they are much more forgiving. The car body was sprayed about a month or so after the loose parts, with no visible difference. But as red is a semi-translucent color, you'll have to insure the sealer is all the same color (no sand throughs) as any differences there will indeed be seen in the finish coat.

Agreed and thanks for typing it all out. With that Chevelle, it had a really heavy metallic so I painted it in pieces but with a twist. I painted the panels and shell separate in the morning with three coats of base. Then let everything sit so the paint had plenty of flash time. Then hung the panels on the car in the afternoon and sprayed one "blend" coat so it evened out the color form panel to panel while it was still within the recoat window. The next morning, blew apart the car and cleared everything separately. It was a little extra work and yes, kind of nerve racking worrying about a chip, BUT, no tape lines, no masking and no worries about mismatched panels.

 

[Crazy_Pilot]

This is a great thread and it's awesome to see the talents of "non professionals".

Looking back, I've done quite a few and try to improve on everyone. I have a full time desk job so my car hobby is only part time.

First real project was a '73 Blazer back in '84 when I was 19. New body panels from the factory. Did all the work outside and painted in my neighbors garage. It turned out OK, but didn't have any gloss. Who knew I'd be ahead of the curve with a a satin finish?

Do you have any tips for painting in a garage that isn't equipped as a paint booth?

 

[KCarGuy]

Beautiful Jobs....Keep them coming!

When I am Painting in my Garage, I clean everything and blow out the garage.
Wash the floor and Hang Plastic everywhere.
The Car is parked sideways.
I have a Exhaust fan (not just a Box Fan), a 3 speed Squirrel Cage Fan mounted to my (Left) side window, with a Furnace Filter.
Then on the (Right) side window, I have another furnace filter mounted.
(I want alot of good, Clean, Air flow, without making a mess and getting any neighbors upset.)
I also have good lighting above, eye level on the sides, as well as low along the sides, all around the car.
and lots of room, so that you can get around without getting hoses caught up on anything.
Last, I use a HVLP setup.
(it sure makes alot less mess than the old way of spraying.)

So...Clean, Protect, Clean Air, Vent, Room and Lighting.

At that Point, there is really no reason that you cannot have the same results as the High Dollar Pro's Do.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

This is a great thread and it's awesome to see the talents of "non professionals".

Looking back, I've done quite a few and try to improve on everyone. I have a full time desk job so my car hobby is only part time.

First real project was a '73 Blazer back in '84 when I was 19. New body panels from the factory. Did all the work outside and painted in my neighbors garage. It turned out OK, but didn't have any gloss. Who knew I'd be ahead of the curve with a a satin finish?

Then life got in the way for the next 20 years (but at least now I had my own garage) then built a T bucket. Learned alot with this project about body work and painting. Didn't have much money so I kept it simple with no chrome but spruced it up with flames. Really enjoyed doing the flames. Color is Mustang Screaming Yellow

Then I did a '70 mustang coupe that was total rust bucket (but I knew that when I bought it). Had to rebuild everything on this car, engine, trans, floors were gone, trunk, fenders , door skins, heavy surface rust on roof and hood, etc. Color is Ford Performance Red

Then I did a '55 TBird for a friend. This car was very bad, need floors, rockers, every panels had major rust or damage, door jambs rebuilt, etc. Color is Thunderbird Blue

Then I built my Factory Five hot rod:
Color is PPG Vibrance Sterling Silver

Painted my son's WRX Color is stock silver

Then did a Factory Five Cobra for a local car builder. Color is Corvette Atomic Orange with clear pearl stripes.

Then a '65 Chevelle SS for another local car guy. color is Ford Sterling Grey Metallic

Now I'm in the middle of a '69 Cutlass convertible for another friend - hopefully I'll be painting in another month or two. Color is ?????

 

[Duke55]

Todd, sharp looking car. Did you spray all of the KBC at once? I'm looking at using the KBC Organic Green on the 55 wagon and just don't see all the parts fitting in the booth at once.... wondering how forgiving it is for separate sprays...

Robert,

I sprayed my truck in several pieces over several days. Also repainted a few parts weeks later. What I have found is that the kbc is very forgiving. The driving factor seems to be the basecoat. I have zero fears of matching over the black base and lots a fear matching over the silver base. With that said everything I have repainted has matched extremely well. I would recommend shooting the kbc over a solid base (similar color base would make it even easier). I have seen Brandywine KBC over a solid bright red base that looked good and the color came out between the two colors on my truck.