The VISES of Garage Journal
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Fretters
Well-known member
Chris, take a photo of the inside of the body/rear jaw too, where that nut assembly sits.
Fretters
Well-known member
barry2wood
Active member
Linking the image:
Sure looks like it. Is it a quality tool? Worth the time if I can find the rest?
Here's where it sits inside the body. I can't tell if that screw in the bottom is just to hold the swivel plate on, or if it's supposed to go through and hold that nut assembly some how?
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joe.striper
Well-known member
Barry, this type of Chinese vise is always worth it IF it is almost free. Great to experiment on and if you do a good restoration you will find a buyer, if you keep it cheap.
The guys here will attest that I did exactly the same thing with the attached Luddell, but once I started with a real Wilton the differences were obvious and distinct.
But be careful you dont catch the vise vice bug. very, very bad...
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Fretters
Well-known member
Fretters
Well-known member
There's no such thing as a bad vice, IMHO. It's simply that different vices have different limits. Abuse anything past its limit and it will fail. I'd class that as worth digging out if you can.
I meant to take a photo of that section now that the slide and nut are out of there.
Ah, my bad! Here ya go!
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Fretters
Well-known member
Unless there's a lug which the bolt threaded into which has broken off the rear of that nut housing, where it slopes at the bottom rear, then offhand I can't say how that might have been secured originally.
Thanks for the help! Yeah, I'm not sure either. Even though I don't know much about vises, the mechanisms seem basic and I'm not sure how that locking nut would stay stationary.
454ragtop
Well-known member
I suspect that is some sort of quick set nut. My Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw uses a nut very similar to that. It's drilled offset so one way it wedges the nut into the good threads, the other way allows the nut to fall to the smooth side so the jaw can be slid in or out without turning the handle.
HTH, Jim
joe.striper
Well-known member
OK, here is my take. With the spindle out take the spindle nut and slide it all the way forward. The the bolt should come up behind it and keep it from sliding back.
In your photo of the static jaw I see what looks like a wing on the right side inside the dynamic jaw. These should exist on both sides which would hold the slide from popping up. The bolt would keep the spindle nut from sliding back, this would keep the nut secure. Sometimes on this design the little wings break off or wear out on the static jaw, or the spindle nut wears out on the sides. All this wear occurs over time and sometimes it is exacerbated because the spindle nut is loose and all that movement accelerates the wear.
If it is unrepairable consider drilling the bottom of the spindle nut and then tapping it the same diameter and TPI as the bolt that is coming in. Then thread them together from the bottom up. Voila a repaired vise
KMScott
Well-known member
Barry, here is a set of jaws from a TaskMaster vise, notice how they use the Powdered Metal. The reason Asia does this is because it is a fast way to make a serrated set of jaws but this type of material is like clamping with a piece of glass. Maybe they will figure out this technology in the future. If I had that vise I would remove the jaws and surface ground the jaws flat on the back side and then grind the serration side parallel. This at least will maybe save the jaws if clamping a irregular part like we all do. Notice where powdered jaws break, at the screw locations.
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This might actually be why the nut mechanism was only threaded on one side and not the other, interesting...
Still doesn't really solve my problem, but I at least i know that's probably not it.
joe.striper
Well-known member
454ragtop
Well-known member
Chris, looking at the pics some more, I'm now certain that is a quick set nut assembly. The part with the 2 ears that the main screw passes thru should have a threaded hole where it can be bolted to the main body. Should be a little plunger in that hole behind the spring clip in the floating nut. Note that it will only work with the floating nut installed the correct way, might look like it can be installed with either end facing the handle, but that's not the case. Let me see if I can find a diagram.
Jim
OK, see page 3 here http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/492/3874.pdf
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Toz: impressive vise and table. what are the details of a Prentiss Bulldog #54? size of jaws and weight if you know it? also do tell how you got the slide and that awesome steel table so shiny?
Joe: some pipe chain vises are pretty cool especially if they have the cool old school handle to tighten the chain. they don't sell for much, but we all should have one to mount on the end of a bench or even the deck off your house. that's a nice chain blacksmith vise you know own and looks good as your Avitar.
Joe: some pipe chain vises are pretty cool especially if they have the cool old school handle to tighten the chain. they don't sell for much, but we all should have one to mount on the end of a bench or even the deck off your house. that's a nice chain blacksmith vise you know own and looks good as your Avitar.
firemanast
Well-known member
Very nice job and vise !The new Paint Job
barry2wood
Active member
joe.striper I think I already caught the vice.
Fretters I think that this one might have been pushed ppast the limit. Cause I haven't found the other half and it was sitting next to that swordfish that didn't have the dynamic
KMScott I suppose if I can find the other half then I would fix the jaws. The jaw brake looks like the irwin that busted. Probably made in the same place. I posted my spindle pic on the fix it thread, whatcha think.
Fretters I think that this one might have been pushed ppast the limit. Cause I haven't found the other half and it was sitting next to that swordfish that didn't have the dynamic
KMScott I suppose if I can find the other half then I would fix the jaws. The jaw brake looks like the irwin that busted. Probably made in the same place. I posted my spindle pic on the fix it thread, whatcha think.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Joe, 30 seems high to me for one that is missing most, if not all of the chain...
Absurdly high, you can get them for less, like new shipped to your door off ebay. Chain vises, while handy have little value in the used market, especially those style. Without a full length chain I wouldn't even fool with it.
Be careful with those, my weld shop gave me a phenomenal deal on a box of those one time. Now I see why. The strip everything off, including the metal. If you have a decent powered grinder and lean into them, they will and do remove material at a quick rate. They also love grabbing and rounding off edges. Use with caution on anything you care about. I've used them (carefully) to smooth out anvil portions and rough castings, but nothing machined. They also like to leave chunks of blue abrasive **** all over.
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joe.striper
Well-known member
Thanks I'll pass then. I should have done my research before coming on here
Thanks for all your input.
Kiwi Kev
Well-known member
Fretters.....I don't know where that little vise is made, it doesn't say Germany anywhere on it. It does have an R..O on it. R is above the O with 2 dots between. I have had it for over 40 years. I used to use it while building model cars in my younger years when I live in New Zealand.
driveitfar....I put some pics on your vise stand thread.
mike paxton....With the lever forward you can grab the front jaw and pull or push it freely. When you push the lever back it rises engaging something in the thread and then you can use the handle to tighten it.
va grousman.....thanks for the links, looks like they were available with or without the quick release mechanism. I also found a pic of a matching mini anvil. I may try to track one down just for fun, doesn't look suitable for anything more than a paper weight but would look cool next to my vise.
driveitfar....I put some pics on your vise stand thread.
mike paxton....With the lever forward you can grab the front jaw and pull or push it freely. When you push the lever back it rises engaging something in the thread and then you can use the handle to tighten it.
va grousman.....thanks for the links, looks like they were available with or without the quick release mechanism. I also found a pic of a matching mini anvil. I may try to track one down just for fun, doesn't look suitable for anything more than a paper weight but would look cool next to my vise.
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barry2wood
Active member
I personally think that is kinda high for what it is (size/features/brand). It does look pretty nice under the dirt, but hard to tell without seeing it in person.
barry2wood
Active member
Is the back of the base busted or is it angled. Did this come with a swivel. If everything else is good I'll bring him down if busted and no swivel. Did they stamp numbers on top of slide?
Why no 594 here http://scuttle.dayid.org/wiki/index.php/Rock_Island_Vise
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va.grouseman
Well-known member
Barry2,---Dayid's list is not an exhaustive list.---He edited and added units as he received the info up to a point and then he just stopped editing for one reason or another.---But it is an awesome piece of work you have to admit.---But it doesn't have every model of every brand made.
barry2wood
Active member
Yes it is very impressive. I found it searching about the 504 columbian. Like a dummy I didn't bookmark it. Then tonight I spent a little bit trying to remember/recall where it was. Very nice of him cause a lot of people are not willing to share their time and wisdom for free.
Fretters
Well-known member
I can remember having mine from being a nipper too. One of those things my dad had in his shed and I appropriated it from there. Seems quite an unusual alloy they used to make them too, doesn't it. Doesn't appear to be aluminium, but something along those lines.
Had a look what's written on this one earlier, and it's Pebaro, Germany.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Barry: That Rock Island is not a swivel version. that isn't a broken piece that you pointed out as far as i can see and it's just angled down to the 3rd screw mounting. other than the one side's jaw being a little loose it looks like a good vise and we don't find many big old vises around here for only a Benjamin so your call on value. as a user i'd definitely pay that much, but if you want to spiff up and flip you'll need to do your research to see the upper end.
as always when you are checking out a vise in person make sure there are no cracks, welds or missing parts. also as you are finding out with that bent screw in one of you vises on Vise Repair 101 the main screw and vise nut should be inspected.
Joe: if that pipe chain vise has all it's parts and the cool handle it's probably worth the $30 especially if it's for your personal bench. that style doesn't sell for much because the days of cast iron pipe fitting are not what they used to be. here's a couple pictures of one i own.
as always when you are checking out a vise in person make sure there are no cracks, welds or missing parts. also as you are finding out with that bent screw in one of you vises on Vise Repair 101 the main screw and vise nut should be inspected.
Joe: if that pipe chain vise has all it's parts and the cool handle it's probably worth the $30 especially if it's for your personal bench. that style doesn't sell for much because the days of cast iron pipe fitting are not what they used to be. here's a couple pictures of one i own.
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Thought I was over this terrible vise sickness, but I've had a relapse.
Picked up this little gem today and thought I would post for posterity.
This is a 2 ½" Wilton. Didn't know there was a 2 ½". CL ad had it listed as 2 ½" but I was hoping that it was the elusive "baby". Not so, but will be a keeper for sure.
Birth date is 6-30-64.
Looks like it had a swivel base at one time, but no longer.
What does the #825 and the no-5 in the casting mean?
Has seen better days, but should clean up nicely (if barn temp ever gets above 0*) Just needs a little love for the handle and some rust removal. Paint seems to be original (what's left of it) and will probably just de-rust, clean, polish and add a coat of BLO
There is considerable difference in size from the 2 ½" and the 3" as you can see from the pictures. Did not expect them to be so far apart
Can anyone tell me how many sizes Wilton were made in? I currently have them in 2 ½", 3", 4", 5" & 6". Been longing to find an affordable 2" for a while now. I think they also made an 8", but I have never personally seen one that large.
Maybe a complete set would cure this Wilton illness!
Picked up this little gem today and thought I would post for posterity.
This is a 2 ½" Wilton. Didn't know there was a 2 ½". CL ad had it listed as 2 ½" but I was hoping that it was the elusive "baby". Not so, but will be a keeper for sure.
Birth date is 6-30-64.
Looks like it had a swivel base at one time, but no longer.
What does the #825 and the no-5 in the casting mean?
Has seen better days, but should clean up nicely (if barn temp ever gets above 0*) Just needs a little love for the handle and some rust removal. Paint seems to be original (what's left of it) and will probably just de-rust, clean, polish and add a coat of BLO
There is considerable difference in size from the 2 ½" and the 3" as you can see from the pictures. Did not expect them to be so far apart
Can anyone tell me how many sizes Wilton were made in? I currently have them in 2 ½", 3", 4", 5" & 6". Been longing to find an affordable 2" for a while now. I think they also made an 8", but I have never personally seen one that large.
Maybe a complete set would cure this Wilton illness!
zoomieport
Well-known member
Can anyone tell me how many sizes Wilton were made in? I currently have them in 2 ½", 3", 4", 5" & 6". Been longing to find an affordable 2" for a while now. I think they also made an 8", but I have never personally seen one that large.
Maybe a complete set would cure this Wilton illness!
2", 2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2, 5", 6", 8" in "Bullet" sizes.
They also made "Bullet" swivel jaws in several sizes along with the Tradesman style,Mechanics style, utility vises, "flip" vises, woodworking vises, etc..
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
IMHO: $40.00 is too high of a retail price. I wouldn't go higher than $30.00, assuming that there are no issues outside of rust. That being said, those vises are good for home use. I believe that that one is a USA made one. The Japan C-Man vises have the jaw size cast into the dynamic jaw body instead of the chevrons (please correct me if I'm wrong).
BTW: I had a Japanese C-Man vise for over 20 years of industrial maintenance. It was never abused and it always did its job. The only reason its gone is because a customer gave me an offer that I couldn't refuse.
My advice: Wait until spring. There will be more vises available at yard sales, auctions, etc.
Happy trails!
Lucky 13
Active member
This is an old Craftsman vise in the shop at work. It is in very clean condition. It probably hasn't been used much. Someone made a stand for it.
