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What do you Gurus use?

Redwolf947

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I plan to do a garage rewire this spring. Right now I'm just trying to put some parts in a list.

What in the linked pics below do you prefer? :headscrat

The 1/2" clamps in plastic or metal?

The deep welded boxes or the more expensive drawn handi boxes?

The welded with NM clamps?

I can see benefits with each.

Just wonder what you all use?

I have more questions I'll add when I find more things like this..
 

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Charles (in GA)

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The drawn steel switch box is different than the others. It is designed to mount switches or receptacles directly and than have a decorative face plate installed on them.

The others are 4x4 boxes and require either a mud ring to mount the devices, or a solid steel face plate to mount the devices, On the mud ring, you then install the decorative face plate.
 

TheEquineFencer

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I plan to do a garage rewire this spring. Right now I'm just trying to put some parts in a list.

What in the linked pics below do you prefer? :headscrat

The 1/2" clamps in plastic or metal?

The deep welded boxes or the more expensive drawn handi boxes?

The welded with NM clamps?

I can see benefits with each.

Just wonder what you all use?

I have more questions I'll add when I find more things like this..

Personally, I hate the boxes with the internal clamps. If I'm doing a bunch with BX type wire and know I'll not be going back into it and have a bunch of 'em to do, I like the "snap-it" type connectors. I guess a lot depends on if you're working in a stick built building or a steel building they type of boxes you use.
 

ddawg16

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Plastic vs Metal? Depends on the application. In the garage, I used metal. House, I used plastic....in most places.

With plastic you save on all the extra you need with metal.

Obviously, ceiling fan boxes are metal.

They do make a tougher plastic box....it almost looks like fiberglass. Much tougher than the plain plastic one.

Problem with plastic....if you strip out the screw holes....your basically screwed. (pun intended).
 
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Redwolf947

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The drawn steel switch box is different than the others. It is designed to mount switches or receptacles directly and than have a decorative face plate installed on them.

The others are 4x4 boxes and require either a mud ring to mount the devices, or a solid steel face plate to mount the devices, On the mud ring, you then install the decorative face plate.

I completely understand the differences of each. I'd think in the long run the drawn boxes would be easier because of less pieces to purchase and assemble?

Thanks for answering
 
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Redwolf947

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Personally, I hate the boxes with the internal clamps. If I'm doing a bunch with BX type wire and know I'll not be going back into it and have a bunch of 'em to do, I like the "snap-it" type connectors. I guess a lot depends on if you're working in a stick built building or a steel building they type of boxes you use.

In my case it's a 1950's 22' x 22' stick built attached Garage
100a sub panel fed with 4-3 romex off a 60a breaker in main panel.
I'm going to run 12-2 NM for lights and outlets. (lights feed by outlets)

I can see the benefit of the clamps by not having to add one but also the limitations of them too.

Thanks for answering
 
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Redwolf947

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Mustang51js and sburry, I can see the plastic boxes being easier to use. I use them in the house myself. But in a garage where the work is not cover by Sheetrock or osb?

I think the steel boxes give a more professional look to a garage.

Thank you for answering
 
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Redwolf947

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Plastic vs Metal? Depends on the application. In the garage, I used metal. House, I used plastic....in most places.

With plastic you save on all the extra you need with metal.

Obviously, ceiling fan boxes are metal.

They do make a tougher plastic box....it almost looks like fiberglass. Much tougher than the plain plastic one.

Problem with plastic....if you strip out the screw holes....your basically screwed. (pun intended).

Haha yea that's a plastic problem for sure (I work in plastics). Defiantly agree on application.

Some of the boxes installed before we moved in here are that fiberglass type. Tough stuff.

Thanks for answering
 

reader2580

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The blue plastic cable clamps ****. The 20 to 30 year old plastic clamps in my house were all intact, but they break with the slightest hit. I am not sure if they are supposed to be reusable, but not in my case. I replaced them all with metal clamps.

For one house I can't imagine the price difference between plastic and metal clamps to be more than $5 or so.
 
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Redwolf947

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The blue plastic cable clamps ****. The 20 to 30 year old plastic clamps in my house were all intact, but they break with the slightest hit. I am not sure if they are supposed to be reusable, but not in my case. I replaced them all with metal clamps.

For one house I can't imagine the price difference between plastic and metal clamps to be more than $5 or so.

Agreed. I'm only looking for my garage rewire.

I'd think the plastic clips would get brittle over time causing an unsafe condition. Though with new types of plastics these days its probably not as big a problem.

Thanks for your answer.
 

rockwithjason

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Mustang51js and sburry, I can see the plastic boxes being easier to use. I use them in the house myself. But in a garage where the work is not cover by Sheetrock or osb?

I think the steel boxes give a more professional look to a garage.

Thank you for answering

if it's buried in the wall and covered with a device plate you will never see it anyway. for surface mount steel is the only way to go
 

mobiledynamics

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I live out here in BX land - can't teach a dog new tricks.
Generally all metal boxes, DEEP. Even single boxes, I use double box with a mud ring.

I use metal clamps, as all the pro sparks I've come across sweat the click fits do get loose over vibration, etc
 

teamextreme

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Depends on the wiring method. Romex, then I use plastic boxes. Conduit, then metal boxes. I use metal 2-screw romex connectors if using metal boxes. Jason is right, once it's buried in the wall it doesn't look any different. Unless you're not covering with drywall or similar.
 

Mustang51js

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Do you plan on sheet rocking at some point. New plastic boxes are pretty durable too,just as long as it doesn't get freezing and you hit them with a hammer
 
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Wirepuller

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If the garage is wood framed skip the metal boxes and go with plastic. Pass and Seymour, and Carlon I prefer. 2 of those boxes are 4" square. Not designed for devices. You would use a plaster ring or mulberry on those. The middle metal box will accept a device with no other additional parts. The black push in bushings are good, quick and cheap.
 
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Redwolf947

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teamextreme, mobiledynamics, Wirepuller. Thank you guys for your answers

rockwithjason, Mustang51js, I'm not sure if I'll be putting up drywall or plywood or anything. I also see what you mean about the visual thing. Tho I'd have to add ceiling joists to handle the weight of the drywall. I might do that and make them scissor type to accommodate a little more height for the lift i want.

I'm am leery of the plastic due to it being in a garage that sees below zero temps in winter. I'd be afraid to plug something in honestly. You do have me pricing and looking into it tho.

I appreciate and thank you for your input.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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Those are 3/8 romex clamps,not 1/2".The box on top right is the one I prefer for mounting to studs when a metal box is needed.
I also use the welded 4sq metal boxes without bracket for mounting to block walls or furnaces,I hate handy boxes.
As far as regular nail on boxes for 2x4 or 6 studs I use the fiberglass allied boxes.1098s for most general purpose single gang uses,I cant think of their number for 2 gang boxes without going out and digging one out of my van.
Only time I ever use those nasty blue plastic boxes is for cut in boxes on residential jobs.
 

6768rogues

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I have one building with conduit, THHN wire and surface mount metal boxes. I have another with Romex in the walls and plastic boxes. The first is not as good looking, but is easy to add or modify something. The second looks great, but changing anything is a pain in the ****.
That said, when in the wall I use Romex and plastic. Surface mount I use conduit and metal.
 
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Redwolf947

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Those are 3/8 romex clamps,not 1/2".The box on top right is the one I prefer for mounting to studs when a metal box is needed.
I also use the welded 4sq metal boxes without bracket for mounting to block walls or furnaces,I hate handy boxes.
As far as regular nail on boxes for 2x4 or 6 studs I use the fiberglass allied boxes.1098s for most general purpose single gang uses,I cant think of their number for 2 gang boxes without going out and digging one out of my van.
Only time I ever use those nasty blue plastic boxes is for cut in boxes on residential jobs.

According to the sites I got the pics from those are both 1/2" clamps? :dunno:
Raco
Model # 2711B5
Internet # 203671626
Store SKU # 839647
NM 1/2 in. Sheathed Cable Connector
and
Arlington 1/2" Push-In Connector (100-Pack)
Model Number: NM940-100 | Menards® SKU: 3650979

Yep I've added a couple blue plastic boxes for outlets in my home
Thank you for the reply. I think I will look into the fiberglass allied boxes now its been said a couple times.
 
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Redwolf947

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I have one building with conduit, THHN wire and surface mount metal boxes. I have another with Romex in the walls and plastic boxes. The first is not as good looking, but is easy to add or modify something. The second looks great, but changing anything is a pain in the ****.
That said, when in the wall I use Romex and plastic. Surface mount I use conduit and metal.

I've always liked the look of surface mount conduit myself if done right i guess.

I'm hoping to plan far enough ahead to not have to change/add anything later, except maybe dedicated runs for future items I don't have yet.
I still don't like plastic and cold weather :willy_nil.
Thanks for your input..
 

Norcal

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I used to be a big fan of plastic boxes, now I prefer 4 square metal boxes w/ raised rings 1/8" larger then the finish material, namely 5/8" for 1/2", & 3/4" for 5/8", that way the ring is flush with the finished surface, one of my pet peeves is azzholes who won't set the boxes flush, which in most cases means the device floats & the plate can shatter when a attachment plug is inserted or removed. If a good quality non-metallic box is used there is nothing wrong w/ them, the Slater/ P&S "Quik-Clik" box should be avoided at all costs, they are nice for the initial install but can get loose with use, some users fix is to use a drywall screw :( to attach the device, my way is to use a Heli-Coil or other thread insert.
 
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Redwolf947

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Thank you Norcal. Good information.
I've seen in a place I lived this exact thing they had a box not flush with the drywall that cover always cracked when trying to plug unplug items and the outlet always got loose.
I had thought the mud ring height was to correspond to the finished material height as in 5/8" deep ring for 5/8" drywall?
 

Norcal

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Thank you Norcal. Good information.
I've seen in a place I lived this exact thing they had a box not flush with the drywall that cover always cracked when trying to plug unplug items and the outlet always got loose.
I had thought the mud ring height was to correspond to the finished material height as in 5/8" deep ring for 5/8" drywall?

The ring will be set back 1/8" when a 5/8" ring is used w/ 5/8" drywall.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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According to the sites I got the pics from those are both 1/2" clamps? :dunno:
Raco
Model # 2711B5
Internet # 203671626
Store SKU # 839647
NM 1/2 in. Sheathed Cable Connector
and
Arlington 1/2" Push-In Connector (100-Pack)
Model Number: NM940-100 | Menards® SKU: 3650979

Yep I've added a couple blue plastic boxes for outlets in my home
Thank you for the reply. I think I will look into the fiberglass allied boxes now its been said a couple times.

Theyre sizing them by the size of the knock out in the box,theyre normally sized by the size of the hole the wire passes through in the clamp which is 3/8".;) :beer:http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...2JXcfjZksCaG41Xa4nfLZYw&bvm=bv.86956481,d.aWw
 
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Redwolf947

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zmaxmotorsports, That explains why Menard's and Lowes didn't have the 1/2" size. looks like HD size I see what your saying.. I wouldn't want that bracket on there tho I'd think it would cut into the sheathing. I have some and that plate is flat... Thank you tho..
 

tailshaft56

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Problem with plastic....if you strip out the screw holes....your basically screwed. (pun intended).


Had one stripped the other day. Just stuck a piece of a toothpick in it. screw tightens like a new box. Downside was I had already bought a new box. LOL
 

sberry

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Shallow steel are ok for switches and conventional outlets but use deeper ones for welder and many new gfci are deeper and don't fit in them even with raised cover.
 
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