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Garage with loft plans for Pierce County, Washington

Madrona

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May 25, 2014
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All over
Hi all,

After hemming and hawing over what to do, I've decided I want a stick built garage with loft above, or small apartment to the side. I'm trying to do everything out of pocket, so I can't afford expensive architects, engineers, etc. The county alone is going to **** me on fees, permits, etc.

Though I'm always of the "bigger is better" mindset, that's not happening. My funds dictate it. Here are two ideas, and I'd like to go with the cheaper option:

a) 30' x 40' single story shop. Slab on grade. Shop area of 24' x 30', with 16' x 30' living space off to the side. 12' walls with 10' door. 8/12 pitched gable roof with skylights.

b) 24' x 30' shop with upstairs loft. 12' ceiling in shop, 12/12 pitched gable roof with open beam ceiling and living quarters upstairs. Smaller footprint and less roof, but unclear on cost savings if any. Bonus would be larger living space and upstairs deck area off bedroom.

Would appreciate comments regarding where to find similar plans, and suggestions on tweaking things to make it more cost effective? Any and all comments appreciated.
 
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ColinHorgan

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Oct 25, 2012
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Ireland
I'd go with the first option solely on the living space to the side, meaning you don't have to access the workshop area to get into the living area. Living quarters upstairs would have smells and vapours coming from the workshop you'd never feel entirely like you left it? Both are good options in my humble opinion.
Good luck with it pal ��
 

seagravedriver

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Jun 4, 2010
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Puyallup
Pierce county is tough. My father in law was specifically told NO LOFT in his pole barn. Are you in a city, like Puyallup or Buckley?
 

Rock knocker

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Aug 14, 2014
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704
Pierce county is tough. My father in law was specifically told NO LOFT in his pole barn. Are you in a city, like Puyallup or Buckley?

There's more there than just that. It depends on the exiting, fire rating and fire demising. It really isn't a case of "NO LOFT" as it is a case of not sufficient construction details.

It pays to have an archy on board
 
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M

Madrona

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May 25, 2014
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All over
Take a look at my build if you'd like, might fit the bill... Lots of space on the second floor with the double pitched roof.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220503

Yeah, buddy! That's EXACTLY the look I'm going for. Unfortunately, I don't think I have the framing skills to pull that one off and roof it myself. A single gable is probably the extent of my expertise. I don't know, I guess I could read up a bit and figure it out along with blueprints, but it would definitely make the build much harder on me.

Pierce county is tough. My father in law was specifically told NO LOFT in his pole barn. Are you in a city, like Puyallup or Buckley?

Yes, Pierce County is positively AWFUL to deal with. Many times I've thought of selling the property and buying somewhere else because of these government people. It is BAD. I'm out rural in west Pierce, outside Gig Harbor.
 
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theoldwizard1

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SE MI
There's more there than just that. It depends on the exiting, fire rating and fire demising. It really isn't a case of "NO LOFT" as it is a case of not sufficient construction details.
The issue is likely "living quarters" above.

My guess is there are 2 major issues.
  • Fire rated barrier between the 2 floor. A double layer of 1/2" sheet rock (plaster board) and proper fire blocking to prevent flame from climbing between the floors.
  • Egress (door and stairs). They have to be either outside or in a fire rated hallway directly to an outside door.
 
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HydroDog

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Jan 20, 2014
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Mossyrock
Hey Madrona,
About 25 years ago I built about the same thing that you are trying out past Orting. I built mine all out of pocket and took about 2-1/2 years.

Your best bang for the buck is a Gambrel roof style if you want living space above. Mine was a 30 x 40 with a full slab downstairs. Had a 30 x 30 clear span garage with the last 10 feet that housed the stairway upstairs and a bathroom.

Upstairs I used scissors trusses for the vaulted ceiling, sitting on the canted in side walls. When I lived there I had no windows downstairs at all. I was one of the few that never go broken into in the neighbor hood.

My experience has been if you have any doorway attached to you garage to your living space, you will let the stink in if making stink.

The 12/12 roof on your option (b) is expensive to build and expensive to insulate to get to the R38 insulation code

For Pierce County, you will need to sets of engineered stamped plans.

If you think you are going to try to tell the county that it is just going to be a garage with a bathroom with no other house on the property, it's not going to fly.

Thats about my 2 cents of worthless knowledge.
 
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Madrona

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May 25, 2014
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Hey Madrona,
About 25 years ago I built about the same thing that you are trying out past Orting. I built mine all out of pocket and took about 2-1/2 years.

Your best bang for the buck is a Gambrel roof style if you want living space above. Mine was a 30 x 40 with a full slab downstairs. Had a 30 x 30 clear span garage with the last 10 feet that housed the stairway upstairs and a bathroom.

Upstairs I used scissors trusses for the vaulted ceiling, sitting on the canted in side walls. When I lived there I had no windows downstairs at all. I was one of the few that never go broken into in the neighbor hood.

My experience has been if you have any doorway attached to you garage to your living space, you will let the stink in if making stink.

The 12/12 roof on your option (b) is expensive to build and expensive to insulate to get to the R38 insulation code

For Pierce County, you will need to sets of engineered stamped plans.

If you think you are going to try to tell the county that it is just going to be a garage with a bathroom with no other house on the property, it's not going to fly.

Thats about my 2 cents of worthless knowledge.

Thanks for the reply. No, I'm not going to try to fool the county. I've already got a 4 bedroom septic installed, and a well. They know I'm doing stuff out here. It will be approved as a dwelling.
 

Doug B

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Dec 24, 2008
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Schroon Lake, NY
Not a great picture,but here's my 24x32 with bonus space above.Mine is about 9'6" floor to ceiling( I knew I would never have a lift). Access to the upper level by exterior stairs on the back side. 8/12 pitch roof on a 36" high knee wall.I hope to build an apartment up there someday.
 

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Backlight

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Dec 31, 2012
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Ontario Canada
Yeah, buddy! That's EXACTLY the look I'm going for. Unfortunately, I don't think I have the framing skills to pull that one off and roof it myself. A single gable is probably the extent of my expertise. I don't know, I guess I could read up a bit and figure it out along with blueprints, but it would definitely make the build much harder on me.

The roof was a truss package, just had to install them! It's basically just a double gable. I'm sure you could sort it out!! :thumbup:
 

buzzyng

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Jan 2, 2013
Messages
17
I just built a 28x28 shop by myself in Pierce Co and it was pretty simple. I drew up the plans myself and met with the PC engineers to address any areas they wanted. Because I'm also building a house, I couldn't build the shop as big as I would have liked. My friend who is also building put a loft up above and it is nice to have all that extra room. The change in trusses added quite a bit more. His plans were definitely more involved than mine but the cost to have it drawn up wasn't to bad.

option a would be easier framing/plans to do yourself but might be more expensive as it expands over larger space. not sure

good luck
 
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