Anyone have experiance with Original Color Chips epoxy?

[bjl95mustang]

I'm pricing out Epoxy for my new garage and was researching my various options.

I came across OCC and their 100% solid epoxy runs $160 for 3 gallons.

I searched the forum and didn't come across very much about this company.

I did see it's thicker than the some of the other 100% epoxy. But those company's you only get 1.5g for about the same price.

I've priced it out and I'm at $820-850 for 750-850sf of coverage. My garage is only 650sf.

3gal primer
6gal of 100% solid epoxy
2.5g of topcoat
chips
Tool kit etc

Comp prices I've come up with is $1000+ for a comparable kit from some other company's. This is also less material in some cases.

Any input would be great.

 

[67rstbkt]

I just used this in my garage and made some mistakes -
The 100% solids (system 4) is extremely thick. It was so thick that it broke one of my rollers. I should have done a few things differently -
1: Wait for the correct temperature
2: get a heavy duty roller specifically for high solids
3: get a mixer to attach to a drill - part B is thicker than peanut butter.
4: get spike shoes

Because it was so thick, it was hard to spread out and get into the cracks. I would suggest maybe mixing a small amount first to get the expansion joints (if you have them) and the edges. Drying time seemed excessive too - it was still tacky a few days later, but I had no idea what I was doing (see 4 points above).

I ended up doing the step 1 pre-prime 167, step 2 100% solids epoxy - then stopped. I ordered 2 gallons of the Norklad water based stuff from them (stated it was compatible on the site) in the same color and went over the whole thing, I followed up with the high performance clear included in the system 4 kit. It ended up very nice looking and it seems durable, but I can't speak to long term since it's only about a month old.

 

[67rstbkt]

A few pics:
Before and after the clear - the picture with the lift is after the clear was applied

 

[Garage Flooring]

A few pics:
Before and after the clear - the picture with the lift is after the clear was applied

Your floor looks outstanding!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Guys, if the coating is that thick it may have been curing as you were working it.

Mix it and dump on the floor, in ribbons, begin rolling immediately.




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[mnavillus]

how many lbs. of flakes? 100% broadcast? other?

 

[67rstbkt]

Guys, if the coating is that thick it may have been curing as you were working it.

Mix it and dump on the floor, in ribbons, begin rolling immediately.

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Yep, that's what I started doing - but it was also too cold when I was applying. My mistake

how many lbs. of flakes? 100% broadcast? other?

I just grabbed a handful and lightly sprinkled - probably a 1/2 pound or so for the 480 sq. ft. - A light sprinkle is what I would call it

A few pics:
Before and after the clear - the picture with the lift is after the clear was applied

Your floor looks outstanding!

Appreciate that, Thank you! I was surprised it came out as good as it did given my screw-ups during the process. Hopefully others can learn from my mistakes.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, good idea to keep your coatings in the house prior to mixing in cold weather.

Looks great!


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[67rstbkt]

Yes, good idea to keep your coatings in the house prior to mixing in cold weather.

Looks great!


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I did do that, but it was way too cold outside to be doing it, plus it was getting dark and I had not yet installed any lighting - Some bad decisions were made that night, lol. Another thought I had is to mix a smaller quantity of the stuff so I have more time before it starts to thicken.

Another tip for the op/something to be aware of - this stuff is strong, use a mask when applying.

 

[67rstbkt]

Here's a closer shot of how it came out

 

[bjl95mustang]

Thanks for the pics and info. I don't see a 100% solids kit on their site. You have to build it yourself now. The #4 kit comes with the solvent based epoxy now.

I'm just researching what I want to do now. Our house wont be finished till june/july. Here in Texas the high in July could be 100+ so I will have to put down night or in the mornings. I can get helpers but it will be hard at those times with all of my buddies having kids and wife's. So my only option might me solvent based.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thanks for the pics and info. I don't see a 100% solids kit on their site. You have to build it yourself now. The #4 kit comes with the solvent based epoxy now.

I'm just researching what I want to do now. Our house wont be finished till june/july. Here in Texas the high in July could be 100+ so I will have to put down night or in the mornings. I can get helpers but it will be hard at those times with all of my buddies having kids and wife's. So my only option might me solvent based.

As them for a full spec sheet. Pot life's on epoxy are notoriously short, but there are some things, as Legacy indicated that can be done to improve your chances -- mix and dump, for example.

Also, check with them as to what is included in their kits. We have started reducing our pricing on our 1.5 gallon kits on products like our high solids epoxy to encourage people to buy multiples of that as opposed to the larger packaging. If they are sending 3 gallon kits, they might be willing to substitute or you might be able to order them individually. Obviously the smaller the packaging the less you have to mix or try to measure out the product and the less you have to rush.

Next check with them on how much flake they are sending. I like my broadcast a little heavier than a lot of kits include, so I tend to order more flake.

Lastly make sure you get from them what the DFT will be at the coverage rate they recommend.

 

[benwah]

It would be wiser to install at night, with falling concrete temperatures, rather than morning when the temperature is rising. If installing in summer and a hot area

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

10-4!! Benwah. Rising morning temps can bring moisture out of the floor causing the "bubbles".

 

[Coating Guy]

Many good products out there. Lots of good advice above. But a major consideration needs to be the floor prep you are willing to do. I have coated floors for years and in my business I would never guarantee adhesion of a 100% solids product unless the floor was ground or shot blasted. Acid etch was not enough for me to be sure. If you want to clean and acid etch get a product with a little (or a lot in the case of a primer) solvent. They flow better, penetrate the surface, and thus bond better. Contact me if you want more info.

 

[67rstbkt]

Many good products out there. Lots of good advice above. But a major consideration needs to be the floor prep you are willing to do. I have coated floors for years and in my business I would never guarantee adhesion of a 100% solids product unless the floor was ground or shot blasted. Acid etch was not enough for me to be sure. If you want to clean and acid etch get a product with a little (or a lot in the case of a primer) solvent. They flow better, penetrate the surface, and thus bond better. Contact me if you want more info.

Good point here - I forgot to mention that my application was on a new foundation (no oil or other contaminants) and that the contractor left it in a fine brush finish and did not apply any curing agent.

Also, I am certain that the solvent based stuff the OP indicated (system 4) is what I used since my kit was purchased in December 14

 

[bjl95mustang]

Thanks for all of the info. I'm just waiting on selling our current house before I buy the coating. Have to see how much we make to see how much I'm allowed to spend.

They should pour the slab in march and we wouldn't move in till late June or July. So that should give plenty of cure time.

I did have some prep questions. I'm planning on using the dimabrush with a floor polisher. I found the setup for $100 a day from home depot rental. I'm going to do wet to cut down on the dust. The only issue I see is getting into the corners of the slab. Should I just acid wash the whole garage then dimabrush it? I'm just trying to avoid buying the smaller grinder attachment. Then I will finish up with a power wash.

 

[benwah]

No need to acid wash if you're grinding it. You need the smaller grinder attachment for the corners. Try to see if maybe a friend will go in with you on it so he can do his garage too if you want to save money.

 

[67rstbkt]

Thanks for all of the info. I'm just waiting on selling our current house before I buy the coating. Have to see how much we make to see how much I'm allowed to spend.

They should pour the slab in march and we wouldn't move in till late June or July. So that should give plenty of cure time.

I did have some prep questions. I'm planning on using the dimabrush with a floor polisher. I found the setup for $100 a day from home depot rental. I'm going to do wet to cut down on the dust. The only issue I see is getting into the corners of the slab. Should I just acid wash the whole garage then dimabrush it? I'm just trying to avoid buying the smaller grinder attachment. Then I will finish up with a power wash.

You might want to look into how they pour the slab before doing all that. My contractor said that I did not need to grind or acid wash if they left the slab with a light brush finish and skipped the curing agent - so that's what I did. I have no idea if this is correct, but it might be worth looking into it since yours is new construction. The only issue I had with it is that it takes more material to fill in compared to a completely smooth surface.

 

[Shea]

You can get a cheap grinder from Harbor Freight. You can find it here for $12.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-60625.html

You can get a 4 or 5 inch cup wheel for just over $30 as well.

 

[Shea]

My contractor said that I did not need to grind or acid wash if they left the slab with a light brush finish and skipped the curing agent

Not the best idea folks. New concrete can leave excess laitance and other contaminants at the surface which will inhibit the bond. One of the most common misconceptions that people have is thinking that "new concrete" does not need to be prepped.

 

[benwah]

Yup ^

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Shea, you said it best!

 

[67rstbkt]

Not the best idea folks. New concrete can leave excess laitance and other contaminants at the surface which will inhibit the bond. One of the most common misconceptions that people have is thinking that "new concrete" does not need to be prepped.

I said earlier I had no idea what I was talking about - and to research it Hopefully mine holds up.