Underhoist oil drain
- Thread starter Tom H.
- Start date
killahog
Well-known member
Matt. Would opening the main ball valve, the one that is located on the drain pipe release the pressure.? Or is there still pressure below the gauge that you were having trouble with.
Kinda like that one, easy to move around and then dump the old oil out of it.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
What about a ball valve on the regulator inlet that has a pressure relief port. Turn it so it relieves the pressure back thru the regulator when the valve is closed.
Charles
Charles
I've had the cheap 5 gal. HF unit for about 4 years now with no problems. I plug the center funnel hole with a PVC plug and it seals fine and is easy to drain at the recycler. I've not had any problems with the wheels or the funnel and I got it with a coupon for $34.95. Couldn't pass it up at that price.
vettex2
Banned
on a
You mean the big pipe that the funnel connects to? Yes...that would release the same pressure..and I tried that the first time I evacuated the unit.
So why did I add the valve to bleed off pressure?
As I wrote earlier...in my first use, I added more pressure than I should have and needed to it stop. I opened that big valve on the upper pipe to bleed off the pressure. My best description is that it "cleared it's throat" of oil straight up. Gave me a bit of a clean up job.
sberry
Banned
If it was going to end up in a bucket anyway would consider the stand and a funnel attatchment even a hose down to the bucket, have valve, don't forget to open or make funnel 6 qts etc.
Why even mess with air, drain it in to a pail.
Why even mess with air, drain it in to a pail.
sberry
Banned
You got to take the oil somewhere. Unless I had direct way to pump it off to a barrel or tank it involved handling again. I have to secondary handle from the try to the bucket but from there is easy to walk it to the dump which is in another building.
I looked at one and decided I didn't want or need it and it was extra equipment. The parts that would be good would be the funnel a valve and the hose, skip the tank, drain to a pail which you could do lid on easily. Let gravity do it.
I looked at one and decided I didn't want or need it and it was extra equipment. The parts that would be good would be the funnel a valve and the hose, skip the tank, drain to a pail which you could do lid on easily. Let gravity do it.
The HF drain with pressure empty work perfectly for me. I can pump it without mess into the 5qt containers that the oil comes in and take it to the store where I bought the new oil.
Your mileage may vary...but I've used regular drain pans, the smaller plastic roll around drains....my problem always was that pouring the old oil into a transport container with a funnel, etc to be a mess.
Your mileage may vary...but I've used regular drain pans, the smaller plastic roll around drains....my problem always was that pouring the old oil into a transport container with a funnel, etc to be a mess.
NoSloCoupes
Well-known member
Had to do this to mine, of course i found out the hard way.
Mine was more like a penhole...size of an ink pen tip. Give it a look over before use.
killahog
Well-known member
Had to do this to mine, of course i found out the hard way.
Mine was more like a penhole...size of an ink pen tip. Give it a look over before use.
I just assembled mine, I think I will put some water in it to leak check it before use.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I'll tell you how not to do the valve.
I figured a three way valve under the pressure regulator that would shut off the incoming air and relieve the pressure in the tank at the same time would be the ticket.
Three way valves are around $25, and regular Pnumatic ball valves are only $3 at HF.
I got the brainy idea to modify one by drilling a hole through the housing and ball, take apart to deburr, then put back together with the ball rotated 180° So the hole in the ball would be opposite of the hole in the housing while the air was pressurizing the tank.
It looked good on paper, but when I went to put it back together after the deburr I realised that the sides of the ball are not sealed while in the housing so air would escape from the side of the valve while filling with the side hole in the ball was opposite of the bal, in the housing.
DARN, back to the drawing board. Now I'm wondering if I could inject the housing with some sort of nylon to seal the ball all the way around, then clear the nylon out of the holes in the ball with a drill while it is still assembled.
At least I had fun tinkering and had a $3 lesson that reminded me how a ball valve sealed internally .
I took photos of the process (below) when I still thought it was a slick idea. If I can inject sealer in the valve it may still be. Any ideas on what to inject it with?
Chris
Here is the valve.
Getting ready to center drill. (The pedal is for my dental drill. $11 on e-bay, I put a bit of paper towel I the air onlet before screwing the valve in so swarth would not get into the foot calve switch)
Drill
Chanfer
Deburr
I figured a three way valve under the pressure regulator that would shut off the incoming air and relieve the pressure in the tank at the same time would be the ticket.
Three way valves are around $25, and regular Pnumatic ball valves are only $3 at HF.
I got the brainy idea to modify one by drilling a hole through the housing and ball, take apart to deburr, then put back together with the ball rotated 180° So the hole in the ball would be opposite of the hole in the housing while the air was pressurizing the tank.
It looked good on paper, but when I went to put it back together after the deburr I realised that the sides of the ball are not sealed while in the housing so air would escape from the side of the valve while filling with the side hole in the ball was opposite of the bal, in the housing.
DARN, back to the drawing board. Now I'm wondering if I could inject the housing with some sort of nylon to seal the ball all the way around, then clear the nylon out of the holes in the ball with a drill while it is still assembled.
At least I had fun tinkering and had a $3 lesson that reminded me how a ball valve sealed internally .
I took photos of the process (below) when I still thought it was a slick idea. If I can inject sealer in the valve it may still be. Any ideas on what to inject it with?
Chris
Here is the valve.
Getting ready to center drill. (The pedal is for my dental drill. $11 on e-bay, I put a bit of paper towel I the air onlet before screwing the valve in so swarth would not get into the foot calve switch)
Drill
Chanfer
Deburr
Last edited:
goforride57
Well-known member
Do you change that much oil to warrant modifying a 3 dollar valve? Use a 5 gallon pail rather than 1 gallon milk jugs. Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I usually pump mine out when it gets to 15 to 20 gallons of oil in it, so I'm filling multiple 5 gallon jugs in a row. If you don't dump the pressure in the storage tank when you shut off the air input it will keep evacuating oil from the compressed tank.
The 3way valve would stop the air input and would drop the pressure in the tank at the same time. In addition an open vent at the top of the tank comes in handy when the tank gets more than 1/2 full. If you don't vent it the oil goes more slowly down the neck tube once the oil level is above the level of the base of the neck tube. I currently take the pressure regulator off of the tank except when I'm evacuating, so a cheap 3way valve would help on multiple levels.
Plus a failed prototype on a $3 valve isn't a big deal.
Chris