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Grounding receptacles

Redwolf947

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Ok quick question. Running 12/2 romex can I use 14awg solid thhn as ground wires for the pigtails from the receptacles to the romex ground wire?

I am using 12awg thhn pigtails for the white and black.
 
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woodzy

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In the old days that was typical but now I think you should use the same as the other conductors.
 

Mustang51js

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Question is if your running rx why would you have tails,get barrel crimps,twist the two together,cut off one tail and crimp,or get green wirenuts,and last if you do it the way you want,you have to keep it same size
 

Mustang51js

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My iPad makes it hard to copy stuff, but look up barrel crimps. Basically you take the two ground wires, twist them together about 5 times, but you start inside the box, now you have two tails shaped into a v facing the box,you cut one of them off and now you have one long tail with the other wire twisted an inch or so on it, the barrel crimp slides over that and gets crimped on. You would need a crimping tool or linesman pliers with the crimp on it. Other option is same way but instead of crimp you use a green wire nut that has a hole in the top of it,that slides over the wire and tighten
 
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Redwolf947

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Thanks for the reply's guys.. I didn't explain. I'm wiring for 2 duplex receptacles on a mud-ring for a steel box.. Just trying to prep some before I need em. I cut all tails to 6" hope that's not too long as 12awg is tough to work with.

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I was hoping the 14awg wire I had would work.

I'll go buy a spool of 12awg thhn for the ground wires. I have a bunch of ground screws from a different project so I don't think I'll buy the pre-made type. I have some greenies too but I'd think that'd be a pain to use in this situation. I didn't see a spool of bare 12awg wire so it'll have insulation.

I see what you mean now Mustang51js. I don't have a crimping tool tho.
 

ddawg16

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Same size wire.

I like the green wire nuts with the hole in the top. Makes it easier to stuff hte pigtail into the box.

BTW.....if you are using 12/2 Romex...it will include a 12Awg ground wire. Not sure why you think you need to run another ground.

Refresher course....

12/2 romex....1 Black, 1 White...and a bare ground. All 12Awg.
12/3 romex....1 Black, 1 White, 1 Red...and a bare ground. All 12Awg.
 

TheEquineFencer

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Ok quick question. Running 12/2 romex can I use 14awg solid thhn as ground wires for the pigtails from the receptacles to the romex ground wire?

I am using 12awg thhn pigtails for the white and black.

If it's JUST for the grounds, I think you can go one size below, but I wouldn't personally. It looks like you want to downsize because it's easier to work with from what you're saying. It's not that hard to do, you're already working with 12 awg, why not stay with it. You can strip the black/wht wires and use them for a ground wire and not buy anymore wire.
 
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Redwolf947

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Same size wire.

I like the green wire nuts with the hole in the top. Makes it easier to stuff hte pigtail into the box.

BTW.....if you are using 12/2 Romex...it will include a 12Awg ground wire. Not sure why you think you need to run another ground.

Refresher course....

12/2 romex....1 Black, 1 White...and a bare ground. All 12Awg.
12/3 romex....1 Black, 1 White, 1 Red...and a bare ground. All 12Awg.

Right for sure. If I was only wiring one receptacle I'd not need anything but the 3 wires (1 Black, 1 White...and a bare ground) from the romex going into the receptacle in a plastic box. I would ground the box and receptacle in a steel box.
 

CGT80

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If that box and pair of receptacles are the end of your circuit, you could wire it with just the romex and no wire nuts, and no breaks in the wire, but you need a nice long tail of romex hanging out of the box to work with.

The method may not meet some codes or inspector preferences, but makes a lot of sense because you don't have fewer places for the electrical to fail.

I would suggest having a 12"+ length of romex hanging out of the box. Strip off the out jacket, then loop the ground wire around the green ground screw inside the box. Just outside of the box, loop that same ground wire around the screw on the first receptacle and tighten that screw. Lastly, terminate that ground wire at the ground screw on the second receptacle. Loop the neutral on the first receptacle and tighten the screw, and then terminate it on the second receptacle. Of course, you have to strip the insulation for the loop. Make two cuts into the insulation where you want your loop (3/4" to 1" apart) and then cut between the two with a knife, to remove the insulation in just that part.

This method allows you to connect everything and the wires are never broken and there are no wire nut connections to go bad. I always twist my wires together, trim, and then twist on a wirenut, but many people don't make secure connections.

If this box will have a line going out to another load, then I would connect the two receptacles together with the method above, so the pair only has one set of pigtails and then you will have your line in and line out, for a total of three wires for each wire nut. I use #12 for the grounds and all pigtails with no issues.

I looked for a picture on the internet of what I explained, but came up short.
 
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Redwolf947

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If that box and pair of receptacles are the end of your circuit, you could wire it with just the romex and no wire nuts, and no breaks in the wire, but you need a nice long tail of romex hanging out of the box to work with.

The method may not meet some codes or inspector preferences, but makes a lot of sense because you don't have fewer places for the electrical to fail.

I would suggest having a 12"+ length of romex hanging out of the box. Strip off the out jacket, then loop the ground wire around the green ground screw inside the box. Just outside of the box, loop that same ground wire around the screw on the first receptacle and tighten that screw. Lastly, terminate that ground wire at the ground screw on the second receptacle. Loop the neutral on the first receptacle and tighten the screw, and then terminate it on the second receptacle. Of course, you have to strip the insulation for the loop. Make two cuts into the insulation where you want your loop (3/4" to 1" apart) and then cut between the two with a knife, to remove the insulation in just that part.

This method allows you to connect everything and the wires are never broken and there are no wire nut connections to go bad. I always twist my wires together, trim, and then twist on a wirenut, but many people don't make secure connections.

If this box will have a line going out to another load, then I would connect the two receptacles together with the method above, so the pair only has one set of pigtails and then you will have your line in and line out, for a total of three wires for each wire nut. I use #12 for the grounds and all pigtails with no issues.

I looked for a picture on the internet of what I explained, but came up short.

I can imagine what your saying. Just looping one wire to each termanal of the receptical..
 
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Redwolf947

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So do most of you, if hooking up a double dueplex like this use pigtails or run a ' jumper' between recepticals? Asking this about the rest of the wires white, black, red (if used). I understand the pigtails are the most preferred correct?
 

DonPowers

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I have been using the push in connectors in lieu of wire nuts for some applications. They come in various configurations and I have seen from two port to 8 port configurations at Lowes and the local electrical supply house.

Don't know what the NEC or local codes have to say about them for use with outlets. All of the can light fixtures I bought for the garage had the 4 port push in connectors inside.

I would expect that if they were rated for #12 wire, they would be good for 20 amps. Does anyone know for sure?

http://www.tequipment.net/Ideal30-1...utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Campaign
 
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Redwolf947

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Messages
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South East WI
I have been using the push in connectors in lieu of wire nuts for some applications. They come in various configurations and I have seen from two port to 8 port configurations at Lowes and the local electrical supply house.

Don't know what the NEC or local codes have to say about them for use with outlets. All of the can light fixtures I bought for the garage had the 4 port push in connectors inside.

I would expect that if they were rated for #12 wire, they would be good for 20 amps. Does anyone know for sure?

http://www.tequipment.net/Ideal30-1...utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Campaign

I've seen those before here on GJ and in the store. I'd think they are like the backstab outlets.. But not sure..

There is a style that locks. Wago 222-413 LEVER-NUTS. If I were to use something new I think I'd use these.. Are they NEC approved?
 

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