bl00
Well-known member
About 0.00%, give or take a zero
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
About 0.00%, give or take a zero
bigcaddy
Well-known member
You sure?
I searched and came up with a yost vise parts page. 105 jaws are 75.00 for a pair but maybe they are a new style and don't fit the older ones
Garageguy54
Active member
Well here are my vises, this is a great thread by the way. I've been collecting bench vises for about 2 years. This is my collection- from left to right.
Wilton 930- 3 1/2 in jaws- made in 1947
Rock island 974- 4 inch jaws- stamped 5/43
Chas parker 574 1/2- 4 1/2 inch jaws- 80lbs- date of Manu.?
Prentiss adjustable jaw vise-4 inch jaws- date 1880s
Athol 723 1/2- 3 1/2 inch jaws- patent 1912-Manu.Date?
Athol 713- 3 inch jaws- patent 1912- Manu date?
Wilton CO- 3 1/2 inch jaws- date stamped 6-30-64 (guar exp)
Not shown- Goldie maker peg leg vise- 4 inch jaws- date of Manu.1842-49
Sorry the pic isn't better
Wilton 930- 3 1/2 in jaws- made in 1947
Rock island 974- 4 inch jaws- stamped 5/43
Chas parker 574 1/2- 4 1/2 inch jaws- 80lbs- date of Manu.?
Prentiss adjustable jaw vise-4 inch jaws- date 1880s
Athol 723 1/2- 3 1/2 inch jaws- patent 1912-Manu.Date?
Athol 713- 3 inch jaws- patent 1912- Manu date?
Wilton CO- 3 1/2 inch jaws- date stamped 6-30-64 (guar exp)
Not shown- Goldie maker peg leg vise- 4 inch jaws- date of Manu.1842-49
Sorry the pic isn't better
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gatewaysysop
Well-known member
Very nice!
You don't see many 7" Athols out there. Know the feeling of being unable to walk away from a big Athol. It's a sickness.
dirtydogintex
Well-known member
it has 'character'.... and that's a good thing!!
That is my question. I suspect they're a newer style so I'll probably leave the vise alone.
FYI, it is missing one of the pipe jaws. Check it over thoroughly for cracks, etc. Otherwise buy it.
Very nice assortment
That's wild. Are there any other problems besides the missing corner? It may just have gotten bumped. You can match a piece of cast or even mild steel and weld or braze it in to fill the void. The chances of that section seeing load in use is very, very small unless you plan on using it at max opening all the time.
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tool_scrounge
Well-known member
3,000,000+ Views!
And then people post and complain that prices are going up and cheap vises cannot be found
Yeah, those Coltons caught my eye too. So far I have 8 of 'em, in all five sizes I'm aware of. There seem to be more coming on the market as folks like us keep paying "too much" for them. I came across one interesting variant - has the stud-through-bench mounting scheme, with the head of the stud sliding into a dovetail on the bottom of the vise. Naturally, the stud and wingnut are missing.
Calling Outlaw... you have some Coltons- any spare studs/wingnuts?
FMC1959
Well-known member
I think it wouldn't hurt to ask Yost. I remember Autopts saying he visited them, a small 12 man shop. They could have older parts lying around. Being small, they are probably more customer friendly and might be more willing to help find a solution for you...if possible.
joe.striper
Well-known member
http://hartford.craigslist.org/tls/4924556807.html
ts funny, this is the 6th Parker 954 ive seen this week. Cl seller is asking 50. I dont want it but I will buy it if no one else does....
ts funny, this is the 6th Parker 954 ive seen this week. Cl seller is asking 50. I dont want it but I will buy it if no one else does....
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joe.striper
Well-known member
I paid $70 for the pair.
glend123
Well-known member
I picked this up at an estate sale on Sat.. 6" jaws. I don't see any obvious identification on it, but I might find something after i clean it up. I'm a novice when it comes to vises, so does anyone know what it is or at least give your opinion on if it's a good one. I paid $30.
Thanks
Thanks
Garage guy---Very nice "family" to keep you company. Regarding the Rock Island 974, aren't the jaws a bit bigger than 4"?. I had a 973 up until a few weeks ago, and it had 4" jaws. I thought the 974 was at least 4.5" (and 20 lbs heavier). Also, does your Wilton C0 say "Guar Exp" along with the date? If not, not so sure the mfr date is 4/54.
joe.striper
Well-known member
I picked this up at an estate sale on Sat.. 6" jaws. I don't see any obvious identification on it, but I might find something after i clean it up. I'm a novice when it comes to vises, so does anyone know what it is or at least give your opinion on if it's a good one. I paid $30.
Thanks
looks like an asian import. Always remember that if there is chrome chances are it is an import. Or as I like to say "if it's got chrome it don't go home". This is a great vise to start with. Many on here, including me, have started with Chinese vises.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The guy called me saying the vise says superior on the side and not wilton. Is it still a wilton?
oldldh
Well-known member
It looks like a Wilton...
It looks like it says 1780 on the side...
If it does say 1780...
It's a 1780...
Which is...
An 8" wide jaw, Wilton Tradesman...
Which is a damn nice, big vise...
Pipe jaws are missing, they may be available from www.wiltonviseparts.net ...
Or from the Wilton factory...
If it's a Wilton 1780 Tradesman Vise...
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
For $50 I'm gonna buy it even if I don't keep it. He just said its about 18" long closed and opens 6".
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
I second that opinion. However, 30$ is a fair price for that. Most guys here don't like Asian vises. They are good for light homeowner's use, to weld on (I wouldn't weld on a vintage vise), or to keep outside.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
The seller just text me
"Its a vise that my grand father had for years he got from brown n sharp. Now i have it. What it saids on it is what i listed in the ad. I looked up the numbers and its a superior 6 in vise late 1960' -69 was made. "
Trey T
Well-known member
Go bag it, man! I want one of those vise, too, but a smaller version, model 1745.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
jreb10
Well-known member
Many of us started off with these types of vises. I had one like it (overpaid for it of course). It was strong though, and after scraping off the dirt I found "TAIWAN" cast into one of the mounting tabs. Except the "N" was mirror-imaged! Must have been an early export before they mastered all the letters.
These are the vises that teach us how to take them apart and put them together. I made many mistakes with mine but I learned what to do and how to do it, so my later vises were handled properly.
Enjoy it and let it teach you.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
joe.striper
Well-known member
Here is a Yost Vise in the Hudson Valley of NY. Yost 5.5" jaws and a smaller exposed screw Little Giant. Came out of his Grandads basement. He's looking for 150 for the pair, but is negotiable. He said the big Yost weighs a ton, he thinks over 90 lbs. Someone tried to get both for 75 but he rebuffed the offer. Sellers name is Joe, nice guy who just wants to move these. Wish I was closer. 845-500-5691
Originally listed as a 7" Yost it got my attention but when I got the pics and he measured it accurately. Damn, I'd be on the road right now if it was 7"!!
Wonder what make the bench grinder is that's in his trunk as well?
Originally listed as a 7" Yost it got my attention but when I got the pics and he measured it accurately. Damn, I'd be on the road right now if it was 7"!!
Wonder what make the bench grinder is that's in his trunk as well?
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ShadowRuleZ
Well-known member
It might not say Wilton on it, a lot of the tradesmans just had stickers that have come off. Still looks like a Wilton to me, maybe there's another sticker on it that says Superior or something.
454ragtop
Well-known member
With the red paint, possibly Milwaukee?
CwazyWabbit
Well-known member
Mr postman has just delivered what I believe to be a Wadkin universal ball and socket vice
The ball is held in the socket by a poured babbitt like material.
Weighing in at 40lbs it's larger than it looks
The ball is held in the socket by a poured babbitt like material.
Weighing in at 40lbs it's larger than it looks
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Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
cagullett1
Well-known member
For guys who have used different vises over the years, is there any creative way to avoid looking at the drill holes left from the previous vise if the bolt pattern is different?
Also, looking through some of these photos, some guys seem to mount their vise pretty far from the edge of their bench. I was always told by my older generations that the static jaw should just barely hang over the edge of the bench so that its possible to hold a something long and vertical. Is this reasonable logic?
Also, looking through some of these photos, some guys seem to mount their vise pretty far from the edge of their bench. I was always told by my older generations that the static jaw should just barely hang over the edge of the bench so that its possible to hold a something long and vertical. Is this reasonable logic?
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
I hope that I didn't sound disrespectful toward Asian vises. You bring up a good point as a restoration learning tool.
I have an Enco Taiwan drill press that I've owned for over 25 years. It has done everything that I asked of it. It has never been abused and gets cleaned & lubricated periodically. I keep a Chinese vise to do my "beater" work. I'd rather destroy a 10$ vise than a restored Chas Parker. Also, the Asian vises that I flip go very quickly because it satisfies those customers who don't need or want to pay a higher price for vintage iron.
That being said, I would rather use a vintage iron vise for the rest of my jobs. I like the feel in using them and they clamp the work so much better than my beater vise.
CwazyWabbit
Well-known member
If you are mounting to a metal bench top just get a bit of 1/4" plate large enough to cover the old vice holes and then bolt your new vice through that as well.
Although lets be honest we all want a bigger vice so just buy one big enough to cover the holes from the previous one
joe.striper
Well-known member
You know I've always had the same issue. I found what I think is a reasonable solution that will work for all but the most strenuous applications. I credit this to Joshua Kavitt of the Fisher Norris Museum in New Jersey.
What Josh does is to bolt a piece of wood to his worktop and that is permanently mounted. He then bolts the vise into the wood using heavy wood lag screws/bolts. If he changes the vise out he only has to replace the sacrificial piece utilizing the same bolt holes. I now do the same thing in my shop but I use two pieces of 2x8. The bottom is permanently bolted and then I lag bolt through both pieces making sure I do not penetrate the bench top. This works great for my big iron fixed base vises where I need to notch the bench.
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Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
Different work needs. My daily work vise is mounted on a movable iron base for those odd jobs. You're right about the static jaw being mounted parallel with the edge of the bench.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
So I bought it for $40.
It's a 1760 6" vise. Still in very nice condition. Just missing one of 2 pipe jaws. It has the numbers 121033 on it. Here she is.
It's a 1760 6" vise. Still in very nice condition. Just missing one of 2 pipe jaws. It has the numbers 121033 on it. Here she is.
joe.striper
Well-known member
Hey wrong answer on the vise location...the real answer is that if you have a long piece you mount it in your #11 COLE Vise which will rotate the work 360 degrees!! See, the real answer is you need a vise for EVERY possible situation!
va.grouseman
Well-known member
Previously posted by cagullett1.
For guys who have used different vises over the years, is there any creative way to avoid looking at the drill holes left from the previous vise if the bolt pattern is different?
Also, looking through some of these photos, some guys seem to mount their vise pretty far from the edge of their bench. I was always told by my older generations that the static jaw should just barely hang over the edge of the bench so that its possible to hold a something long and vertical. Is this reasonable logic?
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The answer to your second question is that the older generation are right as far as versatility, usability, user friendly, (which are all the same thing), are concerned, but in the end I guess it comes down to preference.
As concerning the first question, I went from a 6'' Columbian stationary to an 8'' Columbian swiveling b------d.---I thought the increase in size would cover the old bolt pattern but the patterns were so different that two of the holes were still exposed.---I thought about using them as rod benders but I couldn't stand to look at them.---My bench has 3/8 plate over 5'' bridge timbers so I just found some round stock slightly larger than the 5/8'' holes that were left and ground them in a slight cone shaped rod all except at the big end.---Drove them in with a sledge and you can't even see a seam.---I could have just welded them closed, but welding over creosote timbers can get a little harry.
For guys who have used different vises over the years, is there any creative way to avoid looking at the drill holes left from the previous vise if the bolt pattern is different?
Also, looking through some of these photos, some guys seem to mount their vise pretty far from the edge of their bench. I was always told by my older generations that the static jaw should just barely hang over the edge of the bench so that its possible to hold a something long and vertical. Is this reasonable logic?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The answer to your second question is that the older generation are right as far as versatility, usability, user friendly, (which are all the same thing), are concerned, but in the end I guess it comes down to preference.
As concerning the first question, I went from a 6'' Columbian stationary to an 8'' Columbian swiveling b------d.---I thought the increase in size would cover the old bolt pattern but the patterns were so different that two of the holes were still exposed.---I thought about using them as rod benders but I couldn't stand to look at them.---My bench has 3/8 plate over 5'' bridge timbers so I just found some round stock slightly larger than the 5/8'' holes that were left and ground them in a slight cone shaped rod all except at the big end.---Drove them in with a sledge and you can't even see a seam.---I could have just welded them closed, but welding over creosote timbers can get a little harry.
The guy called me saying the vise says superior on the side and not wilton. Is it still a wilton?
That looks to be a 1760, 6" vise. I don't think Wilton ever had their 1780 made abroad. The 1740, 1750, 1760's were the "no name" vise once their sticker fell off. There are some USA made 1760's out there and I've seen a couple of 1750's, USA stamped but not many. I believe the 1760 was being made in China when Wilton pulled the plug on Chinese production and the remainder of 1760's were made here until Wilton revamped the line going with the 1/2" sizes 1745, 1755,1765, I found the later made 1750's & 60's made abroad to be damm nice vises.
update I did not see the previous post.
joe.striper
Well-known member
A Wilton 1760 was my first good acquisition and restoration. Got mine off of a Snap-On truck. A little better shape than yours initially. It was a GREAT vise. Unlike you I paid $165.00 for mine. Good luck!
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joe.striper
Well-known member
Autopts (Obiewan) I lovingly disagree that the 1760's were ever made overseas. I read a ton that these larger tradesman vises were always made here.
I know you believe differently, so I suggest we both travel to a neutral site and 'wrassle' each other, the winner gets to claim the prize that their POV is right!