Easiest way to wire this?

[robertwhite]

Sorry for the crude drawing....

Want to use ONE circuit (20A breaker) to wire 2 independent can lights, each with their own switch.

All areas are accessible.

This would be simple if both switches were in the same gang box, but these switches will be at either end of a 20 ft room where a wall will be. The wall in between makes the 2 areas separate, and each room has its own purpose.

Looking for the easiest way to do this with 12/2 or 12/3 wire (I only want to use one breaker slot in the panel)

 

[jonjon1]

Sorry for the crude drawing....

Want to use ONE circuit (20A breaker) to wire 2 independent can lights, each with their own switch.

All areas are accessible.

This would be simple if both switches were in the same gang box, but these switches will be at either end of a 20 ft room where a wall will be. The wall in between makes the 2 areas separate, and each room has its own purpose.

Looking for the easiest way to do this with 12/2 or 12/3 wire (I only want to use one breaker slot in the panel)

Go from the panel to switch 1 with your 12/2, on your switch you will have a plug in lug and a push in {std on most 20a switches}, L1 will go into the puch in of the switch, then run the 12/2 to the light that switch operates. Now also run a 12/2 from that box {use the screw lug} to the switch box for light 2... Easy enough, you are using switch 1 as a junction box for switch 2.

Switch 1 switches light one but the hot side of the switch also feeds switch 2. You can use a larger box for this and use wire nuts, but for something like this the push in connector is how I would do it, I hate using them but I also hate a bunch of wire nuts everywhere...

 

[Wirepuller]

12/2 from Panel to first switch. 12/2 from first switch to second switch. 12/2 from switch one to light one. 12/2 from switch two to light two. In the switch box you will have a feed in feed out and load to the light. All grounds together. All whites together. 1 black to the light stays by itself. The other blacks splice and pigtail.

 

[nehog]

Like this:

 

[n8n]

^that. but pull 12/3 for the switch legs as current code requires a neutral be present at the switch even if not used.

 

[Wirepuller]

If all areas are accessible utilizing 3 wire and switch legs is a waste and completely unnecessary.

 

[DC73]

12/2 from Panel to first switch. 12/2 from first switch to second switch. 12/2 from switch one to light one. 12/2 from switch two to light two. In the switch box you will have a feed in feed out and load to the light. All grounds together. All whites together. 1 black to the light stays by itself. The other blacks splice and pigtail.

Agreed. This would be my approach.

DC

 

[robertwhite]

12/2 from Panel to first switch. 12/2 from first switch to second switch. 12/2 from switch one to light one. 12/2 from switch two to light two. In the switch box you will have a feed in feed out and load to the light. All grounds together. All whites together. 1 black to the light stays by itself. The other blacks splice and pigtail.

So if I understand this correctly, this set up is doing the same thing as would be done if the switches were in the same gang box, (pulling power, then splitting to each switch) just at a longer distance, yes?

 

[Wirepuller]

Pretty much.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Go from the panel to switch 1 with your 12/2, on your switch you will have a plug in lug and a push in {std on most 20a switches}, L1 will go into the puch in of the switch, then run the 12/2 to the light that switch operates. Now also run a 12/2 from that box {use the screw lug} to the switch box for light 2... Easy enough, you are using switch 1 as a junction box for switch 2.

Switch 1 switches light one but the hot side of the switch also feeds switch 2. You can use a larger box for this and use wire nuts, but for something like this the push in connector is how I would do it, I hate using them but I also hate a bunch of wire nuts everywhere...

dont use the backwire push in backstabs. Horrible idea. They WILL fail and stab u in the back!(pun intended) Use a wire nut and pig tails!

 

[alfredeneuman]

The backwire hole itself physically will not accept a #12

It's marked on each device "#14 solid wire only"

 

[robertwhite]

No sweat, I never use backwire holes, always caps & tails.

Thanks

 

[LXCam]

^that. but pull 12/3 for the switch legs as current code requires a neutral be present at the switch even if not used.

Say what?. Granted I don't even remotely stay up with resi code, but please site that code section, I got to see this with my own eyes. Thanks

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Say what?. Granted I don't even remotely stay up with resi code, but please site that code section, I got to see this with my own eyes. Thanks

I will look it up for u tomorrow!

 

[Beemer533]

Say what?. Granted I don't even remotely stay up with resi code, but please site that code section, I got to see this with my own eyes. Thanks

I believe it is Article 404.2 (c), starting in 2011 NEC..

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I believe it is Article 404.2 (c), starting in 2011 NEC..

Awww ya beat me to it. Just found it and was gonna post it.

 

[Beemer533]

Sorry, I could delete my post if you want

 

[djnigel]

frist of i am a electrician and i would run a 14-2 hr to the 1st switch and run a 14-3 to the other and then a 14-2 to the lights if you need help wiring the switches let me know

 

[Speedy Petey]

frist of i am a electrician and i would run a 14-2 hr to the 1st switch and run a 14-3 to the other and then a 14-2 to the lights if you need help wiring the switches let me know

Again ,with the wall open there is NO need for 3-wire.

Though I would also use #14 on a 15A. Absolutely NO reason for #12 for this circuit.