Modify garage door track to open tighter to ceiling?

[kamlung]

I have a lift on this side of the garage and I am trying to maximize the height available with the garage door open. i can never open the door if I'm working on a car or my wife's SUV... i don't think i need a hi lift conversion since there is currently only 12" of headroom and I'm just trying to steal 3-7" of space... i thought i read somewhere that minimum headroom is 5"? i plan to convert to a jackshaft (side mounted) opener so i can get rid of the center track on the current opener.

is this possible and something that can be done relatively cheaply? (i.e. moving the torsion spring up, extend the vertical tracks and maybe a new hinge on the top panel?)

or am i wasting my time for a few inches? (that's what she said)...

 

[RunninOnEmpty]

You will definitely need low-headroom brackets, either switching to a double track setup or using something like Super Sneaky which is mostly a dual track bracket just without the dual track part. Super Sneaky brackets work fine IF you always have the opener connected. If you were to disconnect the opener, the top panel of your door wouldn't stay shut tightly with Super Sneaky.

I don't have the SS bracket but I have turned dual-track brackets into the same thing by grinding off the rear bearings.

I've raised door tracks with extension springs before and I found it easy. I don't know if torsion springs add any difficulty to the job. Maybe others will reply with that sort of experience.

Your current setup barely has enough headroom without the special brackets. You might be able to steal an inch or two with the standard ones but beyond that is a no go.

 

[kamlung]

I looked at the super sneaky but it doesn't look like it will work on jackshaft side opener since there is no center rail to keep the top panel shut?

 

[RunninOnEmpty]

You know, honestly I'm not sure if the side opener is going to apply pressure to the top panel and keep it in place. I would have assumed that it would, but now that you've asked... hmm. Not 100% sure.

That said you might gain like 3" of space after doing that.

I had about 8" of headroom for the ceiling itself, bottom of track was about 3" from ceiling and it was not even CLOSE to working without the double track / Super Sneaky bracket. AND I actually dented the top of the door in a little bit where the center track was just because it was STILL not quite clearing.

Not even these worked for me: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F1I6K2/?tag=atomicindus08-20... Though you could try these to gain maybe an extra inch over what the current brackets provide.

 

[chops101]

You may want a taller radius .
I just ordered two new Clopay doors, and am having them sent with 15" radius tracks (norm is 12")
This is not considered the Hi lift track either, just a taller radius track for higher ceilings.

 

[Falfire122]

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE...hRg4ZTXo/RK=0/RS=IB0HOKjW0EZ7DjqeNjBidVR.J.8- I used one of these kits. 3" and 6" available. Worked great and very inexpensive.

 

[Falfire122]

I had to contact Martin garage doors directly. Not a lot of info online. I can dig through my email and see what I paid.

 

[kamlung]

You may want a taller radius .
I just ordered two new Clopay doors, and am having them sent with 15" radius tracks (norm is 12")
This is not considered the Hi lift track either, just a taller radius track for higher ceilings.

i'll measure my radius tonight but I think you are right, i'm at 12"... at 15" bend can pull it 3" higher...

I had to contact Martin garage doors directly. Not a lot of info online. I can dig through my email and see what I paid.

i'd really appreciate that... in a pinch, can I just cut a piece off the back of the track and then stick it on the bottom?

 

[1940_dodge]

i'll measure my radius tonight but I think you are right, i'm at 12"... at 15" bend can pull it 3" higher...



i'd really appreciate that... in a pinch, can I just cut a piece off the back of the track and then stick it on the bottom?

I think then you'd have to lengthen the chain that opens the door or modify some other parts.

 

[kamlung]

hmm, move the torsion bar up... then cable on the drum needs to be longer I think?

 

[FFRKing]

I raised my garage door tracks so that the door would follow the slope of the ceiling since I have scissor trusses. The radius portion of my track was already very close to the ceiling and all I did was trim the leading edge of the radius and shorten the angle bracket that extends to the wall. This allowed me to raise the back end of the track up closer to the ceiling. I didn't raise the radius end at all, but raised the back end about 18". I did increase the tension on my springs about 1/2 turn to compensate the added weight of the door when it is up.
This may not be ideal for your situation since you have a flat ceiling, but probably would allow you the extra clearance where you need it.

Chris

You can see in the picture that the first door has been modified but the second one has not. They are both done now.

 

[sanddan]

ffrking,
My garage door guy did the same thing to my shop door so the door opener would clear a car on the lift. He raised the end at least 3' and did have to adjust the springs. It does put more load on the torsion springs and he said I might need to replace them with bigger ones at some point but I still think it's a great solution.

 

[upndown]

hmm, move the torsion bar up... then cable on the drum needs to be longer I think?

Correct. Also depending on how much it's raised, you may need drums for an 8' high door as well. Then you need to careful of the spring tension or you'll have slack in the cables in the open position. Not good with a side mount opener.
Are you sure you're going gain what you want after going thru all this work and expense?

 

[carbonm]

I raised my garage door tracks so that the door would follow the slope of the ceiling since I have scissor trusses. The radius portion of my track was already very close to the ceiling and all I did was trim the leading edge of the radius and shorten the angle bracket that extends to the wall. This allowed me to raise the back end of the track up closer to the ceiling. I didn't raise the radius end at all, but raised the back end about 18". I did increase the tension on my springs about 1/2 turn to compensate the added weight of the door when it is up.
This may not be ideal for your situation since you have a flat ceiling, but probably would allow you the extra clearance where you need it.

Chris

You can see in the picture that the first door has been modified but the second one has not. They are both done now.

Did you have to get new parts to do this or just cut a V in the existing track to allow for a sharper angle to raise than the 90 degree? Also is there instructions anywhere on how to modify the tension on the spring? Assuming this is a DIY type thing.

 

[mmb617]

in a pinch, can I just cut a piece off the back of the track and then stick it on the bottom?

I can't think of a reason this wouldn't work for you.

I took a standard track and modified it to make a semi-high lift out of it by cutting off the back then mitering and welding the piece in between the vertical track and the radius.





In my case because the change was a couple feet I had to get new springs, cables and drums, but for a couple inches I'll bet your cable will still be long enough and all you'd need might be a little more tension on the spring after moving the torsion bar up a tad.

I'm using a jackshaft opener now and everything works the way it should.

 

[ebfabman]

This thread may be helpful to some people.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Most door companies offer several radius tracks. All use standard drums but cable length does differ. Clopay offers 10, 12, 15, 20 and 32" on their residential doors. This allows you to use conventional trolley opener but you have to extend the arm on the 20 & 32".

 

[ebfabman]

Most door companies offer several radius tracks. All use standard drums but cable length does differ. Clopay offers 10, 12, 15, 20 and 32" on their residential doors. This allows you to use conventional trolley opener but you have to extend the arm on the 20 & 32".

Like you suggested on another thread, best done with torsion bar/spring set up.