2 Degree Slope - Jackstands
- Thread starter icor1031
- Start date
So ~1/2" deviation per the contact points per stand, ~3" between the stands. That is pretty minor, but as you increase the height of the stand, you increase your chances for problems in tip over, sliding and breaking the stand. Did you read the other thread in its entirety?
RECox286
Well-known member
Good question ! If you lift your vehicle on a slope
even putting the low end slightly higher to level the
vehicle, the Jack Stands will still be off kilter. Maybe
a solution is to level out the bottom of the stands with
a wedged furring that the whole stand (all four) would
sit on. At least that would make the stands perpendicular
to level. Just a thought...wouldn't want to say yea to an
idea that may be less than safe. When the vehicle is in the
air, try a violent shaking to see what happens. Stand up hill
or off to the side when doing this. (Please)
Uncle Bob
Side note: I sometimes use 6X6x24" to block up a vehicle if there
is no solid pavement for a footing. I never go more than 12" up
with that sort of blocking under the tires. I like breathing too much.
even putting the low end slightly higher to level the
vehicle, the Jack Stands will still be off kilter. Maybe
a solution is to level out the bottom of the stands with
a wedged furring that the whole stand (all four) would
sit on. At least that would make the stands perpendicular
to level. Just a thought...wouldn't want to say yea to an
idea that may be less than safe. When the vehicle is in the
air, try a violent shaking to see what happens. Stand up hill
or off to the side when doing this. (Please)
Uncle Bob
Side note: I sometimes use 6X6x24" to block up a vehicle if there
is no solid pavement for a footing. I never go more than 12" up
with that sort of blocking under the tires. I like breathing too much.
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I did..
Is there anything I can put under the car (only lifting one end) that would safely catch it, if it fell?
cdestuck
Well-known member
Hold the stand plumb and measure the gap between the stand legs and the drive. Get a piece of hardwood or steel to put under the legs to keep it plumb.
When I jack up a car on somewhat unstable ground (side of road, etc) I side the tires under the car to catch it if it fell.
If you aren't removing the wheels then putting ramps under the lifted tires works, even if you lifted with a jack.
Should I just support the car by the front tires instead of the subframe to begin with?
Although, I'm not sure what I'd put under the tires that's high enough to let me use a creeper?
I'm not going to second guess a set-up I've never seen, but if you're unsure, maybe just some regular ramps would work for you. BTW----I made my own out of solid layers of 2 x 12 staggered and beveled and glued up. You could drive a semi on them without fear because they're.....well......SOLID! :S
I have regular ramps, but I don't think they're high enough to use with a creeper?
This is what I have right now. When I get a better floor jack (lifting height), I can put the good jacks under the subframe instead of the wimpy 2tons (they are currently bearing the load entirely. My comment earlier about 6ton was after I get the new jack.)
The floor jacks and 6 ton jackstands are here for backup.
Seems pricey. You can build some tailored to the height you need for just a few bucks:
How did you get the vehicle so high? It looks like my tires sag about 4" when I jack up the car. Not many jacks go over ~20", and (again, my car) the seam is about 9" from the ground.
That means I can lift the car 11" from where the tires are, but I only get about 7" because of sag. Did you use a separate jack to press the suspension up?
As one guy, i forgot his username said (the engineer) the uneven surface causes stresst on the sides of the jack. The jack supports could support x tons vertical, perpindicular to the ground, but nowhere near as much when you shift the angle of the jack. Just proceed with caution.
Yeah, I'd like to do something safer. I'm thinking about a solid (not stacking) 12" version of what the gent above me has, and torsion box style with stronger wood.
But I'm not sure how to get the vehicle up and onto it
.OP . . . . . why haven't you blocked the rear wheels both sides ???
Is Parking Brake set ??
Drive-on ramps (ie steel or plastic) would work fine on driveway slope. Once up on ramp, then block behind those front tires also.
* * * * * OR * * * * *
To determine angle, you could hold Level vertical along with T-bevel/Angle Finder and cut some pieces of wood in wedge shape to put under your jack stands.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_466699-5600...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
Is Parking Brake set ??
Drive-on ramps (ie steel or plastic) would work fine on driveway slope. Once up on ramp, then block behind those front tires also.
* * * * * OR * * * * *
To determine angle, you could hold Level vertical along with T-bevel/Angle Finder and cut some pieces of wood in wedge shape to put under your jack stands.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_466699-5600...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
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I blocked the rear of the back tires, with wheel chocks and (after that photo) a cinder block behind the wheel chock. I didn't realize I should chock the front of the rear tires, thank you!
The hand brake is set, and the vehicle is in "park." (auto trans.)
I found the angle with a 48" level and a calculator, and compared it to my phone's sensor (2 degrees vs 2.4 degrees.)
Also, I couldn't find a ramp that's high enough for me..
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Put your jack under the lower control arm or rear axle. No sag and you don't need a separate jack.
(BTW, pic is not my car)
Thanks! I'm still very much a noob to cars. ( I'll have to look up the parts you mentioned
) And unfortunately, my first time really under a car is becoming a nightmare. I planned to just replace my starter and make my cooling fan work.After powering the cooling fan directly (it worked) and testing a relay that wasn't creating a circuit where it should after closing its gate, I think one issue is solved.
But my terror began with the starter: It tested fine at autozone, so I had to check the flexplate (I'm surprised that everyone there calls it a flywheel.) To do that, I had to remove the spark plugs - and my brother put them in without anti seize, 6+ years ago. (I drive about 2k miles per year, and I knew it would probably strip when it came out - so I haven't been checking them as maintenance.)
Well, one of them is now stripped - despite me using penetrating oil over night, and starting it by tightening slightly. I also tapped it with a mallet a few times, worked it back and forth and then waited, etc.. I have to get the head fixed, now - which means removing it.
(I don't trust the repair with head on block.)
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Zeke
Well-known member
I would place a strip of angle iron under the stand on the low side to make it vertical. I work on a slight slope too. I can't tell you what it is in degrees but water definitely runs off. I've never leveled my stands.
A 3º slope will rise three feet for every 90 horizontal feet. Hard to know that's not flat or close.
A 3º slope will rise three feet for every 90 horizontal feet. Hard to know that's not flat or close.
Well, one of them is now stripped - despite me using penetrating oil over night, and starting it by tightening slightly. I also tapped it with a mallet a few times, worked it back and forth and then waited, etc.. I have to get the head fixed, now - which means removing it.
Unless the plug is all the way at the back where you can't reach it well, I'd recommend not removing the head and doing it on the car.
What kind of car?
Zrexxer
Well-known member
Doing the math, a 2 degree slope puts a 16" high jack stand out of plumb about 1/2" at the top. Considering the width of the base on those stands, I don't think this would ever concern me in the least.
Xporter
Well-known member
Another vote for cribbing, you can even put under a flat part of the frame rail, these tings are solid. You can make however tall you want too.
Here's mine:
Here's mine:
48RON54
Well-known member
The slope on my driveway is considerably worse than that and I have been using jackstands for years on it.
Just jack up the vehicle and make sure it is stable. Some sense of self preservation should take you the rest of the way through the job.
Just jack up the vehicle and make sure it is stable. Some sense of self preservation should take you the rest of the way through the job.
It's a sunfire, easy access. I've read multiple people mention that if any debris is left, it can damage the engine?
My neighbor does his repairs on the driveway, we have like a pretty steep 7-8% I'm guessing. But he's a mechanic and really brave I guess, his driveway has quite a bit of oil spill.
I have never tried to jack the car on the driveway, seems like it would roll away if you are jacking the non hand brake'd axles
I do my repairs if garage is not available, on the street with a traffic cone (now they have ones that flashes with LED inside)
I have never tried to jack the car on the driveway, seems like it would roll away if you are jacking the non hand brake'd axles
I do my repairs if garage is not available, on the street with a traffic cone (now they have ones that flashes with LED inside)
02camaro86
Well-known member
Well I'm only a physics student and mechanic, and am now an expert. It theoretically sounds decent, too lift it, use a jack to lift a corner then slide a jack stand under it, put the wood under, remove the stand, then lower the jack slowly. So put it on stands for a min. then slide the wood under and release. But please proceed with caution.Yeah, I'd like to do something safer. I'm thinking about a solid (not stacking) 12" version of what the gent above me has, and torsion box style with stronger wood.
But I'm not sure how to get the vehicle up and onto it
600SL
Well-known member
With a slope the higher the jack stand is set the closer the saddle gets to the back of the jack.
In this case, the horizontal distance between the center and back edge of the jack defines the stability of the setup. A higher rated jack stand like a 10 ton will have a wider base and therefore will be able to support reduced weights at similar levels of stability as smaller jack stands.
So one option is to just use larger jack stands.
Another option is to weld a 1/2" piece of bar stock to the rear legs of the jack stand.
In this case, the horizontal distance between the center and back edge of the jack defines the stability of the setup. A higher rated jack stand like a 10 ton will have a wider base and therefore will be able to support reduced weights at similar levels of stability as smaller jack stands.
So one option is to just use larger jack stands.
Another option is to weld a 1/2" piece of bar stock to the rear legs of the jack stand.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
My friend has a pretty good slope to his driveway. He cut down two legs and beveled all four to correspond with the slope. His jackstands are all plumb when on the slope.
Tommy
Tommy
Here's my shop-built solid ramps I've mentioned previously. 2 x 12's laminated (in other words----solid stacked pile of 2 x 12's) and faced on the sides with MDO plywood just for looks (I'm a signpainter) and flush-trimmed with a pattern bit in a router. The leading edge of each step is beveled just to make things a bit easier on the tires. Each 'landing' or flat area is long enough that I can stop at any step without the vehicle having a tendancy to want to roll downhill (they're level---it won't roll backwards.) Why mess around with 'torsion box construction'? When I have a vehicle about me, I don't care how much my ramps weigh----make it as strong as possible. Make it solid like this.
A longer top section with a bumper/stop at the end would be a nice addition, but so far, being careful and counting the bumps and checking progress has kept me from driving off the end.
After it's up, I block the rear wheels, just to be safe. They ARE heavy, but I know they won't collapse, no matter what I put on them and they're high enough to let me get under the vehicle comfortably.
A longer top section with a bumper/stop at the end would be a nice addition, but so far, being careful and counting the bumps and checking progress has kept me from driving off the end.
After it's up, I block the rear wheels, just to be safe. They ARE heavy, but I know they won't collapse, no matter what I put on them and they're high enough to let me get under the vehicle comfortably.
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saceone
Well-known member
this.
car falling on me is my worst fear.
my car spent the winter on ESCO jackstands, everytime I would have to crawl under it I would put the wheels under the car , just in case
finn
Well-known member
Get jack stands with a larger base if you must use them on a sloped driveway, especially if the surface is relatively soft like hot asphalt would be. The small jack stands in the picture are relatively unstable even on level, hard surfaces.
The larger stands are cheap. I never use the small stands after buying the large base stands. I value my life, I guess.
The larger stands are cheap. I never use the small stands after buying the large base stands. I value my life, I guess.
icenfire01
Well-known member
Are you lifting all four corners of the vehicle? If not and you are only lifting the front then the only thing you need to worry about it the rear tires rolling backward so that's where I would focus on. I would look at wheel chocks that hug each side of the tire so there will be no chance of the vehicle "pushing" the chocks backward.
y'sguy
Well-known member
Consider a helicoil insert or nutsert? to repair the head and you may not have to remove it.