Compressor after cooler help

[Logoman]

I have a Quincy Q-10 Compressor that is about 20 yrs old so of courtesy don't make it anymore and parts are few and far between. The Cooler ( which is a copper coil wrapped around the shaft in front of the pulley fan) broke completely in two pieces. I can't get the pulley off to have a coil made to replace it so I got a 12' copper line and ran it from one side of the compressor to the other, like a hoop. Any ideas whether this will keep it cool or not?

 

[Pstychologist]

Got an IR thermometer? Take a reading and see how much the temp changes from one port to the other. You could include a water bath for your long route, since it looks like it gets near the floor.

 

[akdiesel]

To answer your question...No. I did the same thing on mine to see how it would get and I could not touch the piping befor it entered the tank.
I just installed a Hayden 1260 cooler on my Curtis compressor. It was about $150 but depending on your compressor piping you could opt for the 1240 which has 1/2" npt fittings.
From 0 psi to 150 psi the start of the cooler was about 350 deg f and the end was about 100 deg f with a single fan for cooling.

 

[Ferrino]

To answer your question...No. I did the same thing on mine to see how it would get and I could not touch the piping befor it entered the tank.
I just installed a Hayden 1260 cooler on my Curtis compressor. It was about $150 but depending on your compressor piping you could opt for the 1240 which has 1/2" npt fittings.
From 0 psi to 150 psi the start of the cooler was about 350 deg f and the end was about 100 deg f with a single fan for cooling.

Do you have any pics of this Hayden cooler on your compressor, please?

I am looking to install an aftercooler so I can help eliminate moisture for painting. I prefer the more compact aftercooler setup to an elaborate network of metal piping in my garage. Do you think that, with an aftercooler like the Hayden 1240, followed by a separator just before the tank, I would not need any metal piping after the tank? I would just go from the tank to a regulator/filter with a rubber hose and then have a coalescing filter before my hose reel. That would be my goal - avoiding tons of metal pipes.

Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread.

 

[akdiesel]

Ferrino

Here is my set up. Still in works to finalize the look of it, but it is functional.

[/URL][/IMG]

Here is the write up I did on it. Scroll down to #133 and you will see the start of it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171590&page=7

 

[600SL]

I have a Quincy Q-10 Compressor that is about 20 yrs old so of courtesy don't make it anymore and parts are few and far between. The Cooler ( which is a copper coil wrapped around the shaft in front of the pulley fan) broke completely in two pieces. I can't get the pulley off to have a coil made to replace it so I got a 12' copper line and ran it from one side of the compressor to the other, like a hoop. Any ideas whether this will keep it cool or not?

Not sure if you need to get the pulley off to replace it. I believe they can be flexed around it. Also a Quincy my not be available put I would think a similar unit may still be available. and adaptable.

Possibly this one:

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/tf-copper-intercooler-tf002001bh-p-18118.html

 

[J Persons]

Ferrino

Here is my set up. Still in works to finalize the look of it, but it is functional.

[/URL][/IMG]

Here is the write up I did on it. Scroll down to #133 and you will see the start of it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171590&page=7

Thanks for the link on the Hayden cooler. I plan on using a single 120V gable vent fan with a built-in thermostat instead of the 12V automotive fans. I have one now that vents my compressor room and it seems to move a lot of air.

 

[600SL]

Ferrino

Here is my set up. Still in works to finalize the look of it, but it is functional.

[/URL][/IMG]

Here is the write up I did on it. Scroll down to #133 and you will see the start of it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171590&page=7

That excellent. And thanks for posting the temp measurements on the link. Great installation and write up.

 

[chrispyny]

Ferrino

Here is my set up. Still in works to finalize the look of it, but it is functional.

[/URL][/IMG]

Here is the write up I did on it. Scroll down to #133 and you will see the start of it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171590&page=7

Sent you a pm, how do you plan at getting 13.3 amps of 12v d/c for a total of 160 watts to those motors? Cause if you have a good way, i am in!

Here is my set up, air hose is up, compressor under power, just trying to figure out the best plumbing. I have 40' of hot water finned baseboard and just need to engineer how to best plumb it in and to my hose reel, then to my sand blaster 20 feet away.

I was going to run it along my ibeam and tap off for reel, then over to blaster, but i'd rather loop it around in a 3 square foor area immediatley above the compressor and install a fan like yours, then run simple pipe to reel and blaster. Kinda just wondering where you will get all that 12v dc juice?

 

[pcmeiners]

One issue here Logoman...
You are referring to your compressor's INTER-COOLER, not an after-cooler. Intercoolers lower the air temperature between compressor stages, not the compressor output. Yes you can place a Hayden in place of your broken intercooler BUT if you place a large cooler, it will cause water to drop out, something you do not want to "slug" to your second stage, you will end up with major repairs. Generally 2 stage compressors have a small surface area inter-cooler to lower the air temperature somewhat to increase the efficiency of the compressor, but they do not design it to cause the temp to drop to a point where water condenses and drops out. Hayden does not make a high volume cooler small enough, closest is the 1231, which is one more tube then I would use...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-Auto...New-/221625007731?hash=item3399e13e73&vxp=mtr

Probably the best bet/safest is to get a small piece of slant fin radiator tube approx the length of the broken inter-cooler and plumb it in. If much larger then the broken inter-cooler you would need water traps. A little smaller or bigger should not be an issue.


If you place a large Hayden, you will need water traps such as the system on my inter-cooled compressor , basically two auto drain water traps (second in case first failure). During humid weather water flows from the auto drains.....

http://s852.photobucket.com/user/pcmeiners/media/DSC_00640001.jpg.html

 

[Ferrino]

Thanks for the info! How are you planning to switch power to your fans? Are you controlling them manually or will you synch them with the compressor? Or maybe even a thermostatic switch in the cooler?

Ferrino

Here is my set up. Still in works to finalize the look of it, but it is functional.

[/URL][/IMG]

Here is the write up I did on it. Scroll down to #133 and you will see the start of it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171590&page=7

 

[akdiesel]

Thanks for the info! How are you planning to switch power to your fans? Are you controlling them manually or will you synch them with the compressor? Or maybe even a thermostatic switch in the cooler?

Ferrino

Thanks. The answer is yes to all. I am currently using a low voltage plug to power them simply to see how they work.
I am working on finding a power supply switch by the compressor or I may have to wire in a thermostat.

I will add as pcmeiners said a smaller inlet piping for a cooler is better than a larger opening, but the way these Hayden coolers work does not matter if you use the same size pipe coming off of the compressor. The cooler I am using cooled the temps down from 350 to 100 wth two fans on low speed. I say low speed because the power source is not at the fans potential.

 

[Pstychologist]

Could you partner a 10A battery charger with each of the electric motors and power them off of the compressor's motor voltage line after the contactor?

 

[600SL]

Fans are available in 120V and 240V. With under 0.5 amps draw for both they could just be connected in parallel with the motor.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-equipment-cooling-fans/=wjjkjd

 

[chrispyny]

Fans are available in 120V and 240V. With under 0.5 amps draw for both they could just be connected in parallel with the motor.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-equipment-cooling-fans/=wjjkjd

When you start adding up costs, it's more sense to buy a harbor freight air dryer. I read the whole thing is built very well. It even has honeywell controls. I know, a quality tool from harbor freight? But it's possible. And its only $430 bucks. Use a 20% off coupon and get it cheap. The reviews are great.

 

[72Anthony]

Note that the Harbor Freight dryer has a maximum pressure of 140 psi and maximum temperature of 175F. If you are installing it between the pump and tank, an afterccoler will be needed.

 

[Ferrino]

Good point about the refrigerated dryers requiring somewhat cooled intake air. An aftercooler can only help your system, even if you do end up requiring a refrigerated dryer.

I was wondering where I can find compression fittings to connect the copper pipe to the aftercooler and the compressor/tank. Is this something I can get at Home Depot?

 

[rsanter]

the old school way to remove moisture for painting was to put a coil of copper into a bucket that you fill with ice. it will cause the moisture to drop out and give you very dry air

bob

 

[akdiesel]

Could you partner a 10A battery charger with each of the electric motors and power them off of the compressor's motor voltage line after the contactor?

I suppose that may work.
I did some internet research and found temperature switch to be a great choice for power switching them off and on when needed automatically.
I found an inexpensive paid temp switch and a relay for 110v to 12v. It is adjustable to turn on and off for the temps you choose. Difficulty was to find one that could work in the 400 deg f range. Most smaller and cheaper ones only go to about 195 deg f. The k model probe will work in that range also.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVWYI8G/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Lots of people are using this system to control their brewing stations.

 

[akdiesel]

Good point about the refrigerated dryers requiring somewhat cooled intake air. An aftercooler can only help your system, even if you do end up requiring a refrigerated dryer.

I was wondering where I can find compression fittings to connect the copper pipe to the aftercooler and the compressor/tank. Is this something I can get at Home Depot?

Sharkbite is a brand I believe they sell. Also Swagelok makes brass compression fittings for less then their stainless. Lots of them on eBay.

 

[Ferrino]

Thanks! I've picked up the B&M transmission cooler and am now trying to decide on a fan - 12V vs 110V. Can you just hook up a 110V fan to the pressure switch on the compressor?

 

[akdiesel]

Thanks! I've picked up the B&M transmission cooler and am now trying to decide on a fan - 12V vs 110V. Can you just hook up a 110V fan to the pressure switch on the compressor?

That would be too easy. I was hoping for that same thing but I checked my pressure switch power and it not only was 220v but it was only powered when switched off. In other words no power to the switch when the compressor is running.

 

[Ferrino]

That would be too easy. I was hoping for that same thing but I checked my pressure switch power and it not only was 220v but it was only powered when switched off. In other words no power to the switch when the compressor is running.

Thanks. Seems like a bunch of hassle to get 12VDC fans running. Think I am just going to go for a low-current 220v fan and piggyback onto the 220v compressor motor.

 

[J Persons]

Thanks! I've picked up the B&M transmission cooler and am now trying to decide on a fan - 12V vs 110V. Can you just hook up a 110V fan to the pressure switch on the compressor?

Watch that B&M transmission cooler, I don't think they are rated for the air pressure you will see with an air compressor.

 

[CGT80]

That would be too easy. I was hoping for that same thing but I checked my pressure switch power and it not only was 220v but it was only powered when switched off. In other words no power to the switch when the compressor is running.

That seems very odd. Is it a common pressure switch that switches the power in, on it's way to the motor. Mine is a simple setup and the line in is hot all of the time (when the circuit to the compressor is switched on from inside the garage) and then when the pressure gets low the contacts close and the motor gets power.

Mine has two 120v hot legs into the switch which gives 240v. You could use one hot leg to power a fan, but the load would not be balanced on the switch and you would need a neutral or ground (if they are bonded in the panel). It isn't proper to use the ground wire as a neutral, but not everyone follows the rules.

Thanks. Seems like a bunch of hassle to get 12VDC fans running. Think I am just going to go for a low-current 220v fan and piggyback onto the 220v compressor motor.

This is how I would go about it. I did the same when I setup my TIG cooler. It wasn't hard to find a 220v fan.

I bought a fan for an aftercooler, but never bought the B&M cooler. The fan might be 120v, IIRC. That compressor gave up so I need to replace it first. Right now a 5hp SB 80 gal is my first choice.

The thought of putting a homemade cooler on a $2500 compressor seems odd, but then again, they get around $600 for their aftercooler.

 

[Ferrino]

I cracked and bought a 230VAC fan from McMaster-Carr for $80. It is the one recommended by a couple of others on the forum: part number 19155K99 LINK HERE. It has a current draw rating of 0.14 amps. I presume that it would be wise to place an in-line fuse just before the fan? I was planning to simply tap into the power that goes from the pressure switch to the compressor motor. Thanks!