garage/shop -- 32x60 or 34x58 or 36x54?

[johndoe123123]

EDIT: I can't change the title but the 36 would be 36x54

I am building a 16' tall pole barn. My objective is to store an RV (28' toy hauler), have a place to wrench on my Jeep, maybe store a jon boat, and have a general man cave.

It will have a 16x12 and 12x14 garage door on the skinny side.

I've come down to these three sizes -- and they are all base on a total square footage maximum limitation.

Can you provide any guidance on any reasons to sway me one way vs another?

32x60 or 34x58 or 36x54

This is a picture of an almost identical shop built by this builder, including the same size doors.

 

[redsand187]

Re: garage/shop -- 32x60 or 34x58 or 36x56?

Go with more width as it doesn't appear you need the length. This way your stalls are wider allowing more room to walk around/work. You're depth is good for your purpose so a few extra feet in length probably won't make a difference, but width will be felt.... ask your wife for confirmation.

 

[johndoe123123]

Re: garage/shop -- 32x60 or 34x58 or 36x56?

Go with more width as it doesn't appear you need the length. This way your stalls are wider allowing more room to walk around/work. You're depth is good for your purpose so a few extra feet in length probably won't make a difference, but width will be felt.... ask your wife for confirmation.

Not married, sorry . You think I could build this if I was?

Would either of these get me 3 usable stalls? Or am I pretty much stuck with two usable stalls anyways?

My goal for the length was to be able to back pickup + rv in, but honestly, I can just unhook the damn thing.

I would also like to put a two post lift in someday. I have no clue where to put it though, it will get in the way no matter what I do.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is the title correct now ?



I'd go with the larger 36x54 if it looks good on your lot or you're allowed if you have any local codes.

If you plan on putting the overhang down the entire side. It'll allow you a place to hang out, outside in the ran and more parking somewhat out of the weather. Also going with a 16' side wall,you can easily put in a loft for storage too.

 

[cabin fever]

I'm a little different, but I'd go with the longest you can do. If RV's are anything like boats, you will eventually end up with a longer one. 32 wide is still plenty wide enough to have something parked next to it easy.

 

[INTMD8]

Re: garage/shop -- 32x60 or 34x58 or 36x56?

Go with more width as it doesn't appear you need the length. This way your stalls are wider allowing more room to walk around/work. You're depth is good for your purpose so a few extra feet in length probably won't make a difference, but width will be felt.... ask your wife for confirmation.

Agreed!

Personally I would go even wider/more square if possible but not sure what your minimum depth requirement is.

 

[ryan77]

I'd do 32x64, as most pole barn go by 8 ft. on center segments, I like to be able to store 3 cars deep, or back a trailer in and leave it hitched to the truck, and be able to get any length rv in the future in with room to spare, plus narrow and long is cheaper to build I hear??

 

[johndoe123123]

Thoughts on the 34x58 as the compromise to not lose 4 feet on the rear?

Will I really miss 34 vs 36?

It's "big" for the lot, 1 acre with single store ranch in front. But, it's allowed, I'm sure the neighbors won't be the happiest campers but ohh well.

 

[johndoe123123]

I'd do 32x64, as most pole barn go by 8 ft. on center segments, I like to be able to store 3 cars deep, or back a trailer in and leave it hitched to the truck, and be able to get any length rv in the future in with room to spare, plus narrow and long is cheaper to build I hear??

I can't do 32x64 as square footage limit is 1968 by city code... the the leave RV hitched to truck is something under consideration.

I know the trusses are every 10 or 12 feet.

 

[Voi]

I can't do 32x64 as square footage limit is 1968 by city code... the the leave RV hitched to truck is something under consideration.

Can you make a non-rectangular building with the RV side going back further than the non-RV side? I personally would want to be able to leave the truck attached to the RV when feasible.

 

[johndoe123123]

Can you make a non-rectangular building with the RV side going back further than the non-RV side? I personally would want to be able to leave the truck attached to the RV when feasible.

I can, I don't know what that would do to cost.

The rv is a toy hauler... 28' but 32' bumper to bumper. Truck is 19' (ram 1500). Probably is 54' or so by the time you add everything.

It's close, but I'd have to think other combinations (fifth wheel, motorhome) would be shorter due to overhang. I don't think I'd want a longer tag pull.

12*60 (720)
+ 24*52 (1248)
Should be right at the limit

That would give 36' width with the RV side 60' and the other side 52'.

 

[Voi]

I can, I don't know what that would do to cost.

The rv is a toy hauler... 28' but 32' bumper to bumper. Truck is 19' (ram 1500). Probably is 54' or so by the time you add everything.

It's close, but I'd have to think other combinations (fifth wheel, motorhome) would be shorter due to overhang. I don't think I'd want a longer tag pull.

12*60 (720)
+ 24*52 (1248)
Should be right at the limit

That would give 36' width with the RV side 60' and the other side 52'.

It might be worthwhile to call and RV place and see if there is a parking area size that fits some of the larger combos. I know some states allow up to 65' or more total length but I think that's odd combos where the trailer is 30' or less and then there is a boat behind that. I highly doubt you or any future owner of your property is going to try to back that combo in.

But I do think future use and resale should be considered.

As far as cost, I wonder if keeping the dimensions to some multiple of 8' or whatever pole spacing would help? I think that saves money everywhere. Number of poles, length/waste of purulins, siding waste, etc.

 

[johndoe123123]

A triple tow combo really can't be backed at all for that matter through such a door and it's not pull-thru, so the boat would come off anyways.

It's going to hold any road legal RV right now. I guess the question is if it does it with the truck attached or not.

65' is max overall length here. It can be done with a good size fifth wheel and a long bed truck.

But also back to sematics, does 36' really give me a usable third bay compared to 34' or not really?

It might be worthwhile to call and RV place and see if there is a parking area size that fits some of the larger combos. I know some states allow up to 65' or more total length but I think that's odd combos where the trailer is 30' or less and then there is a boat behind that. I highly doubt you or any future owner of your property is going to try to back that combo in.

But I do think future use and resale should be considered.

As far as cost, I wonder if keeping the dimensions to some multiple of 8' or whatever pole spacing would help? I think that saves money everywhere. Number of poles, length/waste of purulins, siding waste, etc.

 

[ryan77]

look in to a variance, I had to, to go over the height restriction.

 

[finn]

Many "2 car" garages are 20-21' wide, so 34' should be ok for 3 abreast, as long as your trailer isn't too wide.

If you back the trailer all the way to the rear, that would help.

 

[sb7979]

I have a 36' wide, three bay. In my opinion that is the minimum width for 3 bays wide. 34' is too narrow for 3 bays, and too wide for 2 bays, so I would eliminate that option. 32' is also still a little wide for 2 bays, and definitely too narrow for 3 bays (comfortably). You need to decide if you want width or depth.

Also, I would design in increments of 3', that's what the steel siding comes in.

 

[gnpenning]

Stake out your lot with the dimensions you are thinking about and park your toys in that space. Use cardboard, rocks, cans what ever to show work bench, tools, etc. Walk around and think of your use. Leave your vehicles doors open. Leave it for a few days. carry coolers, tubs, bulky items around. Play with it.

You should see what will work best for you and feel comfortable with your choice before you start.

Make sure you putting the widest garage door you can and have plenty of highth. I never hear anyone complain about a door to big. I do see many that can't fit what they need inside because of too small of a door. The increase in cost of a larger door is small comparied to the cost of the structure. Why build it if you can't get what you want inside.

Being able to leave the rig hooked up when you get home late, or need to leave early is great.

 

[roscoe2000]

My garage is 32 wide, I have enough room to walk around two vehicles, if parked side by side. I would not work on either side of the vehicle in this configuration, just cause i know how easy for Murphy to make himself known.

 

[2story30x50]

Re: garage/shop -- 32x60 or 34x58 or 36x56?

Not married, sorry . You think I could build this if I was?

Would either of these get me 3 usable stalls? Or am I pretty much stuck with two usable stalls anyways?

My goal for the length was to be able to back pickup + rv in, but honestly, I can just unhook the damn thing.

I would also like to put a two post lift in someday. I have no clue where to put it though, it will get in the way no matter what I do.

I am married my wife supported it 100 % and my father in-law helped!

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 432673

I went with 32 x 56....I wish I was 2 or 4' deeper. I had lot constraints that made the decision for me.

Go big or go home. 36x56 gets my vote.

 

[johndoe123123]

View attachment 432673

I went with 32 x 56....I wish I was 2 or 4' deeper. I had lot constraints that made the decision for me.

Go big or go home. 36x56 gets my vote.

Of interest, yours is side-load. Mine will be opened from the narrow end.

 

[johndoe123123]

A 16wx12h and 12wx14h door is present. It's a lot of door (see first picture).

Stake out your lot with the dimensions you are thinking about and park your toys in that space. Use cardboard, rocks, cans what ever to show work bench, tools, etc. Walk around and think of your use. Leave your vehicles doors Leave it for a few days. carry coolers, tubs, bulky items around. Play with it.

You should see what will work best for you and feel comfortable with your choice before you start.

Make sure you putting the widest garage door you can and have plenty of highth. I never hear anyone complain about a door to big. I do see many that can't fit what they need inside because of too small of a door. The increase in cost of a larger door is small comparied to the cost of the structure. Why build it if you can't get what you want inside.

Being able to leave the rig hooked up when you get home late, or need to leave early is great.

 

[johndoe123123]

I guess I'm torn. I have to make a decision I can **** it up and do 36x54, I'll never get a trailer + tow vehicle attached but everything will fit and be 36' wide.

Otherwise with 34x58 I retain that extra 4' and have a realistic chance of sequeezing in the travel trailer with a tow rig still attached.

decisions decisions

 

[gnpenning]

It is until your backing your toy hauler in the dark with it raining or snowing.

Saw that in the first post. Depending on the width you choose you can go wider if you wanted to or not.

 

[johndoe123123]

It is until your backing your toy hauler in the dark with it raining or snowing.

Saw that in the first post. Depending on the width you choose you can go wider if you wanted to or not.

Decisions Decisions. Not sure what you mean though.

I don't even know if the truck will fit with toy hauler. 28' RV (32' bump to bump) + 20' pickup. Plus a foot on the hitch. I'm sure even a 58' building doesn't come with a 58' bay. Fuzzy math tells me it will be close.

This would be so much easier if I could get 36x60 and be done. But I can't. City of Boise, ID planning and zoning gets their way.

 

[kwb]

Finally a guy with a toy to tow instead of the typical low wall build.

Depth is good - I am 42 deep and my 27' snowmobile trailer eats up a lot more than you would think. My 28' boat used up even more.

Toys grow - both length and height. 14' high door is good 16' wide is better. Make for the one really big door and a second one that is a 10' wide 10' high.

Lift would be nice but I do too much other non-car stuff that the posts would be a royal PITA.

Don't plan on being hooked up and closing up the doors.

 

[johndoe123123]

Finally a guy with a toy to tow instead of the typical low wall build.

Depth is good - I am 42 deep and my 27' snowmobile trailer eats up a lot more than you would think. My 28' boat used up even more.

Toys grow - both length and height. 14' high door is good 16' wide is better. Make for the one really big door and a second one that is a 10' wide 10' high.

Lift would be nice but I do too much other non-car stuff that the posts would be a royal PITA.

Don't plan on being hooked up and closing up the doors.

I have the same problem with the lift. Nowhere to put the damn thing.

 

[John in OH]

When I built my shop, I found that I did not leave enough room between the garage door and the building's south sidewall. If your building is too narrow, you can not fully use the space between your parked vehicles and the sides of the building for things like work benches, storage racks, or even general storage of yard equipment or whatever. Moving the garage doors further from the building sidewalls give you more use of the sidewall space.

Perhaps you could arrange your garage doors so that the space between the doors and their adjacent sidewalls in not symmetric (as was done in the building photo). Maybe put 2' between one garage door and its adjacent sidewall and something like 6' between the other garage door and its adjacent sidewall. Then, at least, you would have usable space along one of the two sidewalls.

I guess I'm saying make it as wide as possible.

 

[YukonXL04]

Okay first off you need to hook up to your trailer and actually measure it. See what the overall length is.

Also there is no reason at 32ft wide you can't have the trailer, and 2 cars all parked side by side. People work on cars in a 20 ft wide. With 2 cars in there. Is it optimal, no but still do able.

But why not make one side 14ft x 60. And then the car side like 30x36 or up to your max sq footage.

 

[tarmy]

Of interest, yours is side-load. Mine will be opened from the narrow end.

I originally thought a deeper garage (for my needs) would be best. I went to the side entry once I figured out how everything would fit or layout best.

Go find a flat spot and park all your gear as some have suggested. Figure out how much working room around things you want...where all the toys should be...and the shop part and things like table saws, drill press and workbench want to be. Also think about wall storage...and windows if yera gonna have em.

Then you can figure out which door you want on which side...and where any man door should be.

I eventually figured out that I did not want to "stack"stuff, trailered or not, which is what converted me to the side access solution.

I opted for 2 16'x8' doors...I do which I went with 10' doors. We have a large snow load to factor in for structural issues. This ends up making the beam over the garage door essentially an 8 x 24 LVL.

I like the side access for my stuff...do the layout exercise...you will figure out you want it bigger than you think.
View attachment 432795

 

[finn]

Don't go with a side loader if you live in the snow belt and want a steel roof.

Cleanup after a roof snow shedding event is a bear.

 

[tarmy]

Don't go with a side loader if you live in the snow belt and want a steel roof.

Cleanup after a roof snow shedding event is a bear.

Good point...that is exactly why I went with comp shingles, a low voltage ice dam heating system and that tractor.

In reality, the snow removal issue that should be considered. I faced my doors south for a couple of reasons. To melt snow...but mostly so that I could leave the garage doors open in the evenings to let light in and the breeze when I tend to tinker in the shop.

The roofing systems should be considered as mentioned...door track clearance for lifts etc. I also beefed up my ceiling system to support the track I use for my overhead hoist that I use to lift the big stuff...

 

[johndoe123123]

Thank you.

Due to the RV, loading long wise will likely be required.

Finding space is going to be hard, it's all over-grown weeds/sage now without vehicle access until I push over a storage shed. I might use a parking lot somewhere though.

I originally thought a deeper garage (for my needs) would be best. I went to the side entry once I figured out how everything would fit or layout best.

Go find a flat spot and park all your gear as some have suggested. Figure out how much working room around things you want...where all the toys should be...and the shop part and things like table saws, drill press and workbench want to be. Also think about wall storage...and windows if yera gonna have em.

Then you can figure out which door you want on which side...and where any man door should be.

I eventually figured out that I did not want to "stack"stuff, trailered or not, which is what converted me to the side access solution.

I opted for 2 16'x8' doors...I do which I went with 10' doors. We have a large snow load to factor in for structural issues. This ends up making the beam over the garage door essentially an 8 x 24 LVL.

I like the side access for my stuff...do the layout exercise...you will figure out you want it bigger than you think.
View attachment 432795