Max Jax install - drilled hole in wrong position, now what?

[anaxagoras]

I guess the drill walked and I drilled one of the holes off by about 1/8" and can't get it to line up. I suppose I could get more anchors and just drill 2 new holes and shift it over. How safe would it be to ream out the hole on the baseplate of the max jax? I suppose I could get a file or a the next size up drill bit. I'm sure i'm not the first person to do this, what have others done?

EDIT: I fixed the issue with a file, only took about 10 minutes, wasn't bad at all... The first anchor lifted right up thought .

Edit2: I called Dannmar they suggest cutting out a section of my new garage's floor and repouring it... did I mention i already paid 2 grand to have the whole floor epoxied...

 

[Hot Rod Home]

we too are getting a Maxjax for our soon to be constructed garage. Call MaxJax and see what they have to say. From what I have read in their info, if you only drilled one hole off it may be easiest to move the jax stand and start over. Let us know as I am interested in how you get along with it.

 

[f150skidoo]

If it were my lift i would drill a larger hole in steel base and just go out and buy a fender washer for the concrete anchors bolt.

 

[Rt jam]

If it were my lift i would drill a larger hole in steel base and just go out and buy a fender washer for the concrete anchors bolt.

Or rat tail file it into an oval hold in the direction it needs to go.

For projects that require precision bolt hole drilling. I like to do the first one, as you did. Then slide the fixture into position. Fasten the first one and use the fixture to drill the remaining holes.

Similar practice to installing all hardware before tightening them up.

 

[killahog]

I guess the drill walked and I drilled one of the holes off by about 1/8" and can't get it to line up. I suppose I could get more anchors and just drill 2 new holes and shift it over. How safe would it be to ream out the hole on the baseplate of the max jax? I suppose I could get a file or a the next size up drill bit. I'm sure i'm not the first person to do this, what have others done?

I mistakenly drilled a 5/8 hole when I was supposed to drill a 3,4 when I was installing my 2 Post. The hole was also offset like yours. I found some concrete filler that claimed to set up harder than concrete. I mixed some up and let it set overnight so I could test it. After it hardened drilled a test hole in it and was satisfied , So the next day I filled the hole and when that hardened I drilled a 1/4 inch pilot hole for the 3/4 bit to follow. The the next hole went in perfectly. I have enough left over and will send it to you if you need it. Just let me know.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I'd oblong the hole of the base plate, trim it with a torch

 

[anaxagoras]

I opened the hole a little bit with a round file from harbor freight. worked perectly. Until i went to torque down the lift.... the first anchor pulled right up. It's funny in my old garage i didn't have any problems with the lift installation, I've had nothing but problems since the new garage was built.

 

[Jvvmusme]

Concrete filler and then epoxic anchors. Costly but safer.

 

[pepi]

Weld the hole closed and re drill.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Go with a larger anchor or contact Hilti to see if one of their epoxy anchor systems would work in the hole

 

[anaxagoras]

So I originally ordered epoxy anchors, but they require a depth of 6"+ of concrete. I specifically told the contractor who poured the slab that I wanted 6" depth... I should have measured it myself because it's only 5". So epoxy anchors are not an option.

I'll look at concrete filler, but honestly not sure how much i'd trust it.

 

[Todd.Brock]

If you want to sell your epoxy anchors, let me know. I need a set. The bad is probably 1/2" steel,? So a file is going to take some time to move and 1/8 inch. The factory anchor washers are prob. wide enough to cover that extra width. If it's not essential, move the lift forward a foot and re drill, but I don't think the 1/8" will present a problem

 

[Capt Chrysler]

Just went through the same thing. I used Tapcon A7. Set the anchors at 5 inches. I tested the hoist with a 2010 Cheby crew cab 4x4. No problems.


Capt. Chrysler

 

[38Chevy454]

Just oblong the hole in the base, you can do that with a file or other hand grinder.

 

[Moss]

If I was just using it for cars I'd use the epoxy at 5" especially if it's just the one hole.

 

[dmeadow]

So I originally ordered epoxy anchors, but they require a depth of 6"+ of concrete. I specifically told the contractor who poured the slab that I wanted 6" depth... I should have measured it myself because it's only 5". So epoxy anchors are not an option.

I'll look at concrete filler, but honestly not sure how much i'd trust it.

Your 5" holes are fine. Your concern should be that you have the minimum thickness prescribed by the lift manufacturer. The epoxy anchor manufacturer specifies 6" to get the specified strength, which is already several times what you need for a Maxjax.

I've got 5" holes with epoxy anchors and I'm not dead, yet! If you look at the specs for the mechanical anchors that Maxjax includes, you'll see they also require a thicker slab than the Maxjax does.

 

[Advan]

As mentioned, just slot the hole in the machine base. You'll be fine. If one of your anchors is just pulling out of the slab, back the nut off, pound it back down and try again. Also, don't use an impact on the anchor nuts, always use hand tools!

 

[AllenYo]

Agree. I would not move the floor anchors - just move the hole in the base plate some...much safer.