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Repurposing 220v Spa Pump Help

RLYoung

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Can you electricians here help me out?! I'm trying to repurpose a 220v spa/hot tub water pump. The motor itself has 4 wires coming off the back to the plug that normally connects to the "motherboard" of the spa. Red, black, white, green. See attached picture. I would like to wire this up to simply work off an on/off switch. My gut tells me that the high/low circuits may not be able to be powered on at the same time, but I'm unsure. I'd prefer not to trail and error when it comes to something that could easily zap me to death. What is the safest way to hook this up to a switch? High speed all the time is just fine.
 

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davidlee

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You are correct, you can not power high and low at the same time. If you wish just disconnect the wire to speed you don't want to use and cap or tape it off.

Check the data plate on the motor and be sure it is a 220v motor. Just because the spa was 220v doesn't necessarily make the pump motor 220v.
 
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LS6 Tommy

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Black is "High" Red is "Low". Green is ground and White is "L2". Out of curiosity, what do you want it to power?

Tommy
 

G_P

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You are correct, you can not power high and low at the same time. If you wish just disconnect the wire to speed you don't want to use and cap or tape it off.

Check the data plate on the motor and be sure it is a 220v motor. Just because the spa was 220v doesn't necessarily make the pump motor 220v.

^^this. The spa heater is 240v but the motor could easily be a 2 speed 120v model.
 

davidlee

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Be sure to check you color wire for high and low. I have see them used both ways, red high and red low. White is usually your common or neutral. Check to be sure.
 
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RLYoung

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I will most certainly be using it to pump water, just in a different application. I will get in there and dig out the pump and provide more info tonight. I'm certain theres a cryptic wiring diagram on the side. I'm looking at wiring for how actual pool pumps are hooked up and it seems to be what I need. But I'm still unsure and need my hand held haha.
 

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RLYoung

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Here's the pictures I was able to just capture.
 

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RLYoung

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And a quick Google search of pool pump wiring and pool pump timer wiring comes up with this. Thanks in advance for any help in designing this wing and for the responses that have already been posted!
 

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davidlee

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What are you trying to use the pump for? It is a 220v only and is a flooded suction pump meaning it is not self priming and has no hair and lint strainer to keep trash out of the impeller. That could be added but it is still flooded suction and high volume and low pressure pump.
I would guess about 40-50 GPM and about 20-30 PSI.
 
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RLYoung

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I understand both your points. I am going to use it for an above ground recirculation/filter apparatus. My issue lies strictly with the wiring, with which I need assistance.
 
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davidlee

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For high speed operation connect one hot lead to the #2 on the terminal board and the other hot lead to #3 on the terminal board connect your ground to the ground screw on the motor case. If you want low speed change #3 to # 4. You will only need three wires and will be 220v only.
 

yeldogt

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It looks like your diagram is correct. Is it 20 amp? I think most of the 4 pole are rated for 20amp -- look for a 20amp 3way if it is 20amp motor.

I have a two speed on one of my fountains and never use it -- I would check to see if the pump does what you want on low before you spend the time going the two speed route.

I use the timer as the switch when I want to manually operate the pumps .. Why do you want a time switch and another switch?
 
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davidlee

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8.5 amp on high and 2.8 on low. I have a 2 speed motor on my pool and I use an air switch to operate it. I THINK the part # of the switch is a Tri Delta TBS 312. You will probably have to get it at a pool/ spa store or on line. One hot will connect directly to the motor #2 and the second hot goes to the center pole on the switch then one of the other pole on the switch goes to #3 and the last pole on the switch goes to #4. A short piece of air tube and an air button and you are in business. Don't forget the ground.
 
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RLYoung

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Alright, update.

I decided to hook the pump up simply to see if it works. I have it in a 110v configuration as follows:

Terminal 1: Ground

Terminal 2: Neutral (White)

Terminal 3: 110v (Black)

Terminal 4: None

From doing some research and trial/error I gather that swapping the 110v hot from terminal 3 to 4 does absolutely nothing to switch the speed. Now, with the pump hooked up this way, it will run just fine until I get the system bled. At which point the motor gets hot in about 5-10 minutes and shuts off. This could be due to the pump being older, but I have my doubts in that theory because of 2 things.

First, I have two identical pumps/motors that were pulled out of the spa and they are both doing the same thing.

Second, I've heard running the wires from the breaker at a long distance as I have (abt 80ft with 10/3 Romex) could cause a less than stellar voltage drop.

Where I'm at now is trying to figure out how to run the pump/motor in a true 220v fashion to see if they run more efficiently. From the research I've done and looking at the diagram I think I need to remove the neutral and run the second 110v leg to that position as follows:

Terminal 1: Ground

Terminal 2: 110v (Red)

Terminal 3: 110v (Black)

Terminal 4: None

What say ye?
 

Stuart in MN

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According to the motor label the motor is 230vac only, I don't see anything there about being able to run it on 120vac. That's probably why it's overheating.

Looking at the picture of the motor label you run it on 230vac, with one hot lead connected to #2 and the other hot lead connected to either #3 or #4. I don't see any #1 terminal in the picture.

edit: Looking at it again, I assume you're calling the green ground wire connection #1, so that one is okay.
 
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abk241

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Best I can make out from your nameplate photo (post #8) you have a 230 V motor.
When you run a 230 V motor on 110 V you should expect nothing less than overheating.
 
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RLYoung

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Well that makes sense. I could have SWORN the plate said 110/230. Yikes. Well I suppose I will fix this here brain fart and post back up.
 

Jlarson

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Basically all you need is a DPST 240 volt intermatic clock. If you want speed control you'll need a SPDT switch with a 3 HP rating or grater.

You won't have a VD problem with 8.5 amps on #10 over 80 feet, you'd be looking at about a 1.5% drop.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Well that makes sense. I could have SWORN the plate said 110/230. Yikes. Well I suppose I will fix this here brain fart and post back up.

Yeah voltage drop isnt the issue, its overcurrent. It would have been running at 17 or so amps, double its normal rated FLA...Youre lucky it has a built in overcurrent limiter...
 
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RLYoung

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Update:

Wiring up the pump as I mentioned in the earlier post with two 110v legs worked like a charm. Simply switching the second leg from position 3 to 4 effectively changes the motor from high speed to low speed.

Just thought I would post this up in case anyone else tries repurposing one of these pumps in the future. Thank you for the help everyone.
 
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