My first compressor... a mid 90's Quincy. Have questions.

[technician117]

Hey guys. I bought that QT-5 that I was looking at a few days ago. It's home and I'm getting it "hooked up". I got it wiped down and I added an outlet for it off of my garage panel. I bought a "whip" for a dryer plug so I can plug it in. My question is, how do I wire the 2 power feeds? The ground is easy. I've attached a pic of what I'm working with. Do I tie the black to the black, and hook the white (coming in from my cord) to the bottom screw?

Right now I have it hooked to a 30 amp breaker. Obviously once I run it I'll find out if it's enough, but what's the opinion on running it off a 30 amp?

This is my first compressor. When I was younger I ran my Dad's old Wayne compressor, but it was already outfitted... and outdated so I don't want to follow that set up if it's not the best way. So I'm looking for information on what I should buy to have this thing last me long term... ie, water traps, what else?

Next. I need a new air filter. Any recommended sources? I have the old one and the part number is legible.

I also want to change the oil in it. What should I run? I live in the northeast and my garage has heat, but only when I turn it on.

Anything else I'm missing?

Oh, and to confirm, this is an 80 gallon tank right?

Edit - background on me is I used to be a Ford technician for 4 years and have been working on cars and motorsports for 15+ years now. I have a large set of air tools that will be the main usage of this compressor. Anything from a 1/2" impact to a cut off wheel.

 

[Strouty]

Can you get a picture of the motor tag?

 

[technician117]

Can you get a picture of the motor tag?

Yes. I just realized I forgot to take that pic after I wiped the dust off the label! Be right back...

P.S. - I know it is 230v single phase...

 

[technician117]

Here is another angle at the wiring as well. The white wire from the motor is connected behind that top screw.

 

[PT Doc]

That is a 5 hp motor and should be hard wired to the power. Forget about the plug. Great compressor. Have fun with it.

 

[Strouty]

That is a 5 hp motor and should be hard wired to the power. Forget about the plug. Great compressor. Have fun with it.

Why? I can see wiring it with a disconnect, but no reason you can't use a plug.

30 Amp circuit is pretty much perfect. I would not go with a 20 and I think a 25 is too close and a little uncommon. Unless you are going a long distance, 10 gauge is fine.

 

[Strouty]

From the pictures I can't tell what wires are going where. Where are the wires from the motor hooked to? I almost feel like the pressure switch is wired wrong. I am not good at long distance figuring, but up close it makes sense. Hopefully an electrical engineer or rocket scientist can figure it out.

The black wires that go from one side to the other are making me a little confused. I thought you would normally have one side in and out, then the same thing on the other side. It seems like it would only switch one leg of the 240 power?

 

[A_Pmech]

Why? I can see wiring it with a disconnect, but no reason you can't use a plug.

The black helicopters are inbound to do a receptaclized motor load analysis in your shop now. ETE 15 minutes.

I suggest you start cutting cords and stashing plugs now.

 

[Strouty]

The black helicopters are inbound to do a receptaclized motor load analysis in your shop now. ETE 15 minutes.

I suggest you start cutting cords and stashing plugs now.

The only one qualified to answer all the OP's questions and you turn into a wise ***!

 

[A_Pmech]

The only one qualified to answer all the OP's questions and you turn into a wise ***!

You know me...

Plugs and receptacles are "horsepower rated." The majority of twist locks are not rated over 3HP. The rating has little or nothing to do with the electrical capacity and most everything to do with potentially not containing the arc from disassembling the plug / receptacle at full motor load.

I need a new air filter. Any recommended sources? I have the old one and the part number is legible.

Solberg would be a good start:

http://www.solbergmfg.com/ViewSeriesDetail.aspx?SeriesId=57&src=drill

I also want to change the oil in it. What should I run?

Quincy has their own house brand oil, Quin-Cip which is f'ing expensive. I'm running Mobil Rarus 426 as I can't stomach $80 oil changes on an air compressor. As a bonus, Walmart stocks Rarus.

I'll leave the electricians to answer the other questions.

 

[Strouty]

Well……...

You know me…

Yup

Plugs and receptacles are "horsepower rated." The majority of twist locks are not rated over 3HP. The rating has little or nothing to do with the electrical capacity and most everything to do with potentially not containing the arc from disassembling the plug / receptacle at full motor load.

So you should either direct wire it or put a disconnect over 3 HP, or just don't unplug it while the motor is running.


I'll leave the electricians to answer the other questions.

That is funny coming from the guy building a rail gun.

 

[technician117]

Thanks for the replies. So the compressor oil is specific for compressor applications? I was reading the 1996 parts book for this compressor I found a PDF for online, and it looked like the Quincy oil came in different container sizes and different weights: 10, 20, and 30w. I was thinking it was just non detergent motor oil...

I will check out that site for the air filter. Thanks!

What is a decent water trap to buy? Or are most store bought ones fine? I won't be painting with this, just for my air tools.

I assumed, possibly incorrectly that the 30 amp rated plug and connector would be fine since I'm running a 30 amp breaker on a motor that runs 22 amps. I figured even spikes in the amps wouldn't get close to 30 amps.

Back to the wiring: I am confused as well, but I attributed that to not having experience with the switches involved. I've wired plenty of 230v single phase plugs, etc. for the floor grinders my company uses out in the field as well as 3 phase applications... but these were all "simple" circuits. So, coming out of the motor on the compressor are my 3 wires, green, black, white. The green goes to a ground. Perfect. The black wire is just hanging out and looks like it had a wire nut on it (I do remember seeing the guy remove at least one wire nut). The white wire is bolted to the top post on the switch. Coming into this junction box, I have the green wire grounded to the same spot as the other ground (it's the only place anyway). So I just need to figure out where to connect the 2 powers (white and black). I appreciate the help!

 

[A_Pmech]

Compressor oil is non-detergent oil designed to be low coking. Otherwise, it's basically motor oil. Rarus is about the same price as branded motor oil, whereas the Quincy oil is about $10 a quart.

Norgren or Wilkerson are the flagship brands, although many others exist that work just fine. For a water separator to work you'll need to cool down the air from the receiver enough to allow the vapor to condense. Installing the separator on the receiver is useless. Installing it at the end of a long run of metallic pipe will be much more effective.

Technically speaking, because your motor is over 3HP, you have to use a "pin and sleeve" style receptacle if you don't hard wire it. They're about $500. Realistically speaking, I've used twist-lock receptacles at MUCH higher horsepower loads with no issues. Pick your poison.

From what I can see of your pressure switch, they wired it to switch only one side of the 240 single phase, which is a bad idea. It's a good way to get someone electrocuted thinking the switch is "off," when the motor is actually still live.

Technically your pressure switch is likely not rated to start that motor. Most pressure switches are limited to 3HP or less. The proper way to handle that is to use the pressure switch to control a magnetic starter. However, if you look at the pressure switch you'll see it has two sets of contacts. One set should switch each side of the incoming 240V to the motor.

Thanks for the replies. So the compressor oil is specific for compressor applications? I was reading the 1996 parts book for this compressor I found a PDF for online, and it looked like the Quincy oil came in different container sizes and different weights: 10, 20, and 30w. I was thinking it was just non detergent motor oil...

I will check out that site for the air filter. Thanks!

What is a decent water trap to buy? Or are most store bought ones fine? I won't be painting with this, just for my air tools.

I assumed, possibly incorrectly that the 30 amp rated plug and connector would be fine since I'm running a 30 amp breaker on a motor that runs 22 amps. I figured even spikes in the amps wouldn't get close to 30 amps.

Back to the wiring: I am confused as well, but I attributed that to not having experience with the switches involved. I've wired plenty of 230v single phase plugs, etc. for the floor grinders my company uses out in the field as well as 3 phase applications... but these were all "simple" circuits. So, coming out of the motor on the compressor are my 3 wires, green, black, white. The green goes to a ground. Perfect. The black wire is just hanging out and looks like it had a wire nut on it (I do remember seeing the guy remove at least one wire nut). The white wire is bolted to the top post on the switch. Coming into this junction box, I have the green wire grounded to the same spot as the other ground (it's the only place anyway). So I just need to figure out where to connect the 2 powers (white and black). I appreciate the help!

 

[Strouty]

It is all making sense now. I was not even thinking about the starter being missing. This is one of those situations where being there is far easier to figure it out than through the internet.

Can you get a magnetic starter? It does appear they were cheating the system by using the pressure switch to carry one leg of the 240 circuit. As A_Pmech said, not a good idea, it is a much worse idea than using a plug.

 

[Strouty]

As bad advice, if you want to run it the same way they did it, you would hook up the green to green, black to black (loose wire) and the white (incoming) would be hooked to the first screw terminal on the pressure switch, the one at the opposite end of the white wire.

Dose that make sense? As I stated, this is to be done at your own risk, you are getting free advice from a licensed internet opinion holder, so take it for what it is worth. I do offer a double your money back guarantee, but only on the 29th of February and the sixth Tuesday of any other month..