Ceramic tile on plywood floor?

[Jay Sco]

I know, far from the correct way to do it, but hear me out.
This is for my shed at work project ( http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287619 ). Tile just seems to be the cheapest way to finish the floor, keep clean, and look decent. Seeing as how the wood floor may/will flex, I was thinking of using Liquid Nails or a similar tube dispensed epoxy to adhere each individual tile (probably 12"x12"), then use a caulking instead of grout to fill in between. Simple, cheap, each tile will be somewhat solid, yet entire floor will have some give in it for movement.

Yes? No? Maybe?

 

[kd3pc]

It will work, but may not provide the look and/or service you expect. The plywood is too flexible, and when you use adhesive, that may stick really well here and not so well there. Between the flex of the ply and the gaps between the adhesive, the tile is likely to crack.

Let us know how it works out.

 

[raddksn]

I'm thinking a good outdoor deck paint?!?! To do tile properly you'll need to use polymer modified thinset to put down some 1/4" thick cement board first, then use the same polymer mod thinset to set the tile in. I just finnished this in the wife's kitchen, it's verry solid!

 

[P_856]

I remember seeing a product that snaps together with a ceramic tile on the top on the diy channel. Sometime similar to this http://m.lowes.com/pd/SnapStone-5-P...12-in-x-12-in;-Actual:-12-in-x-12-in)/3275865

I would assume it's when it's all together then it would be one whole floating floor. Then you can grout or caulk the seams together.

 

[DonPowers]

I put in a ceramic tile entry way over a plywood floor many years ago. Before installing the tile, placed another layer of 3/4" plywood over the existing plywood and screwed on 4" centers, per recommendation of the tile supplier. No issues for the time I lived there, can't say how it held up as I sold the house in 1989.

 

[Jeremy77]

As posted above, cement board over the plywood and then your ceramic. I live on the gulf coast and that's the set up used for thousands and thousands of beach houses.

 

[txvwnut]

Yup hardie board over the plywood and then use flexibond mortar and you should have no problems. My house is pier and beam and I have tiled the master bath and the kitchen and dining area, 330sqft, and the master bath, 110sqft. Had no issues with tiles cracking or popping. Just be sure to use a quality tile and not go cheap, the tile I used has a 5 rating for wear and endurance and could also be used outside.

 

[enrare]

would a de-coupler membrane like Ditra work?

 

[rsanter]

I had a bathroom repair to do one time. I opoed the tiles loose very carefully. Did the repair to the part of the pipe coming out of the wall and then I had to put several tiles back. I used liquid nails and white caulking. This was right behind a pedestal sink so it did but didn't show. Anyhow, it worked just fine

Bob

 

[Dakota00]

would a de-coupler membrane like Ditra work?

Yes, as long as there's minimal flex in the sub floor.

 

[rlitman]

would a de-coupler membrane like Ditra work?

That's what I was thinking. Also, use small tiles.

 

[James-W]

Or you could just cover the floor with plastic tiles. Since the plastic tiles "float" on the floor they won't crack or break. Plus, the job will be done quickly with a minimum of prep and very little effort.

 

[alpinewhite]

Racedeck!!!

 

[Jay Sco]

Thanks for all the replies and other options. Cement board is out, I really think it would crack without adding 3/4" plywood first and that would be adding way too much height. Remember this is a shed so headroom is already limited. Not sure how PVC (plastic, vinyl) tiles would adhere to plywood, but that got me thinking about another option.
Racedeck (or similar) flooring may be ideal for this situation. Can't believe I didn't think of it sooner. Sometimes the most obvious answer is the one overlooked.

 

[Jay Sco]

Racedeck!!!

LOL! You must have read my mind as I was typing! Small enough space where it's a strong possibility even with my penny pinching boss.

 

[raddksn]

Thanks for all the replies and other options. Cement board is out, I really think it would crack without adding 3/4" plywood first and that would be adding way too much height. Remember this is a shed so headroom is already limited. Not sure how PVC (plastic, vinyl) tiles would adhere to plywood, but that got me thinking about another option.
Racedeck (or similar) flooring may be ideal for this situation. Can't believe I didn't think of it sooner. Sometimes the most obvious answer is the one overlooked.

What thickness is the plywood floor now?

 

[Jay Sco]

What thickness is the plywood floor now?

Not really sure. 1/2", 3/8" maybe?

 

[2nrguy]

Had to add my $.02, I was a union tile setter for 10yrs. Use an underlayment, it will save you a lot of future pain!! +1 for the latex modified thin set, it's a little bit tricky to get right for the average DIY that's only going to use it a few times. But it will be worth it in the long run.

 

[SteveCh]

LOL! You must have read my mind as I was typing! Small enough space where it's a strong possibility even with my penny pinching boss.

Point out to the boss that Racedeck will take a couple hours, if you are working slowly. No surface prep, no underlayment, no doubling of plywood, no grouting, nothing except snap the tiles together then collapse a few cardboard boxes and place into the recycle bin. In other words, very little labor and very little time expended.