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Broke my first SO Dual 80

Vulturej

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I broke my first dual 80 SLF80 ratchet today.:( Really pissed me off, I had to break out my old SN24B to finish the job. I was removing some ½-13 SHCS and it locked up and would not ratchet anymore. I have not disassembled it because i'm going to see SO tomorrow.
 
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justinmc

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You could have bought the HF version for $15. I would bet it would last more than 3 uses.

Yeah but is HF pulling up to your job and servicing/replacing your tools for life? Do they even offer a warranty other than that you'll make it past the checkout stand with the tools in your hand? Nothing wrong w/ the guys who use HF here.. but in a professional environment it generally pays to buy name brand stuff.


PS.. that really *****.. I haven't gotten to put the FX80 to use yet.. but this weekend I've got a motor to tear down so I'm sure it'll get a workout.
 

Diesel-Mech

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Thats the first 1/2" drive dual 80 failure I have heard off, sorry to hear that you got a dud but I'm sure the replacment/rebuild will meet your expectations.
 
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slack

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In a sense I guess it failed, but since it is new it seems more like it was defective. Locking up on you is better than a catastrophic failure resulting in you being injured.
 

sk farmer

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if merk can say it about sk i can say it about snap-on " maybe they will replace it with another HIGH QUALITY snap-on ratchet":bounce:
 

bchee

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There's a chance it's not broken. Did you hear something crack? The pawl may have just come out of the direction switch. It would be unusual, but possible. I reassembled a 3/8 incorrectly and it was binding up and would not change directions. When I opened it, it wasn't obvious what was wrong, but I just put everything back in and it was working again.
 

Moose-LandTran

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There's a chance it's not broken. Did you hear something crack? The pawl may have just come out of the direction switch. It would be unusual, but possible. I reassembled a 3/8 incorrectly and it was binding up and would not change directions. When I opened it, it wasn't obvious what was wrong, but I just put everything back in and it was working again.

I had the same thing with one of mine, direction switch wouldn't move, neither would the square drive.
 

M5 LiTE

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It seems that the the OP has not disassembled the ratchet though. So if the pawl has dislodged, then it would be a defect in manufacturing, assembly or even material.
 

showags

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Breakfree CLP is good stuff:thumbup:

I agree! For my ratchets however, I use the Breakfree LP. It comes in a small bottle with a straw(non-aerosol). It is essentially the same stuff, but without the cleaning solvents so it has a higher solids content and is slightly more viscous, but will not bog down a ratchet, or any of my guns for that matter.
 
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48548

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If the RLL bleeds, couldn't you buy some maxi pads to have then rest on when not being used so that blood doesn't leak on your box and gets soaked up, and when they are really soaked, just replace with new ones?
 

48548

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I was making a joke about blood and pads, my bad it was in bad taste, I am sorry.
 

-B-

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if merk can say it about sk i can say it about snap-on " maybe they will replace it with another HIGH QUALITY snap-on ratchet":bounce:



No you should just leave it alone, as it shows his insecurities forced by jealousy because SO took over 30 years to catch up. :beer:



You really should use a synthetic lube that will bond with the metal to ensure proper lubrication. Assembly lube is just that for assembly not for anything else it is made to wash out quickly , only provide initial buffer until the real lube takes it's place.
 

Merkava_4

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Assembly lube is just that for assembly not for anything else it is made to wash out quickly , only provide initial buffer until the real lube takes it's place.

You said that before in another thread. I asked you if you've ever tried RLL in a 30 or 36 tooth ratchet and you never did answer. "Don't knock it 'till you try it" applies very well in this case.
 

bmwpower

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Never tried it either but in a ratchet and in a hot revolving engine are 2 different things.
 

-B-

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You said that before in another thread. I asked you if you've ever tried RLL in a 30 or 36 tooth ratchet and you never did answer. "Don't knock it 'till you try it" applies very well in this case.


I have used assembly lube for it correct and specified purposes , I deal with metal on metal contact all day long I know how to use proper lubes for the correct jobs.

The proof that does not work is in every picture or compliant posted it weeps, there for it is doing what it is tended to do only provide initial protection then be replaced by a proper lube.
 

billymade

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Any update on a repair with your Snap-On man? Curios to know what they problem ended up being! Inquiring minds want to know! :) Autopsy and pics of the deceased, appreciated! :)
 

kythri

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The proof that does not work is in every picture or compliant posted it weeps, there for it is doing what it is tended to do only provide initial protection then be replaced by a proper lube.

So, a picture of some seepage constitutes proof, rather than the statements by a LOT of people on this forum? :headscrat
 
OP
V

Vulturej

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Snappy blew me off, was supposed to stop by the house around 8:00 pm. I called him twice no answer. I'll call him tomorrow and ask WTF!
 
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Vulturej

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Dam impatient lot here, worse than my kids.

For inquiring minds, It's broke. The little chip of selector switch was wedged in between the paw and ratchet head.

P1010936.jpg

P1010937.jpg
 

bchee

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thanks for the picts. It's still not clear where that piece is from. It looks like the part of the pawl that fits in the selector
 
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