how can i repair this flaking concrete?

[boobag]

the edge of my garage floor is exposed outside when the door is shut. it has flaked pretty bad. in the winter, salt and slush melt off my cars and flow out the bottom edge of the door. then it seems to penetrate the concrete, freeze, and then flake/pop the surface.
a couple years ago i applied a quickrete concrete resurfacer, and it did not hold up well at all. and what has remained, can be easily chipped off.
anybody have any ideas to make this look better?

 

[plugers]

Cut it out and repour. The only thing that will hold up.

 

[boobag]

Cut it out and repour. The only thing that will hold up.

i know that is the right answer but i was maybe going to try and patch it with something else as a last ditch effort. maybe try some Ardex CD....

 

[mechanix311]

could you grind it flush and then seal it? It will have an aggregate look to it though

 

[Jlbc212]

Try some thin-set mortar. Use as little water as possible when mixing the mortar. Thoroughly clean the damaged concrete a couple of days before. Very lightly dampen (a gentle mist or a damp sponge) the concrete before applying the mortar.

 

[NUTTSGT]

That edge right there probably get the worse abuse of concrete around a garage. If you heat the garage, it's the edge that is going to radiate out any heat from the garage into the cold weather. That will make it freeze thaw even more, adding winter salt droppings is going to make the problem even worse.

Cutting it out would be the best, the biggest problem is what that thought is that edge is part of the footer and going to be deep. If you do cut out and replace, you'll have expansion joints/saw cuts that water can migrate down and freeze/thaw and again make it worse. If you do replace, make sure to fill the joints with something like Sikaflex in an attempt to keep the winter water out.

 

[dfiler2]

We have used a material like this in a shop with lots of forklift traffic and it stands up very well.

http://www.abatron.com/buildingandrestorationproducts/concretemaintenance/aboweld551.html

This will be a better solution than tearing it out and re-pouring because in a few years you will have the same thing, this fix will be permanent.

 

[bcradio]

+

Although to me that doesn't look bad at all IMO.

 

[David C]

You can try SIKA products. They have a wide variety of cementitious materials and an epoxy type product tha t might work.

You will need to do some research on which product to use and follow the directions, explicitly.

I have recently used a quickcrete product and am underwhelmed, wished I used sika instead.

No matter which product you use you need to remove all loose and crumbly material before you apply any topping repair.

 

[wssix99]

I'd just get a grinder with a diamond masonry dish and polish the thing down. You'll get a decorative exposed aggregate look as a bonus when you do this.

 

[boobag]

could you grind it flush and then seal it? It will have an aggregate look to it though

that is a thought. though i'd have to grind probably half inch off since there is some deep pits.

Try some thin-set mortar. Use as little water as possible when mixing the mortar. Thoroughly clean the damaged concrete a couple of days before. Very lightly dampen (a gentle mist or a damp sponge) the concrete before applying the mortar.

thinset does have a lot of polymers for bonding. i wonder how it'd hold up to freezing and salt.

That edge right there probably get the worse abuse of concrete around a garage. If you heat the garage, it's the edge that is going to radiate out any heat from the garage into the cold weather. That will make it freeze thaw even more, adding winter salt droppings is going to make the problem even worse.

Cutting it out would be the best, the biggest problem is what that thought is that edge is part of the footer and going to be deep. If you do cut out and replace, you'll have expansion joints/saw cuts that water can migrate down and freeze/thaw and again make it worse. If you do replace, make sure to fill the joints with something like Sikaflex in an attempt to keep the winter water out.

there is a 42" poured foundation wall underneath. the floor just sits on top.

We have used a material like this in a shop with lots of forklift traffic and it stands up very well.

http://www.abatron.com/buildingandrestorationproducts/concretemaintenance/aboweld551.html

This will be a better solution than tearing it out and re-pouring because in a few years you will have the same thing, this fix will be permanent.

does it look like concrete? looks like epoxy in the link. probably the strongest thing i can apply....

+

Although to me that doesn't look bad at all IMO.

on a house that is only 4 years old though...

You can try SIKA products. They have a wide variety of cementitious materials and an epoxy type product tha t might work.

You will need to do some research on which product to use and follow the directions, explicitly.

I have recently used a quickcrete product and am underwhelmed, wished I used sika instead.

No matter which product you use you need to remove all loose and crumbly material before you apply any topping repair.

will look into.

 

[stikman56]

Cut it out and repour. The only thing that will hold up.

I'd do this, or grind it down so it's all the same.

 

[f150skidoo]

Go to a real concrete supply store and ask for a product called MG KRETE. This product is designed for concrete repair, you mix the dry powder with the chemical activator and pour it like concrete. This stuff is insane we use it to fix floors in warehouses, we have poured a patch of this stuff and 20 minutes later guys were driving over it with fork lifts. Its not the cheapest stuff at $50 per bag but does it ever work well.

http://www.mg-krete.com/

 

[boobag]

Go to a real concrete supply store and ask for a product called MG KRETE. This product is designed for concrete repair, you mix the dry powder with the chemical activator and pour it like concrete. This stuff is insane we use it to fix floors in warehouses, we have poured a patch of this stuff and 20 minutes later guys were driving over it with fork lifts. Its not the cheapest stuff at $50 per bag but does it ever work well.

http://www.mg-krete.com/

ok, this seems like the best option so far, short of tearing it out.

 

[wssix99]

ARDEX also makes good toppings for this kind of thing, but a single 40 lb bag will probably cost as much as the rental to jack hammer out the old sill and re-pour.

If you do a topping, I'd still grind the surface down first. It looks like the old sill is flaking due to poor finishing and anything you put on top of that bad surface will just flake off with its "canvas."