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Basic Rust Bullet Floor Project -- No garage snobs allowed :-)

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
We have so many amazing pictures that have been posted here. Many of the regulars on the forum are looking for the 'perfect' garage but we have had a ton of private messages and emails about what just an ordinary requires.

For those of us who want 'perfection' this was probably not it. This shows that without taking the time and money to fill joints, cracks, etc you can take your floor from ugh to nice. There are plenty of other projects using the Rust Bullet to demonstrate full broadcast and random flake systems.

Project Location: Grand Junction, CO
Sq. Ft. 400
Material Used: Two Gallons Rust Bullet, quart Rust Bullet Solvent, Quart Metal Blast, 16oz Pour N restore.

Prep: Removed oil stains using PNR & metal blast. Taped off walls. Everything else coated as is. Joints had been half filled with a paintable caulk years ago. Not ideal, but the Rust Bullet coated it fine. If it was flush with the floor we would be concerned. In this case we were not.

Cost at retail:


2 Gallons Rust Bullet $284.98
1 Metal Blast $19.99
1 Solvent 11.99
1 PNR $16.49

Homeowner applied PNR which soaked up large oil stain. Then Metal Blast was applied and allowed to soak in for 1/2 hour. The entire floor was then rinsed well and allowed to dry for several days.

Prep time 1 Hour
Coat 1: 2 Hours
Coat 2: 1.5 Hours
Clean Up: 1/2 Hour

before.jpg


in-progress.jpg


close-up-in-progress.jpg


after.jpg


Roller Marks

The first coat roller marks and very small pinholes are prevalent. Proper rolling technique eliminated the roller marks and pulling the roller back towards you with no pressure, evened out the coating and left a great appearance.

Odor

Very strong during install, including in the house. Dissipated noticeably overnight.
 
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packpride85

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Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
77
Location
Central NC
Do you think most of the odor came through the interior door? I was going to tape off both the inside and outside around the door frame to try and prevent my house from stinking.
 

benwah

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Joined
May 21, 2014
Messages
980
Location
Crested Butte, Colorado
I would imagine that doors, and the thresholds underneath them, and any gaps on the sides and top are going to to your main culprits. Also any ventilation leading to the main house will allow fumes to travel inwards.
 
OP
G

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Do you think most of the odor came through the interior door? I was going to tape off both the inside and outside around the door frame to try and prevent my house from stinking.

I would imagine that doors, and the thresholds underneath them, and any gaps on the sides and top are going to to your main culprits. Also any ventilation leading to the main house will allow fumes to travel inwards.

Yes, definitely. The fact that we had to have the garage door completely closed did not help either.
 
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Joeys79

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Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
50
Location
Southern Indiana
Call me old school, but I like the basic look. Yea, the flakes are nice if it's just for admiring, but drop a small screw and your screwed. I hope to see the video before I start rolling mine out.
 

hal1

Well-known member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
244
Location
Phoenix
Is there a maximum temperature above which you would revccomend NOT applyling this? It's soon going to be in the 90's and 100's here in Phoenix.

Also, what is the "concrete +" product refer to?
 
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OP
G

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Call me old school, but I like the basic look. Yea, the flakes are nice if it's just for admiring, but drop a small screw and your screwed. I hope to see the video before I start rolling mine out.

I think there are a lot of people who feel that way. In many cases it comes down to what the application is for. Regarding the video, we do it all in house. No actors, no professional editing and no BS. We get great feedback on our videos because of it -- but it takes me some time to get it done.

We also have another project we are working on in the beginning of June and we are trying to determine if we should make that a separate video (flake and clear) or do one with everything.

Is there a maximum temperature above which you would revccomend NOT applyling this? It's soon going to be in the 90's and 100's here in Phoenix.

Also, what is the "concrete +" product refer to?

Right now the Concrete+ indication is so we know to ship the concrete coating instructions with the order. We are waiting on labels and once those labels are complete it will be different packaging that the 'Standard'. The big thing to stay away from is the automotive formula.

Recommended air or surface temperature should not be below 35°F (2°C) or above 110°F (43°C). Ideal application temperature is between 50°F (10°C) and 80°F (27°C) with humidity below 70%. Never apply a Rust Bullet coating while raining or under threat of rain. Do not apply to surfaces when existing temperature of the surface exceeds 190°F (90°C) or is
below 32°F (0°C). After fully cured, Rust Bullet coatings have a service temperature range of 314°F (157°C) continuous, and can tolerate maximum temperature between 617°F -662°F (325°C–350°C) for up to 72 hours.
 
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