Vintage Tool Restoration and Gallery

[CoolTool]

I wanted to start this thread off with a well known but rare version of a Delta 14inch band saw. I was looking for a solid cast arm delta band saw and all I could find was the standard gusseted ones. At the shipyard I work out of they had one of these from the 40's they had been running aluminum through all day long for at least 50 years with only a need for general service.

I saw one that looked like the one I was familiar with only it had faucet style nuts. The guy was asking 300 which is more than I usually pay for used tools that likely need work and money thrown at them. The saw was mint I mean hardly scratched one ceased bearing and two broken trunnion clamps which got me my gas money back since I ended up paying 280 for it. It had a home built stand which I plan on swapping to the sleek tapered stands they originally came with. I also have a 1.5hp 1750 rpm baldor motor I scored for 20 bucks a few months earlier I plan to throw on it.

I am pretty sure the year this saw was made was 1942, I know those faucet style nuts arnt too common. What do you all think?










I will repost some pictures once I have it all done up. I am excited to see what kind of deals other people are getting out there.

 

[zkling]

For a wood only version with broken trunions and a seized bearing on non factory stand, I think that was pretty high JMHO. But as long as you are happy. Those are one of, if not the most common old Delta machine. Hopefully the seized bearing didn't spin a bore or shaft. Yes 1942 sounds right for that machine.

 

[CoolTool]

Hard to believe it is wood only considering the same model has been tearing aluminum apart day in and day out at the shipyard I work. What makes this model a wood only? It has trunnions the clamping bolt on the inside is broken probably a few dollars to fix. The bearing unseaized with some corrosion X and 10min of time. So you have seen many models with the faucet style nuts? I agree tho I like to keep these kind of purchases closer to 150 but sometimes to get exactly what you want you have to pay a bit more. I will post a few more items when I get some time.

Thanx for your input

 

[CoolTool]

Your reply got me wondering since our aluminum shop uses a 14" delta and an 18" delta band saw for cutting aluminum of all shapes and sizes with a stick of wax to clean the blade with every so often. Here is an interesting feed on the difference of wood and metal saws. Neither of the two saws used at the industrial shipyard I work at have wheel brushes or reduction gear boxes and I have personally cut through 1inch thick aluminum plate on both with lots of wax. I think the big difference is in the stoutness and balance which is often more likely found on older machines. And obviously the blade matters too. Here is an interesting link

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/differences-between-metal-wood-band-saw-225681/

 

[CoolTool]

Ok I guess there isn't a whole lot of interest in that particular band saw I realize they are fairly common I just thought that year was a little less.

Here is a picture of a 36inch diameter wet stone I purchased from a retired fireman for 50$. It sits on a shaft with two babbitt bearings on either side. The motor is 110 with a gear reduction box. You fill up the traugh and start sharpening. I have never seen a stone this large it weighs about 1000lbs. I plan on rebabbiting the bearings and just cleaning it up. Any one seen anything like this before?

 

[drivesitfar]

CT: it takes a bit of time to have a good thread get momentum and having members look and respond to tall the posts. just for an example I've started a few threads like the vise repair 101 thread that felt like i was the only poster for a week or two and now it's got 100,000 views and it still needs posts from members to keep it alive.

threads like the craftsman block grinder thread and the vises of garage journal thread are a pretty good example of threads that have a lot of followers so if some member asks a good question or posts some good pictures there is usually a post from another member fairly quickly.

stick with your idea especially if you own a lot of cool old tools and post lots of pictures. i'd suggest being a new member that you join a few existing threads talking about tools you like so you can get to know a few of us and they will know to look for your threads and posts. it takes time, but there are some great guys and gals that are here on this forum.

just an FYI i tend not to post what i paid or sold items for unless a member i know has one to sell or wants to buy one then i'll PM him or her to help. i don't need the You **** because i bought a tool for $10 that's worth $100 or having a relative of somebody that just passed away seeing the chatter. i don't always buy stuff on pennies to the dollar, but if a seller needs to move some stuff that i might be able to use (eventually) at a good price i'll probably buy it all. then maybe sell what i don't need later when i get time.

PM (private message) me if you need anything and i'll try to help or just keep posting like you do because i think you will be a great addition to our group.

nice stuff BTW

 

[CoolTool]

Thanx for your insight and advice drivesfar much appreciated. I will post many more pictures as I find time and finish a few refurbishings. I have my own experience base and I'm looking forward to hearing helpful tips and other people's experiences with the way in which they have applied the use of modern technology and applied it to old and robustly built tools. I do think there is a lot to talk about in regards to aluminum cutting.

 

[drivesitfar]

CT: to add to ZK's point about a wood saw cutting metal. since aluminum is a lot softer than steel a good blade might be the way your company's wood saw is cutting aluminum all the time. i bet if the owner or you put on a DC motor or change the belts so you could slow the blade down those saws could cut anything.

one thread you might enjoy reading is of Ryan's where he put a DC motor and cool switch on his old Craftsman wood bandsaw so he can now cut metal and wood. i heard old treadmill motors are great DC motors that you can maybe find off a free treadmill.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280823&highlight=craftsman+bandsaw

good luck

 

[Red Leader]

I wanted to start this thread off with a well known but rare version of a Delta 14inch band saw. I was looking for a solid cast arm delta band saw and all I could find was the standard gusseted ones. At the shipyard I work out of they had one of these from the 40's they had been running aluminum through all day long for at least 50 years with only a need for general service.

I saw one that looked like the one I was familiar with only it had faucet style nuts. The guy was asking 300 which is more than I usually pay for used tools that likely need work and money thrown at them. The saw was mint I mean hardly scratched one ceased bearing and two broken trunnion clamps which got me my gas money back since I ended up paying 280 for it. It had a home built stand which I plan on swapping to the sleek tapered stands they originally came with. I also have a 1.5hp 1750 rpm baldor motor I scored for 20 bucks a few months earlier I plan to throw on it.

I am pretty sure the year this saw was made was 1942, I know those faucet style nuts arnt too common. What do you all think?










I will repost some pictures once I have it all done up. I am excited to see what kind of deals other people are getting out there.

If you are happy with your purchase that is all that matters. There isn't really a bluebook for these types of things and it if was worth it to you, that is what counts. They make great all purpose saws.

 

[CoolTool]

CT: to add to ZK's point about a wood saw cutting metal. since aluminum is a lot softer than steel a good blade might be the way your company's wood saw is cutting aluminum all the time. i bet if the owner or you put on a DC motor or change the belts so you could slow the blade down those saws could cut anything.

one thread you might enjoy reading is of Ryan's where he put a DC motor and cool switch on his old Craftsman wood bandsaw so he can now cut metal and wood. i heard old treadmill motors are great DC motors that you can maybe find off a free treadmill.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280823&highlight=craftsman+bandsaw

good luck

Great suggestion I like the idea of infinite speed control. Aluminum cuts great at 1750 which the right lubrication but obviously steel is another beast. I wonder why you can't do the same with an AC motor.

 

[CoolTool]

Red leader I agree and I'm very happy with the saw. Money is money value is not in the paper but what you spend it on and what you do with what you've baught. I guess ideally you'd have a steel/aluminum band saw and a wood band saw and perhaps plastic. I need a bigger shop!

 

[drivesitfar]

CT: i'm not the motor expert so until you learn to tell me or another member tells us i'll take a stab at it. AC doesn't give constant speed to slow down or speed up and DC does and i should probably know why.

hope all is great at home today with the new baby and your sick 2 year old.

cheers and probably a good thing your beer is strong some days.

Red: AGREED

 

[CoolTool]

Ya I'm not toO sure just thinking of a dimmer switch. I mean they have variable speed tools that run on 110. Anyone know if that could work?

 

[Aura]

Nice saw! I don't think the dimmer idea switch will work, but I am sure someone (or someones) who know a lot more than I will be along to steer you in the right direction. And by the way, that thing about I need a bigger shop? Don't we all!

 

[Scimonetti]

You cannot get variable speed on an single phase ac induction motor. DC yes, 3 phase yes, and single phase brushed universal motors yes. That's why you can buy router speed controls (big dimmer switches).

I won't go into the the specifics, but brushed motors like routers and handheld tools can "pretty much" have their speed changed by a heavy duty dimmer, but those are it. Any motor on a machine tool will not have brushes, except repulsion induction motors which only use them on startup.

A treadmill motor can be cheap and easy, but I never tried it. Good luck!

 

[CoolTool]

You cannot get variable speed on an single phase ac induction motor. DC yes, 3 phase yes, and single phase brushed universal motors yes. That's why you can buy router speed controls (big dimmer switches).

I won't go into the the specifics, but brushed motors like routers and handheld tools can "pretty much" have their speed changed by a heavy duty dimmer, but those are it. Any motor on a machine tool will not have brushes, except repulsion induction motors which only use them on startup.

A treadmill motor can be cheap and easy, but I never tried it. Good luck!

Makes sense thanks so much for the explanation.

 

[CoolTool]

I think I've decided since I know 1750 rpm works good for aluminum with proper waxing. I will throw my 1.5hp 1750 rpm motor on the old delta bandsaw and make it souly aluminum. I won't be cutting thicker steel with a band saw I use a cut off disc or a plasma cutter. I have a 10" homecraft I will throw a dc motor on with speed control for sheet metal and copper sheet cutting. Then my other 14" Rockwell will be souly wood so I don't end up with aluminum shaving in my wood work or have to swap blades when I need to resaw. And now I just need to figure out what to do with my 14" beaver cast aluminum band saw got that just because I loved the look. The newer 14" General international I might just sell, it just dosnt seem to run as smooth as the oldies.



. (Delta Homecraft 10")

. (Rockwell 14")

. (Beaver 14")

. (General International 14")

Is this the proper arrangement for purposing these tools or would one be better or worse for a given tasks?
Wondering what you all think?

 

[CoolTool]

So I'm just going to keep posting I have a lot of projects on the go and love hearing other people's opinions and experiences.

So here is the latest tool I've finished a refurbish on. A 6" beaver jointer. When I baught the jointer it was in rough shape to the eye it had obviously been dropped the main riser crank wheel shaft was extremely bent, the other wheel was missing the knuckle that you grab to spin the wheel and the tool was extremely seized. I almost walked away since these things were not listed in the post. But I had driven a long way and knew I could probably get it to work. It also had the old style stand with the wood chip chute which I wanted.



I got the rusty heap home and found even more problems the fence bolt that releases the fence to tilt and move accross the table was seized; like everything else. When I got it apart I noticed the bolt was in fact broken hanging on with a nut over the crack and some rust welding it all together.

The crank wheel shaft that was clearly bent should be an easy fix... Right? Well I took off the wheel and tried to straighten it cold, bad idea "snap" I probably could have got it with heat but impatients never pays.

I took the heap to my other shop to weld the broken shaft back on I did get it to hold but it was never going to be a 100%. It held while I worked the cranks and loosend everything up to get things moving. But nothing really was smooth even after hours of lube and wire brushing. There was also slop in one of the crank shafts I realized the fancy nuts that pivot and push the table up as you crank the handle were made of aluminum and had gotten slightly stripped. I was surprised to see aluminum in that application. There was no name plate so I had no idea how old this jointer actually was.

. (Aluminum nut)

I took the broken bolt off and brought it to my machinist friend it was a fancy dual action bolt he made me another one from a high grade steel bolt. It worked great.

. (Dual action bolt under handle and sheeth)

I sanded the table casting with oil and sandpaper for a couple hours she cleaned up nice with no scratches.

Then I dismantled the stand and chute and sanded it all down. Primered it and painted it with what I thought was a close match. The color was from Canadian Tire called machinery grey. The color was great but the spray cans kept spraying chunks I had to resand and and spray a few times I exchanged about five cans before one worked decent enough to get an ok finish...

I put it all back together and everything was ok, but with that much effort your not looking for just ok right?

A few weeks later I saw an ad on CL for the same jointer no stand, no motor, no fence so I thought about it for a few days. I wasn't worried it would sell quick. I kept looking at the shiny jointer I had just finished and it haunted me to know it looked better than it worked.

I ended picking it up. Upon closer inspection I noticed the fancy nuts that push the table up as the cranks thread were made of brass. This one had a Rockwell name plate on it I looked it up and still couldn't figure out what year it was made. I assumed since they used brass on such an important part instead of aluminum it meant it was older, just a guess?

. (Brass nut)

The only other noticeable difference between the two was the depth plate on the first jointer was black and on the Rockwell labled beaver it was red.
Is this another way of aging them?


. (Black depth plate)

. (Red depth plate)

So now I am going to do a few minor things to the Rockwell beaver and put the fence on it and use the other one for parts.

 

[Rick M]

Before and after on my Goodell Pratt #125 bench lathe.

 

[CoolTool]

Before and after on my Goodell Pratt #125 bench lathe.

Cool looken lathe I've never seen one before that sure is an oldie.. looked it up here is a little history on it.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/goodell-pratt/

Have you made anything on it yet?

 

[drivesitfar]

CT: i just read and looked at the pictures of your bandsaws and love that Beaver. is it fair to say that you like bandsaws or is that you really like old tools in general?

your thoughts on having a different bandsaw for each type of metal or wood is sound if you have a lot of space and the jobs to keep them busy. i own two bandsaws and rarely use them so if i find a Beaver or an old Walker Turner i'll probably sell the two i own and make that one a metal and wood cutter with a DC motor or vfd on a 3 phase motor so i can adjust the speeds. since i won't be using mine much a little clean up when changing from metal to wood might not be too bad.

i'll check your long post later when i have time, but have to run to pick up some cement for a little project today.

nice posts and good idea for a thread.

Rick: what size motor are you going to put on your little lathe and any plans for it's use or will it just be a nice one to put on a shelf?

 

[Jere]

Lots of cool bandsaws! Its amazing to me how long bandsaws hang around more than most other big tools. I have one from around 1919 and see older ones still come up now and again.

The slower speed is important for cutting steels and harder thicker metals. Mild steel being cut at low speeds stays cooler and takes of bigger bits of metal than at high speeds. At higher speeds it may just change the temper of the blade or the piece being cut and dull quickly without cutting. It is also good to have a strong frame and a bimetal blade for steel. Softer metals like aluminum brass copper and plastic/ wood can get away with and can cut cleaner/faster higher speeds.

There are some odd ball special ac motors that have variable speeds but the preferred method are DC motors or speed stepping pulleys or as also mentioned vfd controlled 3 phase motors (3 phase seem to be the best option for saws that already had the big motors.) DC motors will need a digital controller ideally and unless you get them from a lower power treadmill they can be pricey.

 

[Jere]

CT: ..

just an FYI i tend not to post what i paid or sold items for unless a member i know has one to sell or wants to buy one then i'll PM him or her to help. i don't need the You **** because i bought a tool for $10 that's worth $100 or having a relative of somebody that just passed away seeing the chatter. i don't always buy stuff on pennies to the dollar, but if a seller needs to move some stuff that i might be able to use (eventually) at a good price i'll probably buy it all. then maybe sell what i don't need later when i get time.
...

That's an interesting perspective, but personally i like to share the prices because it helps others find a fair market value. And if I overpay for something I would like to keep from doing so in the future, and learn from the mistake. It is fun to congratulate someone on a good deal too I feel it goes along with the natural hunter gather instict we all have. When we give others value we value ourselves at the same time ( this really is a neat neurological effect as well as a social grace)

 

[CoolTool]

CT: i just read and looked at the pictures of your bandsaws and love that Beaver. is it fair to say that you like bandsaws or is that you really like old tools in general?

your thoughts on having a different bandsaw for each type of metal or wood is sound if you have a lot of space and the jobs to keep them busy. i own two bandsaws and rarely use them so if i find a Beaver or an old Walker Turner i'll probably sell the two i own and make that one a metal and wood cutter with a DC motor or vfd on a 3 phase motor so i can adjust the speeds. since i won't be using mine much a little clean up when changing from metal to wood might not be too bad.

i'll check your long post later when i have time, but have to run to pick up some cement for a little project today.

nice posts and good idea for a thread.

Rick: what size motor are you going to put on your little lathe and any plans for it's use or will it just be a nice one to put on a shelf?

I just have a love for old tools and dream of a working shop with all kinds of them glimmering and gleaming at everyone who walks in. Also I love preserving the history taking a couple in disrepair and making one from both that lives on.

The only thing that scares me about a wood/metal is metal bits impregnating the wood. It's probably not that big of a deal since your not usually dealing with finished cuts with a band saw.

 

[CoolTool]

Lots of cool bandsaws! Its amazing to me how long bandsaws hang around more than most other big tools. I have one from around 1919 and see older ones still come up now and again.

The slower speed is important for cutting steels and harder thicker metals. Mild steel being cut at low speeds stays cooler and takes of bigger bits of metal than at high speeds. At higher speeds it may just change the temper of the blade or the piece being cut and dull quickly without cutting. It is also good to have a strong frame and a bimetal blade for steel. Softer metals like aluminum brass copper and plastic/ wood can get away with and can cut cleaner/faster higher speeds.

There are some odd ball special ac motors that have variable speeds but the preferred method are DC motors or speed stepping pulleys or as also mentioned vfd controlled 3 phase motors (3 phase seem to be the best option for saws that already had the big motors.) DC motors will need a digital controller ideally and unless you get them from a lower power treadmill they can be pricey.

I never thought about the added heat being enough to change temper, glad you mentioned that. I noticed while cutting thicker aluminum with a 1750 rpm you need to use wax quite often to clear the saw teeth. If you don't aluminum gums up the blade creating friction and heat and I guess this is why it seems dull after improper lubrication. Thanks for that I definitely over looked that aspect of speed control.

 

[CoolTool]

That's an interesting perspective, but personally i like to share the prices because it helps others find a fair market value. And if I overpay for something I would like to keep from doing so in the future, and learn from the mistake. It is fun to congratulate someone on a good deal too I feel it goes along with the natural hunter gather instict we all have. When we give others value we value ourselves at the same time ( this really is a neat neurological effect as well as a social grace)

I agree I like finding deals and seeing what other people are paying for things. I don't however like getting in a price war debate because that's not really what this thread or it in general should be about. I created this thread to be a place for people to be proud of their restorations and old tools and show them off; as well as get tips that make them even better. So I will compramise on this issue and give the price to anyone on any tool I post privately.

You and Drivesitfar have solid points that give merit to both sides of this debate. I will keep the focus on the tools but feel free to request a price check on isle ###...

 

[zkling]

I think I've decided since I know 1750 rpm works good for aluminum with proper waxing. I will throw my 1.5hp 1750 rpm motor on the old delta bandsaw and make it souly aluminum. I won't be cutting thicker steel with a band saw I use a cut off disc or a plasma cutter. I have a 10" homecraft I will throw a dc motor on with speed control for sheet metal and copper sheet cutting. Then my other 14" Rockwell will be souly wood so I don't end up with aluminum shaving in my wood work or have to swap blades when I need to resaw. And now I just need to figure out what to do with my 14" beaver cast aluminum band saw got that just because I loved the look. The newer 14" General international I might just sell, it just dosnt seem to run as smooth as the oldies.

Is this the proper arrangement for purposing these tools or would one be better or worse for a given tasks?
Wondering what you all think?

Couple things. For band saw or any cutting tool the final speed is measured in SFPM (Surface Feet Per Minute) which is a linear velocity from a angular velocity. Most wood saws stock are in the 2500-3000SFPM range with a 1725RPM motor. For good metal cutting (not friction cutting) you want blade speeds in the 100-300SFPM range. So around a 30:1 to 10:1 reduction on top of the current reduction. You really need a gearbox to accomplish this. Although a large enough DC motor and speed controller can get you there.

If I was you, I would put the DC motor or a gear box on your least favorite 14" saw and use it only for metal cutting. You have the right idea, it is no fun to cut wood and metal on the same saw, especially if you care about the wood project. Now if you are just hacking up 4x4's for cribbing that is a different story.

That's an interesting perspective, but personally i like to share the prices because it helps others find a fair market value. And if I overpay for something I would like to keep from doing so in the future, and learn from the mistake. It is fun to congratulate someone on a good deal too I feel it goes along with the natural hunter gather instict we all have. When we give others value we value ourselves at the same time ( this really is a neat neurological effect as well as a social grace)

I agree with you but read between the lines, dealer vs user. There are a lot of dealers on this forum.

 

[CoolTool]

Couple things. For band saw or any cutting tool the final speed is measured in SFPM (Surface Feet Per Minute) which is a linear velocity from a angular velocity. Most wood saws stock are in the 2500-3000SFPM range with a 1725RPM motor. For good metal cutting (not friction cutting) you want blade speeds in the 100-300SFPM range. So around a 30:1 to 10:1 reduction on top of the current reduction. You really need a gearbox to accomplish this. Although a large enough DC motor and speed controller can get you there.

If I was you, I would put the DC motor or a gear box on your least favorite 14" saw and use it only for metal cutting. You have the right idea, it is no fun to cut wood and metal on the same saw, especially if you care about the wood project. Now if you are just hacking up 4x4's for cribbing that is a different story.



I agree with you but read between the lines, dealer vs user. There are a lot of dealers on this forum.

Ya I know nothing about gear reduction at all. Is there a way to calculate how fast a saw will go with the rpms and pulley diameter? It seemed like you are really checked out on this, it would be great if you could explain further about gear reduction and how one can accomplish this in different ways. I do know that the saws I use with 1750rpm with wax cut perfectly and fast through aluminum only. I don't know if the pulley size makes this work.

 

[zkling]

Please do a search, this gets rehashed at least once a month on here.

This would be a good start.

http://www.garagejournal.com/2015/02/vintage-craftsman-bandsaw-dc-conversion/

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280823&page=2

 

[CoolTool]

Please do a search, this gets rehashed at least once a month on here.

This would be a good start.

http://www.garagejournal.com/2015/02/vintage-craftsman-bandsaw-dc-conversion/

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280823&page=2

Ya I'm having trouble with my searching. I think it's because I use my phone. Drivesitfar already showed me those threads great info. I was just a little more curious about pulley size in relation to speed. Like if I set up reduction options with say a three pulley system. Knowing what size to make each pulley to optimize a certain material cutting speed. Ex. 1size for wood/steel/aluminum. I suppose a gear box solves this issue with ease and the fact that it can be easily sealed from falling debris. I will do some more research on this when I get some time thanks for the links.

Zkling I was just on CL would this work?

http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/tls/4988180670.html

 

[drivesitfar]

CT: Drill presses are one tool that go back and forth from metal to wood fairly easily with smaller belts like some of the ones on this show your drill press thread. since the blades are a not as stout on most of the smaller bandsaws slower speeds with bigger belts is about the only option without a DC or 3 phase motor where you can adjust the speeds of the motors.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116677&highlight=drill+press+show

Jere: i have never (almost never) not told someone a price of something I've bought if they PM'd me and were planning on buying it or selling theirs. does value really come in to play when some member brags about how they bought a $200 Wilton for $5 from a kid or widow of an old machinist or handyman? there used to be more posts about how great deals were and the bragging about them than actual talk about the tool.

besides i usually buy a lot of my items from relatives that have just lost a loved one or has one dying of cancer and is about to pass on. or the actual person that only has a few days or months to live so i buy bulk items that i might not use any or even be able to resell them. or i'll get a call to buy something they don't know how to move and they would rather give it to me rather than try to sell it or have it rusting in a field. my 2 cents about bragging about what you paid for something as being of value to other members.

this subject started and hopefully will end when CT said what he paid for when he bought a nice old tool. it might be a lot rarer in his area than in ZK's so mention was made about spending too much. As much as i like ZK i have never agreed with his pricing and that's his opinion. obviously CT knows the value of a bandsaw in his area and rarity or he's learning quickly because he owns more of them than most of us do. also some members value their time to look for a good deal so searching for a great deal and bragging about it should include the hours spent looking for it. even at minimum wage you'd be surprised how much some YOU **** deals cost.

it's not easy handing somebody money that is going to die in a month or two and then bragging about what that deal is. Hell i just had my cat die in my arms and it killed me. my 2 cents is give that widow or her kids fair value for their tools if you are able to when they hold a sale to get the house ready to sell to pay medical bills. if a seller is selling his or her rusty tools so they can buy beer then give them a low offer because they deserve one.

ALL: sorry CT and other members for the little YOU **** pricing rant and let's get back to slowing down your wood bandsaws or making one metal and one for wood. I'm mainly talking about person to person purchases and sales and not buying a great deal from a company or a store that passed on a deal.

 

[torqueman2002]

Nice thread, I have been wondering how to use a band saw for metal and wood.

As to the posting of prices -
I am guilty of posting prices, but never have I taken advantage of a widow or child selling tools from their loved one's estate.

I'll reference CM Block grinders, since I have some experience buying and selling them in the SE Michigan area.

The price depends upon condition of course, but also the location. In this area, there are relatively more of the Block grinders than other parts of the country.

In one case, where I bought a Block grinder and CM stand, I paid double what a daughter wanted for her dad's Snap On tool cart.

I advised her that if she had any SO tools, double the price she thought they were worth.

Just my thoughts.

Good thread, oops there I go repeating myself.

 

[Jere]

Not to drag this idea on, upon request. I guess I can see merits either way with sharing pricing. Though I do love getting tools with a history and mostly have experiences with buying machines that are more of a burden for the sellers than the sellers that are in need.

Back on topic, another possibility I have thought of using, rather than a traditional gear box might be a shopsmith, or a shopsmith speed reduction box. Just using the headstock from the shopsmith on one machine or moving the band saw to the shopsmith could have a few benefits. These machines are multi purpose hobbist wood working machines. The use ac motors an have variable speed range (much like like a cvt auto transmission. ). Step pulleys can be run off of the headstock for even more range in speeds. The ss machines come up for under 100 dollars around me quite a bit so there is some savings to be had potentially. Some ingenuity would be required but its just brainstorming.

For an extremly comprehensive idea about cutting speeds to material google image search "bandsaw cutting speed chart" . there are speeds for everything from Bakelite to specific hardnesses of steel, pretty much anything you could want to cut.

 

[CoolTool]

CT: Drill presses are one tool that go back and forth from metal to wood fairly easily with smaller belts like some of the ones on this show your drill press thread. since the blades are a not as stout on most of the smaller bandsaws slower speeds with bigger belts is about the only option without a DC or 3 phase motor where you can adjust the speeds of the motors.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116677&highlight=drill+press+show

That is a great thread... I have a few drill press pics to post later as this thread deals with a few pending ideas.

Post some pics of your restorations guys...

And I am going to start drawing up a design to gear that delta 14" in a similar way drill press pulleys work.

"Jere" I looked up band saw cutting speed chart that's the keywords that bring home the bacon. I think I have enough info to start my repurpose restore. Thanx again all.

Pics to follow

"Torqueman2002" those are really nice looken benchgrinders in that url I have an old Delco from the early seventies I'll put a pic up soon.

 

[zkling]

Ya I'm having trouble with my searching. I think it's because I use my phone. Drivesitfar already showed me those threads great info. I was just a little more curious about pulley size in relation to speed. Like if I set up reduction options with say a three pulley system. Knowing what size to make each pulley to optimize a certain material cutting speed. Ex. 1size for wood/steel/aluminum. I suppose a gear box solves this issue with ease and the fact that it can be easily sealed from falling debris. I will do some more research on this when I get some time thanks for the links.

Zkling I was just on CL would this work?

http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/tls/4988180670.html

Linked ad was deleted, what was it for?

For belt drives just remember output rpm = input rpm * (input diameter/output diameter). The problem with using just a belt reduction is the large ratio needed and the torque transmitted to go along with that. If all you are cutting is thinner aluminum and don't mind the noise. Just keep the stock speed or a little less and keep the blade lubed.

 

[drivesitfar]

ALL: i bought this 1950's Craftsman table saw from a 75 year old client that has restored many many old tools. he was selling all his shop's tools so he could move into a condo and i was lucky enough to buy a few of those too.

I have an original Craftsman table saw stand i'll be installing under this saw and if i move i'll make a bench and build it into a table if i don't get a bigger saw. this is a nice saw.

 

[CoolTool]

"Zkling" it was a 40-1 gear reduction box. Was up for a month musta just sold.

"Drivesitfar" those are such good looken saws a lot of shiny bling. I have a similar one without the pattern on the body. Yours is far cooler. And the original stand is rare at least around me that's gunna look sweet.

Dam back to work today... I sure didn't miss it, I like worken on my own projects not other people's...

I talked to my machinist busy today he said they make self gearing pulleys, a tapers pull that pinches the belt at different places with a spring screw. Looking into this option he was saying all the newer industrial drill presses come with them now rather then having to reposition the pulley on another sized pulley.. anyone know about these new self adjusting pulleys?

 

[zkling]

Yes, they are called CVT's, again they are not great for a large speed range. The suffer from the same inherent limitations of a conventional fixed sheave and belt drive. They are new from ~1960

 

[CoolTool]

Yes, they are called CVT's, again they are not great for a large speed range. The suffer from the same inherent limitations of a conventional fixed sheave and belt drive. They are new from ~1960

That's funny goes to show you how old the tools I have used in my lifetime are lol, I'm really fighting the DC motor idea trying to do it mechanically with unlimited speed control is turning out to be harder than I thought. I can't give up yet but I may end up doing it with a constant current controller in the end. It sure would be nice to dial in the speed as you feed to the perfect speed. There has to be another way I did mention it to an electrician who said he knows how to do it with brushless 110v ac motors then he tried to explain and I almost fell asleep. It was a long winded explanation above my pay grade. I also read some things on using a single phase to start a three phase and then you could regulate the speed off the three phase motor. I have about 25 three phase motors collecting dust so this option seemed to warrant some further research as well.

 

[CoolTool]

That's a design for an expanding pulley, it would be fun to build but I can see it being a problem...