The VISES of Garage Journal

[CwazyWabbit]

Thought I'd show off my newly painted and new to me Record 112 vice

....

A bit disappointed with the 112 I painted 4 months ago as rust is coming out through the paint
When I bought this vice it had been repainted and rust was coming out through the paint down the front side of the vices main body.
I wire wheeled the vice back to bare but rust is returning in the same place, I suppose I'll need to put it in the e-tank to get the rust out of it before I re-paint it .....
I'm also wondering if perhaps it had some chemical spilled down the vice at some point? Hopefully the action of the e-tank will clean any out if it has.

 

[jreb10]

That looks great can I get some more details on the paint? I'm working on a 5196 and would like some options.

I like to try to match original paint before I remove the last vestiges of it, so I at least have that as an option for a paint color. For the 519x series, I looked at every photo of old original vises I could find as well.

It seems like they may have come in two colors, or the color was changed at some point in time. There is a very dark gray with a bluish look, and a lighter blue as far as I can tell.

Both of my 519x vises were originally the dark gray-blue. The 5191 had a few streaks of this paint preserved somewhat on the dynamic jaw where the lead screw inserts.

After looking at many spray paint samples I found that Valspar Cobalt Cannon #85041 seemed like a pretty close match. Please bear in mind that this is based on a sample size of two vises with very small original paint remnants.

I don't have a 519x with the original light blue, but working off of images (that may distort the color) I think the best spray paint match is Rustoleum 2X Satin Wildflower Blue #249062.

I might also add that I don't seem to recognize color matches very well. I have to hold the samples right next to one another in different lights to be sure of how they compare.

Good luck in your restoration and I look forward to seeing the finished vises posted here!

 

[Fretters]

A bit disappointed with the 112 I painted 4 months ago as rust is coming out through the paint
When I bought this vice it had been repainted and rust was coming out through the paint down the front side of the vices main body.
I wire wheeled the vice back to bare but rust is returning in the same place, I suppose I'll need to put it in the e-tank to get the rust out of it before I re-paint it .....
I'm also wondering if perhaps it had some chemical spilled down the vice at some point? Hopefully the action of the e-tank will clean any out if it has.

That old Parkinson woodwork vice of mine was something like that. It wanted to rust at a rate of knots when bare, and it wasn't just flash rust. A coating of Linseed oil worked well at stopping it though. I had the same thought about something leeching into the metal. Electrolysis made no difference to it though, it seemed.

I use raw thinned with gum turpentine on mine rather than boiled, btw, then just leave it overnight or longer and wipe off excess.

 

[joe.striper]

he doe's a nice job on his vises, i thought he went by his name on ebay. I knew it had to be a member, I don't get on here as much as i use to been busy with the grand kids ball games

Ted, that vise on Ebay is a 26X, the 'X' is a heavy duty designation. This vise is pre 1900. The X series later became the Eclipse series.

As to the weight, The only way to weigh it is to take it apart and weigh the parts separately. The weight is accurate. I have an Athol 626 that is 190 lbs as well, not like those wimpy 150lb Wilton 6" Bullets!

 

[veltex]

A little help on the current ballpark value range for a pretty clean Parker 955? Thanks in advance

 

[wrenchguy]

Ted, I have an Athol 626 that is 190 lbs as well, not like those wimpy 150lb Wilton 6" Bullets!

^ this,

 

[torqueman2002]

.....
"... wimpy 150lb Wilton 6" Bullets! "

 

[torqueman2002]

Also sold under the Hi-Test brand. Look on the top of the jaw plates for the date of mfg (looks painted over).
...http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1188689

scrounge - Thanks! Good reading and a number of pictures.

 

[tedsters]

Ted, that vise on Ebay is a 26X, the 'X' is a heavy duty designation. This vise is pre 1900. The X series later became the Eclipse series.

As to the weight, The only way to weigh it is to take it apart and weigh the parts separately. The weight is accurate. I have an Athol 626 that is 190 lbs as well, not like those wimpy 150lb Wilton 6" Bullets!

Sounds like you need a new scale Joe if you have to take it apart to weigh it, although i guess i take myself apart also when i get on the scales too, shoes, coat, any weight possible to make it read less
that is a nice vise, the X Series are semi steel ain't they

 

[KMScott]

Very, very nice Kevin. Did you have to mill the bottom smooth on that Parker?

Yes I did, just could not see a casted surface that sits on a flat bench without fixing it. Why Parker did not do this at the factory is anyones quess.

 

[torqueman2002]

Torqueman,

It's a Bison FPU. Polish made and an interesting vise. They were sold stateside under the name Fowler or at least is was a near exact clone.

I followed some of the image links from Google search, for Bison FPU.

Here's one of the original paint with a decal.

I can't say what grabbed my attention - the GO BLUE or the great color choice for the Bison.

I followed Google's link to the web page that brought me back to this thread, but not where the images were posted.

So, thank you to whoever originally posted the pictures. I'll take them down if you wish.

 

[highdesignfool]

Yep.

 

[highdesignfool]

It's a 4 1/2" jaw

 

[highdesignfool]

I picked this old krusty 3 1/2" Wilton out of the trash at my work. How do I determine what model it is?
The cast inner ring to the swivel base is broken in 4 pieces. It has a number 101088. Any idea where it find such a thing?
Thanks. This is a cool place! I love all these old vises.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

That old Parkinson woodwork vice of mine was something like that. It wanted to rust at a rate of knots when bare, and it wasn't just flash rust. A coating of Linseed oil worked well at stopping it though. I had the same thought about something leeching into the metal. Electrolysis made no difference to it though, it seemed.

I use raw thinned with gum turpentine on mine rather than boiled, btw, then just leave it overnight or longer and wipe off excess.

I was wondering if perhaps it had brake fluid spilled down it in a previous life? It's strange as the rust coming out through the paint is really just on the front face of the main body, there are one or two chips in the paint in other places on the vice, they haven't rusted at all and there was only very light surface rust on the bare slide.

All a bit strange, the other vices that were standing next to it don't seem to have suffered either.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

I picked this old krusty 3 1/2" Wilton out of the trash at my work. How do I determine what model it is?
The cast inner ring to the swivel base is broken in 4 pieces. It has a number 101088. Any idea where it find such a thing?
Thanks. This is a cool place! I love all these old vises.

Judging from the 5 welds already on that ring this is not the first time it broke either. I wonder if it's purely down to abuse or if there is something else?

 

[highdesignfool]

Don't know it's history, but it's probably seen some abuse

 

[FMC1959]

Plenty of nice vise's being showed tonight, thought I would add my Parker 954-1/2 I wrapped up this week. This vise was coated with 3/8 thick syrup of some kind, missing a collar and some one clamped on a round object and squashed the serrations.

<a href="http://visejaws.smugmug.com/Restored-Vises/i-8DZktD5/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img src="http://visejaws.smugmug.com/Restored-Vises/i-8DZktD5/0/M/Parker%20954-500%2005-2015%20%281%29-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"></a>

fabricated a new set of jaws, tightened up the backlash and made a collar. It still needs some fitting, since it is a little tight yet.

<a href="http://visejaws.smugmug.com/Restored-Vises/i-tjMd77k/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img src="http://visejaws.smugmug.com/Restored-Vises/i-tjMd77k/0/S/Parker%20954-500%2005-2015%20%284%29-S.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"></a> <a href="http://visejaws.smugmug.com/Restored-Vises/i-qrCTrm2/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img src="http://visejaws.smugmug.com/Restored-Vises/i-qrCTrm2/0/S/Parker%20954-500%2005-2015%20%285%29-S.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"></a>


Got them jaws figured out, getting a little easier as I do more.

Another great job Kevin. These jaws look like they have more color and are darker than your others, did you change something in the process? I have heard you mention that you leave some color on the jaws for the look/effect, which I like very much.

Being clear shiny steel or some color, to a lot of color, does this change the harness in any way or is it strictly a look?

 

[drivesitfar]

HDF: can you post a few more pictures of the red vise from the right side of the vise with the jaws shut and open? any writing on it or any #'s?

that Wilton is a C1 which is or was a great vise. it looks like it might be missing the end part that holds the vise nut in place besides having the swivel's guts broken. you might need the help of KMScott our Reverend and resident vise part whittler who just posted a Parker he brought back from the dead. PM him or he has a web site www.wiltonviseparts.net

that Wilton might be able to be saved and definitely good for a parts vise and good you grabbed it out of the trash.

TM: the vise bug has bitten you or maybe it was the Go Blue sign, but you can't go to far wrong buying a 6 inch Bison FPU.

Joe: you might want to just put the vise on the scale instead of with it in your arms. or get a bigger scale.

 

[FMC1959]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301634498903 nice parker 6in. i didn't know they made a 6in parker that weighed 195# must be semi steel or a miastake in the print, i thought more like 165#
is this a GJ Member

In the 165 range would have been the Eclipse vise, the heavier Superior vise was in the 185to 190 range.

Here is a post showing what a Superior looks like
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2439972&postcount=4895

And here is an explanation from Catalyze on how the Eclipse and Superior differ. (too bad we do not here from him anymore, he had both a great collection a fantastic knowledge of vises overall...hope all is well with him)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2440269&postcount=4908

Somewhere in earlier pages he had an even more descriptive explanation of the difference in the 2 models, but could not find it.

 

[FMC1959]

Organizing garage, going through all the junk. Funny how there is a story with each one. The twin Prentiss's were purchased in the teens by one guy at a local hardware store. He was ticked off when he couldn't get two exactly the same. Ended up with old generation and new at the time. Both are heavy chipping vises, the new one only has a few markings but know for sure a Prentiss from the supporting story and saw the receipt. Both are 8.5" and slightly over 300lbs were both privately used by one guy that had a couple bulldozers. Of course sold by a grandson. Rock Island 8.5", 305 lbs from another grandfather / grandson that got it out of a train / WWII tank manufacturing facility in Berwick, PA unknown years ago. Another Prentiss 8.5" out of an Altoona train manufacturing facility, (300+ lb vises are really trying to move around whole). Morgan 8" 80 (not that old but with a unique base) was traded in a bar in Detroit for $50 and a six pack. Reed 8" 208 out of a steel mill in Youngstown, OH. Really lucky in no repairs, cracks chips or damage. Only a little minor handle straitening over the years. Chas Parker 956, Colombian 606 (out of a mill in Cleveland OH) was bummed when I got it home to find a cracked nut...a little digging contacted an obviously from the voice alone old gun in KC MO who knew immediately exactly what I had and needed. He asked how many do I want...of course I bought 2 who wouldn't for 20 bucks each. Hollands 26H, 54H and a reed 205.5. I only included the 8"+ stuff. 5 and 6" stuff is nice, practical but also plentiful for the most part. Even though I still can't ever seem to pass a good one up. There is something very American/patriotic about this old junk.

Somebody contact Demoman, tell him we have found his long lost brother!

 

[bluebolt]

Just thought I would share a little, picked this up last week, pretty plain No. 4 (3-47). I think I prefer an original finish instead of restored but this thing was painted kind of a John Deere green and not very well, everything was painted- everything! So a little bit of clean up and early color, a rookie job for sure but it will do. I am thinking of "distressing" it a little so the look is more to my liking, or maybe just use it while.

Nice job Veltex! I added your date to the Wilton Date database.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XPd0wMd6vseGwtNc0_PCa6jPnCfZ1YHWZppnqi2FM60/edit#gid=0

 

[bluebolt]

On that 6" Reed a few pages back since it doesn't have the rear foot for the third mounting bolt on the main body maybe it is the last of the 206's?

 

[KMScott]

Another great job Kevin. These jaws look like they have more color and are darker than your others, did you change something in the process? I have heard you mention that you leave some color on the jaws for the look/effect, which I like very much.

Being clear shiny steel or some color, to a lot of color, does this change the harness in any way or is it strictly a look?

I am at the mercy of the Heat Treater for what color I get. If the jaws are on the bottom of the basket then it is a darker color, top much brighter. I have him use Nitrogen in the annealing process when he does all my jaws instead of Argon or another inert gas mixture. The annealing temperature for A2 is around 1000 degrees. This is one reason I like A2, it can handle a little torch work on your vise with out drawing back the 54-56 Rockwell I like these treated to. Another nice feature of Airhard tool steel is it is very stable and comes back to me about as flat as I sent it to him un-like oil hardening tool steel that twists and warps. Thanks for kudos FMC.

 

[Lu-Max]

Joe: you might want to just put the vise on the scale instead of with it in your arms. or get a bigger scale.

Else get a hanging digital scale and a hoisting strap. I use a heavier duty version of THIS one. There are several different models of them just on eBay. Then I lift them using my shop crane (i.e. engine hoist). The STRAP is $11 at HF.

 

[sbosecker]

Well, so much for that theory, it clearly is cast iron. Square cutouts for the carriage bolts seem like they were made for a larger bolt, hence the welds I guess.
Jim

Jim,

This post isn't directed at you specifically - tagging this post to your response seemed like the most coherent way to update my Yost 33C information.

I ordered a set of Swivel Locks & bolts from Yost about a week ago. They were $12.50 for each set (carriage bolts come with them) + $7 postage.

I really didn't want the carriage bolts as I assumed I could replace those with hardware store items for a fraction of the "Yost Cost". However, that wasn't an option. They come as a set.

The Swivel Lock sets arrived yesterday. I knew I needed to do some work on the old bolt heads with a pneumatic cutter. It seemed like it would help to hit the old bolt heads with a wire wheel to knock off the rust and be able to see things a little better.

To my surprise, with the rust off the bolt head, there was now a number visible that matched the numbers on the new carriage bolts exactly. So - apparently - the old bolts were original equipment.

After some work with the cutter and the angle grinder, the bolts & welds were removed. The new hardware was installed and the new bolts work fine to hold the vise in place. So far I don't see why the previous owner thought welds were necessary.

Prior to yesterday I had picked up a 3-foot length of 3/4" Steel Rod from a local Fastenal store. I had cut 13-inches from that rod and added a couple of 3/4-inch rubber tips from a hardware store to make a temporary vise handle.

I managed to break the jaw screws loose with a Harbor Freight T-Handle 1/4" Hex Wrench. I was really leaning on that wrench and either I'm a wimp or that Harbor Freight tool is much stouter than I ever expected it to be.

New 5/16-18 x 3/4" screws were procured for the removable jaws from a local hardware store.

So I'm about ready to take this thing apart and prep it for a new paint job. One last task remains and I'm looking for advice.

Is there a trick to removing the pins that hold the pipe jaws? I've been tapping a little with a hammer and punch but I'm wondering if there's another method for this situation. I've been searching Garage Journal for info but, so far, I haven't found anything.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[Lu-Max]

Would you make a >3 hour, ~170 mile round-trip drive for this one at $40? Sure wish it was closer.

 

[oldldh]

Would you make a >3 hour, ~170 mile round-trip drive for this one at $40? Sure wish it was closer.

If I "Had to have a Yost 32C"...

I would...

Otherwise...

Nope...

However, if it was a 5196/7/8...

Yep...

 

[Lu-Max]

Plus it's not a drive across Kansas, it would be through SF Bay area traffic.

Maybe vises need a "What would you do for a XXXX vise?" rating, like the Klondike Bar commercial.

 

[zoomieport]

Plenty of nice vise's being showed tonight, thought I would add my Parker 954-1/2 I wrapped up this week. This vise was coated with 3/8 thick syrup of some kind, missing a collar and some one clamped on a round object and squashed the serrations.Got them jaws figured out, getting a little easier as I do more.

That is BEAUTIFUL, Kevin!

 

[SAATR]

Did some disassembly and cleaning in the 800N today. Pulled the dynamic jaw out and cleaning off the key with red scotchbrite and parts cleaner, but didn't find a date code.



Found that the back cap only had one pin holding it on, and a pretty beat up pin at that. Anybody know where I can get just the pins?

Anyway, took the cap off and pulled the nut out. Found this cast into it:



I know the number on the right is the part number, but what is M1? Date code of some sort? Casting batch?

I cleaned the slide and the slide bore with scotchbrite, brake clean, and paper towel. Little bit Qf my bench grinder stand:



I scrubbed up the outside and cleaned the serration on the jaws out with a razor knife. A couple of flattened spots but nothing too bad. I think they will be serviceable for a while yet. I tried to smooth out some dings and raised spots on the top edge of the jaw insert with a mill file and found out just how hard that steel is! I'll have to used my die grinder with a flapper wheel in the future.

You guys do some very pretty work! I don't think I could bring myself to use vises that were that nice!

 

[ritzblitz]

Traded a rusty post vise for this earlier this morning.

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Well done !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JZiggy]

Finally, I get to be the first.

 

[Shiftless]

JZ: Yost 32C for $40?? YOU ****!

 

[JZiggy]

The 32C is 75 pounds. Put it on the bathroom scale.

 

[drivesitfar]

JZ: after you clean off several layers of paint and crud and grease it probably still weighs over 70 pounds and i do like those old combination vises. JZ did you join under another name so you can give yourself a YouSuck because i can't say I've seen a new member get on board and give one?

Shiftless: if you are a new member and not JZ then welcome to group and it looks like you already know what a good deal is. welcome

SAA: can you post more pictures of your big Wilton with it's slide that doesn't have date on it in the Wilton date stamp thread when you get a chance over in the vintage tool section? we are thinking the vises without dates were sold to Uncle Sam in WWII 1941-1945 so yours might be an old vise or maybe it just wore off.

 

[wrenchguy]

Yes I did, just could not see a casted surface that sits on a flat bench without fixing it. Why Parker did not do this at the factory is anyones quess.

i believe it warps slightly over the years, even bolted down

 

[Lu-Max]

Congrats JZiggy, too far of a drive for me.

 

[JZiggy]

Congrats JZiggy, too far of a drive for me.

Between you, Jeff, and I we have the bay area covered. It was a 30 min drive for me.