Garage ceiling modification for New 4-Post Lift

[kbuhagiar]

Hello Folks,

Our recently purchased retirement home has a three-car garage. I am interested in installing a 4-post lift in the farthest stall (with the single door). Current ceiling clearance is a tad under 10 feet.

I am interested in possibly modifying the ceiling structure to provide more vertical clearance. Based on the pictures provided can anyone tell me if this if possible and how difficult it would be?

View to far end of garage; single door stall is the farthest away, adjacent to window.

As you can see, all of the rafters run from front to back the entire length of the garage. I would only need to modify the ones directly above the farthest (single door) parking stall.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

 

[JACDes]

simple enough if you know the foot print of the 4 post lift

you can just make a headered opening.

good luck

 

[pattenp]

Can you provide a clearer more detailed picture of the roof structure?

 

[Chevy-SS]

Basically, if you have the vertical space available above the lift (to cut and brace the necessary opening), it can be done, it would just be a matter of cost.

But you definitely need to post more info. Maybe a pic from the outside....

-

 

[bczygan]

Anything is possible.

You need better photos of the roof framing in that area and measurements and load requirements, to be able to do calculations.

 

[kbuhagiar]

Basically, if you have the vertical space available above the lift (to cut and brace the necessary opening), it can be done, it would just be a matter of cost.

But you definitely need to post more info. Maybe a pic from the outside....

Thanks to all for the responses so far.

My apologies for the inadequate pictures. They were taken before we purchased the property and were not specific to the lift installation; and unfortunately I will not be back at the property for several weeks.

I found two other pictures taken from the outside:

After some online research, and a quick review of roof structure architecture, it appears that what I have is similar to the diagram below:

The only difference is that in my garage I have a single kingpost extending vertically from the center of each bottom cord (joist?) to the peak.

Hope this helps; I will post more specific pictures as soon as I can

Thanks again.

 

[Theruse]

If your main goal is storage 10ft should work if neither one of the cars is an SUV.Tight but doable. From your diagram looks like you have trusses while your photo shows what appears to be 2'x6's. Easier to box out a section if they weren't trusses, but still possible.

 

[gungatim]

it can and has been done. do a search. several threads on here with examples on how some of us have done it. every situation is different and requires knowledge of structural engineering to properly design what you want to do. if you don't posess that knowledge, hire an engineer.

 

[kbuhagiar]

UPDATE:

With the help of an assistant on site we have verified that I do have traditional rafter construction in my garage (not trusses).

Apparently what I thought were king posts are just 2 x 4s running vertically to the ridge board.

I'm learning something new every day, and am becoming more impressed with all of the minute details of garage architecture!

 

[bczygan]

UPDATE:

With the help of an assistant on site we have verified that I do have traditional rafter construction in my garage (not trusses).

Apparently what I thought were king posts are just 2 x 4s running vertically to the ridge board.

I'm learning something new every day, and am becoming more impressed with all of the minute details of garage architecture!

Yes, you do.

This means the that lower, horizontal member (A ceiling joist), is in tension.
If you remove it, the walls are pushed out by the rafters (The sloping members).

So you need a combination of methods to box out an area for the vehicle to be lifted in.

You need to determine how big the boxed in area needs to be and how high the clearance needs to be.

Then there are ways to reinforce the structure around the proposed box, including sheeting the existing and added framing, so loads are transferred around the boxed area, where joists were removed.

There are examples here on GJ. Someone will come up with a link.

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Essentially what you are going to need to do, is to stiffen up the joist and rafters on either side of the proposed opening, by adding framing and cladding them with plywood that is screwed and glued, making the entire assembly into a truss. This will make it more rigid, reducing the outward thrust of the rafters on the front and rear walls.

In the area where you are going to remove ceiling joists, you are going to provide collar ties or rafter ties for those rafters and sheet them as well. You can also sheet the bottom of those ties, to form the ceiling of the box.

At the front and back of this box, you want to create a horizontal box beam, to reinforce the outside walls front and rear. So some framing and sheathing here will do that.

I know you don't understand all this, but photos of some that have been done will help.

 

[bczygan]

Here's one thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251077&highlight=remove+trusses

 

[bczygan]

Some more info:

http://www.nachi.org/collar-rafter-ties.htm

 

[mx185sw]

here is what i did with mine to increase the clearance. worked out well.

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[pattenp]

You can raise the bottom of the ceiling joist up to 1/3 of the roof height. See diagram below.

 

[kbuhagiar]

I greatly appreciate the replies so far!

This is exactly what I was looking for. This information, combined with my research, has given me a pretty good idea of my options.

Before proceeding, I will be consulting with a structural engineer to confirm compliance with local building codes (Tuolumne County, CA).

Thanks Again Garage Journal Nation!

 

[buzz4041]

I planned mine out and installed all of the new installation framing before I ever made a cut on the existing.