VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[CwazyWabbit]

I think I'd have left the whole undrilled as it's a bit of a quirk. My understanding for drilling cast iron is that you shouldn't use a lubricant at all.

 

[vintage nut]

I considered that, but its going to be a user, and I want to make sure it can be bolted down securely.
As for drilling cast iron, a lubricant isn't required, but it doesn't hurt anything. Even though I didn't really need to, I used it out of habit.

you can never have too many tools

 

[bagged89s10]

What does everybody use to fill holes or gouges in a non-structural part of a vise? I have a to fill a few small imperfections and holes before painting a few restorations.

 

[vintage nut]

I use a west system epoxy with two of their additives. It's a very low cost per volume, and worth it for me as I also use a lot for attaching knife handles, but after you buy a can of each part, the pumps, the additives, ect, you're looking over 100 bucks. But it will last a long time, plus its about the best epoxy available.
However, jb weld is almost the same stuff as the additives mixture I use, so for a small repair I'd probably use jb weld.

you can never have too many tools

 

[bagged89s10]

What's the trick to removing this stubborn bolt that holds the swivel base onto this Athol 623.


I tried a piece of 1/8" steel that fit and an adjustable wrench and the steel just bends.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

How about clamping the 1/8 steel between two bits of thicker steel so just enough is sticking out to fit into the screw?

 

[Fretters]

You can get driver bits with a 1/2" square shank, if I recall. One of those should easily be sturdy enough for the task.

The other option, (CW's method would likely do the job well too), would be to weld the steel strip to the inside, (else slit the sides of the socket with a grinder or hacksaw and drop the strip in), of a socket which is large enough to slip over the head. That should reinforce the steel strip enough to do the job.

 

[jakemac]

Weld a bar that fits the slot to a cheap hand impact driver and start playing Whack-A-Mole.

 

[bagged89s10]

How about clamping the 1/8 steel between two bits of thicker steel so just enough is sticking out to fit into the screw?

I like that idea. I can just weld it up I steal of clamping. Thanks for helping the brain fart

 

[bagged89s10]

You can get driver bits with a 1/2" square shank, if I recall. One of those should easily be sturdy enough for the task.



The other option, (CW's method would likely do the job well too), would be to weld the steel strip to the inside, (else slit the sides of the socket with a grinder or hacksaw and drop the strip in), of a socket which is large enough to slip over the head. That should reinforce the steel strip enough to do the job.

Slipping a steel strip in an old socket is a good idea too.

 

[JeremyBurke]

VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

Atlas x-y table reproduction vise jaws.

I need to begin by thanking some people

Outlaw: for alerting me to the group buy of recast jaws on owwm.org
Bob: at owwm.org for arranging the buy and getting new jaws cast.
My Buddy John at work for the machining advice.

One more caveat this is not Rev. Scott (chips) level work but I think it is pretty decent for a total hack like me. Now on with our show.


So about 2 months ago I received a package with these two reproduction cast jaws in it.



Once I cleared a few back logged projects I used a few of my lunch breaks to machine them into form.

Squaring the sides. I had to shim the rough castings in the mill vise to get it as square as possible.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/sqvMMw]

Once I had square sides to work with I clamped them up and used a 3/4" end to machine the bottom and working face of both jaw in a single setup.





I then used those faces as origins to drill all the mounting and clamping holes.











The final steps where making dynamic jaw plates and t-nuts from scratch.

I started with 3/8" CRS cut to size and machined on all for sides. I then faced it with a fly cutter.



Drilled and reamed some holes to accept Dowel pins.





I then pressed in the (frozen) dowel pins with a 0.0015-0.002" press fit.



Since the dynamic doesn't require tools to change out and I had the material tried something new to expand my skills.

Using some Angle blocks I clamped another jaw plate in the mill at 45 degrees and cut a groove to clamp round stock.







The last little job was turning some t-nuts on the lathe.





Here this parallel ensures the 2 flats are parallel to one another.



Here is the completed jaws on the x-y table on my Walker Turner DP. I need to clean up the table a little but it should be ready to put into service at this point.

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice job Jeremy!

 

[drivesitfar]

Jeremy: i know you've been working on getting that nice old Walker Turner Drill Press with the XY table vise to do some serious work for a while now. it almost looks like you made the new jaws from scratch and in any case that was an awesome post and even a better job.

that DP and vise set up should last you until you meet our maker. very nice.

Bagged: someone made a tool sort of like a big screwdriver and i haven't found it yet. CW's fix sounds like it might work. do you have a vise grip with the wide welding jaws on it to hold the piece of 1/4 inch plate?

 

[va.grouseman]

Thought I would add the brass Columbian as it progressed from start to finish.---Only things I made for it were the pipe jaws and the long set screw for the single pipe jaw.---It was so oxidized/froze that I rounded the hex head out, so had to drill it out and make another one.

Gave everything a white vinegar bath which softened the pink paint to where you could scrape it with your fingernail.---Did turn it rust red temporarily, but a cupped wire brush cleaned it up pretty good.---Could have went for the polished brass look, but the more I did to it the more the pecker tracks showed up.---Those Navy boys didn't treat it as gentle as I would have.---They used the back of the slide as an anvil and it was dished in about 1/4 of an inch.---I've beat steel out that wasn't that tough.---Beat on it for 4 days to get it back flush.---Cleaned the inside of the Static housing with regular wire brush.---It had 60 year old grease in it.

Two things I found when I cleaned some layers off was, (1) it had the model number cast and stamped inside the Static housing, and (2), the jaws are pined on, as you can see the brass pins in one of the pics.

 

[va.grouseman]

Some pics of the brass.

 

[bagged89s10]

Some pics of the brass.

Nice jaws. I have to make some pipe jaws for my Oswego but I've had too many projects. What did you do to cut nice even teeth?

 

[va.grouseman]

And a few more.

 

[va.grouseman]

And finally put back together.---There's only one color for a brass vise.---Hot pink, I mean brass/bronze.

 

[va.grouseman]

Bagged,---I use primitive tools.---First measured for the center between the V and each sharp edge.---Then a center mark between those two halves and then once again until there is about 3/16'' spacing between marks.---Then took a hacksaw and made an indention at each mark so as to hold the edge of a file in a straight line.---Then used the sharp edge of a 14 inch file and a lot of patience.---To be honest, with close inspection, they're not as symmetric as they look.---Not near what machined jaws look like.

You have to work on it a little and leave it, or you will scrap the project.---If you get half way, you will finish it.---If you try to do too much at one setting, you'll take a hammer to it.---Good luck.

 

[bagged89s10]

Bagged,---I use primitive tools.---First measured for the center between the V and each sharp edge.---Then a center mark between those two halves and then once again until there is about 3/16'' spacing between marks.---Then took a hacksaw and made an indention at each mark so as to hold the edge of a file in a straight line.---Then used the sharp edge of a 14 inch file and a lot of patience.---To be honest, with close inspection, they're not as symmetric as they look.---Not near what machined jaws look like.



You have to work on it a little and leave it, or you will scrap the project.---If you get half way, you will finish it.---If you try to do too much at one setting, you'll take a hammer to it.---Good luck.

I like your approach. My plan is similar. I was going to take my plasma and cut the basic shape. Then saw, grind, and file. My approach to true up the jaws on the Oswego is going to be even more fun. Grind, belt sand, and hand file the jaw serrations.

Good work on that vise!

 

[drivesitfar]

VA: thanks for posting your Brass Columbian vise. Can you post the jaw width and weight if you have that because I've never seen a 100% brass vise before. or for that matter i haven't seen a 100% stainless steel vise like your Morgan vise is so please post it if you like just to show it if you like.

nice work. are your fingers still sore? or just a bit stronger now?

 

[va.grouseman]

Yep Drive.---I forgot to post the weight and width of that vise.---The brass/bronze Columbian is 65 lbs. even, and has 4 1/2'' jaws, and the Morgan is 52.4 lbs., and has 4'' jaws.

And I forgot to post the pics of the Columbians Static interior.---I'm lucky I can find my way back home.







Here's a few of the stainless Morgan.











I bought both of those vises, convinced that they weren't what the sellers said they were.---Expected snake eyes, got 7s.

 

[drivesitfar]

VA: as much lawn as you have to mow and take care of i'm not surprised you don't know where home is. you did great on the specialty vises though and thanks for posting?

BTW did you hear Demo might be heading to see the 700 pound version of your little Pittsburgh RR vise?

thanks again and amazing vises

 

[va.grouseman]

Yea Drive, I heard he had a line on the 695 pounder, according to what some guy told him.---I hope it's for real.---Will give everyone renewed hope that some of the myths can be busted.---But you know yourself, what one person calls huge, another person calls an average size shop vise.---We'll see.

 

[drivesitfar]

VA: that would be two white whales in one year if the 695 shows its face. thanks for posting your cool and unique brass and stainless vises.

ALL: i just took apart my Reed 404.5 and it needed that large screwdriver we have been talking about. i forgot that i have some old school wrenches and that my old Craftsman set has this socket that worked like a charm. it might be a while before i get this vise cleaned up and put back together, but i'll do a before and after postings to show how it looks while i have them handy.

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 restoration part 2. more pictures as i take it apart. it was in good working condition when i traded it with another GJ member so it is coming apart nicely. swivel pin removed with ease, swivel jaw removed almost as easily, swivel base with the right tool to remove large screw easily removed. all that is left to take apart is to punch out the vise nut (spindle) pin so i can remove the vise nut from insides the static jaw.

first off i'm cleaning all the grease off with paper towels and i'm pretty sure this is going to be the first vise that i'll put in my E tank or i might wire wheel all the layers of paint off.

other than the handle being a little bent the vise is in good shape and should last several of my lifetimes

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 restoration part 3 with more pictures as i take it apart.

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 restoration part 4

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 restoration part 5

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 part 6

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 page 7

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 Page 8

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 Page 9

 

[drivesitfar]

Reed 404.5 Page 10

 

[vintage nut]

That's a real nice vise!
I have found my favorite way to clean up a vise is to soak it down with either purple super clean degreaser, or oven cleaner, let it sit for a while, then hose it off. Takes off all the grease, and often most of the paint. I have never tried the e tank, but I usually use a 5" makita rat tail grinder with a wire wheel. Makes very quick work of it. The rock island was small enough, so I bead blasted it.

I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

you can never have too many tools

 

[vintage nut]

And I believe that the tool you found is a drive link socket. My dad has one of those as well. They definitely can be useful!
Edit: although drive link socket is used as well, it seems drag link socket is the more proper name. I guess I missremembered it.

you can never have too many tools

 

[Outlawmws]

Yep, drag link socket for old school drag links that had an adjustable screw on the ball of the joint; sometimes a heavy spring as well. Still useful for other things at times and still sold. Fairly common to find at yard sales.

 

[DRRummel]

VISE REPAIR 101 - Main Nut removal

I am working with a Columbian 605-m2.

It has been used a lot. I see two issues.
1. When I change directions the handle will rotate 180* before the slack is is taken out.
2. The main nut will not come out the back. I have removed the stop pin. I then tried to drive it out from the front with a block of wood and a hammer. No movement. It is currently soaking in PB Blaster. Any other suggestions?

 

[JeremyBurke]

Nice job Jeremy!

Thanks Outlaw, and thanks again for pointing out the group buy. Also did you ever get your set and get them machined and ready for use?

 

[McBrownie]

ALL: i just took apart my Reed 404.5 and it needed that large screwdriver we have been talking about. i forgot that i have some old school wrenches and that my old Craftsman set has this socket that worked like a charm. it might be a while before i get this vise cleaned up and put back together, but i'll do a before and after postings to show how it looks while i have them handy.

Time for a photo caption contest

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