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Moving a Bridgport series 2

Monkey Milk

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Nov 18, 2012
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Hawaii
I never moved a mill before so I'm in for a treat. 4hp 5500# Series 2

I've read about rotating the head 180, block up on the table to help support head weight and block under knee for head and table support. Correct?


Questions,

Looks like the head is to big to rotate 180 and fit above the table?

Can I forklift under the ram to replace a damaged pallet or to move it, I know its possible on the series I but not sure on the series 2? That table, knee and column looks to heavy for those dovetails.

How hard would this be to move into position with rolling pipes?

I don't have any means of transport or moving into temp location, suggestions?

Anything else I need to know?


This will be only a resting place, it will be tear down and moved in a couple of months:(
 
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A_Pmech

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IL
Blocking under the knee is advisable to prevent Z nut damage, but rotating the head is not necessary or required. The machine experiences forces far in excess of the head weight when running a face mill or corncob rougher.

Forks under the ram works fine. Make sure the spider bolts are tight and block the forks with some 2x4 to prevent damage to the machine and provide some friction.

Not difficult, especially with a helper or a come along.

Sunbelt rents a double-axle drop deck trailer that works well for DIY machine moving.

I never moved a mill before so I'm in for a treat. 4hp 5500# Series 2

I've read about rotating the head 180, block up on the table to help support head weight and block under knee for head and table support. Correct?


Questions,

Looks like the head is to big to rotate 180 and fit above the table?

Can I forklift under the ram to replace a damaged pallet or to move it, I know its possible on the series I but not sure on the series 2? That table, knee and column looks to heavy for those dovetails.

How hard would this be to move into position with rolling pipes?

I don't have any means of transport or moving into temp location, suggestions?

Anything else I need to know?


This will be only a resting place, it will be tear down and moved in a couple of months:(
 
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Monkey Milk

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A Pmech,

Thanks for the answers.

I seen that you had one and hoped you chimed in. I got a whole bunch of questions for you but not at this time. I just want to get this thing home.

We don't have a sunbelt rental here. I need to find a rental company that has a drop deck trailer.

I don't know if my pop's tacoma can move a #5000 mill and trailer, that might be asking to much from it. lol
 
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Monkey Milk

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I did a search, all for a series 1 which is half the weight of this beast. Series 1 and clones are about #2100, Series 2 bridgeports are #4500+.

I just can't do the U-haul and engine hoist thing, I wish it was that easy.
 

IndyGarage

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Depending on where you are moving it from and to, you can move 5500lb manually, but it's very slow. Slopes and steps and things like that are problems.

I have a set of roller skates I bought from Northern tool that I moved a 12,000 lb machine with by myself, with no help. Jacked it up with a toe jack, put the skates under it, pushed it a few feet, jacked it up and adjusted the skates, moved it a few feet, etc.

Then I used a big forklift to load it onto a truck. It was a little tricky and slow, but I got it done.

I've learned several things about moving machines:
1. pay attention to the weather - I planned to move my KT mill for two weeks and as I was putting it on the open trailer a rogue 10 minute thunderstorm drenched everything, causing me to spend 2 hours drying and spraying about a gallong of wd-40 to fight off rust.

2. Take plenty of leverage - come alongs, prybars, hoists, chains, slings, straps - you can almost never have too much of that stuff. However, this is not the time to have too many people around. You don't want to watch after kids while you are moving something heavy - too many folks and somebody is going to be in danger or in the way - take plenty of machine/leverage help and 1-2 strong, sensible helpers. I almost always move things alone, so I don't have to worry about anyone else. It also forces me to think about every action because there's no recovery if I drop something on myself.

3. Be prepared to take stuff apart on the fly - have tools ready.

4. Be very careful about tipping. Machines can be top heavy. They can tip when you lift them, they can tip when you go around corners, when you have to stop fast. You don't want a loose 5500 lb machine. I usually put two complete sets of hold downs everything - a low set of heavy chains to hold it in place, then a set of straps that go from each top corner to the truck or trailer - to prevent tipping. I drive for a mile or two, then stop and check the straps, and invariably something has moved.

5. Strap everything down. You need a good set of chains and load binders as well as a large set of heavy ratchet straps. Also tie everything off on the machine. I once got home from a 200 mile drive with a used forklift with no seat bottom. I have no idea when or where I lost it, but it was long gone. Machines sometimes have arms for lights, or DRO's; electrical doors, or all kinds of other things. I take a packing tape gun and tons of big zip ties with me to strap stuff down. I also zip tie all of my chain binders and ratchet straps shut, so they can't come open in transit, and zip tie any tails to my ratchet strap, so they can't flutter in the wind.

6. A forklift makes things much easier - if you can rent one on the harder end, it makes things much easier. Sometimes you can find a nearby business that will send their fork truck guy over for 15 minutes. If you do that have everything ready for them to be able to pick the thing up, move it and put it down quickly. I did that one time when I had to move 4 machines at once and it made the job simple - paid the guy 75 bucks and he was there only about 20 minutes.

I just moved 2 11,000 lb forklifts by myself on Monday. one of them ran, so that was easy. The other didn't run, and believe me it's not easy to move 11,000 lbs of dead weight even if it rolls. Still, I was meticulous about strapping them down at every corner high and low and getting the weight positioned right on the trailer and making sure there weren't any parts or wires or strap ends flapping in the wind.
 
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Sticky Grips

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Aug 13, 2014
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92
Where are you moving it from and to?

I just moved mine into my garage.

Some tips.

1. Transport the Mill on an open trailer.

2. I didn't rotate the head or do anything to the machine.

3. Lift the mill from its lifting eye.

4. Rent a Gantry Crane to remove the lift from the trailer and move it as close to its final destination as possible.

5. Roll the mill on 3/4 inch black iron pipes. Use a long pry bar. it takes some muscle, but isn't impossible.
 

IndyGarage

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Where are you moving it from and to?

I just moved mine into my garage.

Some tips.

1. Transport the Mill on an open trailer.

2. I didn't rotate the head or do anything to the machine.

3. Lift the mill from its lifting eye.

4. Rent a Gantry Crane to remove the lift from the trailer and move it as close to its final destination as possible.

5. Roll the mill on 3/4 inch black iron pipes. Use a long pry bar. it takes some muscle, but isn't impossible.

I don't think you'll find a rental gantry crane for 5500 lbs, and that's more weight than I'd like to wheel around from the top. You get that much weight swinging, and you'll be in trouble in no time.
 

astroracer

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Mid_Michigan
I used a pallet jack to move my mill. Of course it's not a series 2 but any good 5 or 6K jack will do the job.
We rolled it onto a car trailer, set the pallet jack on a few 4 x 4's, and strapped it down very well. Handled the 40 mile ride home with no issues. :)
Mark
 
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Monkey Milk

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Messages
450
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Depending on where you are moving it from and to, you can move 5500lb manually, but it's very slow. Slopes and steps and things like that are problems.

I have a set of roller skates I bought from Northern tool that I moved a 12,000 lb machine with by myself, with no help. Jacked it up with a toe jack, put the skates under it, pushed it a few feet, jacked it up and adjusted the skates, moved it a few feet, etc.

Then I used a big forklift to load it onto a truck. It was a little tricky and slow, but I got it done.

I've learned several things about moving machines:
1. pay attention to the weather - I planned to move my KT mill for two weeks and as I was putting it on the open trailer a rogue 10 minute thunderstorm drenched everything, causing me to spend 2 hours drying and spraying about a gallong of wd-40 to fight off rust.

2. Take plenty of leverage - come alongs, prybars, hoists, chains, slings, straps - you can almost never have too much of that stuff. However, this is not the time to have too many people around. You don't want to watch after kids while you are moving something heavy - too many folks and somebody is going to be in danger or in the way - take plenty of machine/leverage help and 1-2 strong, sensible helpers. I almost always move things alone, so I don't have to worry about anyone else. It also forces me to think about every action because there's no recovery if I drop something on myself.

3. Be prepared to take stuff apart on the fly - have tools ready.

4. Be very careful about tipping. Machines can be top heavy. They can tip when you lift them, they can tip when you go around corners, when you have to stop fast. You don't want a loose 5500 lb machine. I usually put two complete sets of hold downs everything - a low set of heavy chains to hold it in place, then a set of straps that go from each top corner to the truck or trailer - to prevent tipping. I drive for a mile or two, then stop and check the straps, and invariably something has moved.

5. Strap everything down. You need a good set of chains and load binders as well as a large set of heavy ratchet straps. Also tie everything off on the machine. I once got home from a 200 mile drive with a used forklift with no seat bottom. I have no idea when or where I lost it, but it was long gone. Machines sometimes have arms for lights, or DRO's; electrical doors, or all kinds of other things. I take a packing tape gun and tons of big zip ties with me to strap stuff down. I also zip tie all of my chain binders and ratchet straps shut, so they can't come open in transit, and zip tie any tails to my ratchet strap, so they can't flutter in the wind.

6. A forklift makes things much easier - if you can rent one on the harder end, it makes things much easier. Sometimes you can find a nearby business that will send their fork truck guy over for 15 minutes. If you do that have everything ready for them to be able to pick the thing up, move it and put it down quickly. I did that one time when I had to move 4 machines at once and it made the job simple - paid the guy 75 bucks and he was there only about 20 minutes.

I just moved 2 11,000 lb forklifts by myself on Monday. one of them ran, so that was easy. The other didn't run, and believe me it's not easy to move 11,000 lbs of dead weight even if it rolls. Still, I was meticulous about strapping them down at every corner high and low and getting the weight positioned right on the trailer and making sure there weren't any parts or wires or strap ends flapping in the wind.

All good points,

I wish I had some skates and a toe jack or even a pallet jack. That would make it much easier to move the last 20ft. Maybe just use pipes.

I got 2 quotes with pickup, delivery and forklift. $750 & $500. I think this would be the easiest, just not cost effective.

What do you think of of a tilt bed tow truck, this scares me but I seen it done.

Does anyone have the measurements of the series 2?
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
Three 2 ton floor jacks make great machine skates. I have moved my machines that way several times

Bob
 
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Monkey Milk

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Three 2 ton floor jacks make great machine skates. I have moved my machines that way several times

Bob

I have 3 2ton jacks, I will still need a toe jack to get it up to the height of the jacks.(flat base)


Chain binders on the base to hold it on the trailer and big strong straps all around.

Drop deck is the only answer. NEVER use a tilt bed.

That's what I was thinking too, do you think '01 tacoma quad cab can pull a drop deck trailer and #5000? I checked the the hitch and max rating is #5000!
 

Rigpig

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Feb 13, 2010
Messages
188
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Victoria,BC
Good luck! I'm moving an old lathe next week, looks like its about 2 tons. Got a buddy up the street with a picker truck, should make it a little easier.
Cheers!
 

iminocca

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Apr 9, 2015
Messages
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Location
Orange County, CA
I moved a series 1 clone and an 1100 lb lathe last year using a drop bed trailer and that was THE Way to go! I rented a single axle trailer, rated for 4500-5000 lb I think, I wanted to rent a dual axle trailer but because I could easily exceed the towing capacity of my F150 they wouldn't rent it to me...they wanted me to have a truck with a minimum 3/4 ton rating as the tow vehicle. The point being you might want to rent a truck along with the trailer if you go that route. My move was a little over 450 mi. I didn't know any better and took the head off the mill, made a cradle for it and secured it to the trailer deck. Nothing moved, had no damage.
 

gte718p

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I moved a series 1 clone and an 1100 lb lathe last year using a drop bed trailer and that was THE Way to go! I rented a single axle trailer, rated for 4500-5000 lb I think, I wanted to rent a dual axle trailer but because I could easily exceed the towing capacity of my F150 they wouldn't rent it to me...they wanted me to have a truck with a minimum 3/4 ton rating as the tow vehicle. The point being you might want to rent a truck along with the trailer if you go that route. My move was a little over 450 mi. I didn't know any better and took the head off the mill, made a cradle for it and secured it to the trailer deck. Nothing moved, had no damage.

At the point your renting a truck a trailer and maybe having to buy some skates or some even good tie downs, I would seriously consider paying someone to move it. Most simple moves I've seen cost ~$600. It seem like a lot because they will knock it out in about 15 -20 minutes but having the right equipment is everything. If you do drop it you will be out way more the a couple of hundred dollars to get the machine back to right.
 

retfr8flyr

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Providence Forge, VA
At the point your renting a truck a trailer and maybe having to buy some skates or some even good tie downs, I would seriously consider paying someone to move it. Most simple moves I've seen cost ~$600. It seem like a lot because they will knock it out in about 15 -20 minutes but having the right equipment is everything. If you do drop it you will be out way more the a couple of hundred dollars to get the machine back to right.

This. For $500, to me, it's not worth the hassle to try and move it yourself. By the time you rent the stuff you are talking about needing, you're not saving much. Do the guys you talked to have insurance to cover any damage when they move it? That alone would be worth the cost.
 

slodat

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I dropped a 2600lb mill flat on its face coming off a lift gate, because I didn't know what I was doing, didn't have the right equipment and something in my rigging broke. Since then I've helped professionals move a few of my own machines and have learned enough I now know how and where my limits are.

I helped my buddy move a 4T milling machine last week. We had machinery skates, good rigging hear and a pro rigger with us. 4T is a lot of weight to work with. In my opinion once your over 2500 lb or so, think about paying to have it done. I can move my Series 1 Bridgeport by myself, with ease with machinery lifting bar and two pieces of drill rod...
 
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Monkey Milk

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This. For $500, to me, it's not worth the hassle to try and move it yourself. By the time you rent the stuff you are talking about needing, you're not saving much. Do the guys you talked to have insurance to cover any damage when they move it? That alone would be worth the cost.

No insurance that I know of, it's my friend's - friend. $500 with forklift, pickup and delivery.

Got a quote for the roll back tow truck, $250. Said he moved a couple of mills before. I know this guy since I use to be in the biz, but seeing a mill at that incline just scares me!


I dropped a 2600lb mill flat on its face coming off a lift gate, because I didn't know what I was doing, didn't have the right equipment and something in my rigging broke.

Ouch!
 

Steve from Socal

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If this is your first rodeo 500 bucks is well worth the cost. There are so many things that can go wrong and hurt the machine or worse, you. A smaller machine that can be field stripped is one thing, a larger more awkward machine is far more challenging to move. IF you could hire a heavy duty wrecker to pick the machine up, load it on a suitable trailer and, place it at the new location that would be the only way I would consider this.

You would need an 8000 pound forklift to load and unload due to the distance from the mast. Forklift rentals add up with delivery charges, a wrecker is a better option IF the wrecker can boom into the pick up and delivery location. Any way you slice it, the 500 spent to move it sounds about right.

Steve
 

joe_padavano

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When I moved my mill (a Tree 2U, equivalent to a Series I), I called a tow truck. There's a local garage with a hydraulic boom truck that works like a small crane. $50 to load the mill onto my flatbed, he followed me to the new location, and $50 to take it off. He was able to back the tow truck right into the shop were I was moving from, carried the mill out, and put it on the trailer.

Obviously for a Series II you'll need a larger tow truck, but they are around. You might want to ask. I suspect it will be a lot cheaper than $750.
 
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Monkey Milk

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update,

called around 20 places including machinery renters and no one has a drop deck trailer. so I decided to just pay the 5 bills and have it delivered with a tractor/trailer and forklift. It will be delivered next week so this weekend is make space week.
 

Want2race

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I know $500 sounds high but it's worth every cent!

I hired a safe mover and they had a moving device break. The guy broke his legs in multiple places. Needless to say i was happy I didn't try it myself!
 
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Monkey Milk

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I know $500 sounds high but it's worth every cent!

I hired a safe mover and they had a moving device break. The guy broke his legs in multiple places. Needless to say i was happy I didn't try it myself!

You wouldn't think that moving a machine could be that dangerous, but when they go don't try to stop it!
 
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Monkey Milk

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Update2

Had to move it at 7:30am, per his schedule. This was the worst time for me with traffic and location. I didn't have to meet him but I wanted to change the pallet to a metal one and brace the knee per A_pmech advise.

I just put a bottle jack with a 2x4 under the knee, put just put slight pressure upwards and locked the knee (I didn't have a crank handle). Moved the ram so the operator could get the forks under it and replace the wooden pallet with a metal one and I was done.

Placed the mill on the beaver tail trailer, strapped it down and off it went. At home was just as easy for the the removal(another forklift).

Now time for cleaning and locating parts. What I found out is series 2 parts are hard to find!

Sorry no pics, never thought of it and plus I had to direct traffic- main road.


CASH is KING- greenbacks will get you a discount! Ended up cheaper then originally agreed on. Never hurts to try! I will definitely move my next big lathe this way.
 

xxaler

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series 2 is a 2J head right? Parts are easy to find, just need more specifics on what you need. I restored a 1943 Bridgeport M-head with a 9x32 table without any trouble, even the small stuff was easy and cheap.

I just reformatted my computer and haven't uploaded my bookmarks, but there's one fellow I was talking to who has a machine graveyard and sells parts dirt cheap. It's like an automotive u-pull yard, except he pulls everything himself.
 

Strouty

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series 2 is a 2J head right? Parts are easy to find, just need more specifics on what you need. I restored a 1943 Bridgeport M-head with a 9x32 table without any trouble, even the small stuff was easy and cheap.

I just reformatted my computer and haven't uploaded my bookmarks, but there's one fellow I was talking to who has a machine graveyard and sells parts dirt cheap. It's like an automotive u-pull yard, except he pulls everything himself.

No, series 2 is a monster that could crush the tiny series 1.
 
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Monkey Milk

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series 2 is a 2J head right? Parts are easy to find, just need more specifics on what you need. I restored a 1943 Bridgeport M-head with a 9x32 table without any trouble, even the small stuff was easy and cheap.

I just reformatted my computer and haven't uploaded my bookmarks, but there's one fellow I was talking to who has a machine graveyard and sells parts dirt cheap. It's like an automotive u-pull yard, except he pulls everything himself.

pretty much nothing is the same, just think of a series 2 as 2x larger in every sense. The heads are known as 4J.

No, series 2 is a monster that could crush the tiny series 1.

With a 1500 weight limit on the table, you could almost mill a series 1. LOL
 
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Monkey Milk

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No! Leave my baby alone! haha. I've got the build guide and exploded diagram of that head somewhere, when I switch all my stuff over I'll try and remember to post it.

Thanks, I don't know if it's the same:dunno:

Anyone got a series II parts and maintenance manual, I could use it.
 
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