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Newb question SS TIG

Micscience

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I was curious about how thin can one weld with a scratch start TIG? I just basically want the capability to be able to weld thin stuff such as 1/16th thick or so. I know that the scratch start ignition can be a bit lets say bothersome however what I am worried about is what would it be like to weld thin material without a foot pedal and scratch start?

I know all the basic stuff such as High Frequency start and a foot pedal makes things easier I am aware of that however I never read or I never see thin materials being welded online with scratch start except for a few comments here and there so can some one please chime in here? Thank You and PS: don't be to harsh on me I'm just a newb.
 
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dr_clyde

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I weld most stainless without a foot pedal on scratch start. You just have to be certain of your settings. I routinley weld sanitary stainless tubing this way. 1-1/2" 16 gauge stainless 35 amps with a back purge. Just touch off and walk the cup around the pipe.
 

readhead

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16 ga isn't thin in my world. In the sheet metal biz I would routinely weld 24 ga ss. As an apprentice I learned to scratch start. I didn't know there was such a thing as a pedal untill I went to another shop a couple of years later and was a bit embarrassed when I had to ask the shop foreman how go make the machine work.
 
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Micscience

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Hmm I guess that is good news but I'm not sure if 16 gauge is thin enough. I do not weld thin materials on a regular basis nor do I weld all that often however every time there is something that breaks that I need to weld it is always to thin to even attempt to weld it. All I have is a fluxcore machine and now I am ready to step up to gas. I am looking for the best bang for your buc setup for versatility for welding things like sheet metal, possibly build a down hill MTB frame and also thicker stuff no thicker than 1/4.
 

Bobhdus

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You can weld SS thinner than aluminum foil. We used to put the polarity switch on electrode positive (which would normally burn up your tungsten), and then turn the settings really low. The tungsten would glow but set really low it would keep really thin stuff from burning through. For scratch start just keep some brass or copper strips nearby to touch off with.


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zkling

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Some of the worlds finest work is done that way.

Yep, as Dr. Clyde mentioned and can attest to, almost all in plant food, beverage and dairy piping is welded at a fixed amperage with scratch start.

Hmm I guess that is good news but I'm not sure if 16 gauge is thin enough. I do not weld thin materials on a regular basis nor do I weld all that often however every time there is something that breaks that I need to weld it is always to thin to even attempt to weld it. All I have is a fluxcore machine and now I am ready to step up to gas. I am looking for the best bang for your buc setup for versatility for welding things like sheet metal, possibly build a down hill MTB frame and also thicker stuff no thicker than 1/4.

You are going to want a TIG machine or mixed gas torch for your frame work. Another grand example why the average joe welder should have a tig/stick machine as his or her primary.
 
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Micscience

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Bobhdus When you say ( to touch off on) you are talking about ending the weld or the start of the weld? I have heard the thinner the metal is the easier the tungsten will stick to it.

btw thanks for the info guys I am probably going to buy a SS TIG today or this week. I have also seen on Mr. Tig that you can weld aluminum with 100% argon and also by switching the tungsten out for a thicker one but you have to keep the arc really close. It doesn't seem easy but nothing really is.
 
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Tinner

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btw thanks for the info guys I am probably going to buy a SS TIG today or this week. I have also seen on Mr. Tig that you can weld aluminum with 100% argon and also by switching the tungsten out for a thicker one but you have to keep the arc really close. It doesn't seem easy but nothing really is.

Yes that is correct.

In terms of welding knowledge beyond the basics, Mr. Tig is an idiot who couldn't find his *** with both hands and a flashlight. Watch the video where he attempts to fill trim holes on an early ChevyII. I bet the owner of that car was pissed after the dunce warped the hell out of his sheetmetal.
 

BD1

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What about a mig machine ? The Miller 211 might work along with trigas for your needs. Miller has a current rebate program .
 
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Micscience

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Well I was under the impression MIG can only weld material around 1/8 the thin or so. On my first post I mentioned that I would like to weld material around 1/16th thick but after further thought I meant more like soda can or razor blade thick. You ever see the pictures onlineof the razors and soda cans welded together? I would like to have that capability.
 

Bobhdus

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Bobhdus When you say ( to touch off on) you are talking about ending the weld or the start of the weld? I have heard the thinner the metal is the easier the tungsten will stick to it.

btw thanks for the info guys I am probably going to buy a SS TIG today or this week. I have also seen on Mr. Tig that you can weld aluminum with 100% argon and also by switching the tungsten out for a thicker one but you have to keep the arc really close. It doesn't seem easy but nothing really is.


Sorry, just now seeing you asked me a question. I meant "touch off" as in start your arc.

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Bobhdus

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What did you ever buy? I'm sorry I haven't been following this thread.


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hunter1151

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You guys seem to know what you are talking about on stainless. I have a Dynasty 350 and I have a project where I need to weld .035 321 stainless tubing together. I have never done any back purging and I would like to have some starting settings, tungsten type and argon pressure settings. I will be using 347 rod but don't know what size to try first. Thanks in advance
 

Bobhdus

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I've never heard of 347 but then again, I've used weird brands too like T707 (Certainium). Personally, I would get the smallest rod you can find. There's a lot of noobs and experts alike here so I always tell people to go to http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/. You won't just see someone's weld pictures, Jody will take you through everything. And it's all free. He has a YouTube channel too. But he covers everything, in all welding processes. Any advice given here, you can never really know the source. And we have some great people here. But we also have snobs. Watch some vids at that link and then see what questions you have that isn't answered...
 

dr_clyde

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When I purge tubing, I typically run about 15 CFH, and let it vent through an 1/8" hole at the highest point of the purged part. Time depends on the size and geometry.
 
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