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Brand New Floor. What would you do?

bedn0009

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
I'm starting a build in the next couple weeks. After the pour is done and framed, when would you treat the floor,and what are my options?

  • Acid stain
  • Epoxy
  • Basic sealant
  • something else?

Also, any specific steps the concrete guy has to take or avoid u when he pours it?

Thanks
 
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Reflex

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May 19, 2015
Messages
49
Bedn,

I have the exact scenario you described, only difference is I'm finished with the pour. Also, I'm new here and have never done this before, so my opinion is probably not worth much. That being said, here's what I did/am doing.

1) Probably would have been better if I hadn't had the floor finished to a burnished surface (was very slick). Would have made it easier to prep/grind
2) It appears to be best of there's nothing in the concrete mix to help it cure
3) No chemicals sprayed on surface after pour
4) Vapor barrier is a must
5) Hard to wait until moisture is done bleeding out before starting on the floor!

I worked (am working) with Legacy Industrial (Scotty) and have ordered/am going with

1 coat Primer
1 coat Epoxy
2 Coats Urethane

Expensive, but I'm hoping to only do it once, or be able to repair in spots as it wears.

Best of Luck
Reflex
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I'm starting a build in the next couple weeks. After the pour is done and framed, when would you treat the floor,and what are my options?

  • Acid stain
  • Epoxy
  • Basic sealant
  • something else?

Also, any specific steps the concrete guy has to take or avoid u when he pours it?

Thanks

For us, in order to give you the right answer, I would need more about how you use your floor. I can make a good argument for any of those being the 'best choice' under varying circumstances, along with densifiers, Rust Bullet and others. How big is the area you are coating, how do you use the area and what are your main concerns.
 

crewchief437

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
155
Location
Poplarville, MS
i went with acid stain and sealer because it seems like it would last longer than epoxy and with the sealer i chose i don't have to do maintenance to the floor every 6 months. also seemed like its easier to screw up epoxy as DIY
 

Shea

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,868
Location
California
Justin makes a great point. The size of your floor, budget, and how you plan to use it are the three most important factors to deciding what option is best for you.
 
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bedn0009

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Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
Thank you all for replying.

This will be a woodworking/storage/etc garage. It's 32 x 28, detached and will have occasional vehicle storage... it's a second garage.

If it matters, I live in Wisconsin and I'm putting a trench drain across the entire front inside the doors.
 
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bedn0009

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
i went with acid stain and sealer because it seems like it would last longer than epoxy and with the sealer i chose i don't have to do maintenance to the floor every 6 months. also seemed like its easier to screw up epoxy as DIY
Thank you. Do you have any pics or links you could send please? Is having to maintain epoxy a normal thing??
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Thank you. Do you have any pics or links you could send please? Is having to maintain epoxy a normal thing??

A lot of members here are having great success with the Rust Bullet product in applications like yours. It does not require the prep work and is relatively easy to install.

The basic gray Rust Bullet has incredible abrasion resistance, chemical resistance and holds up very well. It does not lift from hot tires. Many of the posts here will also show it with flake and a clear top coat.

Traditional epoxy is also a great option. You just want to make sure you do it right. Grind the floor, preferably renting a Diamabrush at your local Home Depot, or at least a Clark sander and borrowing ours. Then prime it, followed by high solids or 100% solids epoxy -- I think high solids is easier to work with -- and top coat using a good aliphatic urethane such as TL321.
 

Higshemi

Active member
Joined
Jun 15, 2015
Messages
37
Location
Breslau, ont
Subscribed, in the same position. Pouring will begin in a few weeks. My main concern is protection from carbides and picks from my sled. So I will be laying 4x6 horse stall mats in "the wrenching" area of the garage to protect the floor. I will secure them to the concrete via lag bolts. So I'm definitly interested in hearing options for fresh concrete.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Subscribed, in the same position. Pouring will begin in a few weeks. My main concern is protection from carbides and picks from my sled. So I will be laying 4x6 horse stall mats in "the wrenching" area of the garage to protect the floor. I will secure them to the concrete via lag bolts. So I'm definitly interested in hearing options for fresh concrete.

Thank you all for replying.

This will be a woodworking/storage/etc garage. It's 32 x 28, detached and will have occasional vehicle storage... it's a second garage.

If it matters, I live in Wisconsin and I'm putting a trench drain across the entire front inside the doors.

If you are more worried about protecting the floor a densifier and penetrating sealer is also a good alternative.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Acid staining is a brilliant way to color the floor. It will make your floor one of a kind.
Finish the project with either an epoxy/urethane finish or there are basic acrylics available too. Our Nohr-S Sealer is a very resilient product that utilizes aliphatic chemistry, much better than aromatic products and much faster return to service.

To answer your initial question specifically it is best to wait 30 days for this type of project.

Also... do not grind this floor before you stain. It will ruin the entire project.
If it's finely power-troweled, a 60 grit screen on a buffer is all you need to open the floor up a bit.

Protecting the floor with mats from the carbides is a great idea, some use recycled belting too.

Good luck and please post your pics to share with the GJ community!


9CED80F6-8E96-41F5-8F02-CFA6FE88B43F_zpsk1vbexqv.jpg
 
Last edited:

hellspcangel911

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
237
Not sure if its the look you are going for but I LOVE my tile floor.. easy to clean up, very durable, great look and relatively affordable... i also weld on it...
about $2.20/foot + .60 ft for thinset... this was for 24"x24" tile... you can get stuff for cheaper..
 

Notgrownup

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2014
Messages
5,977
Location
Snow Hill NC
I also went acid stained with 2 coats of clear epoxy from Legacy... I like the way it turned out...If I had to do over I might pick a lighter stain but I think it will look good with my Harley Davidson 3 color paint scheme
 

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