Need longish pure copper jumper cables

[GSMotorrad]

I did a search and found some old threads, but those deals have long since expired. I'm looking for some pure copper booster cables and I don't want to make them myself from welding wire, because I want them to be connected and color coded the whole way through.

Anyone have any leads on some good quality, pure copper (not CCA), heavy duty jumper cables 20 - 25 feet long? 4AWG would be the minimum, but I'd prefer 2 gauge or heavier. Amazon is all over the place, and it's a guess at COO and actual purity of the copper. Thanks.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Can you give us some insight into why you want them to be pure copper?

 

[R.Anderson]

You can get red and black welding cable.

4 awg 25' each color
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CAB...842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc99d63aa

2 awg 25' each color
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CAB...759?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc99d3477

Your asking a lot for a set of jumper cables, rather curious as well for all the requirements for a set of jumper cables.

 

[GSMotorrad]

Can you give us some insight into why you want them to be pure copper?

Why wouldn't I want them to be pure copper?

 

[uniballer]

When I go to auctions, I look for the older yet still usable cables. I have two sets of 2 gauge jumper cables, around 20 foot long. The thicker the gauge the better the jump.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Why wouldn't I want them to be pure copper?

Aren't most all jumper cables pure copper, especially the heavier ones?

 

[unslow1]

I don't see why the cable would need to be color-coded as long as the clamps were.

 

[GSMotorrad]

Aren't most all jumper cables pure copper, especially the heavier ones?

Most of them seem to be CCA, from what I've been seeing, with the price of copper and all that. Weight is the tell-tale sign though, yes. Copper is heavier than copper clad aluminum.

I asked because I'm curious why you'd recommend CCA over pure copper - are there benefits I'm unaware of?

My old aluminum cables' strands break inside the insulation after a while, since aluminum doesn't like to bend and isn't as flexible as copper, and I don't want to keep buying jumper cables over and over again, so I'm looking for high-quality to keep a long time - the same concept I live by for all the rest of my tools. I have three pairs of old aluminum cables and they're all worthless, with broken strands, so I need a new set at this time. I want to get a good set this time . . . Also, the thicker gauge will allow for a longer run, and be able to push more current than I've been able to in the past. I'd like to start vehicles when I jump 'em, instead of merely "charging" them. Hopefully that explains my stand-point a bit.

 

[R.Anderson]

Most of them seem to be CCA, from what I've been seeing, with the price of copper and all that. Weight is the tell-tale sign though, yes. Copper is heavier than copper clad aluminum.

I asked because I'm curious why you'd recommend CCA over pure copper - are there benefits I'm unaware of?

My old aluminum cables' strands break inside the insulation after a while, since aluminum doesn't like to bend and isn't as flexible as copper, and I don't want to keep buying jumper cables over and over again, so I'm looking for high-quality to keep a long time - the same concept I live by for all the rest of my tools. I have three pairs of old aluminum cables and they're all worthless, so I need a new set at this time. I want to get a good set this time . . . Also, the thicker gauge will allow for a longer run, and be able to push more current than I've been able to in the past. I'd like to start vehicles when I jump 'em, instead of merely "charging" them. Hopefully that explains my stand-point a bit.

Never seen aluminum ones personally and didn't even knew there were ones made with aluminum, I think you may be stuck buying copper ones made in china. Even if you find ones stated made in USA odds are the copper is from china now days.

If you want really high quality you maybe able to find flexible oxygen free speaker wire that meets your size requirement that is color coded. I missed the requirement of em needing be "connected"

Maybe 2 awg soow cable? this would make one tough jumper cable.

http://www.awcwire.com/productspec.aspx?id=soow-cable-8to2-awg

 

[Thumper68]

I'm wondering why you don't want to buy the parts and assemble them yourself? Then you can put a sticker on them stating assembled in the USA with globally sourced parts.

I was in Airgas last week and while waiting I was looking at the color coded clamps and cable and thinking that I needed to measure my truck and pick up the parts for some nice cables before next winter.

 

[GSMotorrad]

In my line of work, we run 2/0 and 4/0 "feeder cable" that we "tie in" for "distros" and it's SUPER flexible in the cold and insanely heavy. It's way overkill (and expensive) for jumper cables, obviously, but I'm looking for that kind of quality. This stuff has thick, flexible insulation that doesn't crack. Very robust. Looks like this:

 

[R.Anderson]

So soow is out of your price range? or you just really don't want to make em?

You a roadie or stage gear rental supplier?

 

[GSMotorrad]

I'm wondering why you don't want to buy the parts and assemble them yourself? Then you can put a sticker on them stating assembled in the USA with globally sourced parts.

I was in Airgas last week and while waiting I was looking at the color coded clamps and cable and thinking that I needed to measure my truck and pick up the parts for some nice cables before next winter.

I would like them "connected" without taping them together . . . Other wise, I'd rather coil them separately, but if that's my only choice then so be it, I guess.

If trying to make them myself, I'd have to BUY a crimping tool for whatever clamps I don't know what to get, adding to the cost . . . I don't have the ability to solder such thick cable, I guess I'd have to BUY a torch and learn to solder huge cables, but I'm guessing people don't solder cables that huge, but I'm not totally sure . . .

Please just let me buy them pre-made . . . please? The cost will be prohibitive enough without buying more tools that'll likely be a one-time use thing . . . I can't afford all that right now. I could try to hammer the crimps, but it would be so ghetto . . .

On another thread Schurkey wrote:

Be careful what insulation is used. I've got home-made jumper cables made from "welding cable", and every time I use 'em in cold weather I have to repair the cracked insulation.

So I'm a bit put-off on the idea of trying to make my own, not knowing how to source the good stuff with proper insulation.

 

[kctyphoon]

here - about 20 seconds of searching on google - http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=179

there really is not a huge difference between cooper or aluminum, except mabye in sub-zero temps. i think people basically say to go one gauge higher on aluminum vs copper, but honestly i cant see there being a huge difference over such a short run like jumper cables - but im not an expert.

heres the 20' 1 gauge model on amazon - $230, but it comes with a free bucket - are you sure you still want pure copper, cause the CCA models are like half price.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CVOGOU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

another brand - 1 gauge 25' $180
Extreme Duty 800amp Jumper Booster Battery Cables https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NGLNU0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NGLNU0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ChevyEFI]

My "hammered together" battery cables I have made at a local independent parts store (Jay's in Mesa) work great. Vibrations in a car that has thousands of miles put on it is probably more of a test than jumper cables that "should" be carried around in a soft bag.

Junk your aluminum. Keep and paint your clamps. Source your cable; obviously you know what you need there. More strands = more flexibility. Use a hammer crimper. It'll be an effective set of cables. You're sweating details that haven't and won't fail you. The aluminum cables are what failed you.

 

[R.Anderson]

Soldering such size cable is easy with a torch and wont cost much for tools and supplies: torch, rosin core solder.

"Please just let me buy them pre-made . . . please?"

Who is stopping ya? search 25' 2 or 4 awg jumper cables and make sure they are copper and buy em.


The welding cable I linked is cable is rate to -50c with it's EPDM rubber insulation. I have this type from this supplier. I live in Wisconsin it gets below zero here, I have had no problems with it on my gear.

But if you want the best you can't buy and don't want to make em, its seems your on a impossible mission here then.

Good luck to ya.

 

[magicrat]

I haven't looked but u can find everything on ebay for a decent price.....even hoffa

 

[LB-1911]

Anyone have any leads on some good quality, pure copper (not CCA), heavy duty jumper cables 20 - 25 feet long? 4AWG would be the minimum, but I'd prefer 2 gauge or heavier. Amazon is all over the place, and it's a guess at COO and actual purity of the copper. Thanks.

Take a look at Deka jumper cables.

They have Color-coded tangle-free dual cable construction, 2 & 4 gauge 100% copper jumper cables 20 -24 ft lenghts.

Spec's & part numbers @

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0476.pdf

 

[kctyphoon]

also - im pretty sure that website i linked sells all the parts and pieces to make your own set if you so desired.. if you have access to copper like that, and dont want cheap made sets - im not sure why you just dont find the clamps and make your own set.. if you want 25' or even 30' cables, you might even be better off with 2 seperate cables to help with the weight. wrap the ends of one with red electrical tape and the other with black if it makes you feel better.. IMO, thats alot of money to spend on something you probably dont need to if you are just jumping cars... for your own good, i hope you dont say it to jump a honda. lol

i made emergency jumpers for my small bucket truck at work with just 2 pieces of solid copper ground wire.. you had to unfold them to get the lenght, and had no clamps on the ends, but with two people you could get a truck started if you left the stobes on too long w/o the truck running.

 

[Fretters]

there really is not a huge difference between cooper or aluminum, except mabye in sub-zero temps. i think people basically say to go one gauge higher on aluminum vs copper, but honestly i cant see there being a huge difference over such a short run like jumper cables - but im not an expert.

Aluminium doesn't come close to comparing to copper on any front. Theoretical characteristics may appear similar, but copper is pretty much always superior. Aluminium is lightweight and cheap in comparison to copper, which is the reason it finds as many uses as it does these days, regardless of what bunkum the marketing chaps spout.

Personally, if you know of any garages that work with trucks, I'd go on a cadging session and see if they may have an old pair of leads you can appropriate.

 

[geartow]

In my line of work, we run 2/0 and 4/0 "feeder cable" that we "tie in" for "distros" and it's SUPER flexible in the cold and insanely heavy. It's way overkill (and expensive) for jumper cables, obviously, but I'm looking for that kind of quality. This stuff has thick, flexible insulation that doesn't crack. Very robust. Looks like this:

A set cables made of this will.weight in at roughly 70 lbs . I have 4 pigtails with clamps to make jumpers with. I deliver portable gensets for a living and carry 5 fifty foot pice for.that ah we didn't order enuff day .

 

[magicrat]

Ill reiterate.....Copper Is far superior to aluminum....especially in longevity and power transfer.

 

[1950mercury]

http://www.usabatterychargers.com/Booster_Cables.htm

 

[doctordirt]

Try here lots of choices.
http://www.awdirect.com/jumper-cables/?hcs=jumper cable

They supply tow trucks and recovery operators. Another page gives you options on permanent install with quick plugs in grille. I have a set of the bayco or parrot style, love them and flexible to all temps, I live in Michigan so you know we see real cold.

 

[kunkernator]

The link someone posted to Deka cables, can be had locally too. OReilly Auto Parts cables are made by Deka. I have a 20' set, i paid like $50, and i guess that would make them made of copper.

 

[MikeF2316]

A quick trip to Princess Auto...

 

[kythri]

QuickCable supplies parallel bonded bulk booster cable, but it's not exactly "cheap".

http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=105

You can get it from Century Tool in 100ft rolls:

6AWG - 204102-100 - Orange/Black - $250.00
4 AWG - 204103 - Yellow/Black - $387.80
2AWG - 204104 - Red/Black - $578.20
1AWG - 204105 - Gray/Black - $700.00
1/0AWG - 204106 - Red/Black - $824.60

It's not exactly cheap, though. The 1/0 stuff comes out to be $8.25/foot. Of course, that's two cables, so $4.13/foot.

I just bought 25' of 1/0 from the local welding supply place for $2.70/foot.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I just checked Sears' site... I got the 20' 4ga. DHP "kit" (a case you'll never get the cables back in, some ****** gloves, and safety glasses) on sale a couple years ago, it's $70 now and claims to be pure copper. I can vouch that they're heavy as hell and the insulation seems to be both flexible and durable. If you can live with the length and gauge they're hard to beat for the bucks.

 

[mrvm]

I got the 20' 4ga. DHP "kit" (a case you'll never get the cables back in, some ****** gloves, and safety glasses) on sale a couple years ago, it's $70 now and claims to be pure copper. I can vouch that they're heavy as hell and the insulation seems to be both flexible and durable. If you can live with the length and gauge they're hard to beat for the bucks.

Got the same one: " 4 gauge pure copper wire" kit
DieHard Platinum 20ft. 450A 4 Gauge Booster Cable Kit for under $40 a few years ago with points/code

Item # 02871304000P Model # 71304

 

[kctyphoon]

Aluminium doesn't come close to comparing to copper on any front. Theoretical characteristics may appear similar, but copper is pretty much always superior. Aluminium is lightweight and cheap in comparison to copper, which is the reason it finds as many uses as it does these days, regardless of what bunkum the marketing chaps spout.

Personally, if you know of any garages that work with trucks, I'd go on a cadging session and see if they may have an old pair of leads you can appropriate.

like i stated - if aluminum cables are upgraded to a thicker gauges rated to handle the same current as its smaller pure copper counterpart (usually just 1 gauge), then there is basically no difference between them. pure braided copper cables may be more flexible, and withstand more abuse before they begin to fray over a long period of time, but as far as carrying current - there will be no difference - especially over 20 - 30'..

the grounding cables "im suppose to use" when working near live powerlines that are carrying 13,000 to 18,000 volts are like 2 gauge or 0 gauge. i cant see any situaiton where a set of thick jumper cables wouldnt work, no matter what they are made of - but if the OP just wants "better cables" just for the sake of having them, he's been presented with a few options.

 

[dma88]

The ones at the link (see below) seem to fit your criteria and are not outrageously priced. 2 gauge, 20 foot, 100% pure copper, USA made with a case. And if you get 'em, please let us know how you like 'em.

I have ordered stuff from Battery Mart and never had an issue. 10% coupons can often be found or sent via e-mail if you sign up...

http://www.batterymart.com/p-dek-00186.html#tabrev

 

[Scotland]

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/boostercable-4awgcopper-20ft.aspx

I have these 4awg 100% copper.

 

[Tinner]

I have a set I made out of 2ga welding cable. 500 amp clamps I bought at a parts store, soldered on. They are 26 years old and may well outlive me.

 

[kctyphoon]

i gotta ask what the intended use for these will be that require such a heavy duty set of cables.

 

[scissorman]

Here's a set for you. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BGXNGW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kythri]

Here's a set for you. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BGXNGW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Are those copper, or CCA? Product doesn't say, and for the price, I doubt they're copper.

 

[erswill]

FJC, Inc. 45245 FJC45245 2 Gauge, 25' 600 AMP Parrot Clamp Professional Booster Cables

Features and Benefits:
•Tangle free design
•Medium to commercial duty
•High/Low temperature construction
•Heavy duty jaws
•Copper-clad aluminum wire


link:
http://www.tooloutfitters.com/2-gauge-25-600-amp-parrot-clamp-professional-booster-cables.html

 

[Engineer61]

As stated before, copper is going to be EXPENSIVE and HEAVY

From Tooltopia
http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=FJC45330

or same thing from same place through Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHVXTZY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[jrobb316]

Take a look at Deka jumper cables.

They have Color-coded tangle-free dual cable construction, 2 & 4 gauge 100% copper jumper cables 20 -24 ft lenghts.

Spec's & part numbers @

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0476.pdf

These are the ones I bought. Would highly recommend.

 

[Andrew LB]

1 gauge
100% copper
25ft
super flexible
800amp capacity.
$110 with free shipping. (Amazon wants $189 for these cables)
They weigh 27 pounds. They're 100% copper.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BAC0/SL3010/N0359.oap

Here is the Amazon link to confirm 100% copper: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NGLNU0/?tag=atomicindus08-20