Gfercaks33
Well-known member
So I am redoing some cabinets and I have gotten all of the old stain and pint off but there is still a shadow of where the trim was any help on getting it out? Or will it dissapear when I stain it?
Stripping cabinet doors
- Thread starter Gfercaks33
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OP
Gfercaks33
Well-known member
I'll add what I have tried, chemical stripper, sanding with 80,120,180 grit, and bleach but I still have that ghost.
7th Kahuna
Well-known member
Hard to say without knowing what the source of the stain is. Is it glue residue, stain, tannins that bled out of the other wood . . . You could try a bit of hydrogen peroxide or bleach, but my guess is you are going to need to use a dark enough stain to hide it. Good luck. Maybe someone will have a better idea.
OP
Gfercaks33
Well-known member
No clue what the stain was house was built in 64, I am planning on using minwax red mahogany. I don't think it was glued down as the trim payed off cleanly.
Edit I just left the house and sprayed some peroxide on.
Edit I just left the house and sprayed some peroxide on.
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7th Kahuna
Well-known member
It's probably just tannins. I hope the peroxide works for you. If not, I had another thought. Since the stain is fairly light, if you don't think the mahogany will cover it (which it may), you could darken the wood around the stain to blend it in or slightly darken the whole door. (You could thin down some brown stain or maybe even make a simple coffee grounds stain.) Then apply the final mahogany stain over that. Your approach will need to vary depending upon the type of stain you are using.
Whatever you try, test it first. If your mahogany stain is a penetrating stain, you don't want to inadvertently seal the wood when you darken it. Similarly, be careful about darkening the 'original' stains. I am certain that something will work for you. Worst case, come back with a mahogany gel stain after the original stain has dried and blend it that way.
Whatever you try, test it first. If your mahogany stain is a penetrating stain, you don't want to inadvertently seal the wood when you darken it. Similarly, be careful about darkening the 'original' stains. I am certain that something will work for you. Worst case, come back with a mahogany gel stain after the original stain has dried and blend it that way.
how many doors ? they are just fir ply and maybe you should think about replace the doors and be much happier with the end results.
7th Kahuna
Well-known member
Have you tested the stain on the plywood? If it is a penetrating stain, you may find that it stains pretty unevenly or develops blotches. In that case you may want to seal the door prior to staining. I am no expert here, but if the minwax is oil based, then *I THINK* you apply a well thinned down (mineral spirits) coat of linseed oil first???? This partially seals the pores, evening out the stain, so the grain isn't quite as wild looking, and helps to prevent blotches. Seems to me the linseed oil IS NOT allowed to dry before the stain is applied. I don't work with stained interior pine or fir myself so I am just going from memory. Unfortunately my grandfather is no longer around to ask.
dfiler2
Well-known member
I agree with "The Cobbler" that is fairly modern plywood and it appears as though there is some slight delamination, I would replace it.
OP
Gfercaks33
Well-known member
If I replaced them it would be 25 doors plus draws if needed. I went ahead and put one coat of the minwax on just to see what the out come would be, I will need to put one maybe two more coats on just to see what it looks like but it did hide the shadow.
The wife does want new cabinet doors but that's not in the budget for now, I was bored and decided to try something instead of the crappy white paint the previous owner had.
The wife does want new cabinet doors but that's not in the budget for now, I was bored and decided to try something instead of the crappy white paint the previous owner had.
7th Kahuna
Well-known member
I'm glad it covered the stains. If you are interested in trying to even out the finish a bit there are plenty of videos on YouTube. Here are a couple:
The second takes it to the extreme but should give you some ideas.
Gel stains can be built up to darken and / or cover defects.
The second takes it to the extreme but should give you some ideas.
Gel stains can be built up to darken and / or cover defects.
Slednut
Well-known member
As said before you could put some Benite on it before staining so it will take the stain more evenly. It may make the shadow form the old trim more visible though.
Strouty
Well-known member
You could always paint them another color.
crooklyn
Well-known member
my wife just did our cabinets in the kitchen. she stripped them with Circa 1918 and sanded them down. The Circa 1918 worked great!
Oh yeah, I wanted to mention that she is doing this because the Garage/shop comes first before the kitchen. So stripping and fixing the current cabinets was her only option
Oh yeah, I wanted to mention that she is doing this because the Garage/shop comes first before the kitchen. So stripping and fixing the current cabinets was her only option
7th Kahuna
Well-known member
my wife just did our cabinets in the kitchen. she stripped them with Circa 1918 and sanded them down. The Circa 1918 worked great!
Oh yeah, I wanted to mention that she is doing this because the Garage/shop comes first before the kitchen. So stripping and fixing the current cabinets was her only option
Ok my friend. You must be delusional.
I think you meant Circa 1850 (which I had never heard of, thanks) AND your wife is agrees the shop comes first. Somethings not right here.
Consider making new doors. What you have are paint grade doors, never meant to be stained. Easy to replace & not expensive.
Use this as a general guide for cost of hardwood ply. Birch is hard to stain evenly, for very little more you can buy cherry for instance.
In my area grade a-1 3/4" cherry is $99- a sheet divided by 32 sq ft= about $ 3.00 sq ft- not expensive at all.
http://www.bairdbrothers.com/Hardwood-Plywood-C966.aspx
Find a local hardwood supply that sells what you need & explain that you will need it cut (they usually have saws with a big table & a great blade) .
If you are nice and tell them it's not a rush job they will usually do it at a small charge.
Before you go, measure all your doors and work on a layout so you get the maximum out of a sheet and keep the cuts to a minimum- allow about 1/8" for the saw blade.
If you take your time on the layout depending on the sizes, 3 sheets might be enough.
The time you save plus the cost of not having to buy stripper and getting a better job makes it worth it.
Use this as a general guide for cost of hardwood ply. Birch is hard to stain evenly, for very little more you can buy cherry for instance.
In my area grade a-1 3/4" cherry is $99- a sheet divided by 32 sq ft= about $ 3.00 sq ft- not expensive at all.
http://www.bairdbrothers.com/Hardwood-Plywood-C966.aspx
Find a local hardwood supply that sells what you need & explain that you will need it cut (they usually have saws with a big table & a great blade) .
If you are nice and tell them it's not a rush job they will usually do it at a small charge.
Before you go, measure all your doors and work on a layout so you get the maximum out of a sheet and keep the cuts to a minimum- allow about 1/8" for the saw blade.
If you take your time on the layout depending on the sizes, 3 sheets might be enough.
The time you save plus the cost of not having to buy stripper and getting a better job makes it worth it.
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ddawg16
Well-known member
I have to agree with the 'replacement' suggestions above.
For all the work to strip....you could have ripped new ones in a fraction of the time...using a much better looking plywood.
Those doors are made from construction plywood.....at best painted...not stained.
To be honest...staining them looks like ****. Not trying to rag on you....but it looks like ****. You just can't do anything with that wood. You want paint or stain grade wood.
But I must commend you for your effort.
And.....any chance of some pics of the car on the left? 67 Camero?
For all the work to strip....you could have ripped new ones in a fraction of the time...using a much better looking plywood.
Those doors are made from construction plywood.....at best painted...not stained.
To be honest...staining them looks like ****. Not trying to rag on you....but it looks like ****. You just can't do anything with that wood. You want paint or stain grade wood.
But I must commend you for your effort.
And.....any chance of some pics of the car on the left? 67 Camero?
Do what you can to make them look nice but let the wife know, they may not come out as "purdy" as she's hoping.
Worse comes to worse, if you have the tools, you'll be making new ones. These can be used later to make some cabinets for the garage.
Worse comes to worse, if you have the tools, you'll be making new ones. These can be used later to make some cabinets for the garage.
JayCrash450
Active member
With what you have going on I would use a tinted varnish. Tinted varnish will provide good coverage, blend and even out the wood grain. However, it's still opaque enough to allow a subtle grain of wood and not look like a painted piece of wood. By the way, tinted varnishes come in all kinds of colors, and consequently, different levels of coverage. In fact you can keep adding coats until you get a complete painted look, therefore any coats in between will keep adding to the level of how opaque it is...more and more and more, until you're happy with the coverage.
I love wood grain that pops on a beautiful piece of wood, but with all due respect I think the grain in the wood looks not so nice. It looks like birch which is pretty soft and tends to soak up a ton of stain without a sealer applied first. The grain is massively sticking out due to the direct application of the stain.
If you like the way it looks then completely disregard my suggestion. Just my option of what I would do if they were my cabinets.
I love wood grain that pops on a beautiful piece of wood, but with all due respect I think the grain in the wood looks not so nice. It looks like birch which is pretty soft and tends to soak up a ton of stain without a sealer applied first. The grain is massively sticking out due to the direct application of the stain.
If you like the way it looks then completely disregard my suggestion. Just my option of what I would do if they were my cabinets.
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JayCrash450
Active member
You could do that but most finish carpenters would tell you to use 100% shellac as anything can bond to it and will do a good job of dealing to wood since soft woods soak up everything like crazy. Many woodworkers like zinnser shellac. Or use a good quality sanding sealer.
OP
Gfercaks33
Well-known member
I did use some stain and it doesn't look half bad, I'll get some update pics soon.
OP
Gfercaks33
Well-known member
I did tell her that but she appears to be happy with them ( not happy with my snails pace, it's been humid so stuffs taking forever to dry)
She did want new cabinet doors but when I told her the quote for them would be around $1500-2000 she changed her mind.
Maybe this is an excuse to buy tools, I have the know how on how to do then I just would need a router table and a plainer.
Unless you have a LOT of doors, no way would they cost 1500 +
have a look at this- pick you door style, put in quanity, dimensions & wood type for an idea as to cost. Professional doors, well made
I priced my kitchen (14 doors raised panel cherry- their "windsor " style)) & they came out to around $ 825 including freight.
Veneering to do the boxes, styles & rails isn't expensive- lots of youtube videos on cabinet refacing.
http://www.barkerdoor.com/Wood-Cabinet-Doors-s/5.htm
have a look at this- pick you door style, put in quanity, dimensions & wood type for an idea as to cost. Professional doors, well made
I priced my kitchen (14 doors raised panel cherry- their "windsor " style)) & they came out to around $ 825 including freight.
Veneering to do the boxes, styles & rails isn't expensive- lots of youtube videos on cabinet refacing.
http://www.barkerdoor.com/Wood-Cabinet-Doors-s/5.htm
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OP
Gfercaks33
Well-known member
Here they are, I need to do the drawer front. The wife seams happy with them
cowboy73
Well-known member
Long as the wife is happy, I'd call it good. Doesn't look bad to me! 