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Worth buying Rotozip for basement reno?

Nick_Wa

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I just ordered my drywall today to finish up the basement renovation. I have approximately 40 outlets and 15 light switches that will need to be cutout.

Is it worth getting a Rotozip for the job? I haven't used one before but I also haven't done more then a couple of sheets of drywall at a time either. I have heard mixed reviews but it seems like it would be quite the time saver.

Thanks all
 
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franzdom

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The tool to have these days is an oscillating multitool, OMT. They have revolutionized flush cutting.
 

gungatim

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yes, it's worth it.

and get a rock-ripr T-square with the slots for your blade, also worth it...

and while we're at it, get good quality goldblatt knives in all 3 sizes. don't try to skimp with cheap knives or just one or two sizes...
 

bcradio

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I would say not worth it. Get an oscillating tool instead... much better tool for that I think.
 

Jeeper

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Is there a specific technique for quickly making cutouts in drywall with a multi-tool?

I know with a rototool, you can actually put the dry wall in place, poke the blade into the middle of an outlet, push to the perimeter, jump to the outside of the box and trace the outlet.

Is there something comparable with an multi-tool or is it measure and cut like with a jab saw.
 

LordPsychon

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In your basement...seriously, go look now!
Oscillating multitool.
No torque steer or directional problems like a rototool.
No learning curve.
POUNDS less dust.

Hf top end is a good unit.
If you have ryobi 18v, buy that.

I used my rototool(ryobi 18v) last week for the first time in a long time to make a free hand four inch round hole.
I forgot how much I disliked that thing.

Rototool will do the job, but with unneeded trauma.

I'll second that - I like my Spiral Saw (the Rototool) but it needs a jig to keep it from wandering all over the place. I love my OMT - make sure you get high quality blades (Bosch or Dremel tend to be good choices, Fein's are more expensive but also are pretty good) or you're going to pay more later (avoid Dewalt and Rockwell, neither seem that great and head-to-head have Dewalts failing mid-job consistently).
 

jpinca

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or Dremel with spiral cutter and guide.

r03394v23%20r23100v17.jpg
 

jakemac

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Is there a specific technique for quickly making cutouts in drywall with a multi-tool?

I know with a rototool, you can actually put the dry wall in place, poke the blade into the middle of an outlet, push to the perimeter, jump to the outside of the box and trace the outlet.

Is there something comparable with an multi-tool or is it measure and cut like with a jab saw.

It's mostly measure and cut.
If you hold the nozzle from your shop vac near the blade as you cut, you can catch most of the dust before it hits the floor. Making cleanup much easier.
 

ssdave

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I wouldn't buy the rotozip for one small job, especially my first, and especially if someone else will tape and mud. The learning curve is steep, and the taper/mudder might do a much poorer job if they have to deal with the irritation of an amateur rotozip job.

40 outlets and 15 light switches are maybe two hours worth of hand cutting, max. A rotozip might shave 30 minutes off of that time.

If you want a OMT for something else, and want to learn to use it here, it could be a good excuse to get one.

Personally, I'd save my purchasing for another time when I need the OMT. I own a roto-zip, have done many, many sheetrock jobs, (did one yesterday, two small ones today) and I often hand saw instead of roto-zip anyway. Only on large, new construction jobs do I use the roto-zip. Dust, noise, extra tool on the job makes it not worthwhile for small jobs. Amateurs that just want to use the tool instead of thinking about time savings and appropriate use might use a roto-zip for everything. Many times a hand saw is faster and does a neater job.
 

LordPsychon

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In your basement...seriously, go look now!
It's mostly measure and cut.
If you hold the nozzle from your shop vac near the blade as you cut, you can catch most of the dust before it hits the floor. Making cleanup much easier.

I agree with that. The new Rotozip's supposed to have a Dust Vault that reportedly can accomplish the same thing but I have my doubts - most dust elimination systems that are non vacuum based tend to fail at critical moments (for me at least).:lol:
 

Slowgsr

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Drywall saw? Rotozip has a drastic learning curve.

And a oscillating tool on drywall? That's goingvto chew blades and you can't cut potlights.
Never in my life have I seen a drywaller with an oscillating tool.
 

LordPsychon

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In your basement...seriously, go look now!
Drywall saw? Rotozip has a drastic learning curve.

And a oscillating tool on drywall? That's goingvto chew blades and you can't cut potlights.
Never in my life have I seen a drywaller with an oscillating tool.

A carbide plunge blade can do wonders on drywall, believe you me. I grant you that the Rotozip has a tremendous learning curve but if you treat it like a router (and really, that's all it is: a router with a spiral bit) you can manage it quite well.
 

jd_1138

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I bought a Ryobi JobPlus oscillating tool -- part of the 18V One lineup. I love it. If you already have a cordless power tool system, chances are the maker also produces an oscillating tool for it. I paid $50 for it from a tool reseller.

ryorzrp340_b.jpg
 
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LordPsychon

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In your basement...seriously, go look now!
I bought a Ryobi JobPlus oscillating tool -- part of the 18V One lineup. I love it. If you already have a cordless power tool system, chances are the maker also producers an oscillating tool for it.

ryorzrp340_b.jpg

I love mine too - they are supposed to be compatible with the Ridgid Jobmax line which really is a nice selling point but in truth their heads are underpowered and overpriced, only the recip head seems decent enough to purchase.
 

jd_1138

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I love mine too - they are supposed to be compatible with the Ridgid Jobmax line which really is a nice selling point but in truth their heads are underpowered and overpriced, only the recip head seems decent enough to purchase.

Yep, I just use mine as an oscillating tool for cutting and sanding. I don't need the JobMax head attachments for drilling, recip saw, etc., as I already own a Ryobi cordless impact, drill, recip, circular saw, etc.. Trying to get it to do ALL of that is like trying to rebuild an engine with an adjustable wrench.

Perhaps the drill attachment might be cool to drill fasteners in tight areas. I might pick one up someday.
 

Slowgsr

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A carbide plunge blade can do wonders on drywall, believe you me. I grant you that the Rotozip has a tremendous learning curve but if you treat it like a router (and really, that's all it is: a router with a spiral bit) you can manage it quite well.

I have an oscillating tool, and I only use it for cutting wood to get receptaclr boxes in.
I'm just telling you what the pros do.
I'm not a DIYer, or retired. So I see how things are done current day, I'm an electrician and work closely with drywallers prior to rough in for layout.

The OP should stick with a tape measure and a drywall saw, the only benefit to the rotozip is to follow edges of devices once the sheet is tacked up.
 

LordPsychon

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In your basement...seriously, go look now!
I have an oscillating tool, and I only use it for cutting wood to get receptaclr boxes in.
I'm just telling you what the pros do.
I'm not a DIYer, or retired. So I see how things are done current day, I'm an electrician and work closely with drywallers prior to rough in for layout.

The OP should stick with a tape measure and a drywall saw, the only benefit to the rotozip is to follow edges of devices once the sheet is tacked up.

But where's the fun in doing things the right way? I learn more from screwing up than from having everything turn out alright.:lol_hitti
 
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Nick_Wa

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I considered the rotozip because I could put a sheet up and cut it in place without having to measure and cut first. Sounds like I should just measure and cut instead.

I have the Milwaukee M18 system so I may pick up a multi tool at some point. I like the flush cut feature.
 

theoldwizard1

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You have to be careful with anything that wants to run along the side of a box. Very easy to cut through a plastic box.
 

CTyankee

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I have an oscillating tool, and I only use it for cutting wood to get receptaclr boxes in.
I'm just telling you what the pros do.
I'm not a DIYer, or retired. So I see how things are done current day, I'm an electrician and work closely with drywallers prior to rough in for layout.

The OP should stick with a tape measure and a drywall saw, the only benefit to the rotozip is to follow edges of devices once the sheet is tacked up.

Ahhhh...The rare voice of reason manages to surface from among a plethora of posts.
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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I just ordered my drywall today to finish up the basement renovation. I have approximately 40 outlets and 15 light switches that will need to be cutout.

Is it worth getting a Rotozip for the job? I haven't used one before but I also haven't done more then a couple of sheets of drywall at a time either. I have heard mixed reviews but it seems like it would be quite the time saver.

Thanks all


For a Basement? Sounds like a small house!:lol_hitti
I don't think I have put in 55 boxes in in my whole life across 2 houses renovated and one 40x64 shop I built!

Yeah, I'd buy the roto-oscillating tool!
 

Tucko

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If you have to ask if you should buy a tool, then maybe this forum isn't for you. YES!! Buy it!!! :lol_hitti
 

jd_1138

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For a Basement? Sounds like a small house!:lol_hitti
I don't think I have put in 55 boxes in in my whole life across 2 houses renovated and one 40x64 shop I built!

Yeah, I'd buy the roto-oscillating tool!

I hear ya. On my mom's recently remodeled house, I think it has 8 outlets in each bedroom (3 bedrooms), and 4 or 5 in the kitchen. For a total of about 40 outlets, and I thought that was a lot of outlets. :thumbup:
 

CTyankee

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So this first time, doesn't have a tool, has no idea where to start guy should do only as the pros do and not what is best for dyi guy?
It's because production time is going to be so important, isn't it? Or is it because he'll just have to throw that severely limited use tool away after he gets those boxes in?

Lots of fossils won't get a smart phone and they justify that somehow.
I'm betting lots of pros are the same way... We've always done it that way....

Maybe... The ten thousandth box those pros put in... This month alone, allows for some muscle memory that a dyi guy will never develop the skill, nor need the speed of a pro.

Buy the multitool.

Sorry if this sounds so harsh, but just because you see electricians do work doesn't negate the diy opinions of the dozen or so dyi posters here.

Ahhhh.....The quite common voice of BS emerges from the depths because there are those that think they are always right...about everything.
 

Elginz

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Three rules to live by.
If you need a tool for a job, get it.
If you want a tool for a job, get it.
If you might use a tool for a job, get it.

After all you need the right tools for the job, if you don't know which tool are the right ones for the job you better have them all just in case.

The learning curve can come later.
 

kctyphoon

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i drywalled my entire house by myself.. i own a rotozip - never used it once.. i just meansured and cut out for the outlets before i hung each sheet.. i honestly can count on one hand the the amount of times ive used that tool in the last 10 years..
 

redmondjp

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Another vote for the rotozip. I rarely use it, but every few years when I need to cut a hole in drywall, I use it. Mine came with a clear plastic vacuum attachment that catches 99% of the dust, and that's the main reason why I use it.

And as far as cutting through a plastic electrical box with one - sure, you can do it, but for those not familiar with the rotozip bits: the ones for drywall have no flutes for the first 3/16" on the end of the tip. This is the guide portion of the bit. You set the depth of the bit such that only this smooth portion of the bit tip comes through the drywall (or maybe just a bit further).

So when you have the drywall flush up against the electrical box, the idea is that you plunge through the drywall in the center, and then zip out until you hit the inside edge of the box (so you only have to be +/- 1" on the center of the box marked on the drywall to start with). Then you pull out slightly, and then put the bit back in when it's on the outside edge of the box - then you follow the outside edge of the box all the way around.

The key is to use light pressure, and not to force the bit - you do have to fight the spin of the bit, but once you get used to that, it's not bad. You will quickly find out which direction to go around the box for best results.

And for me, since I don't do this very often, I really get a kick out of using the rotozip since it works so well. They aren't that expensive, so my vote is to get one and practice a bit with it first (the local big box stores give away partial pieces of drywall for free, at least in my area).
 

finn

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I bought one, but found that it's not really much of a timesaver over an old fashioned drywall saw when cleaning up the mess it makes is factored in.

There are times that it helps, but overall it is a disappointment.
 

gungatim

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Because the Dremel's VSR it's easier to control - a spiral saw usually starts at 25000 rpm and goes as high as 33000 rpm.

DO NOT use dremel with the spiral setup. I had that and ruined it. It's not sealed against dust and the motor and bearings will get ruined...learned that the hard way. either get a rotozip, or I guess the multi-tools, since lots of people seem to recommend them. I've never used one so can't advise on that but a rotozip will be quick and easy after you've done one or two and get the hang of the torque. the dremel adapter setup is a bad afterthought, sticks out too far, doesn't slide smooth, etc...
 

nfk

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I use a rotozip for drywall and it works well for me. I have never had a chance to try out a multi tool.
 

Dagny

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Watch an experienced drywaller use one and it's hard to imagine anything better.I am also an electrician and have a roto zip but I am somewhat slower with it. The multi tool is better for hardwood like cutting boxes into island cabinets because it cuts slower and is easy to handle.
 

LordPsychon

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In your basement...seriously, go look now!
DO NOT use dremel with the spiral setup. I had that and ruined it. It's not sealed against dust and the motor and bearings will get ruined...learned that the hard way. either get a rotozip, or I guess the multi-tools, since lots of people seem to recommend them. I've never used one so can't advise on that but a rotozip will be quick and easy after you've done one or two and get the hang of the torque. the dremel adapter setup is a bad afterthought, sticks out too far, doesn't slide smooth, etc...

Yeah, my bad, I meant for use on plywood not drywall (too much dust will foul the motor).
 

JettaGetUpandGo

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What about a Dremel Trio? It can be set up with the same bit as a Roto Zip and has a wider base for more stability. It never sold well, so lots of stores priced them low to clear out inventory. I bought one for $59 a couple of years ago and honestly haven't found a use for it, but it sounds like it would work well for you.

Here's one for $50: http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/Dre...earch&gslfah&gclid=CMyNyIrWt8YCFQYoaQodsGYEsw
 

signcrafter

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Lots of opinions posted. I did drywall, mostly commercial for years and still do a bunch each year. I have 2 rotozips and one Porter cable "rotozips" type tool. Also have an oscillating tool. Rotozips are great for drywall work. But as mentioned they do have a learning curve and if you don't catch on quick you will make who ever is finishing the drywall very frustrated. I haven't priced them lately but I wouldn't get a rotozip for one basement job unless it was pretty cheap. If u do get one do some practice cuts. Nail some extra boxes on the wall and screw on little pieces of drywall and get the hang of tracing the box with the bit. Also when you do this you only put a couple screws in the sheet to hold it and then cut the box then finish screwing the sheet off.

About the only thing I use my rotozips for is drywall. Once on a great while I will find a task that the rotozip shines at. But like mentioned the oscillating tool is more versital. Maybe look for a used rotozip for cheap. And also pick up an oscillating tool. Try them both out.
 
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Nick_Wa

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Was going to order the HF rotozip tool but decided against it (I'm in Canada). I ended up just measuring, tracing boxes, and cutting with a keyhole saw and utility knife. Worked out and wasn't a huge burden. Figured I'd save a few bucks and in the end I didn't mind having to do it manually. I'm sure I would have made some errors learning with the roto anyways.
 

MoonRise

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Hmmm, should you buy a tool for a job?

Yup.

Next question. :D

re: Dremel vs Rotozip

Dremel is <= ~1 amp motor IIRC (all the ones I've had, used, or looked at, not going to bother running through current model list )

Rotozip is >= ~5 amp motor IIRC

Tired of bogging down the rather wimpy motor on a Dremel? BTDT. Get a Rotozip. Don't think I've ever bogged down -that- motor.

To me, a Rotozip is kind-of like a Dremel. On steroids. Or bionics (better, stronger, faster. Way less than $6 million though, thank goodness. :D ) Can get a flex-shaft too, or at least you could a few years ago (listed under the "retired Products" tab at the Rotozip website now). It's bigger and heavier than a Dremel though.

(pssst, both Dremel and Rotozip are both now under the Bosch 'umbrella'.)

btw, isn't the motto "Buy them all". :D

Oh, and oscillating tools can be handy too. See, you do have to buy them all!
 

Ratchet Guy

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bought a rotozip that was intended to cut circular pattern on a tile, too slow and too dusty, ended up using a angle grinder and it was much faster, didnt use a rotozip on a drywall, just good old utility knife and a large T square, for cutting square hole, drywall saw.
 
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