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Rustoleum appliance epoxy is AMAZING. new love

back2class

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Jan 7, 2009
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2,723
What a great product. Somehow with all my projects I never tried this stuff. I noticed on the web it being mentioned as a good chemical resistant finish and tried it. Now I have always been a big fan of Rustoleum in the can and also pretty pleased overall with the regular rattle cans they have too. With a lot of prep on smaller items I could get professional level gloss with the spray and very durable long lasting results with the can. But, this epoxy is amazng! Now, not a 2 part epoxy, seems to be an epoxy in the sense that O2 is the catalyst, but not a true epoxy as we think of. But it just like epoxy's it is not very UV resistant so I do not think it is just regular enamel. Results day ago on a well prepped set of harley fork legs were stellar. Was able to flow a thick coat of black over red primer in one application and flow out was "professional" good. I have sprayed high end House Of Kolor multi part paints and clears before and it flowed like that...little slower and thicker than typical super thin rattle stuff, and over about 10 seconds flowed glass flat, just flawless deep black. Here is why I am raving though. As the paint began to dry enough to be dust and bug safe, I moved it out to the sun to cure. Bird must have landed on one or something and it fell over marring up the finish. Directions say can't re-coat for a week and that *****. Left it out in the sun today and this evening I happened to have a gas soaked rag in my hand, so decided to have at the marred area to wipe some paint off so there would be less to sand off next week. Well about 30 aggressive strokes up and down the length of the leg has had almost no effect on the finish. This paint is on pretty thick and I can still dent it a bit pressing on the paint with my fingernail. So not fully cured and still amazingly fuel resistant. Any regular rattle can paint even after a day or so in the sun would soften up in a few seconds doing this and begin to dissolve. The epoxy stuff is still very shiny, maybe a slight loss of gloss from the cotton rag scratching the surface, but no observable effect on it chemically. Just amazing! By far and away the best rattle can paint I have ever used. Now, the down side it that from what I have gathered is that UV resistance is poor, so it will not last well in outdoor uses. It will be fine for a motorcycle that spends most of its life in the garage, underhood parts, shop tools and such. May have to test it's limits, but common sense should prevail, don't paint something that gets stored outside with it and don't expect it to act as a "fuel proof" product. Will be using a lot more of this stuff in the future!
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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16,939
Yep, good stuff. I buy all appliances scratch and dent. A little rustoleum for scratches and a carefully placed magnet for dents.
 

gungatim

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Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
it works great except for appliances...used it to repaint a stove once. it is not heat resistant...but it works great on other things. love the smell too....

PS try some paragraphs when you write a novel post like that, helps to read...
 

theoldwizard1

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,072
Location
SE MI
... a well prepped set of harley fork legs ...
The key to ANY successful paint job !

.. Was able to flow a thick coat of black over red primer ...
Rustoleum makes a self-etching primer. People swear by it especially on aluminum.

Rustloeum also makes a "high build" primer, which fully cures in 4 hours, so you can start sanding the same day.


Another product that gets overlooked is Valspar Tractor and Implement Enamel. Limited colors. If you buy the quarts, the trick is to add some Enamel Hardener before applying. Almost as tough as epoxy once it cures.
 
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sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
Messages
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Location
Brethren, Michigan
I agree about the rusto appliance stuff. I got a couple old white work trucks. We painted them 20 yrs ago and there are some minor spots make it look worse than it is. Sometimes I wash up, spray a bit of that in a couple light coats and it looks amazingly good for a season, never give it a seconds thought in a drive by.
I used it on this, lasted 6 months quite nice for a couple hrs work. Worked good enough to do a grill piece after a collision repair and fool an adjuster.
I got bright white tape too,,, ha
 

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back2class

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Jan 7, 2009
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Yeah, their etching primer is good stuff too. I used that under the red primer and over the bare alum. Doesn't sand as nicely as the regular red or grey primers and for this application likely un-needed. But yeah, there are some good products out there for small projects if you know what to buy and how to use them.
 
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back2class

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I take it back. After having used it for a project on a few items it has some flaws. It LOVES to wrinkle! There seems to be a pretty narrow sweet spot between where you get good gloss flow out and too thick a film that will wrinkles after a few days. So I no longer love it, but now that I know, think I will have better results. Sadly, I now need to re-paint some stuff that took a lot of prep work. Live and learn.
 
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rustyjames

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Dec 28, 2008
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central nj
Typically, when you get wrinkling, it's a reaction with previous layers of paint that is the cause, especially if you're really laying the paint on heavy.
 
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back2class

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Jan 7, 2009
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Agree, but in this case it was the epoxy paint. I know because one of the things that wrinkled was over scuffed chrome with no primer. Uneven drying maybe because of the heat in the shop. Top hardens up and traps the underlying paint..now have wrinkles and expect it to take months to harden.
 
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hawaiiysr

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
58
Location
Hawaii!!!
IV been using the same stuff for odd parts at work. I can say much about the UV factor as the parts have not been in use much yet. I like the fact that no primer is needed. Iv been using this paint on freshly sand blasted parts. Results are good. I let the parts sit out and cure for a couple days in the sun. And yes, too thick and it wrinkles. I'll post some pics later
 

2nrguy

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Sep 24, 2014
Messages
158
Like most other paint projects, the quality of cleaning the product being painted affects the finished look.
 

hawaiiysr

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
58
Location
Hawaii!!!
The spindles above are cast. I sand blasted cleaned and tapped off areas I did not want painted. I've painted other parts with the same prep. The only difference is the the parts were not cast. The out come was much different.
 

ebonyswan

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Feb 29, 2012
Messages
53
Location
Mission, BC, Canada
*sigh*. The return button is your, and everyone else's friend. Had to do this to be able to read your post without a headache.

What a great product.

Somehow with all my projects I never tried this stuff. I noticed on the web it being mentioned as a good chemical resistant finish and tried it. Now I have always been a big fan of Rustoleum in the can and also pretty pleased overall with the regular rattle cans they have too. With a lot of prep on smaller items I could get professional level gloss with the spray and very durable long lasting results with the can. But, this epoxy is amazng!

Now, not a 2 part epoxy, seems to be an epoxy in the sense that O2 is the catalyst, but not a true epoxy as we think of. But it just like epoxy's it is not very UV resistant so I do not think it is just regular enamel.

Results day ago on a well prepped set of harley fork legs were stellar. Was able to flow a thick coat of black over red primer in one application and flow out was "professional" good. I have sprayed high end House Of Kolor multi part paints and clears before and it flowed like that...little slower and thicker than typical super thin rattle stuff, and over about 10 seconds flowed glass flat, just flawless deep black.

Here is why I am raving though. As the paint began to dry enough to be dust and bug safe, I moved it out to the sun to cure. Bird must have landed on one or something and it fell over marring up the finish. Directions say can't re-coat for a week and that *****. Left it out in the sun today and this evening I happened to have a gas soaked rag in my hand, so decided to have at the marred area to wipe some paint off so there would be less to sand off next week. Well about 30 aggressive strokes up and down the length of the leg has had almost no effect on the finish. This paint is on pretty thick and I can still dent it a bit pressing on the paint with my fingernail. So not fully cured and still amazingly fuel resistant.

Any regular rattle can paint even after a day or so in the sun would soften up in a few seconds doing this and begin to dissolve. The epoxy stuff is still very shiny, maybe a slight loss of gloss from the cotton rag scratching the surface, but no observable effect on it chemically. Just amazing! By far and away the best rattle can paint I have ever used.

Now, the down side it that from what I have gathered is that UV resistance is poor, so it will not last well in outdoor uses. It will be fine for a motorcycle that spends most of its life in the garage, underhood parts, shop tools and such. May have to test it's limits, but common sense should prevail, don't paint something that gets stored outside with it and don't expect it to act as a "fuel proof" product.

Will be using a lot more of this stuff in the future!
 
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