What did you do "IN" your garage today?

[damiansd]

Bought some timber and a Forster bit to mount some doors on the overhead bookshelves I've been building.

 

[Nexussian]

Sure looks like Goldendales old parts runner?

That's what I was thinking, from the Car Quest.

 

[landrover bodger]

started removing the transmission from my discovery to replace the broken flexplate

 

[JimbosGarage]

I actually managed to get out of my garage.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sbwLarFbVK8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[dcmus]

Yesterday and today. New ceiling tile, insulation in ceiling, and cleanest the floor has been since I purchased.

Now for the next step. Desk, Internet, and tunes. At some point I'll work IN the shop rather than ON the shop[emoji106]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I see wall tiles... It does look very nice!

Tommy

 

[Outlander]

Lots of visitors around here today so after mine all left I had a 3 hr nap. I will get back to my trailer suspension work after supper, or tomorrow.

 

[Outlawmws]

Wall lighting too!

 

[Jagmandave]

I found out why the aux cooling fan on my classic Mini wasn't running. After tracing things with a test light, I found a blown fuse. I'm not one to just replace a fuse so I did some further testing and found the way I had wired the aux fuse panel that feeds the fan and my driving and fog lights wasn't wired quite right, it was pretty easy to re-land one of the wires so all the load wasn't running thru one fuse.

Job done, now everything works and it shouldn't pop again.

I rarely need the aux fan, since I have an electric fuel pump mounted near the tank I don't suffer from vapor lock so it doesn't need to run on shutdown for it to restart, and I have an aux radiator (an extra heater core mounted in the grill) but I keep that closed off most of the time unless it's over 90*. The other day I'd just come off the highway on a hot day with the aux radiator shut off and got stuck at a long stoplight and noticed the temp above 200 -fortunately the light changed then and it cooled off as soon as I got moving - but that's when I noticed the little fan wasn't running.

It's just an extra measure of security as these little cars were not designed for our midwestern heat.

 

[jshillin]

Wasn't in my garage today, but my dad's. I did however take my Milwaukee impacts and a few other things though. We had to change the driver side wheel bearing on his '05 Escape. They live in the mountains of WV so every bolt was a bit rusty and fought the whole way, but we got it swapped out. Only one side was bad, but I'm pretty sure we will change the other side this fall before the weather starts changing.

 

[Kevkx125]

Not much just had to replace taillight bulb on the d.d.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Dragged all my framing stuff out of the shop. Then my 30yo Duofast framing nailer just died and I opened it up to assess the mess. Looks like just one big seal ring split. The part is cheap, but I'm looking at a week to get it.

 

[zcar751]

I worked on the heart of the beast all weekend building it back up from a complete tear down. Got to a the water pump and after evaluation decided better put a new one than risk having the old one fail down the road.
View media item 51766

 

[NUTTSGT]

Added some polyiso in the front overhang above the ceiling.

 

[Hybridss]

I purchased a decent shape Mobilaire 3 blade fan with the 6 sided motor. It worked great in my garage for about 3 years. I then decided to repaint it and clean it up just to make it look a little cleaner. I am definitely not a "restorer". I just like to take old things and bring them back to useful condition and do some cleaning and touch up along the way. Anyways...I did the repaint and clean up and it came out pretty good. See pics below. After this repaint the fan worked good for a day. Then I was working in the shop and I heard a nice POP and a breaker popped. I didnt see what the culprit was since I had many things running but I suspected the fan. I thought maybe I got paint on the motor circuit or brushes causing high resistance or something wacky. I reset the breaker and everything worked fine including the fan. I tapped and shook the fan and tried to get it to fail again but it ran fine. It worked for about 4 more months just fine and then 2 days ago I went to turn it on and it popped with a nice spark and then shut down. It would not come back on and no breakers were popped. Clearly there was a failure of either the motor or the wiring or the switch. I did a search on this motor and there wasn't much info. It did lead me here and I got some info. I decided to dig into the fan and investigate. I pulled the fan apart and pulled the motor and switch and cord out to put it on the bench as one unit. I pulled the back of the switch off. Loosened the jam nut and pulled the switch cover off. The switch looked to be in amazing shape as was the cord terminals. The other wires were of a different type and seemed to be ok at least at the switch terminals. Inspecting the wire from the switch that went to the motor showed that these wires were not in good shape. The insulation was very very very brittle and could not withstand any bending without crumbling and exposing bare copper conductor. There were several places were the wiring bent around something , such as entering the motor housing where all 5 wires had broken insulation and the conductors were touching or close to touching. I found another run were several wires had clearly touched and melted and caused an "open". This was the culprit. Normal procedures would be to make a splice. But in this case no splice was possible on any inch of this wiring. It was not going to withstand the slightest touch. It was clear motor replacement was the best option. A quick search turned up nothing. The options to find another 50 year old motor was also less than desirable after inspecting this wiring. All other Westinghouse fans that use this insulation were likely to be the same. I decided to dig further and take apart the motor. Three long bolts with nuts and the motor came apart in four pieces. The front cover, rear cover, center body that housed the coils and the center rotating shaft. All of these parts probably have trade names but I dont know the jargon. You get the idea though. I also noticed at this point this motor had no brushes. I suppose my notion that these motors had brushes is probably due to my ignorance regarding AC motors. DC motors tend to have brushes from my limited experience. This meant that if I could rewire this motor this thing would likely last another 50 years. The bearings in the front and rear covers still mated very very well with the shaft and it had very very little play. I found that the five wires that came out of the switch that enter the fan housing actually are routed the the center body that contain the coils. It was routed from the back through one of the openings to the front of the coils. I had to carefully break all the old strings used to tie the wires during assy. These strings were rock hard and it took a pick to break each one. Next a razor knife was used to cut the "snake skin" conduit in an attempt to free each of the five wires. The goal here was to free each wire so I could find out were they terminate. As I slowly tugged each wire out I found that they were all terminated to the end of a particular coil. Some also had a jumper wire so there were three wires on some. I pulled each one out so it could be worked on. See pics. I left the wires still hooked up all the way to the switch...except the one that broke. This was i could physically follow the wire from each coil, through the body and back to the switch and hopefully make the connections. I used some aircraft wire that is very very tough for the replacement. I stripped the ends and snaked it through the coil using the same route as the previous wiring. I would pick out a particular previous wire and follow it to were it was soldered to the coil wire, snip the original wire leaving the previous solder joint and then solder the new wire in place. I would then pull the old wire out. I repeated this for the other wires and jumper wires. until all new wires were soldered to coil wires and the old wires were pulled out. I then used electrical tape to wrap those areas and tucked the ends back into the coil spaces where they were previously. One thing to note here...the coil wires appear to be bare copper wires. But it is my understanding that they are actually lacquer covered copper wires. it is important to not damage any part of the coil wires and also to not melt the wire too much so that the wire becomes exposed too far from the solder joint. Cover as much as you can to ensure there will be no internal shorts. Here is a close up of one of the original wires and how it looks terminating to a coil wire. It looks like this one had two coil wires and one incoming wire and one jumper. Here is another pic of a single wire coming through the body (in the snake skin loom) and terminating to a single coil wire. These are easy. What it looked like when all the new wires were run, soldered, and tucked back in. The old wiring...very dangerous IMO. But lasted 50 years. The newly rewired motor installed with new pig tail exposed running from the back of the motor to the switch. Note the fan is running. I had no idea if this would work. I have just basic electrical knowledge acquired while working aircraft. Some of what i am saying could very well be wrong...or not up to par with existing codes and regulations. Do this at your own risk. Messing with coil windings on motors and generators is a trade unto its self. Having said that...if I had to do this again it would be much easier. I hope someone can find this useful. This took about 3 hours and much of that was just poking around trying to figure out the routing without damaging anything.

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

Cleaned up my latest flea market tool finds. Also discovered my water heater in the basement is leaking

 

[polexican23]

replaced rear calipers on 02 Exploder with 308K miles on the dial. thankfully the Ebrake didn't hassle me.

 

[cynicalrider]

Fixed the rear seat catch on my R6.

 

[aar0s]

Used my leaf blower to blow out the dust, dried grass and dead bugs.

 

[Outlander]

No power when I woke up so I treated myself to breakfast out, then came home and finished up the suspension on the ATV trailer. Clean up took a while, too!

 

[zmotorsports]

Saturday morning before the heat got too bad, I went out and serviced the Aqua-Hot unit on our coach. Then kicked on the fan in the shop and finished up the axles on a Jeep that I had been working on so the guy could pick it up. Yesterday the wife and I went for a ride and enjoyed what was left of our weekend.

Mike.

 

[patrickn]

I worked on the heart of the beast all weekend building it back up from a complete tear down. Got to a the water pump and after evaluation decided better put a new one than risk having the old one fail down the road.
View media item 51766

Looks like we are doing similar things, except mine is a 82 Bronco and I ripped it all down to the frame lol.

Good choice, in replacing the WP seeing that you have it a part and it will be easier to do it now than later when the engine is back in. I love doing this stuff, except now with my medical issues it takes me 3x as long to do it.

Keep us updated (or at least me lol).

 

[OldracerJones]

Worked on my 62 Ford F-100 restore. Putting in a 4-link suspension and have had to swap retreads. Using a 1997 Ford Explorer unit so have to cut and grind the brackets of the axle tubes. Also installed tires on rims for the truck.
Finished putting my security system on wireless so I can view it in Houston while away. Adjusted all 3 garage doors to make the opening and closing much easier.

 

[Steevo]

I purchased a decent shape Mobilaire 3 blade fan with the 6 sided motor. It worked great in my garage for about 3 years. I then decided to repaint it and clean it up just to make it look a little cleaner. I am definitely not a "restorer". I just like to take old things and bring them back to useful condition and do some cleaning and touch up along the way. Anyways...I did the repaint and clean up and it came out pretty good. See pics below.After this repaint the fan worked good for a day. Then I was working in the shop and I heard a nice POP and a breaker popped. I didnt see what the culprit was since I had many things running but I suspected the fan. I thought maybe I got paint on the motor circuit or brushes causing high resistance or something wacky. I reset the breaker and everything worked fine including the fan. I tapped and shook the fan and tried to get it to fail again but it ran fine. It worked for about 4 more months just fine and then 2 days ago I went to turn it on and it popped with a nice spark and then shut down. It would not come back on and no breakers were popped. Clearly there was a failure of either the motor or the wiring or the switch. I did a search on this motor and there wasn't much info. It did lead me here and I got some info. I decided to dig into the fan and investigate. I pulled the fan apart and pulled the motor and switch and cord out to put it on the bench as one unit. I pulled the back of the switch off. Loosened the jam nut and pulled the switch cover off. The switch looked to be in amazing shape as was the cord terminals. The other wires were of a different type and seemed to be ok at least at the switch terminals. Inspecting the wire from the switch that went to the motor showed that these wires were not in good shape. The insulation was very very very brittle and could not withstand any bending without crumbling and exposing bare copper conductor. There were several places were the wiring bent around something , such as entering the motor housing where all 5 wires had broken insulation and the conductors were touching or close to touching. I found another run were several wires had clearly touched and melted and caused an "open". This was the culprit. Normal procedures would be to make a splice. But in this case no splice was possible on any inch of this wiring. It was not going to withstand the slightest touch. It was clear motor replacement was the best option. A quick search turned up nothing. The options to find another 50 year old motor was also less than desirable after inspecting this wiring. All other Westinghouse fans that use this insulation were likely to be the same. I decided to dig further and take apart the motor. Three long bolts with nuts and the motor came apart in four pieces. The front cover, rear cover, center body that housed the coils and the center rotating shaft. All of these parts probably have trade names but I dont know the jargon. You get the idea though. I also noticed at this point this motor had no brushes. I suppose my notion that these motors had brushes is probably due to my ignorance regarding AC motors. DC motors tend to have brushes from my limited experience. This meant that if I could rewire this motor this thing would likely last another 50 years. The bearings in the front and rear covers still mated very very well with the shaft and it had very very little play. I found that the five wires that came out of the switch that enter the fan housing actually are routed the the center body that contain the coils. It was routed from the back through one of the openings to the front of the coils. I had to carefully break all the old strings used to tie the wires during assy. These strings were rock hard and it took a pick to break each one. Next a razor knife was used to cut the "snake skin" conduit in an attempt to free each of the five wires. The goal here was to free each wire so I could find out were they terminate. As I slowly tugged each wire out I found that they were all terminated to the end of a particular coil. Some also had a jumper wire so there were three wires on some. I pulled each one out so it could be worked on. See pics.I left the wires still hooked up all the way to the switch...except the one that broke. This was i could physically follow the wire from each coil, through the body and back to the switch and hopefully make the connections. I used some aircraft wire that is very very tough for the replacement. I stripped the ends and snaked it through the coil using the same route as the previous wiring. I would pick out a particular previous wire and follow it to were it was soldered to the coil wire, snip the original wire leaving the previous solder joint and then solder the new wire in place. I would then pull the old wire out. I repeated this for the other wires and jumper wires. until all new wires were soldered to coil wires and the old wires were pulled out. I then used electrical tape to wrap those areas and tucked the ends back into the coil spaces where they were previously. One thing to note here...the coil wires appear to be bare copper wires. But it is my understanding that they are actually lacquer covered copper wires. it is important to not damage any part of the coil wires and also to not melt the wire too much so that the wire becomes exposed too far from the solder joint. Cover as much as you can to ensure there will be no internal shorts. Here is a close up of one of the original wires and how it looks terminating to a coil wire. It looks like this one had two coil wires and one incoming wire and one jumper. Here is another pic of a single wire coming through the body (in the snake skin loom) and terminating to a single coil wire. These are easy. What it looked like when all the new wires were run, soldered, and tucked back in. The old wiring...very dangerous IMO. But lasted 50 years. The newly rewired motor installed with new pig tail exposed running from the back of the motor to the switch. Note the fan is running I had no idea if this would work. I have just basic electrical knowledge acquired while working aircraft. Some of what i am saying could very well be wrong...or not up to par with existing codes and regulations. Do this at your own risk. Messing with coil windings on motors and generators is a trade unto its self. Having said that...if I had to do this again it would be much easier. I hope someone can find this useful. This took about 3 hours and much of that was just poking around trying to figure out the routing without damaging anything.

Holy ****.
I'd have called that fan scrap.
You brought it back to life!
Kudos.

 

[Lugnut30]

Organizing, cleaning, worked on a chain saw, and daydreamed about my upcoming detached garage build to be my workshop....

 

[kaymccampbell]

I found a source for seals and whatnot for Duofast guns in the Albany NY area. Capitol Staple on Railroad Ave. Got my $3 poppet seal and put the nailer back together. It fires reliably, but I think I nicked an o-ring on reassembly, as it now has a little air leak. It says something for Duofast that the gun lasted 30 years and I can still get parts. I expect my kids will chuck it long after I'm gone and it will still have been repairable.

 

[patrickn]

Worked on my 62 Ford F-100 restore. Putting in a 4-link suspension and have had to swap retreads. Using a 1997 Ford Explorer unit so have to cut and grind the brackets of the axle tubes. Also installed tires on rims for the truck.
Finished putting my security system on wireless so I can view it in Houston while away. Adjusted all 3 garage doors to make the opening and closing much easier.

Always like the F100s too. Would love to see pics of your work on it.
Have a great night!

 

[patrickn]

Holy ****.
I'd have called that fan scrap.
You brought it back to life!
Kudos.

That is a good example of a resurrection lol.
Great job on detailing the work/repair!
Awesome

 

[Maticuno]

LOF, tire rotation, spark plugs.

 

[Not Bob]

Got more work done on the new outdoor workbench / jack and jackstand storage box.
View media item 51786View media item 51788

 

[Matthew3901]

I repaired a stool that we use at work- one of my pharmacy technicians stood on it and a spot weld broke. Although it was a cheap stool I decided to try repainting it with my HF buzz box flux welder. I ground off the finish and welds to bare metal. I then gave it a fresh coat of paint.

 

[Matthew3901]

I also got around to mounting a 2x4 on my saw horses, and painting them.

 

[dcmus]

Moved a few things to the new shop. It appears it will be the main shop sooner rather than later. Details to follow

 

[Olinrj]

Got to work on the new headboard for our bed as well as the beverage cart for the dining room. The headboard started as an old solid core door with 4 vertical lites. Cut it to size, removed the lite trim pieces and glass and after sanding got two coats of paint on it. The cart started as an old sewing machine table. Just got some sanding done before I had to get ready for work.

 

[Nexussian]

Fixed the lawnmower by replacing the crankshaft key at the flywheel.

 

[Scooter Scott]

Replaced my 3rd set of rear brake pads into the rear of my Jeep JKU. Man those things go down fast. Thank you Autozone lifetime warranty

 

[bodyguy16]

Replaced my 3rd set of rear brake pads into the rear of my Jeep JKU. Man those things go down fast. Thank you Autozone lifetime warranty

They warranty consumables???? Wow we need them up here........

 

[zable9]

Awesome. Good work and good job. This for sharing. Good looking fan

 

[polexican23]

Hung a speaker on my Gladiator slat wall.

 

[Ilikeike]

At lunch, I media blasted the windshield wiper transmission linkage and rattle canned it for my 68 Camaro, and blasted a few other misc. brackets that will be powder coated.


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Partial low quality picture of project