The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
KMScott
Well-known member
Nice lot there Joe, I especially like the 7" Parker, sure beat up the back slider. How are the jaws, they smooth or do they have the hand filed serrations.
joe.striper
Well-known member
Kevin, hence the 100 price tag!i figured under .50 a lb was safe. Jaws are gorgeous. Perfect and sharp. I'll put up more pics tomorrow.
Thats right Kevin, you ain't gettin' this one!!!! (Ok just kidding, it needs a handle. I'll be in touch...OK?)
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btrnuthatch
Well-known member
9350 Triplets I rescued! Well worn -- files, grinder use, rounded jaws -- including paint job. One is in the e-bath now. I've noticed in a few threads including Drives' Wilton date thread that a few Wiltons do not have any date stamped but I haven't found any explanation (someone forgot?). These 3 apparently came from the same timeframe but 2 of the 3 do not have dates like the one that is stamped 12 30(?) 65.
Notice the offset jaw pins. Is that usual/unusual? Doesn't that make consideration for buying new jaws an issue (KMScott)?
I had to drill out 2 jaw bolts. One of the jaws is cracked. How do you manage that? I guess I'll try to TIG weld it by grinding a v-groove on the top/bottom/backside and build up a weld. Other advice? Also, one is completely missing a jaw; that one has the bolts broken off inside so I still have to tackle those extractions. Not sure what to do as a new set of jaws on a beaten up vise is like some in Alaska say is lipstick on a pig. I looked at flipping the jaws as some suggest but it looks a bit goofy IMHO.
Otherwise, the swivels bases are in fine shape notwithstanding the bent handles. I'll clean them down to bare metal and let someone else decide to paint or not. I'm a bit leery to take the main nut out because of what I've read about pin troubles.
Wiltons are nice but I'm choosing Reeds to leave to my 3 grand kids.
Notice the offset jaw pins. Is that usual/unusual? Doesn't that make consideration for buying new jaws an issue (KMScott)?
I had to drill out 2 jaw bolts. One of the jaws is cracked. How do you manage that? I guess I'll try to TIG weld it by grinding a v-groove on the top/bottom/backside and build up a weld. Other advice? Also, one is completely missing a jaw; that one has the bolts broken off inside so I still have to tackle those extractions. Not sure what to do as a new set of jaws on a beaten up vise is like some in Alaska say is lipstick on a pig. I looked at flipping the jaws as some suggest but it looks a bit goofy IMHO.
Otherwise, the swivels bases are in fine shape notwithstanding the bent handles. I'll clean them down to bare metal and let someone else decide to paint or not. I'm a bit leery to take the main nut out because of what I've read about pin troubles.
Wiltons are nice but I'm choosing Reeds to leave to my 3 grand kids.
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I dunno know about those pins being offset. I suspect it's an illusion. Have you pulled them and confirmed?
But I do agree that Reeds are nicer than Wiltons. Every I walk past my 204 1/2R sitting in my closet I pause to smile.....
PghJKB
Well-known member
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
You did good joe!
Help with identification.
Looks like a Parker 954.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
I agree it's a Parker but the flat nose 97 series are the swivel base, so this one is a 953/954 or so.
scooternut
Well-known member
Picked up a few Columbians today CL for 60. Likely good vises for friends after I clean them up
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
Outlawmws
Well-known member
scooternut
Well-known member
One is a 505, the other looks maybe a 4.Picked up a few Columbians today CL for 60. Likely good vises for friends after I clean them up
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
drivesitfar
Well-known member
IH: i see your old Reed is still not cooperating so the alien blood is still pumping in it's veins. even with a bad wing which you repaired nicely I might add i'd still be willing to keep it on my bench for a few years until it was safe to use in your shop with your other nice tools. 
BT: i don't have all the answers to all your Wilton questions but i'll answer a few. first of all the Vise Repair 101 thread is only mine because i started it and i'm the secretary. there are many members here that have way more knowledge and skills that they've shared on that thread and i'm happy to act as sort of the secretary. i learn something almost daily on that thread and can't wait until i get the tools and the skills to try some of their tips. thanks to all my (our) vise gurus for sharing their wisdom on that thread and feel free to post more before and after restorations when you have time. we all love vise pictures.
the Wiltons without dates could be a couple things. one the dates could have been worn off especially if the vises came from a school or shop where they were used a lot. another thing we are finding out on the Wilton date thread is that no dates were stamped until 1945 and we are thinking that all the original bullet vises were sold to Uncle Sam so dates were not needed. then when Uncle Sam dropped them as their vise company after WWII or slowed down production a lot then Wilton dated their vises they sold to give a warranty. post up your vises over on that thread with the slides for our data base when you have time.
the jaws not lining up i'm not sure what to tell you, but KMScott can make you some new jaws that many members are very happy with even if they are still selling their vises so PM or check out his web site.
nice find
JZ: I've seen a few of those little cool looking Record clamp on vises lately and no idea of the size. nice find and any chance you can post up a few pictures with a dollar bill in the picture?
BT: i don't have all the answers to all your Wilton questions but i'll answer a few. first of all the Vise Repair 101 thread is only mine because i started it and i'm the secretary. there are many members here that have way more knowledge and skills that they've shared on that thread and i'm happy to act as sort of the secretary. i learn something almost daily on that thread and can't wait until i get the tools and the skills to try some of their tips. thanks to all my (our) vise gurus for sharing their wisdom on that thread and feel free to post more before and after restorations when you have time. we all love vise pictures.
the Wiltons without dates could be a couple things. one the dates could have been worn off especially if the vises came from a school or shop where they were used a lot. another thing we are finding out on the Wilton date thread is that no dates were stamped until 1945 and we are thinking that all the original bullet vises were sold to Uncle Sam so dates were not needed. then when Uncle Sam dropped them as their vise company after WWII or slowed down production a lot then Wilton dated their vises they sold to give a warranty. post up your vises over on that thread with the slides for our data base when you have time.
the jaws not lining up i'm not sure what to tell you, but KMScott can make you some new jaws that many members are very happy with even if they are still selling their vises so PM or check out his web site.
nice find
JZ: I've seen a few of those little cool looking Record clamp on vises lately and no idea of the size. nice find and any chance you can post up a few pictures with a dollar bill in the picture?
toplessHO
Well-known member
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Thrum: great job on the Record and i think you already know that. any chance that you have before and after pictures to post over on the 101 thread and a link is in my sig line so you won't have to look it up?
what's next? AS #79??
what's next? AS #79??
xxaler
Well-known member
Anyone have any tips on keeping exposed metal on them from rusting? 3 of my cleaned up vises are covered in rust after a week in the shop.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Pretty humid there?
(Gun) Oil, Paste wax; lots of ways to do it.
(Gun) Oil, Paste wax; lots of ways to do it.
I'll second this. I use it on my tools and I'm in a very humid area.
Steve
drivesitfar
Well-known member
**: i third or forth the guy's methods of rust prevention mentioned so far. even if you only can wipe or spray on WD 40 then that will work too. if you want to explore other options i hear Fluid Film is a great product and i think it's call Corrosion X works great too. there are also a few marine products i can't remember the names of that work too.
if you have light rust to remove WD 40 is pretty amazing if you soak a rag, but there might be other products that work better.
if you have light rust to remove WD 40 is pretty amazing if you soak a rag, but there might be other products that work better.
xxaler
Well-known member
Okay thanks guys.
I'll give it a shot with some WD40 on a rag, and I'll keep a look out for some Johnson's Paste Wax.
I'll give it a shot with some WD40 on a rag, and I'll keep a look out for some Johnson's Paste Wax.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
WD-40 won't do much to retard rust... too much solvent, not enough oil...
Aussie Tom
Member
Thank you, both have the original "puck" style anvil inserts. Here are some more pics of the resto, and no I haven't forgotten the Imp 80 which is essentially a small version of the 74, I will probably have to get one shipped from the mother country!
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Outlaw: if you keep it wet WD 40 will keep rust at bay and it does remove surface rust pretty good. unfortunately WD 40 dries out pretty fast so the other options mentioned are much better.
Fretters
Well-known member
Beeswax based furniture wax should be similar to the Johnson's wax, if that's easier to find, or you can make your own with beeswax and gum turpentine. Clear, (natural), boot polish is another option. You can even use vehicle wax.
It is fairly naff as a protective coat against rust. WD40 was half decent as a solvent whilst cleaning on the odd occasions I've tried it. Not sure if it's any good these days since they changed the mix?
Simple oil is my personal preference. Keeps it lubed and protected. An oily rag is worth its weight in gold, IMHO.
It is fairly naff as a protective coat against rust. WD40 was half decent as a solvent whilst cleaning on the odd occasions I've tried it. Not sure if it's any good these days since they changed the mix?
Simple oil is my personal preference. Keeps it lubed and protected. An oily rag is worth its weight in gold, IMHO.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Fretters: since you are talking Beeswax remember Wrenchguy mentioning the $2 wax toilet bowl rings are made of Bee's wax? I'll give that a try because i didn't throw all of the box away that i had stored for maybe 20 years before i heard his tip.
WD 40 isn't my first choice for rust preventive and not my first choice for rust removal but i probably have 10 or so cans that need to be used so it's handy.
WD 40 isn't my first choice for rust preventive and not my first choice for rust removal but i probably have 10 or so cans that need to be used so it's handy.
topop101
Well-known member
Fretters we have a brand of shoe polish here called kiwi, It comes in what's called Neutral color. Or clear. I never thought of using it, that's a great idea. However it's a lil expensive compared to Johnsons paste wax. Toilet wax ring works also but can be tougher to work with unless you soften it a bit.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That's what mixing it with the solvents and stuff is for.
topop101
Well-known member
I finished up a couple , I know many on here don't care much for these lil' open screw vise's but they clean up fast, and sell good. Percent wise, it would make wall street envious. The first one is a Milwaukee 4" painted texture metallic gray with a red base. The second is a vise my daughters bought me not knowing it was a jap vise. They only seen "Craftsman" . I'm not gona discourage them from looking for me so I told them I'd fix it up any way. Black epoxy, and red highlights clear coated the under side of the base and plenty of toppolish
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
You need to post that in the "unofficial Vise parts swap thread"
bagged89s10
Well-known member
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Agreed. It just dries out too fast. I read about using a mineral oil like a 3in1 oil to be a better choice. I like to use a wax because it's just cleaner and you don't have to worry about dust, etc. sticking to the bare metal. Especially if you are using the vise to hold and cut metal, the last thing you want it all the metal shavings stuck to the slide. With wax, you just quickly vacuum or blow the dust away.
I also heard a lot of people just covering their bare metal tools with a rag. It's supposed to help prevent moisture. I don't know if that works or not, but I started covering some of my tools with rags, towels, and old sheets.
joe.striper
Well-known member
Here's how I prevent rust, SELL'EM! Ever seen any of Balane's vises rusty? Well thete you go! A rolling vise gathers no rust.
Scimonetti
Well-known member
Sig worthy right there
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I came across a swivel plate for a #4 record just like I have for my #6.
Unfortunately I didn't get the lock down levered bolts and slugs with it.
No luck in the vise parts thread so here's what I'm whittling up from a piece of 1 1/4 X 1 1/4 donor material.
The 4" parts are slightly smaller than the 6" ones so I had to reduce the slugs to 5/8" height. I'm using the 4 1/2" grinder with a zip disc for most of this plus a bench grinder and belt grinder.
I'm doing the round taper on the lathe freehand. Instead of making the slugs cigar or torpedo shaped like the original ones I'm making one side straight like the inside plate is cut. Only the outside needs to be round like the outer plate.
For the levered bolts I cut down 3/4" rod I had on hand. I'm making the shaft thicker where it fits into the vise base so there is very little slop. I broke both my tap wrenches on the 1st thread. I drilled a hole that I can cut the slots down to with my zip disc.
That's as far as I am till I get more time but it's coming together.
Unfortunately I didn't get the lock down levered bolts and slugs with it.
No luck in the vise parts thread so here's what I'm whittling up from a piece of 1 1/4 X 1 1/4 donor material.
The 4" parts are slightly smaller than the 6" ones so I had to reduce the slugs to 5/8" height. I'm using the 4 1/2" grinder with a zip disc for most of this plus a bench grinder and belt grinder.
I'm doing the round taper on the lathe freehand. Instead of making the slugs cigar or torpedo shaped like the original ones I'm making one side straight like the inside plate is cut. Only the outside needs to be round like the outer plate.
For the levered bolts I cut down 3/4" rod I had on hand. I'm making the shaft thicker where it fits into the vise base so there is very little slop. I broke both my tap wrenches on the 1st thread. I drilled a hole that I can cut the slots down to with my zip disc.
That's as far as I am till I get more time but it's coming together.
oldldh
Well-known member
Do what??
I would have used---"A rolling viCe, gathers no rust!!!"...
That would have gotten everyone leaning---
Especially out buddies from across the pond---
I came across a swivel plate for a #4 record just like I have for my #6.
Your swivel base looks completely different than my #5. Is yours much older than mine?
