To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Help. Any plumbers out there?

7th Kahuna

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1,704
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Years ago an addition was made to the back of my building and the waste lines for the new structure were tied in via an old cleanout. The cleanout originally consisted of a cast iron sanitary tee (1.25") with a threaded plug. The elbow portion connects to a sink in the original structure. They removed the plug and threaded in an unsupported length of steel drain line.

As you might have guessed the steel has rusted out and collapsed. When I went to remove it I discovered that the weight of the 'new' line had fractured the old sanitary tee inside the wall. It appears that it has been leaking inside the wall for years.

My problem: 2/3rds of the old sanitary tee (and all its proximal downstream wasteline - horizontally oriented) is embedded in concrete beneath structure.

My plan: Eventually all this plumbing will be abandoned (and the sink relocated) so for the time being I will redirect all the waste along the face of the wall to another location and tie back into the sewer. I will then be able to abandon the old damaged sanitary tee.

My concern: Though the tee will be abandoned, if the sewer backs up, which it does from time to time (tree roots), waste will again spill into the wall. There is not enough of the old cast iron left to clamp a cap onto. I was thinking about drying out, cleaning (as best I can), and filling the pipe with high expansion spray foam. I also know there are epoxy products on the market (but only for small leaks?).

The guy at HomeDepot told me I have to jackhammer it out, no choice. I might agree except that it doesn't need to be a proper permanent repair and access is a serious issue. I remember years ago a product generically called 'plumber's buddy' or something along those lines, used for leveling fixtures and filling abandoned lines (or not). I don't know if it was water tight or even if it is still available. I am grasping at straws.

Any help or insight would be appreciated. I will be checking in from time to time as work allows.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
7

7th Kahuna

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1,704
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I thought about a twist plug but I'd have to get it back there pretty far to get past the fitting and reach parallel walls.

Hydraulic cement is an idea. I could use foam to create an initial plug and provide backing for the cement. Then press the cement in until I filled the tee solid. The portion of the pipe I need to fill is horizontal so I would need some sort of backing.
 

mobiledynamics

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
5,039
Location
Gotham City
I've use polywater all the time, but this more just for sealing up conduit ends from the elements.

I'm sure rapidset crete, etc exists, but will expansion,contraction, etc between the materials not possible create a good seal....just some food for thought
 
OP
7

7th Kahuna

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1,704
Location
Los Angeles, CA
^Yes, I worry about leaking around the edges. I suppose solids would naturally fill it in time but the solider the repair, the better.

As a side note, it is amazing how many roaches live in the sewer line. Must be all the restaurants in the neighborhood.

It just seems like there should be a product specifically for this purpose.

?????
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,729
Location
SE Michigan
If you can dry it out enough to use some sort of a close fitting plug, if you can use a solvent like brake clean and get each side super-clean, then automotive RTV should be able to seal this for a couple of psi. In the case of a cracked tee, the only way to "clean" it would be to use something like a Dremel tool cutoff wheel to create some fresh metal to bond. What I'm recommending is a product...the repair is jack-leg for sure, but it might save you some work. Eventually all of that should be taken out as even abandoned and cut off somewhere else, its a pathway for insects, rodents, termites, carpenter ants, etc, to get inside the wall of your building without you knowing.
 

Leoruiz

Banned
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Messages
350
The guy at HomeDepot told me I have to jackhammer it out, no choice. I might agree except that it doesn't need to be a proper permanent repair and access is a serious issue.
That's like getting medical advice from a shoe salesman.:p
Dry it out. Put a rag on a snake and rinse it with dilute acid several times. Dry. Use Plasterbond a coat or two. Shove a rag in as far as you can and fill it with Sacrete.
 
OP
7

7th Kahuna

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1,704
Location
Los Angeles, CA
What I'm recommending is a product...the repair is jack-leg for sure, but it might save you some work. Eventually all of that should be taken out as even abandoned and cut off somewhere else, its a pathway for insects, rodents, termites, carpenter ants, etc, to get inside the wall of your building without you knowing.

'Jack-leg', haven't heard that one before. Around here it's 'Mickymouse', and yes it is mickymouse but no sense tearing out half a kitchen, a sleeper floor and a slab to make a temporary repair. I am pretty good about removing abandoned materials but under the slab, these will have to stay. You're right though. I'll have to remember to seal the other end as well when the time comes to fully abandon it.

That's like getting medical advice from a shoe salesman.:p
Dry it out. Put a rag on a snake and rinse it with dilute acid several times. Dry. Use Plasterbond a coat or two. Shove a rag in as far as you can and fill it with Sacrete.

:lol: Isn't that true. I hate to ask for advise in that store, but it was worth what I paid for it. I'm not familiar with Plasterbond. I'll have to check it out.

The acid is also a good idea. There is 80 years of buildup in that pipe. Bet that will smell good. :D
 
Last edited:

mires

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
600
Location
Columbia, MO
Any way we can get a pic? It would be much easier to suggest solutions that way. I'm a plumber and people describe things to me over the phone all the time but then when I show up it is always a different situation than I had in my head based off of their description.
 
OP
7

7th Kahuna

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1,704
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Any way we can get a pic? It would be much easier to suggest solutions that way. I'm a plumber and people describe things to me over the phone all the time but then when I show up it is always a different situation than I had in my head based off of their description.

I understand what you are saying. I will be happy to post a pick but I have to get back there first. Thanks
 
OP
7

7th Kahuna

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
1,704
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Pictures as requested:

wall.jpg

Sorry it didn't come out real clear. The white and orange material in the pipe is just gypsum I pressed in to slow down the critters living within. Didn't work apparently.

description.jpg

I was able to break away some of the concrete. It had spilled around the form. Didn't gain much however. The green line identifies the top of the slab on the other side of the form board. Fortunately (or unfortunately) the form board rotted away between the old and new slabs allowing the water an escape route out of the building. Still the stud bay was packed with 4 inches of organic material and soil.

vert.jpg

The new (temporary) bypass line.

broken.jpg

The broken off hub. What a mess.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom