Pleae help me avoid making a mistake on my new 40x40 conrete slab.

[Tonykarter]

Hello everyone,
I've read this BB last night and most of the day. God help me, I have more questions now than before I started reading...all I was looking for was a good epoxy flooring product. Now, I'm not sure of anything. Your studied advice is truly appreciated.
Okay, so far all that has been done is the slab was poured a week and a half ago, next day they cut it to control cracks (some anyway), and they applied a curing agent. Slab was not covered with poly all this time, has turned very white. I intend to apply an epoxy flooring when the metal building is completed in about three weeks. Sixteen foot tall, and insulated.

Question 1. Should I apply a sealer, and if so, now, immediately, or have I screwed up already by not applying one before now. If I have screwed up, what are the consequences, and what will the fallout be? Which sealer would you suggest for the following: Southeast Texas area, very humid all the time, 100 degree heat, 32 degree sometimes in the winter. Yes, a vapor barrier was put down.

Gee, I guess that was more than one question, wasn't it?

Question 2. If I put a sealer down, how do I prep for the epoxy flooring? Do I have to do a strip before the epoxy, or will they be compatible?

Question 3. Since this is a very recent slab, just how much prepping will be required to make sure the epoxy stays down. How would you prep this situation. I'm putting a 20,000 lb motorhome on top of it. I do not plan on using color chips, just a light grey color.

As you can see by my questions, I'm probably in over my head. Heck, I'm smart enough to know that I don't even know what questions to ask! I've read bits and pieces of answers in numerous threads in the last 24 hours, but can't get my head wrapped around a comprehensive attack plan. Your assistance is greatly appreciated...Thank You in advance!

 

[5Cent]

If you're planning on putting epoxy down, here's what I recommend.

1. No sealer, you'll have to remove it when applying epoxy, so why bother.
2. Get building up and try to reduce the amount of air blowing around on slab (i.e no major drafts that can blow in dirt). So this means windows in, doors up, etc..
3. Decide what epoxy type you want, color, finish, etc. Then decide what company fits your needs and budget.
4. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how long a new slab needs to cure before applying and do water test.
5. Install epoxy with the help of wife, kids, brother, friend, etc.
6. Close up shop, sit down open a cold one and admire your work

 

[Tonykarter]

I like that plan! Can I run it backwards and start with #6?

 

[AlphaGarage]

Most coatings, including our Wolverine Coatings BondTite Primer and LiquaTile top coat, require 28 days of cure on a fresh pour.

Curing agent is fine - sealer a no-go!

Prep will require profiling the concrete. Most common method is a chem etch using muriatic acid. Note that muriatic acid is very corrosive, so read up on it before using it in a metal structure! There are other chem products that are far less corrosive, like our OrganiPrep 921, but they do cost more.

 

[SC-Eric]

Do you mean that they installed a curing sealer? If so, it's got to be removed before coating properly with a polymer flooring system.

 

[menz300]

I am guessing curing agent to help it set up and not a curing sealer. these steps all look great may I add my 2 cents to 5 cents and don't forget some anti slip agent thrown in to keep you from falling and showing how gravity works when its wet. Allow 28 days cure time as Alpha says him and Wolverine are very good with product knowledge.....

 

[Timm129]

Dont put down a sealer.. I did that and to prep for the epoxy I had to grind it off and that was NOT fun......

 

[Tonykarter]

Hey guys,
I really appreciate your input! I'll confirm with the contractor that they only put a curing agent down. I was here when he was measuring the slab to cut it, but had to meet a client and was not here when his man was to apply it.

Yes, I am planning on using a slip additive.

Had some time yesterday and called a PPG supplier. He suggested two coats of his stuff, I forget the name, and said I'd get 3.6 mils...sounds kinda thin dont you think? Also, he said to just go to Lowe's and get a bag of play sand and broadcast it between coats 1 and 2. Okay, but how do I get an even distribution so that the finished floor looks even, and not some here, a little there, a bunch over there? AND, any input on their product and it's performance?

Are you getting the idea this stuff is all new to me? Spent my youth hunting and fishing...guess I shoulda' stayed home more, huh?

I'm usually fairly self-sufficient, but this project makes me feel like a woman standing on the side of the road next to her car with the hood up and steam coming out...you know the type!

 

[menz300]

Well first thing I would do is run from PPG guy if he is suggesting play ground sand. A quick thing to do is drip some water on the floor if it soaks in the floor no sealer it it puddles and doesn't soak in more than likely has a sealer that is a quick check that might help. 3.6 mils will pull off in no time and you want a thicker product than that.

 

[5Cent]

Hey guys,
I really appreciate your input! I'll confirm with the contractor that they only put a curing agent down. I was here when he was measuring the slab to cut it, but had to meet a client and was not here when his man was to apply it.

Yes, I am planning on using a slip additive.

Had some time yesterday and called a PPG supplier. He suggested two coats of his stuff, I forget the name, and said I'd get 3.6 mils...sounds kinda thin dont you think? Also, he said to just go to Lowe's and get a bag of play sand and broadcast it between coats 1 and 2. Okay, but how do I get an even distribution so that the finished floor looks even, and not some here, a little there, a bunch over there? AND, any input on their product and it's performance?

Are you getting the idea this stuff is all new to me? Spent my youth hunting and fishing...guess I shoulda' stayed home more, huh?

I'm usually fairly self-sufficient, but this project makes me feel like a woman standing on the side of the road next to her car with the hood up and steam coming out...you know the type!

No worries bud, we'll take care of ya I too grew up in the woods and on the water, and felt the same way with this project. When you're done, you'll look back and laugh at how easy it was and how great it looks.

Worst thing to worry about in your process (which I didn't have to) is making sure the slab is dry enough to begin. You're anxious and ready to get it in, but don't skinny here. When you think it's dry, let it go another week if the weather is going to play nice.

I've only done one floor and it was done 9 months ago, but I love it! I used the epoxy-coat system and I couldn't be more happy. If I to do it again, I would not use the anti-slip (alumn oxzide) if it were to be in a designated shop area only, but since the wife parks in the garage I had to take her into consideration too lol. I think the floor would look better w/o the anti-slip, and I know for sure that the creeper and hands would like it better without, but it's only a minor thing to me.

Really do your homework on what brand/supplier you go with as there are millions out there. I can only advise you to not go to the big box stores and get any of their systems if you plan on using the floor like it's supposed to. If you have any questions, feel free to PM anytime.

Here's a link to my install. Good luck!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23761

 

[AlphaGarage]

Just a quick note... Although you do need a bone dry floor for most coatings and epoxies, some are formulated to be more tolerant of substrate moisture. Wolverine Coatings' BondTite 1101 is like that. There can't be any standing water, and I like to wait until some of the area has dried to the point of being dry looking, but if some areas are still a bit darker due to moisture it's not an issue.

Sand is cheap, but it will shred both skin and mops, towels, etc. and it's also not very strong, it will crush. Aluminum Oxide is good because it's very durable, but it also will shred both skin and mops, towels, etc.

Look into polymer grit, it's also durable and has rounded edges, so it's mop friendly. I even use those blue shop towels on it. We offer Wolverine Coatings SuperGrip 850, about $12 for 200 ft2. The grains are smaller than table salt and an opaque white. Not too noticeable on lighter floors and pretty much invisible if you use flakes.

 

[nate379]

I wouldn't put the anti-slip. Makes it really hard to clean the floor.

 

[AlphaGarage]

We have SuperGrip in food service and prep areas that are cleaned around the clock, it's not a problem at all. Aluminum Oxide is a different animal.

 

[BoutTime64]

Try this thread i started, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33702
This quikcrete product also has an optional grit packet you add to the epoxy.

Good luck.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I wouldn't put the anti-slip. Makes it really hard to clean the floor.

Mine is easy to clean. I put about a quart of sand down on 440 sq ft.

Having once had a sealed floor with no additive, and repeatedly splitting my sack sliding on snow/water, there's no way in hell I would have another floor without it.