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DIY or take it to a Machine Shop?

kazlx

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I will order those right now. There is a set with 13 collets. That should cover all my needs for now.

Can you elaborate why those are better?

Typically less runout. But the biggest thing when using a smaller milling machine is that they are shorter, so a little more rigid, but the big one is saving you Z travel real estate.

Plus, IMO it's easier to just load an end mill with the correct collet than have a ton of holders all over. It takes longer to put an end mill into one of those holders. Plus not all end mills have flats on them.
 
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gungatim

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:lol_hitti

Because it turned into a "let's help this guy buy a milling machine!" thread :beer:

and what's wrong with that?

I was going to suggest he rought it out on the drill press and finish it by hand with a good set of files...but hey, buy more tools!!!:beer:
 
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wachuko

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Typically less runout. But the biggest thing when using a smaller milling machine is that they are shorter, so a little more rigid, but the big one is saving you Z travel real estate.

Plus, IMO it's easier to just load an end mill with the correct collet than have a ton of holders all over. It takes longer to put an end mill into one of those holders. Plus not all end mills have flats on them.

Understood. I should return the holder set that arrives tomorrow then... no sense on keeping those.

with the collets I also got some 1-2-3 blocks, clamping kit, parallel set...
 

404

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I guess that I will share some personal info...I regret not going into a Mechanical Engineering degree... instead, I went with Computer Engineering... simply because my grade average allowed me to go into the engineering degree with the highest score... I saw it as a challenge at the time...

My father grew up in Ohio and worked for many years in a machine shop during his youth... he was always inventing and building something. He went into the Marines, came back to Ohio, moved again and setup his own company (concrete block manufacturing company). This was way before I was born, but he designed and build all the molds and some of the machinery he used to make the ornamental concrete blocks. By the time I came to the world and understood things, most of what he had build was gone (he was never a man to accumulate wealth as he said we were in this earth on borrow time and he was just here for just a brief moment) and any work he needed, he would have a friend help him with it. So we did not have any of the cool tools to play with. But he never stopped inventing or trying to modify things.

I have always wanted to learn, just never took the time to do so. Now that he is gone, and I am teaching my son a few things, I want my son to learn about the process of creating something from a block of metal... so deep down, this is more than modifying the caliper for my bike.... turning into finally doing something that I have wanted to do for a long time. Seems this was just the trigger to start it all...

So yeah... looks like I am getting old and sentimental...

That is cool. I am old too but I think it is maturity not sentimentality.. Then we die ha ha.

This pic is probably the most important advice in the user manual on that mill. Also, think about your direction of cut to always conventional mill and never climb mill. Those definitions are easy to look up.

Maintain a minimum feed rate so as always to be cutting. Do not let the cutter rub the work without it cutting, the work can "work harden" in an instant and your cutter will be sad, as will your wallet.
 

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kkroger

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Another aspect to look at is changing out the drive belts for Fenner Drive Belts (link Belts)
these reduce vibration transferred through the drive system to the Quill/Spindle.
they "Help" but won't remove ALL of the vibration as the entire machine will vibrate some.

Reducing the vibration will improve the final finish on tooling.
277488-2.jpg


Perhaps in the future you can change to a 3ph motor and a VFD, that is likely my next step. you just place the drive belts on the "HIGH" speed step then you can reduce RPM with the VFD. Easy Enough.
 
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wachuko

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Another aspect to look at is changing out the drive belts for Fenner Drive Belts (link Belts)
these reduce vibration transferred through the drive system to the Quill/Spindle.
they "Help" but won't remove ALL of the vibration as the entire machine will vibrate some.

Reducing the vibration will improve the final finish on tooling.

Perhaps in the future you can change to a 3ph motor and a VFD, that is likely my next step. you just place the drive belts on the "HIGH" speed step then you can reduce RPM with the VFD. Easy Enough.

Taking lots of notes :thumbup:

Also realized that the vice I got will go great with the drill press, but not recommended for the mill machine... so I need to search for a proper vise to use with the mill machine.
 

kkroger

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Taking lots of notes :thumbup:

Also realized that the vice I got will go great with the drill press, but not recommended for the mill machine... so I need to search for a proper vise to use with the mill machine.

Look at ENCO for a Vise, they have sales and I can give you a 20% code for them and Free Shipping, be SURE you view the catalog page for the vises before you buy as I had ordered a 6" Swivel and got a non swivel, that was explained on the catalog page not in the website verbage...

I ended up with a 5" Swivel Base, that said swivels will eat up Z travel...
This machine has a LOT of Z Travel but it is in two different places. One good and one marginal, this is why I tried to steer you toward a Knee Type or a Dovetail/Square Column... If you have NOT ordered already from Grizzly take a look at some of their heavy duty dovetail or square columns...
 

kkroger

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That's what I was saying the G0704 is the new hotness amongst home CNC guys...
it is not very big either. they do have some that are but they are a bit higher than the round column...
 

404

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One may not need a vise at all for the brake caliper shown. The tee nut and clamp set may be all that is needed.
 

404

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I have not place the order... I thought I was set to do so... ??? Is the G0704 a better alternative to the G0705 ??? Really confused now.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704

g0704-fe5f587761b80952c5b7580f75b5701f_zpszt3u8zpi.jpg


That is getting kind of big. How about ditching the living room couch, some chairs, the TV. Put the extra garage stuff in the living room and get a bigger mill for the garage.

Bonus points: In laws will have no place to sit if they visit. If you have no inlaws, any woman that is interested in you after seeing the house really loves you for you, not your money.
 
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wachuko

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That is getting kind of big. How about ditching the living room couch, some chairs, the TV. Put the extra garage stuff in the living room and get a bigger mill for the garage.

Bonus points: In laws will have no place to sit if they visit. If you have no inlaws, any woman that is interested in you after seeing the house really loves you for you, not your money.

Footprint looks actually smaller than the G0705...

In-laws have been living with us for 10 years now! :p

So what is the recommendation guys?? G0704 or G0705 :confused::confused:
 

ilovevocs

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My kid move. Enjoy your mill. Be prepared for an upfront cost in measuring and layout tools. Machining is an addiction.... You start doing machine work and you don't want to buy parts anymore.
 
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Steve from Socal

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A few points to ponder; as mentioned way back a spot facer would do exactly what you want IN YOUR DRILLPRESS. On ebay I bet you could find something that will work for under 50 bucks. A spot face / counterbore tool is designed to work in a drillpress.

As to endmill holders Vs collets, an endmill holder is magnitudes more rigid than a collet. I have Cat 50 TG150 collets, and they are downright flimsy compared to an endmill holder.

Before you jump head first, do a bit of research.

Steve
 
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wachuko

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A few points to ponder; as mentioned way back a spot facer would do exactly what you want IN YOUR DRILLPRESS. On ebay I bet you could find something that will work for under 50 bucks. A spot face / counterbore tool is designed to work in a drillpress.

As to endmill holders Vs collets, an endmill holder is magnitudes more rigid than a collet. I have Cat 50 TG150 collets, and they are downright flimsy compared to an endmill holder.

Before you jump head first, do a bit of research.

Steve

I ordered this as well... 13/16" with a 3/16" shaft. So it will mount to the drill press...

61NY1Y08nEL._SL1321__zpsfukol2fd.jpg


but I still want the mill... now I need to read some more to decide on one of those two above... G0704 vs G0705
 

404

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I ordered this as well... 13/16" with a 3/16" shaft. So it will mount to the drill press...

61NY1Y08nEL._SL1321__zpsfukol2fd.jpg


but I still want the mill... now I need to read some more to decide on one of those two above... G0704 vs G0705

No no no no no no. If this had a pilot out the front that was a tight fit for the id of your existing thread than maybe. But as shown, that long shaft is a tuning fork, the cutter will engage the surface in an uneven manner, and some sort of hellish symphony will sound out before there is a snap noise.

The thing about milling (or lathe) work is to never have a set up that can vibrate or ring in a resonant frequency (like a bell or guitar string does) Any ringing will result in a horrific finish and probably a broken tool.

A dremel and a file would serve you better than this "thing" in the picture.

The item shown may be designed for wood cutting, or foam. Not for any metals with a 3/16 shaft.
 
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wachuko

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Too many rookie mistakes... at least I was able to cancel the order before it shipped. Thank you Craig!
 

jar944

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Footprint looks actually smaller than the G0705...

In-laws have been living with us for 10 years now! :p

So what is the recommendation guys?? G0704 or G0705 :confused::confused:

The g0761 is the closest to a rf45 grizzly carries.

Take a breath, go here http://www.hobby-machinist.com. go through the forums and Read, read, read, for a week or more, then ask them for clarification if you still have concerns or questions on what mill to get. Its a very well run site that does not discourage new be questions.

You will get a lot of advise from people that have round column mills to pass on them, there is a reason they will suggest the square/dovetail mills over the round. I heard the same thing 10 years ago when I got mine and ignored the advise.

Unless you don't end up liking machining you WILL run smack into the limitations of the round column mill as you progress in your abilities. Sure you can work around them, but its easier to start with a better machine than play catch up.
 
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Alchymist

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but I still want the mill... now I need to read some more to decide on one of those two above... G0704 vs G0705

If you have the room, the G0705 is a no brainer. $200 more on a $1200 purchase gets you 2HP instead of 1, 12 speeds instead of 2, bigger dimensions in all directions - swing, table travel & size, etc. The G0705 also weighs almost twice what the 04 weighs, and should be the more stable machine. JMHO, YMMV. :evil:
 

dcmus

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It will make parts on both axis but. ...because of the round column it won't take a large cut on the X axis without spinning on the column. Just my experience :)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

srmofo

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Nobody has mentioned it yet, but you are going to need a test indicator to dial this bracket in before cutting. Better get that wallet out again.

Any misalignment of that bracket mounting point is going to be amplified through the brake system and cause irregular wear.
 
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wachuko

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Nobody has mentioned it yet, but you are going to need a test indicator to dial this bracket in before cutting. Better get that wallet out again.

Any misalignment of that bracket mounting point is going to be amplified through the brake system and cause irregular wear.

I know that I have dial indicators, need to check if I have a test indicator (friend used to have a couple of Midas and gave me a few tools when he closed shop).
 
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wachuko

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The g0761 is the closest to a rf45 grizzly carries.

Take a breath, go here http://www.hobby-machinist.com. go through the forums and Read, read, read, for a week or more, then ask them for clarification if you still have concerns or questions on what mill to get. Its a very well run site that does not discourage new be questions.

You will get a lot of advise from people that have round column mills to pass on them, there is a reason they will suggest the square/dovetail mills over the round. I heard the same thing 10 years ago when I got mine and ignored the advise.

Unless you don't end up liking machining you WILL run smack into the limitations of the round column mill as you progress in your abilities. Sure you can work around them, but its easier to start with a better machine than play catch up.


Not sure if to thank you or what... :lol_hitti I have been stuck to the computer reading on that site... at this rate it will be 2017 by the time I decide on what the heck to buy...

Lots of comparisons between the G0704 and the PM 25MV ... but there is a wait for that PM 25MV where I could order the G0704 and have it here faster... :willy_nil

That is it... going to bed...
 

gungatim

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what nobody uses a rough cut file for steel anymore IE ******* file and a bit of oil???

I do. just hand filed a missing hood bracket for an old riding mower...I even re-surfaced a head on a Taurus v6 using files and sandpaper...old school works in a pinch!

I still want a milling machine though...
 

404

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Too many rookie mistakes... at least I was able to cancel the order before it shipped. Thank you Craig!

You are very welcome, but Craig is the person I copied the google quote from. :beer:
 

kkroger

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Well... I am the proud owner of a credit card charge for a G0704 :)

Just know the limitations of your machine and you should be good to go.

I have done some complex milling with my round column machine even though it was not the best idea...

A Good Vise, and good tooling will do wonders.

Request catalogs from SHARS, KBC Tools, Penn Tool, and a few others that you may find. Enco is another good one to know, www.use-enco.com They don't have a catalog anymore.

3/4" for end mills, 2 1/2" for A face mill. probably 2 1/2 for boring too.
Drilling is 5/8" There are ways to improve the rigidity of the machine as well.
Adding Mass improves quality of machining...
 
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wachuko

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Just know the limitations of your machine and you should be good to go.

I have done some complex milling with my round column machine even though it was not the best idea...

A Good Vise, and good tooling will do wonders.

Request catalogs from SHARS, KBC Tools, Penn Tool, and a few others that you may find. Enco is another good one to know, www.use-enco.com They don't have a catalog anymore.

3/4" for end mills, 2 1/2" for A face mill. probably 2 1/2 for boring too.
Drilling is 5/8" There are ways to improve the rigidity of the machine as well.
Adding Mass improves quality of machining...

Thank you. I will get those catalogs.

I know that a lot of you are going "dude, that mill for that caliper modification? really... you could have used a nail file and be riding thatbike by now..." But it was the perfect excuse to finally start doing something that I have wanted for so many years...

Another time I will share the time I went out for some milk and eggs and came back with a car... true story. :3gears:
 

kazlx

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Nice man. It's a good start. Just a warning...it gets addicting.

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