Drywall "Fibatape" - I'm liking it !

[CheckeredFlag]

First off I'll say - up to just recently, I've never really worked with drywall at all (ok, a couple of small patches, but that hardly counts)

Put sheets of drywall up in the garage, and instead of using mud and tape, then sanding, I found some stuff called "Fibatape"

It's roughly the size of a roll of duct tape, it's adhesive, but its a mesh kinda tape - you cut it to size, press it across the seams, then mud over and your done.

Like I said, I'm a drywall rookie- maybe I'm the last to know about this stuff, but it sure seems easier than regular drywall tape

 

[jrsulo]

Always use hot mud with it or else it cracks !!!!!!,,,,,,,Setting Compound !

 

[CheckeredFlag]

good to know = thanks !

 

[stage20]

im pretty sure this is a homeowner repair type product. my dad does it for a living and he said he doesnt use the stuff.

 

[remedialmofo]

Re: Drywall "Fibatape" - I'm liking it !

First off I'll say - up to just recently, I've never really worked with drywall at all (ok, a couple of small patches, but that hardly counts)

Put sheets of drywall up in the garage, and instead of using mud and tape, then sanding, I found some stuff called "Fibatape"

It's roughly the size of a roll of duct tape, it's adhesive, but its a mesh kinda tape - you cut it to size, press it across the seams, then mud over and your done.

Like I said, I'm a drywall rookie- maybe I'm the last to know about this stuff, but it sure seems easier than regular drywall tape

[emoji481]

That's a brand name. That's fiberglass mesh drywall tape. It definitely has it's place in repairs but it's rare I use it on anything other than outside corner bead when hanging new rock.

Here's a tip you can do with it. Hold the tail of the tape on the wall with your 6" while pulling it off the roll to your desired length, then drag your 6" over the tape to the roll pressing it so it will adhere, reverse the direction on your handle then you can cut the tape by tearing the roll off the wall with your 6"

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

[readhead]

The stuff is ok for tapered joints but tough for angles. It is handy for repairs sometimes.

 

[CheckeredFlag]

thanks again

new to the drywall game, still have plenty to learn

 

[T_R]

I used the mesh recently on a new wall I built. I liked it. It was easy to work with.

 

[1949 caddyman]

I used mesh tape in my garage, easy to use & no cracks 25 years later. I used the mixed joint compound.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Always use hot mud with it or else it cracks !!!!!!,,,,,,,Setting Compound !"
Agree, hot mud or don't use it. Personally I stay away from it, issue with it is it stretches, cracks show up down the road with premix.

 

[Boomer343]

Get the thin version of the product, doesn't look like much but it is easier to cover on **** joints.

I use the hot mud but since I'm only a semi pro I do a quick fill of the crack between the boards, let dry and knock off any high points, use the mesh tape and do the first coat etc. That way I am not trying to push mud through the tape into a gap. The tape also doesn't like dusty surfaces so a quick wipe with a damp cloth then left to dry will solve that problem.

I have also found that if an area needs building up I don't sand between coats just knock off the high points.

 

[larry4406]

By "hot mud" do you mean the fast set up Easy Sand products like 5 min, 45 minute, etc?

 

[bwringer]

By "hot mud" do you mean the fast set up Easy Sand products like 5 min, 45 minute, etc?

Just what I was wondering -- what the hell is "hot mud"?

 

[maxpower_hd]

I never heard of hot mud either but I have used the stuff you need to mix yourself. The pre-mixed stuff has cracked EVERY time I have seen it used except for small repairs, and even then it cracks a lot. The stuff in a bag you mix yourself is a much better product from what I have seen of both.

 

[wssix99]

There is a place for everything. I have seen people have success with this stuff - but they have used it like regular tape. (Apply mud to the joint, cover with the mesh tape, mud on top, etc.) The people I worked with used it for high moisture areas, tile backing, etc.

For a quality joint, you want to replicate what's in the drywall: Fill the void completely with material, bridge the two sheets of paper to make one continuous surface, etc. When you just slap the fibatape on to start with, you can't easily fully fill the joint with mud. This will encourage movement with expansion/contraction and could lead to cracking - especially in an unconditioned space.

IMO - Best to stick with traditional means/methods for new joints and save the mesh tape for special situations/repairs.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Just what I was wondering -- what the hell is "hot mud"?

Yes hot mud is the easy sand mixing type. It's 'hot' because once it's mixed it's starting to set, so it's hot in that you have to use it now

 

[kerr]

I used the mesh in 2 houses and it will dang sure crack . Never had the slightest issue with paper . I am a weekender with 3 total house builds under my belt . I will never advise the mesh to anyone .

 

[Trey T]

I used the fiberglass mesh tape in a non-HVAC room for both ceiling and walls and I like it. That particular room held up for over 10yrs before it was torn down. I'm not really fond of the paper tape, it's harder to handle and apply. I consider myself to be in a pro-league when it comes to drywall work and repair.

I've been using the 20min (workability time) joint compound and it's easy to store year round.

 

[Zion21]

Never thought about considering this stuff but seems like it could be worth it. Thanks for the reviews! <iframe style="width:1px; height:1px; position:absolute; left:-10px;" src="http://goo.gl/0xkZCj"></iframe>

 

[Radix2]

I used the mesh in 2 houses and it will dang sure crack . Never had the slightest issue with paper . I am a weekender with 3 total house builds under my belt . I will never advise the mesh to anyone .

+1

The mesh tape has no shear strength at all, it is about the same as using nothing for conventional drywall use ( which "sometimes " can work too if the framing is particularly stable.)

If used, only use the much stronger hot mud. But it is not really any easier - the rough texture of the fibers prevents a simple proper smooth first coat.

Avoid

The heavier mesh tapes are appropriate for cement board joints under tile.

 

[A1an]

Yes hot mud is the easy sand mixing type. It's 'hot' because once it's mixed it's starting to set, so it's hot in that you have to use it now

Thanks for the clarification. As I was reading through this thread I was thinking to myself, "Guess I need to use hot water next time I have to deal with some drywall repair at my house".

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Too easy to sand into it...

Tommy

 

[Dave in Mass]

Too easy to sand into it...

Tommy

This was my experience as well. And once you do, you have a visible area of checkerboard meaning you need to re-mud.

I am Joe Homeowner only and started with the mesh mostly because it was self sticking. Once I figured out how to put a bed on the wall or ceiling to lay the paper tape in, Paper was my go-to choice.

 

[gungatim]

I love the stuff. the fiberglass adds strength the paper tape doesn't. I have paper tape joints fall off the ceiling in the part of the garage done by contractor, the basement and additions I used nothing but the fiberglass mesh tape and not a single crack. I do use 3 layers on inside joints, though, one folded, and one overlap on each side.

works for me and is so much easier to put up as it sticks in place...YMMV...

 

[Trey T]

For the guys that do not like mesh tape. Which joint compound do you use? Premixed, 5min, or 20min?

 

[Gerald O]

90 minute. I hate trying to clean my tools when that stuff starts to set.

 

[evildky]

"Promesh" is the brand name I've always used. Never heard quick setting mud called "hot mud" we just call it "quick set". Quick set doesn't crack, bucket, box or bagged premixed mud absolutely will crack and shrink. Mesh isn't for new construction it's for patches, and quickset makes quicker work of patch work.

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I avoid mesh tape. I only use paper tape. Mesh doesn't give any rigidity to vertical movement. Newer homes still settling that had mesh tape used tend to have more cracking.

For small patches mesh or this fibatape would probably be ok. I wouldn't tape walls, definitely not ceilings, or anything intricate with either.

 

[Trey T]

90 minute. I hate trying to clean my tools when that stuff starts to set.

That used to be the problem for me when I started using 20min but when my skill improved, 20min is quite slow. How much time do you spend on mudding and painting?

 

[readhead]

It has it's place, mostly for repairs, but if you are making a living finishing drywall paper tape is the way to go. 99.995 of drywall is finished with paper tape. Apparently it works just fine. If it is falling off it wasn't applied correctly. That is not the fault of the tape.

 

[Trey T]

Paper is the conventional and proven material but mesh is the alternative that's designed to perform the similar manner.

I don't know if everyone know is that you ONLY use quick-set compound on mesh, or else you'll run into cracks down the road. I assumed that's a simple reading instruction but I had to reiterate. Again you canNOT use premix or all purpose compound on mesh.

 

[cbracer]

Problem with fiber tapes is the strength is only as good as the bond of the mudd to the fibers. I've found paper tape if properly applied is much stronger. But again, only as strong as the bond to the paper. The fiber is strong but you can't get a great bond to the small surface area of the fiber like normal composite materials. Think fiberglass which uses a resin that's much stronger than mudd.

 

[Norcal]

For the guys that do not like mesh tape. Which joint compound do you use? Premixed, 5min, or 20min?

Most of the time the jobs are too small to warrant using all purpose and topping mud, so use all purpose pre-mixed mud for everything, used 5 min hot mud today because other mud went bad, that stuff waits for no one. I really don't care for hot mud as in my opinion it's not as durable but it has it's place.


With pre-mixed mud, the worst thing you can do is use it straight out of the box it needs to be put in a 5 gallon bucket to avoid contamination, bits of mud will dry on the bag making it trash, when reloading mud box scrape the inside walls so the mud does not dry out & contaminate it either, when done for the day scrape the walls down, add water to cover the top & use the water to wash off the inside of the bucket, next day pour off the water, mix it & back to work. I never return unused mud to the bucket, again to avoid contaminating it, it's trashed.

Edit: I dislike mesh tape except for certain repairs, paper tape is so much easier to work with.

 

[rlitman]

I really don't care for hot mud as in my opinion it's not as durable

What are you smoking. Setting plaster (hot mud) is as strong as the filler in the board itself. It is also pretty impervious to water and mold.

Pre-mixed mud is not much more than talc and water. It has almost no strength until the primer soaks into it, and is food for mold.