Run Power to Shed

[SixT40]

Hello,

I've read many of the posts on this topic, I'd just like some details for my specific situation.
An electrician will be making the connections. I'm doing the prep work and getting the materials.
Location: IL

The house has 100A service panel in basement. Distance from main panel location to nearest wall of shed =51ft. Wiring will exit the house in the joist bay next to the main panel. Total wire length should be <65ft total.
I do not plan to run a welder, electric heat or A/C in the shed. I need sufficient power for table saw/miter saw with shop vac, interior lighting, LED cans in the soffit, low voltage landscape lights, stereo and maybe a small fridge.
What I think I need is a dedicated circuit in the main panel, #10 THWN(?) with ground wire in 3/4" schedule 80 PVC, buried 18" deep, to a sub-panel in the shed.
Any input would be appreciated.
Is #10 wire sufficient?
What size breaker is recommended for the main panel?
Grounding rod needed at shed?

Photos:
1) main panel with (6) available slots.
2) Distance from meter/main panel to shed. I intend to trench along perimeter of patio then angle-off to the shed, as shown.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

#10 wont get you more than 35a. I would go with at least a 50a feed.

And due to the cost of wire, MHF #2 al @ around $1.5/ft is likely the cheapest route.

#2 al can be protected with a 90a breaker.

u will need 2 rods at the shed as well as a panel with an isolated neutral bar. This may require the purchase of a separate ground bar kit.

also if u will have more than 6 breaker handles, then the subpanel will need a main disconnect.

 

[KiltLifter]

OP was NOT planning on big loads. (I missed the not at first glance)

Wylie knows a lot more than I do (and will correct me if I'm wrong!) but here is what I believe: Not sure what your saw draws (or saw/vac at same time!), but if it's one item at a time (plus lights) you could run a single circuit that wouldn't require a sub or grounding rods.

The risk is if you decide to upgrade you are starting over. Upside is super easy right now.

 

[pattenp]

You should put a sub panel in the shed if you do 30A or more as a feeder. Lights can go on 15A circuit, outlets on a 20A circuit. The sub panel makes managing the circuits easier. If you do a 20A circuit not using a sub panel in the shed I think you'll have issues running the table saw, shopvac, and frig and lights if they are on at the same time. Plus every circuit has to be wired as 20A. At a minimum I'd do #8 Cu or #6 Al for up to 50A as the main feeder.

 

[Bib Overalls]

Agree with the 50 amp call. With electricity it is better to have more than you need than not enough. And, some day, you will be at the big box home store and see a nice, compact air conditioner and say "perfect for the shed." Then, down the isle you will spot a compact air compressor and say to your wife "Don't forget I have a birthday next week." It happens.

 

[theoldwizard1]

And due to the cost of wire, MHF #2 al @ around $1.5/ft is likely the cheapest route.

If you can get 2-2-2-4 or even 2-2-4-6 MHF @ $1.50/ft it IS probably the cheapest way to go.


EDIT : Cut to length and shipped to your house 2-2-4-6 MHF is $1.79 from Home Depot. Still a god price.

 

[pentavolvo]

Where in illinois are you at

 

[SixT40]

Where in illinois are you at

SW Chicago suburbs; Will County.

 

[SixT40]

Thanks for your thoughts, everyone.
3/4" PVC was stubbed-in before the slab was poured. (Correction: it's S40 gray PVC, not schedule 80, as I said earlier). My understanding is that MHF requires larger conduit. Not that I couldn't drill a hole in the siding to bring wires in, it's just not what I had planned on. Should've done better research on conduit size before the concrete work.
I DO want the underground wires to be in conduit, whether it is required or not. A sub-panel in the shed makes sense.

As KiltLifter clarified, I will NOT be running a welder, plasma, heater, or A/C on this feed. Any upgrades to larger equipment will be in the garage. The small workspace in the shed is just for light woodworking, small engine maintenance, etc.

Miter saw is 12A, shop vac is 11.2A.
Portable table saw is 15A and would be used outside while plugged-in to shed, so no need to run the shop vac or even lights while sawing.
If I used my 1-1/2 HP portable compressor in the shed, it would only be turned on when in use.

Note: Cost of the wire is not a factor. I cut down a tree for an old electrician for free. He has stockpiles of new wire of all types/sizes and insists on giving me whatever I need for the shed. Love the barter system.