BottomLineReviews
Well-known member
Other than basic hand tools, what should I expect to need in order to change the timing belt on a 92 Mitsubishi Eclipse?
Timing belt tools?
- Thread starter BottomLineReviews
- Start date
bcradio
Well-known member
Not needed, but a 1/4" drive air ratchet can help get those bolts out from the tight areas. Also an impact is nice to remove the crank bolt.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Is it a 1.8?
OP
BottomLineReviews
Well-known member
I believe it is the 2.4l but I'm not positive. Someone is giving it to me because they don't wanna see it in a scrapyard.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Are you new to doing timing belts?
OP
BottomLineReviews
Well-known member
This will be my first timing belt change.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
This is not the best "first time out" jobs. What do you have for a guide? Are you mechanically apt? I'm not trying to be an ***. Just curious.
warweapon762
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2013
- Messages
- 323
There are youtube vids of the change you should study up on and will give you an idea of tools you will need. If its a DOHC, you may want to consider making a homemade cam index so you can properly align the belt on both cams. Helped out tons when i redid my kia rio.
Rioredsn8k
Well-known member
OP
BottomLineReviews
Well-known member
I like to think I'm very mechanically skilled, I mainly work on small engines and air tools. Also, I don't really have anything to lose here, because with the cars current condition it's not worth taking it somewhere and paying 500$
OP
BottomLineReviews
Well-known member
I'd rather have the experience, if I can't figure it out then I'll just use this as a parts car and get another eclipse.
bcradio
Well-known member
Don't let the others negative responses get to you. Go for it.
I would watch some videos online to get an idea of what you're up against.
The video I saw had a special tensioning tool. I did my Porsche many times. Timing belts needed to be tight enough so that you could just twist it 90 degrees with finger pressure only. Maybe you could try that.
Video also showed a special engine support tool for after you remove the upper LH engine mount. Surely you can come up with something for that.
I've done a good few timing belts. Tools I found helpful:
Long 1/2 ratchet for cranking engine
Long 3/8 drive ratchet for pulleys
0 degree hi perf wrenches
Hi quality stubby Allen bit sockets
Video also showed a special engine support tool for after you remove the upper LH engine mount. Surely you can come up with something for that.
I've done a good few timing belts. Tools I found helpful:
Long 1/2 ratchet for cranking engine
Long 3/8 drive ratchet for pulleys
0 degree hi perf wrenches
Hi quality stubby Allen bit sockets
Shootingblanks
Well-known member
Timing belts aren't that difficult to do. Attempt to get a PDF copy of dealer manual online or can try library. Be sure to properly time the cams and crank prior to removal of belt. I always replace water pump, idlers and tensioner. They're are two types of tensioners and one is better than the one they, however most cars come with the pin grenade type that are prone to leak. Last year I did my brothers timing belt on his Mitsibushi Galant. That motor had an access hole in front of block that you had to time correctly and put a screw driver in it to stop the balance shaft from turning. I had to get it exact cause if not you'll have vibration at higher rpm. I also have the special tool and pic below:
Last year did my Honda Ridgeline timing belt:
Hardest part was crank bolt, only cause it was 6 weeks after my partial neprectomy and I used the Honda special crank tool and large breaker bar w cheater.
Easier job was last weekend on a 2006 Suburu Forester. That timing belt was even easier than my Honda. Bolster motors are a bit more forgiving cause when timed it is at mid stroke and not top dead center so don't have to worry as much as a cam moving and valves meeting top of piston like other engines.
Old parts in this pic. Replaced all idlers because they had unusual marks on surface of idlers, replaced water pump and thermostat also. Performed combustion leak test on block and no head gasket leaks, which immon with these boxster engines.
Video of Suburu Forrester up and running. Filling coolant level and purging/burping block of all air. Be sure to do this so you don't overheat your engine with an air pocket.
Take your time and clean the block really well with brake cleaner and mark all the timing marks clearly. If cam locks are needed or wedge tool, be sure to use them. Inspect rubber seals to timing cover, which are mostly plastic covers now, for wear and cracks. Replace since you don't want debris in there. After timing belt reinstalled I always turn it at least 2 or more revelations to ensure that all timing marks realign. I also mark the belt to the orientation of the cam timing marks and crank and count teeth and mark reference point to new timin belt. This ensures your not off a tooth on reinstall. Some belts require taking slack out of them and proper orientation, normally left to right on install of belt, then check marks and pull grenade pin to tensioner assembly.
On some, I was unable to get an impact or budge crank bolt and resorted to the breaker bar on crank bolt, pull ignition coil wire to ensure engine wouldn't fire and give the starter a quick tap to free crank bolt. That's my last resort on stubborn bolts and don't recommend it if you've never done it before. Think it's snapon or MAC that makes a special crank bolt socket that makes taking crank bolts off easier with impact.
A decent 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench comes in handy. My 1/2 tech torque wrench does not do some lower torques so I defer to the 3/8.
Last year did my Honda Ridgeline timing belt:
Hardest part was crank bolt, only cause it was 6 weeks after my partial neprectomy and I used the Honda special crank tool and large breaker bar w cheater.
Easier job was last weekend on a 2006 Suburu Forester. That timing belt was even easier than my Honda. Bolster motors are a bit more forgiving cause when timed it is at mid stroke and not top dead center so don't have to worry as much as a cam moving and valves meeting top of piston like other engines.
Old parts in this pic. Replaced all idlers because they had unusual marks on surface of idlers, replaced water pump and thermostat also. Performed combustion leak test on block and no head gasket leaks, which immon with these boxster engines.
Video of Suburu Forrester up and running. Filling coolant level and purging/burping block of all air. Be sure to do this so you don't overheat your engine with an air pocket.
Take your time and clean the block really well with brake cleaner and mark all the timing marks clearly. If cam locks are needed or wedge tool, be sure to use them. Inspect rubber seals to timing cover, which are mostly plastic covers now, for wear and cracks. Replace since you don't want debris in there. After timing belt reinstalled I always turn it at least 2 or more revelations to ensure that all timing marks realign. I also mark the belt to the orientation of the cam timing marks and crank and count teeth and mark reference point to new timin belt. This ensures your not off a tooth on reinstall. Some belts require taking slack out of them and proper orientation, normally left to right on install of belt, then check marks and pull grenade pin to tensioner assembly.
On some, I was unable to get an impact or budge crank bolt and resorted to the breaker bar on crank bolt, pull ignition coil wire to ensure engine wouldn't fire and give the starter a quick tap to free crank bolt. That's my last resort on stubborn bolts and don't recommend it if you've never done it before. Think it's snapon or MAC that makes a special crank bolt socket that makes taking crank bolts off easier with impact.
A decent 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench comes in handy. My 1/2 tech torque wrench does not do some lower torques so I defer to the 3/8.
Last edited:
OP
BottomLineReviews
Well-known member
If the timing belt broke at idle, is it likely that it bent valves?
shockwave
Well-known member
Mitsubishi tbelt are a little tricky compared to Honda
small spring clamps work great holding belt on cam gears while installing belt and make sure all slack is on tensioner side
And always go 1 rotation by hand after belt is installed toile sure your marks are lined up I usually mark cams with sharpie for easier reference
And you will need special tool or micro needle nose pliers to rotate tensioner on these I believe
small spring clamps work great holding belt on cam gears while installing belt and make sure all slack is on tensioner side
And always go 1 rotation by hand after belt is installed toile sure your marks are lined up I usually mark cams with sharpie for easier reference
And you will need special tool or micro needle nose pliers to rotate tensioner on these I believe
bwringer
Well-known member
Yes, very likely if it's an interference engine.
edit:
Just looked it up and almost all Mitsu engines are intereference engines.
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/List_Of_Interference_Engines
Even at idle, the pistons and cranks have plenty of inertia to bend the valves. If the timing belt broke on this engine, it's junk.
Last edited:
Ramblin Man
Well-known member
I would suggest making yourself a "third hand". The instructions are going to say start at crankshaft gear, then idler?, cam, other cam, and so on routing your belt. I always have the belt come off of the crank gear somewhere along all of that, so I made myself a "third hand".
Please forgive the quick and crude make shift example here.Made from cut up radiator hose,socket represents crank gear, and rope represents timing belt.Also, I use those metal binding clips for paper to hold belt on the cam gears.
Hope this helps you.
Please forgive the quick and crude make shift example here.Made from cut up radiator hose,socket represents crank gear, and rope represents timing belt.Also, I use those metal binding clips for paper to hold belt on the cam gears.
Hope this helps you.
