Sounds like a dumb question but it seems like most contractors are using 3" ( air nails) is this atiquite for holding the studs to the top and bottom plates or should I go with a 3 1/4" nail? There is considerable cost difference for paslode. Thanks in advance!
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3" or 3 1/4" nails for framing?
- Thread starter mc1984ss
- Start date
What is "adequate" is whatever is called for in the plans. Yes smaller nails can do a fine job if you use enough of them.
If I was going to be doing any framing (which I might soon) then I would want to go with 3 1/2 .162 pneumatic nails. However, these are not super easy to find so I would probably end up going with 3 1/2 (or 3 1/4) .131 or .148 and just using more of them.
If I was going to be doing any framing (which I might soon) then I would want to go with 3 1/2 .162 pneumatic nails. However, these are not super easy to find so I would probably end up going with 3 1/2 (or 3 1/4) .131 or .148 and just using more of them.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Contractors use whatever is cheapest to get the job done. Also nails from air nailers typically are smaller diameter.
When using air nailers they do sometimes use ring shank or spiral nails which have better holding capabilities.
When using air nailers they do sometimes use ring shank or spiral nails which have better holding capabilities.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
Longer is usually better in most instances, and it helps if the nail is totally embedded into the wood. Nails rely on friction to keep them in place and it won't do any good having a nail protruding past the wood, unless you clinch them over across the grain for maximum holding strength.
Personally I would use the longer 3 1/4" nails for framing. I did buy some 3" nails on clearance once, I used them for some interior non load bearing stuff.
Depends on what you're building . . . . shed or doghouse, then use whatever you have or is cheapest. Either of those will be fine, as failure risk is not an issue.
For structural house framing, then don't take shortcuts. Those nails (even at 3 1/4 inch) are skimpy compared to hand-driven framing nails . . . old school style. A 16 penny nail is about twice the diameter of those air-driven nails (thus lot stronger). Bigger framing nails than 16 penny are often used for main rafters/framing.
OP . . . are you saying that you've OBSERVED house builders purposefully skimping on nails to save a nickel ??
For structural house framing, then don't take shortcuts. Those nails (even at 3 1/4 inch) are skimpy compared to hand-driven framing nails . . . old school style. A 16 penny nail is about twice the diameter of those air-driven nails (thus lot stronger). Bigger framing nails than 16 penny are often used for main rafters/framing.
OP . . . are you saying that you've OBSERVED house builders purposefully skimping on nails to save a nickel ??
MagKarl
Well-known member
I'm convinced almost all framing in my area is done with nails no larger diameter than 0.131". None of the lumber yards carry anything larger. Only one specialty shop has 0.148" diameter in my area. 3 1/4 will blow through the back of doubled lumber if that matters to you.
I'm convinced almost all framing in my area is done with nails no larger diameter than 0.131". None of the lumber yards carry anything larger. Only one specialty shop has 0.148" diameter in my area. 3 1/4 will blow through the back of doubled lumber if that matters to you.
You learn where not to place your hand real fast.
Falcon67
Well-known member
LOL, yes. Same here - did all my framing with the common 3 1/4 full head nails in the gun. Hot dipped used on the base plates because they were treated lumber.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I used 3 1/2" x .131 paper taped nails in my Paslode. Although a little expensive, there are quite a bit of nails in the box. I went through one complete box and a few sticks out of the second box in doing all of my framing. I think the box of 2500 nails was something close to $90. And when doubling 2x's, I had to make sure that I angled the nails in slightly so they wouldn't blow out the back side. I always angle my nails in doubled up boards anyways just to keep them from pulling apart.
sberry
Banned
This is about like air pipe and wire size. I just repaired a job where good ole big fat nails by hand were part of the problem.
Adding one more tight nail is worth all the fuggin around contemplating the length and size. A little care in placement doesn't hurt.
2ndly the nailing isn't all that big of a factor. It used to be more when the stud had to be hald qwhile another 10 boards were hand nailed to it. At the start 3 nails were good, by the end of the day 2 were fine.
Now it needs to be drawn up and held while a sheet is driven on by 50 nails, any real load is basically stacked up compressive and any wind and shear handled by the sheet and now days foamed to the stud. , Number 1 thing to prevent real structural damage is in storms with bracing to prevent the gables from blowing in or out + truss hold down clips and having 4 nails in shingles to keep them on.
Adding one more tight nail is worth all the fuggin around contemplating the length and size. A little care in placement doesn't hurt.
2ndly the nailing isn't all that big of a factor. It used to be more when the stud had to be hald qwhile another 10 boards were hand nailed to it. At the start 3 nails were good, by the end of the day 2 were fine.
Now it needs to be drawn up and held while a sheet is driven on by 50 nails, any real load is basically stacked up compressive and any wind and shear handled by the sheet and now days foamed to the stud. , Number 1 thing to prevent real structural damage is in storms with bracing to prevent the gables from blowing in or out + truss hold down clips and having 4 nails in shingles to keep them on.
sberry
Banned
What is "adequate" is whatever is called for in the plans. Yes smaller nails can do a fine job if you use enough of them.
If I was going to be doing any framing (which I might soon) then I would want to go with 3 1/2 .162 pneumatic nails. However, these are not super easy to find so I would probably end up going with 3 1/2 (or 3 1/4) .131 or .148 and just using more of them.
There is a reason they are not easy to find. They are reserved for special people who's boards need extra than most of the rest of the world uses. Kind of kidding but some truth to it. There are places engineered where someone needs them but to the general crowd what is on the shelf in bulk is the proper thing.
It becomes greater effort to upgrade than what its worth. This forum propagates a lot of this. Because it is a code minimum does not mean it is not well adequate.
Toomanytools?
Well-known member
Most framing code calls for 3 1/2" 16d nail, few years back clipped heads were not allowed only full head nails.Sounds like a dumb question but it seems like most contractors are using 3" ( air nails) is this atiquite for holding the studs to the top and bottom plates or should I go with a 3 1/4" nail? There is considerable cost difference for paslode. Thanks in advance!
Not all contractors do this "Contractors use whatever is cheapest to get the job done". I don't take shortcuts to save a few bucks when in the long run it will cost myself and the home owner more. Also I don't take the view "oh it's just a dog house or a garden shed I can skimp". True a dog house might not need 16d nails, but build it right.
MBfreak
MEMBER EMERITUS
More important , use hot dip galvanized nails. 3 or 3 1/4 no big deal.
They have considerably better holding power, and will not corrode.
Best regards
Ola
They have considerably better holding power, and will not corrode.
Best regards
Ola