Yet ANOTHER guy with a flooring dilemna - approx. 850 sq. ft

[Doug427]

I have a 4 bay garage, three abreast and the left bay two deep. I use the deep bay as a workshop. It's all automotive use, storing the daily drivers and a weekend "toy". I do automotive work in the garage, but nothing heavy. Little to no welding, just wrenching, etc.

Here's the problem. The garage is full of stuff, including a very heavy, hard to move 4 post lift. I don't know many people around here, so this is absolutely a me only job. Moving the lift by myself is a near impossibility. Also, if I have to empty the garage out completely, I really have nowhere to put the content for days at a time.

Given the above, while my first choice would be a beautiful epoxy floor with heavy flakes, the tremendous amount of prep, with grinding, patching, etc, will takes days and days and days, all the time with my "stuff" outside, and me making an absolute mess in the garage, working my tail off. Also, wondering what I would do with the lift in the meanwhile. None of this sounds terribly appealing to me.

Of course I have the option to pay someone to do it, but that's hugely expensive and doesn't solve the problem of what to do with the lift, and what do do with the stuff that's in there already while the folks I hire do days and days of grinding and prep.

I'm thinking that I need to do something that:

1- I can do a section at a time, moving my stuff from one bay to another, do the floor in that empty section, then move my stuff back to the section I just did and continue, etc. That would also seem to rule out epoxy, as I believe that you'd see where I started and stopped.

2- The darned lift again. I can't move it by myself, so I will have to work around it.

Given all that, I know what I do NOT want - any sort of ceramic or porcelain tile. I just don't want that in the garage. That seems to leave me with the following choices - very thick, heavy commercial vinyl tile, the plastic type interlocking floor tiles, or some of these new floor "paints" that some of the flooring experts on here seem to be talking about.

I'm not real big on the interlocking plastic tiles because they're very expensive and the few that I have seen are really noisy. I know this sounds crazy but to me they "sound" cheap. The constant clicking and clattering would drive me nuts. They also seem to be about the highest per sq. ft. charge. I don't even know if it's possible, but if so I'd like to keep the cost of this floor at about $2 per sq. ft. or less.

That seems to leave me with choosing between the commercial floor tile and learning more about these new paint type products. I know they're not just paint, but I don't know how else to describe them. I tried doing a GJ forum search on both the commercial vinyl tile and these new paint type products, but the amount of non related stuff that pops up on search is just overwhelming.

If I did the vinyl tile, I imagine that I will need to buy considerable extra to replace damaged and stained tiles over the years. I get that, and I have no problem doing that.

If I use one of these paint type products, can I do one section at a time? The floor is in reasonable condition. There are a few chipped areas, seams etc that I would like to repair. What other type of prep does these new products require? Can they be flaked? If the stuff is durable, resistant to tire lifting, and can be flaked, I would be very interested in learning more. If it can't be flaked, but can be done a section at a time, I'd still be interested in learning more.

I know vinyl tile has it's drawbacks, it will be damaged, etc. However, the cost and ease of installation is appealing to me, and it's so easy and cheap to repair tiles that get damaged. If I went this way I would buy a ton of extras rto have on hand for repairs over the years.

The newer paint type products have to be as durable, or almost as durable as epoxy for me to use them, as I imagine the floor after using this product can't be easily repaired seamlessly if ares of problems pop up.

Lastly, of course, if I am wrong in my assumptions about the interlocking plastic tiles or my understanding of the pitfalls of applying epoxy (clearly my first choice), please let me know.

Lots of questions here, I know. Any info and light you guys can shed on the subject would be appreciated. I'm now in the process of running the air lines (copper), electric, etc. Then I'll insulate and sheetrock the walls. I anticipate that if all goes well I will be doing the floor in the December to January timeframe, as I am doing all the above work myself when I am home and not working.

All thoughts, ideas and input are welcome.

Thanks!

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

You can do coatings but you will have visible seams.
If you have joints that cut the room up already then that would not be an issue.

 

[Doug427]

You can do coatings but you will have visible seams.
If you have joints that cut the room up already then that would not be an issue.

By coatings you mean epoxy? With flakes?

 

[Garage Flooring]

I have a 4 bay garage, three abreast and the left bay two deep. I use the deep bay as a workshop. It's all automotive use, storing the daily drivers and a weekend "toy". I do automotive work in the garage, but nothing heavy. Little to no welding, just wrenching, etc.

Here's the problem. The garage is full of stuff, including a very heavy, hard to move 4 post lift. I don't know many people around here, so this is absolutely a me only job. Moving the lift by myself is a near impossibility. Also, if I have to empty the garage out completely, I really have nowhere to put the content for days at a time.

Given the above, while my first choice would be a beautiful epoxy floor with heavy flakes, the tremendous amount of prep, with grinding, patching, etc, will takes days and days and days, all the time with my "stuff" outside, and me making an absolute mess in the garage, working my tail off. Also, wondering what I would do with the lift in the meanwhile. None of this sounds terribly appealing to me.

Of course I have the option to pay someone to do it, but that's hugely expensive and doesn't solve the problem of what to do with the lift, and what do do with the stuff that's in there already while the folks I hire do days and days of grinding and prep.

I'm thinking that I need to do something that:

1- I can do a section at a time, moving my stuff from one bay to another, do the floor in that empty section, then move my stuff back to the section I just did and continue, etc. That would also seem to rule out epoxy, as I believe that you'd see where I started and stopped.

2- The darned lift again. I can't move it by myself, so I will have to work around it.

Given all that, I know what I do NOT want - any sort of ceramic or porcelain tile. I just don't want that in the garage. That seems to leave me with the following choices - very thick, heavy commercial vinyl tile, the plastic type interlocking floor tiles, or some of these new floor "paints" that some of the flooring experts on here seem to be talking about.

I'm not real big on the interlocking plastic tiles because they're very expensive and the few that I have seen are really noisy. I know this sounds crazy but to me they "sound" cheap. The constant clicking and clattering would drive me nuts. They also seem to be about the highest per sq. ft. charge. I don't even know if it's possible, but if so I'd like to keep the cost of this floor at about $2 per sq. ft. or less.

That seems to leave me with choosing between the commercial floor tile and learning more about these new paint type products. I know they're not just paint, but I don't know how else to describe them. I tried doing a GJ forum search on both the commercial vinyl tile and these new paint type products, but the amount of non related stuff that pops up on search is just overwhelming.

If I did the vinyl tile, I imagine that I will need to buy considerable extra to replace damaged and stained tiles over the years. I get that, and I have no problem doing that.

If I use one of these paint type products, can I do one section at a time? The floor is in reasonable condition. There are a few chipped areas, seams etc that I would like to repair. What other type of prep does these new products require? Can they be flaked? If the stuff is durable, resistant to tire lifting, and can be flaked, I would be very interested in learning more. If it can't be flaked, but can be done a section at a time, I'd still be interested in learning more.

I know vinyl tile has it's drawbacks, it will be damaged, etc. However, the cost and ease of installation is appealing to me, and it's so easy and cheap to repair tiles that get damaged. If I went this way I would buy a ton of extras rto have on hand for repairs over the years.

The newer paint type products have to be as durable, or almost as durable as epoxy for me to use them, as I imagine the floor after using this product can't be easily repaired seamlessly if ares of problems pop up.

Lastly, of course, if I am wrong in my assumptions about the interlocking plastic tiles or my understanding of the pitfalls of applying epoxy (clearly my first choice), please let me know.

Lots of questions here, I know. Any info and light you guys can shed on the subject would be appreciated. I'm now in the process of running the air lines (copper), electric, etc. Then I'll insulate and sheetrock the walls. I anticipate that if all goes well I will be doing the floor in the December to January timeframe, as I am doing all the above work myself when I am home and not working.

All thoughts, ideas and input are welcome.

Thanks!

Doug,

You have a world of options. If you have expansion joints in the floor and you don't fill them, you can use them as natural break points. Post some pics and we can walk you through it.

If getting back to work is a major concern in terms of timing, and you are capable of working quickly Scotty or I and other vendors may have some non-epoxy coatings products that would give you the same look but cure faster. BUT you need to be quick with the install.

Are you able to move the lift from one side to another?

If you want to go the commercial route, Norsk and Exelia are likely NOT a good fit for this application. Exelia might be, but they are redoing the engineering on the underside and I can't say for sure until I play with it a little.

I would look at TrueLock PVC tile. That brings you to the PVC issues... PVC can stain from certain tires-- although its less common so can epoxy. There is a mop on solution you can use to help with that or you can actually put a urethane over the PVC. Me personally, I would design my pattern to have black tiles where the tires sit.

You could look at LVT and other commercial tiles, but ultimately short of ceramic or porcelain you end up with the same maintenance and stain potential.

Post some pics and when you get a chance, give me a call and lets talk some.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

By coatings you mean epoxy? With flakes?

Epoxy with Flakes, Nohr-S Polyurea with flake or no flake.
Nohr-S is heavy duty and may make more sense for a patchwork job.

It is not MOISTURE CURED, therefore, you could use half a can, put the lid on and then open a week later and not lose any material. Saving you money and aggravation.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Epoxy with Flakes, Nohr-S Polyurea with flake or no flake.
Nohr-S is heavy duty and may make more sense for a patchwork job.

It is not MOISTURE CURED, therefore, you could use half a can, put the lid on and then open a week later and not lose any material. Saving you money and aggravation.

Very good point here. If you do go with a Moisture Cured product, use one like Rust Bullet that can still be stored and reused for months after it has been opened.

With any product get the lid and rim clean and then reseal container. That way you avoid gluing it shut.

 

[Doug427]

What's the difference between a product like "Rust Bullet", Nohr-S Polyurea, and epoxy? I'm a bit familiar with the durability and application of epoxy, but what's the deal with the other two? What's involved with applying them, and what is the durability like compared to epoxy? Cost wise, approximately what am I looking at per sq. ft. complete with me doing the work? Can either of them be flaked? If so factor in medium broadcast of flakes. If it matters I am thinking is I go with a coated surface with a beige color with brown tone mixed flakes. If I do commercial vinyl tile it'll be the classic black and white.

 

[Garageguy65]

I have a 4 bay garage, three abreast and the left bay two deep. I use the deep bay as a workshop.


Here's the problem. The garage is full of stuff, including a very heavy, hard to move 4 post lift. I don't know many people around here, so this is absolutely a me only job. Moving the lift by myself is a near impossibility. Also, if I have to empty the garage out completely, I really have nowhere to put the content for days at a time.

All thoughts, ideas and input are welcome.

Thanks!

if you want epoxy here is what I would do. You have a 4 post lift. I assume it is the style with ramps? If so. Dont move it. work around it.

I would box the lighter items up, put 2x4 or 4x4 down on the ramps of the lift with 4x8 plywood over the 4x4's.. Making yourself a big table. stack everything you can on top of that lift.. move everything you can from the other 3 bays into the lift bay.

If you need to grind the floor i would partition the lift bay off with plastic floor to roof.. keep your items clean.

Epoxy ( if that is the route you decide to go) the other 3 bays. Then move everything from the floor of the lift bay back into one of the other finished bays then finish the lift bay with epoxy leaving the items on top of the lift.

If you have control joints I would start and stop on the joints..

Just a few ideas.

 

[Garage Flooring]

What's the difference between a product like "Rust Bullet", Nohr-S Polyurea, and epoxy? I'm a bit familiar with the durability and application of epoxy, but what's the deal with the other two? What's involved with applying them, and what is the durability like compared to epoxy? Cost wise, approximately what am I looking at per sq. ft. complete with me doing the work? Can either of them be flaked? If so factor in medium broadcast of flakes. If it matters I am thinking is I go with a coated surface with a beige color with brown tone mixed flakes. If I do commercial vinyl tile it'll be the classic black and white.

It is all about the application. Its not fair for me to talk about the plus and minus of a competitors product. Legacy has great products and I will let him tell you about them.

Rust Bullet is generally easier to install (no grinding or etching in general) than epoxy products and other coatings. It has incredible abrasion and chemical resistance. BUT it is a thin film system and thin film systems don't hide things real well. If you have flaws or prior coatings, sometimes its not a good fit.

Epoxy products are more difficult to install and will require grinding. You need to work smart, work fast and follow the instructions -- and people do it all the time.

The next big thing with epoxy is selecting the right top coat. We base this on where you are located and how you use your floor.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Epoxy is a great choice, proven technology, hides many sins in the floor.
Nohr-S is EASY, unlimited pot-life or issues with humidity, no mixing A&B, great durability with epoxy-like good looks.

 

[Doug427]

Scotty,

A few questions about Nohr-S if you don't mind. My floor is not in bad shape but it's not perfect either. No prior coatings. Justin mentions above a "thin coating" product that shows flaws. Would you consider the Nohr-S to be a thin coating, or more like an epoxy that tends to flow into semi flawed areas and levels out, helping to conceal some flaws? Additionally, if it can be flaked, wouldn't that help to hide some flaws as well? What is involved with applying this product? I know epoxy is:
Grinding, primer, epoxy, flakes then clear coat.

Is there any difference from this with the Nohr-S product? How does the product compare with epoxy for durability and cost?

I appreciate your help with this as I try to figure out what to do.

 

[Doug427]

It is all about the application. Its not fair for me to talk about the plus and minus of a competitors product. Legacy has great products and I will let him tell you about them.

Rust Bullet is generally easier to install (no grinding or etching in general) than epoxy products and other coatings. It has incredible abrasion and chemical resistance. BUT it is a thin film system and thin film systems don't hide things real well. If you have flaws or prior coatings, sometimes its not a good fit.

Epoxy products are more difficult to install and will require grinding. You need to work smart, work fast and follow the instructions -- and people do it all the time.

The next big thing with epoxy is selecting the right top coat. We base this on where you are located and how you use your floor.

Thanks for your very informative answers, Justin. I understand what you're saying about the thin film system. Can the Rust Bullet be flaked, and if so wouldn't that help hide some of the flaws that a epoxy would hide but the thin film system wouldn't? How is the rust bullet with regard to cost and durability vs. epoxy? What are the steps in applying it?

Thanks so much for your help with this.

 

[Doug427]

if you want epoxy here is what I would do. You have a 4 post lift. I assume it is the style with ramps? If so. Dont move it. work around it.

I would box the lighter items up, put 2x4 or 4x4 down on the ramps of the lift with 4x8 plywood over the 4x4's.. Making yourself a big table. stack everything you can on top of that lift.. move everything you can from the other 3 bays into the lift bay.

If you need to grind the floor i would partition the lift bay off with plastic floor to roof.. keep your items clean.

Epoxy ( if that is the route you decide to go) the other 3 bays. Then move everything from the floor of the lift bay back into one of the other finished bays then finish the lift bay with epoxy leaving the items on top of the lift.

If you have control joints I would start and stop on the joints..

Just a few ideas.

Great ideas! The car that lives on the lift would have to go elsewhere for a few days anyway, using the lift as a storage table type of thins is a great idea! Thanks for that. This is why I posted questions here. Can't think of everything, and most of you guys have been through this before. That help, plus the opinions of the great flooring suppliers on the forum here are priceless in helping to make the right decisions. Thanks to you all.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty,

A few questions about Nohr-S if you don't mind. My floor is not in bad shape but it's not perfect either. No prior coatings. Justin mentions above a "thin coating" product that shows flaws. Would you consider the Nohr-S to be a thin coating, or more like an epoxy that tends to flow into semi flawed areas and levels out, helping to conceal some flaws? Additionally, if it can be flaked, wouldn't that help to hide some flaws as well? What is involved with applying this product? I know epoxy is:
Grinding, primer, epoxy, flakes then clear coat.

Is there any difference from this with the Nohr-S product? How does the product compare with epoxy for durability and cost?

I appreciate your help with this as I try to figure out what to do.

It is a medium build.
We go down at approx 200 sqft per gal coat 1, 250 coat 2, 300 coat 3.
100% more flexible than epoxy, 50% more than urethane.

It's a premium product and therefore it is more money than epoxy.
Prep is similar, depending upon the substrate. We follow standard practices in our suggestions, for prep, in order to make sure you never have an issue.

It may cost us a few sales, but it's better than short-cuts that bite you later and unhappy customers.

 

[Doug427]

Thanks so much, Scotty. Your opinions and honest answers are very much appreciated. Sounds like grinding, etc, is still needed just like epoxy, the benefit to me in my situation is that I can stop and start, whereas the epoxy needs to be finished all at one time. Can the Nohr-S be flaked? Does it need a clearcoat?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If colored at least two coats of color. If flakes then a 3rd coat of clear is great.

Flake as you roll it.

Video on our site.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thanks for your very informative answers, Justin. I understand what you're saying about the thin film system. Can the Rust Bullet be flaked, and if so wouldn't that help hide some of the flaws that a epoxy would hide but the thin film system wouldn't? How is the rust bullet with regard to cost and durability vs. epoxy? What are the steps in applying it?

Thanks so much for your help with this.

Rust Bullet starts at under .80/sf and goes up depending on the system. With flake and a single coat of clear its about $1.13 +/- depending on how you end up buying the product and how much of what we ship you need (we ship you two gallons and you need 1.75 etc)

Another thing that makes it a good choice is you can buy it how you need it and apply it at a comfortable pace. We sell it in quarts, gallons and five gallons and there is no concern about pot life.

You can find full install instructions and a video here : http://www.garageflooringllc.com/rust-bullet-concrete/

The basic steps:

1. Clean your floor & allow to dry
2. Apply base coat
3. Apply Second Coat 4-12 hours later is ideal. Not more than 24
4. Apply Flake
5. Remove Flake that is not well adhered.
6. Apply Clear 4-6 hours later is ideal. Not more than 24.
7. Allow to dry for 72 hours from last stroke

You can find all types of installs, flaked, full broadcast flake, gray, white and lots of neat testing information here: http://www.garageflooringllc.com/tag/rust-bullet/

 

[Doug427]

Thanks, Scotty and Justin. Lot's to think about, you both give excellent advice about your respective products. At least now I have a better knowledge about alternatives to epoxy. I appreciate your time and generous sharing of your expertise. I'm sure some of the other guys here learned a great deal as well.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thanks, Scotty and Justin. Lot's to think about, you both give excellent advice about your respective products. At least now I have a better knowledge about alternatives to epoxy. I appreciate your time and generous sharing of your expertise. I'm sure some of the other guys here learned a great deal as well.

You are very kind. Regardless of where you buy product, the use of the forum is a great way to improve your projects success. There are a lot of great vendors and very knowledgeable people here.

 

[Jinks]

I'll leave flooring type to your choice & the professionals, but to solve your storage issue rent a P.O.D.S. or two. Set them in the drive, or lawn if you have to, move your stuff & do the entire floor as you want.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Perhaps consider our SOLID Supratile interlocking tiles. They are quiet and not noisy when walked on. You could do the job in a single day with zero prep. Just trim around the lift, no need to move it. With GJ discount pricing on the 4.5mm is only 2.50 per sq foot. Zero chance of failure, and an easy job if doing it yourself. 25 year Warranty too!

If you want to go the epoxy route then our Armorclad most definitely can be done in sections. Armorclad is a high build 100% solids system that will do more hiding than a thin mil system. Lots of great choices here.