wood stove

[that-guy]

I have a wood stove that my grandfather built in the 60's that has been passed down to me. my first initial thought was to use it to heat my garage, however I feel it will be better suited to help heat my home since my heating oil in my area is pretty outrageous, and I think the stove is a bit large for my 24 x 24 garage when it use to heat a much larger log cabin in upstate New York. my home is 1200 sq ft, single story with a basement and an existing HVAC system.

my question is, how could I use this wood stove to share the ducting with my central air furnace? I have 2 returns on the main floor, but none in the basement. could I just simply add a return near the wood stove in the basement so the radiant heat goes through the ducting?

also, I have a chimney in the middle of my house that a pipe from the furnace goes into, (see attached photo) and there is no fireplace in the house. can I do the same with getting the smoke out of the wood stove, or would the smoke make its way to the pipe coming out of the furnace? ideally I would rather go through the chimney than through my foundation wall...I'd really like to know what the purpose of this pipe from the furnace is

 

[930dreamer]

Will your insurance allow the wood stove for use in your home?

 

[Highbeam]

Trash the old homemade stove. It is probably illegal to install, it is in my state, and is certainly a pollution generating smoke dragon. To duct a woodburner there are several wood furnace options that include duct hookups and thermostats, clean burning technology, and actual UL listing and EPA certification.

 

[The Cobbler]

above poster nailed it.. plus you cannot use same flue to vent wood & gas .
in theory your idea is a good one, in practice it's asking for trouble on many fronts

 

[that-guy]

Will your insurance allow the wood stove for use in your home?

yes, if professionally installed...I know the stove is in safe working order, just trying to get an idea of what will need to be done to get it working the way I need it to

 

[930dreamer]

I found this;

http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...oodstove-to-existing-furnace-duct-work.43810/

http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/add-on-wood-furnace-advice.36827/

 

[p_mori7]

Back in the day when we had an oil fired furnace & a woodstove, we would simply run the furnace fan (constantly) to circulate air from the basement throughout the house (while the stove was lit and throwing off heat). It worked really well. The furnace pulled air straight from the basement (finished space) thru a filter.

 

[NUTTSGT]

yes, if professionally installed...I know the stove is in safe working order, just trying to get an idea of what will need to be done to get it working the way I need it to

Professionally installed, I don't think you'll get anybody to install the woodburner and vent it out the same chimney as the furnace. I've seen people do it but they have done it themselves.

Aside from that, does that chimney have a liner in it ?

 

[that-guy]

Professionally installed, I don't think you'll get anybody to install the woodburner and vent it out the same chimney as the furnace. I've seen people do it but they have done it themselves.

Aside from that, does that chimney have a liner in it ?

unsure if there is a liner or not, never got on the roof to inspect it...I was just simply asking the question of whether the wood stove and oil furnace can both exhaust out of the chimney and the answer looks like no...would be nice if I could run the furnace exhaust though the foundation wall and the stove through the chimney

what does a liner do, and how would one go about putting one in if it doesn't have one?

 

[theoldwizard1]

unsure if there is a liner or not, ...

I ASSUME the type of liner NUTTSGT is referring to is a stainless steel liner for use with super high efficiency furnace/boiler. They have to use stainless because there is so much condensation it would effect the typical masonry liner.

Stainless liner typically stick out past the top of the masonry chimney.

 

[Slowgsr]

I ASSUME the type of liner NUTTSGT is referring to is a stainless steel liner for use with super high efficiency furnace/boiler. They have to use stainless because there is so much condensation it would effect the typical masonry liner.

Stainless liner typically stick out past the top of the masonry chimney.

Mine does. Looks like oversized dryer vent. Connects to my sealed wood burner. Expensive stuff

 

[nehog]

As others are mentioning, a stainless metallic liner is important. There is no way I'd burn wood without one.

 

[Prospecter]

In Maine, code requires a separate flue for each appliance. The flues should be lined, but not necessarily with stainless steel. Clay liners are ok. So are SuperFlues, which are cast in place liners.

The pipe on the front of your furnace is the flue pipe from the furnace.

Another consideration is that heated air from a woodfurnace / stove is much hotter than an oil burner's, so the ductwork requires more clearance from combustibles.

 

[brewchief]

I would be surprised if you find anyone who will professionally install a homebuilt woodburner. Since it isn't UL listed there would be no manufacturer recommended clearances to insure it is a safe distance from combustibles.
International mechanical code states this,
905.1 General.
Fireplace stoves and solid-fuel-type room heaters shall be listed and labeled and shall be installed in accordance with the conditions of the listing. Fireplace stoves shall be tested in accordance with UL 737. Solid-fuel-type room heaters shall be tested in accordance with UL 1482. Fireplace inserts intended for installation in fireplaces shall be listed and labeled in accordance with the requirements of UL 1482 and shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions.


If you decided to install a listed wood burner it may be possible to add a sidewall vent kit to the oil furnace and vent it out the side wall. This is of course assuming that the currant masonry chimney is of proper size and in good condition or can be relined to accept the wood burner.

If I was considering this I would first have a professional chimney sweep do a through cleaning and inspection of the masonry chimney.

Adding a sidewall vent system to the oil furnace will not be cheap but it might be less then a new factory built chimney for the wood stove.

If you are in a situation that you would be buying wood then a pellet stove may be a good alternative, they can typically be sidewall vented and that could mean a considerably cheaper upfront cost but possibly a higher operating cost.

 

[that-guy]

I would be surprised if you find anyone who will professionally install a homebuilt woodburner. Since it isn't UL listed there would be no manufacturer recommended clearances to insure it is a safe distance from combustibles.
International mechanical code states this,
905.1 General.
Fireplace stoves and solid-fuel-type room heaters shall be listed and labeled and shall be installed in accordance with the conditions of the listing. Fireplace stoves shall be tested in accordance with UL 737. Solid-fuel-type room heaters shall be tested in accordance with UL 1482. Fireplace inserts intended for installation in fireplaces shall be listed and labeled in accordance with the requirements of UL 1482 and shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions.


If you decided to install a listed wood burner it may be possible to add a sidewall vent kit to the oil furnace and vent it out the side wall. This is of course assuming that the currant masonry chimney is of proper size and in good condition or can be relined to accept the wood burner.

If I was considering this I would first have a professional chimney sweep do a through cleaning and inspection of the masonry chimney.

Adding a sidewall vent system to the oil furnace will not be cheap but it might be less then a new factory built chimney for the wood stove.

If you are in a situation that you would be buying wood then a pellet stove may be a good alternative, they can typically be sidewall vented and that could mean a considerably cheaper upfront cost but possibly a higher operating cost.

this is all great information, and I highly appreciate it...I never looked into the stove for any sort of markings to say whether or not it was certified in any way, but will have to take a look next time. I am also not 100% sure if it was hand built like my father had once told me...either way, I will look into its certs and see what I need to do, as well as getting the chimney checked out

 

[NUTTSGT]

I ASSUME the type of liner NUTTSGT is referring to is a stainless steel liner for use with super high efficiency furnace/boiler. They have to use stainless because there is so much condensation it would effect the typical masonry liner.

Stainless liner typically stick out past the top of the masonry chimney.

Actually, I meant any type of liner at all, where it be metal or like a clay liner.

Personally, I rather not see the OP plumb a wood burner into that chimney only to find out is nothing more than just concrete block and possibly an old chimney plug stop that has been wallpapered over at about 3am when his house is on fire. Trust me, I've seen some wacked **** when it comes to woodstoves and chimneys.