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Roll-In Saw EF1459 owners, step inside

Ign

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I've been wanting one of these for awhile and have a used one coming. I've seen a few references on this board but nothing substantial, just enough to know there are a couple fans of this saw here.

I have a few questions:

1)I'm gonna have to have it on casters. Even though my shop is 40x50 I can't have a dedicated cutting station. I've really enjoyed having my 7x12 on wheels so this one will similarly have to be shoved out of the way when not in use. Roll-In offers a set of casters for about $130, which honestly ain't that bad for 4 casters, if they're quality. Anyone have experience here? Are they stem or plate mount?

2)it looks like the saw is missing the large C-clamp which anchors the work against the fence. Roll-In sells this, again, for about $130. I'm guessing I don't have many options here? Anyone just used something like a sliding F-clamp with success? Other suggestions for workholding?

Thanks!

Any other discussion of the EF1459, bring it!
 
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SM Racing

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That is similar to my Parma Work-a-matic saw. I put mine on a castered frame because the saw table was really short. Its nice to have it backed up against a wall when feeding stock in by hand. However its also nice to roll it away from the surrounding equipment to have room for really big stuff.

I bought a set of four casters from Surplus Supply for CHEAP. They were take offs from Kobalt tool boxes. So far no issues.

Mine didn't come with a fence at all. I made my own out of angle iron and some weld in reinforcements. Machined it all flat when I was finished. I use a normal C-clamp in some cases, in others I bought a hold down clamp kit and just use the table. My table is drilled and tapped.
When you refill the hydraulic cylinder after you put free o-rings inside, use very thin hydraulic oil. I used motor oil and don't have smooth travel. I need to drain and refill.
 

zkling

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Really interested in hearing long term use with a roll in style saw, preferably those that have it as their only saw. I've been heavily contemplating replacing a smaller horizontal and a vertical saw with just the roll in. :dunno:
 
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Ign

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Really interested in hearing long term use with a roll in style saw, preferably those that have it as their only saw. I've been heavily contemplating replacing a smaller horizontal and a vertical saw with just the roll in. :dunno:

Exactly, it seems to nicely blend the two.

Jet makes a copy but its China or Taiwan (I don't consider the two interchangeable, just can't remember right now) and from what I could tell the Dake (Parma?) is also Taiwan now. But it appears the Roll-Ins are still built in Ohio. What I found most interesting is that at least with new retail (even though I bought used) there's not much spread. The Jet tends to run $4k, the Roll-In ~$4700 and the Dake about the same. Zoro carries the Dake but their initial price is so out there even at 30% off it's not competitive.

Either way, if you're not in the machinery belt it's freight that's a killer. I'm paying $800 freight from a used dealer in Ohio to get it to Colo, but I'm still satisfied w the deal.
 

SM Racing

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No, these guys:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/

SM Racing, what size caster are you running and do you like it?

I think they are 5in. I would need to check.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Caster...-TOOLBOX-PLATE-CASTER-SET-1120-LBS-1-4109.axd


Really interested in hearing long term use with a roll in style saw, preferably those that have it as their only saw. I've been heavily contemplating replacing a smaller horizontal and a vertical saw with just the roll in.

Its not my only saw, but I love having it. I use it as a normal vertical band saw for all kinds of shapes, tubing, etc. Since its a powerfeed vertical I use it for parts that won't fit on my little toy 4x6 horizontal, or for big plate, etc. I clamp parts to the table, plus its nice to use on awkward parts.

I could live with it as my only saw, but I wouldn't be happy. Its not fast for setting up simple cuts. When I do roll cages or exhaust or things like that, the dedicated horizontal is much faster and easier to setup. Hopefully my new Ellis makes that even better.
 
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Ign

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^^curious about the Ellis, and this Roll-In for that matter......I've always been a believer in coolant on a bandsaw so not sure if I'm going to miss it on the Roll-In.

If nothing else I'll appreciate 2 saws during general fab; I may leave my 7x12" at 45 for miters and use the Roll-In for straight cuts, or maybe the other way around. The problem with swivel vise saws (vs swivel frame) is that changing angles takes forever, esp if you have to switch back and forth several times.
 

zkling

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Exactly, it seems to nicely blend the two.

Jet makes a copy but its China or Taiwan (I don't consider the two interchangeable, just can't remember right now) and from what I could tell the Dake (Parma?) is also Taiwan now. But it appears the Roll-Ins are still built in Ohio. What I found most interesting is that at least with new retail (even though I bought used) there's not much spread. The Jet tends to run $4k, the Roll-In ~$4700 and the Dake about the same. Zoro carries the Dake but their initial price is so out there even at 30% off it's not competitive.

Either way, if you're not in the machinery belt it's freight that's a killer. I'm paying $800 freight from a used dealer in Ohio to get it to Colo, but I'm still satisfied w the deal.

Yea, I've used one a bit for chopping up a piece of 3" mild plate and it was awesome. A task that would have killed the table on my vertical and been impossible on my little horizontal. Only hesitation(s) I have are the lack of throate plate/table insert (I looked at one roll in that was BEAT) The table slot was at least 1" wide where the blade chewed it out over the years. And the loss of tilt capability on the vertical. On a seldom occasion I need to rip stuff on an slight angle. Based on room it would have to replace my small vertical and horizontal saw. I have a 20" wood/metal as well, but even the table on that just isn't very heavy duty where I feel comfortable setting a large block on and going to town. :headscrat:

Unfortunately the only ones I've seen used thus far were either beat or went pretty high IMHO.
 
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Ign

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I hear ya. I've got an upcoming job where I have to cut relatively short pcs of pipe that I first bend at 90 for specific leg lengths. The horizontal 7x12 is not able to easily accommodate, or easily set a stop. If I load the uber flimsy table for vertical use and set a fence, I have to slide the pipe along the fence and we all know sometimes while you're pushing the work it comes away from the fence unless you're incredibly conscientious.

But w the Roll-In I can set my fence, clamp to the fence and let the blade feed straight into the work. Basically, the relatively large and heavy-duty table opens worlds of possibilities for jigging and fixturing, all while not having to manually shove your work into the blade.

I've been bugging SWAG forever to release a heavy duty table for the 7x12's as they're all pretty much identical, but I guess it's not profitable. Also the sliding blade guides on the 7x12 where the table bolts can only take so much weight and leverage. And yeah, I've been meaning to make my own table forever but apparently not a priority.
 

SM Racing

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^^curious about the Ellis, and this Roll-In for that matter......I've always been a believer in coolant on a bandsaw so not sure if I'm going to miss it on the Roll-In.

If nothing else I'll appreciate 2 saws during general fab; I may leave my 7x12" at 45 for miters and use the Roll-In for straight cuts, or maybe the other way around. The problem with swivel vise saws (vs swivel frame) is that changing angles takes forever, esp if you have to switch back and forth several times.


I know Ellis says no coolant and I have never used coolant on a vertical saw, Stick wax maybe, but not coolant. On my crappy 4x6 its never had coolant and I use it everyday all day sometimes or at least five+ times a week and other than blades breaking, I don't really have any complaints. I assume if I was doing tons and steel and such everyday coolant would be necessary, but I don't do that kind of work, I am small fab shop, not a huge manufacture.

The nice thing with the Ellis is the head swings for mitres so getting it reset square should be almost pleasurable compared to the half hour I waste resetting my 4x6 for mitres.


The Roll In could have a fixture plate that bolts to the table and you just clamp your parts down and make the cut for repetitive parts.
 
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Ign

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My EF1459 finally arrived yesterday! It went from Ohio to Iowa to South Dakota to New Mexico and then back up to me in Colorado.

The good news: it does have the factory clamp, which I gotta say is beautifully elegant in its design and simplicity. Everything appears to move fine and I see no appreciable damage.

The bad news: it was listed as 110/220 1ph but it's 3ph. Easy enough to remedy though, thank god for 56 frame motors. I have a 3/4hp Baldor "Farm Duty" I'm planning to install. It had a 1hp Baldor Industrial. However I think I'll be ok w 3/4hp in a quality motor like a Baldor? It's here, it's a direct fit and it's paid for so I'm gonna try. Oh yeah, rpm is the same at 1725.
 
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Ign

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Well I was about to order some inexpensive toolbox casters from Surplus Center as suggested above but then I remembered I have some nice Colson 4 x 2 casters in the shop. They are all swivel and I don't know if I'm going to regret having four swivel wheels on the saw but I am going to install brakes on all four. I ordered the tech lock brake kits from eBay today. Worst case I have to install two fixed casters later. However since this is going to be more of a "jigging" saw and less of a stock saw I think 4 swivels might be nice for maneuverability, when I'm wanting to shove it up against a wall out of the way.
 

zkling

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Would you please measure the overall floor space it needs, including all protruding levers? I don't care about height.
 
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Ign

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Would you please measure the overall floor space it needs, including all protruding levers? I don't care about height.

Overall width will be the table, fore/aft will be rear of rear feet to probably the feed lever. I'll check it out. They may have kept the lever tucked under the front lip of the table (which would be smart). Will see.
 
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Ign

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So rear of rear foot to front of table is about 40.125. Add about 3" for the handle. Table's 30.25" wide and that's the widest part of the saw by a lot. Base is 24.25" wide foot to foot.
 
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Ign

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I got the motor swapped last night and the saw is under power.

It's not cutting straight (veers right as viewed by operator) and I can see the blade regularly wobble between the rollers. Honestly I think the blade took a beating in transit, looks like it was banging against the fence w every bump.

If I need to adjust the rollers after new blades, does anyone have a manual for these? Also I found this little write-up on OWWM while searching, cool shot of a 50's vintage
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=11749
 
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Ign

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I'm unfamiliar w this sort of staggered eccentric roller setup. Just how much is it to be rotated or pre-loaded on the blade??
 

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Ign

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I emailed Roll-in asking if I could purchase an owners manual. They promptly emailed me a .pdf copy! Good service! Something to be said for US companies who support their products, which is one reason I had very little reservation about buying a used Roll-In - all parts are still sold on their website.
 
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Ign

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^^^so basically what I gleaned from the manual (which, honestly, is a bit lacking) is that both rollers are supposed to spin LOL.

Anyway one of my rollers was pretty convinced to NOT spin. The guide wheels press out from the back and then you can pull the bearings; I used a pilot bearing puller but an actual blind hole puller might be necessary if it's really stubborn.

The bearings are 5201-2RS, 12x32x15.9mm. I note this only to help others or myself in the future. I ordered 3 off Amazon for $16 ea mostly 'cause of Prime but they can be had for as little as $9 ea on eBay. Roll-In wants $45 per bearing, but they only want $24 per guide wheel (my seized guide wheel has a small flat worn into it so I'll likely replace).

Before I discovered just how locked up the wheel was I did get the saw cutting pretty straight w a new blade.
 
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Ign

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Just ordered two new guide rollers from Roll-In. Sadly, it felt like quite a novelty to call a number in Ohio and speak w someone who was clearly American to order parts for a U.S.-made product.

The rollers would be a simple affair on my lathe but not $24 easy, esp seeing as how they're a press fit in the bearings. I'll gladly pay the $24 ea and work on paying jobs instead. I attempted to capture the small flats that had been worn into the seized roller, but not sure my camera phone does it justice.

I'm honestly not sure the flats would be an issue, but while I've got it torn down for bearing replacement it just makes sense to replace anything questionable.
 

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Ign

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Finally got to use this tonight for the job which inspired the purchase.

Really liking it, the large table allows setups I could never do on my 7x12. However, it's more of a specialty saw and I wouldn't want it as my primary band saw, either.
 

zkling

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Finally got to use this tonight for the job which inspired the purchase.

Really liking it, the large table allows setups I could never do on my 7x12. However, it's more of a specialty saw and I wouldn't want it as my primary band saw, either.

O...please elaborate on that. This is something I've pretty much decided on, just waiting to find the right one to replace my hori and vert saws. For job shop type work do you still find it imitating?
 

GeoBruin

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Hey, all.

Waking this thread up because it has become relevant to me.

I'm a big bandsaw fan. My little benchtop horizontal bandsaw (Femi NG120 ABS) is one of my most used tools. I also have a Powermatic 143 as my vertical, but it gets used far less. I have a (small) cnc plasma setup I can use for cutting contours in sheet/plate. I mostly use the vertical for quickly cutting bolts, little notches, corners, etc.

I have been slowly making space in my small home shop for a nicer horizontal bandsaw. I was pretty set on a used Ellis of some flavor, with the 1600 being the largest I could possibly fit, and the 1200 being a slightly better fit, but still a bit cramped. That said, a used but very good shape Roll In EF 1459 has come up for even less than I have seen used Ellis saws. I was aware of these saws, but hadn't really thought about one as an option until I saw this one. For one, they are more rare (at least in my area, and especially in the 2nd hand market) and they seem to go for more money new.

I'm interested in feedback on the Roll In as an option to replace both my horizontal and vertical saws. I had also looked into the factory and shop-made tables to allow the Ellis saw to be used in vertical configuration, but it seems much more "fiddly" to have to switch it over every time I want to make a quick vertical cut. Also, because the spine of the Ellis is in line with the blade, I would be limited in making long cuts, which is one of the major benefits of a vertical saw. The Ellis also has a larger footprint in the long dimension, and because of the orientation, I would have to swing the saw around every time I want to cut a long piece of tube.

I understand the ideal scenario would be keeping a dedicated vertical saw and horizontal saw, but I'm in a small shop, so I make a lot of compromises. Given my situation, should I consider the Roll In as a viable alternative to the Ellis?

Thanks!
 

GeoBruin

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Well, I probably didn't do myself any favors by posting to a dead thread with an exclusive title but no matter, the deed is done. Now, inevitably everyone will arrive to tell me why I made the wrong choice!
 

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