Re-Roofing Garage and have a few ?

[turbodave]

So, it's time to put a new roof on my detached garage. It's a 24'x26' two car with a normal gable roof, no eaves. Original 3 tab shingles on it are from when it was built in the 70's and while there is no leakage I want to get it done before this winter.

So I'm looking at tearing off the existing shingles (they are too brittle for me to be comfortable roofing over them) and re-roofing with new 3-tab shingles. I've done a shed, and helped with 2 houses before so I'm pretty comfortable tackling this and am hoping a few buddies will show up to help. I do have a few questions as I'm starting to gather materials, however.

1.) Self adhesive ice and water damn. When we did the roof on my house we put this on the lower layer over the plywood, with traditional felt paper above. I know on a heated structure with eaves it makes a lot of sense. I budgeted it for the garage, but I'm wondering if it's overkill. My logic was that the garage is usually heated to 38-40deg in winter, with the heat turned at times when I'm working out there. So snow can build up on the roof when the heat is low and starts to melt when I crank the heat, then freezes again when I turn the heat down. I've never had any leaks or issues with the current roof, but was just thinking it's an extra level of protection.

2.) Shingles selection. I'm looking at Atlas 30yr/60mph rated 3 tab shingles, Menards has them on sale through tomorrow. Not worried about anything fancy, the garage is in the backyard and nobody really see's the roof, so it's just got to be functional. Also not my forever garage, would like to find a bigger property in the next 5 years or so. Anyone have experience with these? I've always used Owens Corning in the past and had no complaints there, but due to price and availability I'm considering the Atlas shingles.

3.)Roofing Nailers. I'll probably go with the Bostich RN-46, on sale for $179 and looks to be the most popular nailer used. I know it's only setup for a bump trigger, and I'm pretty sure this is the same one I've borrowed in the past, had a few double nails while getting used to it, but went pretty well after that. Being as this is the 3rd time I've needed a roofing nailer I figure it's time to get my own. Also looked at the Masterforce Nailer at Menards but couldn't find much feedback about it? I know Hitachi is the highest rated, but this isn't a tool I'll use that often, and I can deal with a few compromises to stay in budget.

 

[Elginz]

Not over kill with the ice and water barrier. I went with Pro Snap metal on my last two projects, and will replace my other roofing with it as need arises. So I can't say about the shingles.

 

[Keel]

nailer, you might stop at the local pawn shop to see if you can get a used one..

I'd always use the ice and water barrier..

no clue on the shingles

 

[dfiler2]

Definitely do the ice and water shield. As far as nailers go the Bostich is a good quality nailer and $179 seems like a good price. If I knew I wasn't going to use it often I might go with the Menards brand. I have a Masterforce narrow crown stapler and a brad nailer I bought one time in an emergency. I don't use them very often but they are 10 years old and still working.

As far as shingles go I would use an architectural shingle like the Owens Corning Oakridge, Menards has them for about the same price as 3-tab. They are much easier to put on and , in my opinion, look much better. They will go fine with the house as long as you go with a similar color.

 

[turbodave]

As far as shingles go I would use an architectural shingle like the Owens Corning Oakridge, Menards has them for about the same price as 3-tab. They are much easier to put on and , in my opinion, look much better. They will go fine with the house as long as you go with a similar color.

So I get that architetural shingles have a better warranty are rated for higher windspeed and probably a better product overall, but having never installed them (I've only done 3-tab) how are they easier to install?

From what I read they are heavier (so more work to carry up a ladder) and I can't trim them to make a starter strip or to cover the peak. The garage isn't a huge roof, so the cost factor isn't too bad $506 for architectural vs $345 for 3-Tab. Plus $35 starter strip and $40 for hip shingles and my budget is up another $200 with the architectural. Just curious about what makes them easier?

 

[404]

Bostich sells direct a trigger valve which will eliminate bump fire or double fire. Price was less than 3ed party sellers.

 

[Elginz]

I think they are easier also. One thing is they usually are thicker so when you use the gauge on the nose of the gun to line up they don't slide under to gun or the gauge misses on the bottom. You can be off on the nail spacing, and they don't rip at the slot when handling them.
And as mentioned " architectural shingles have a better warranty are rated for higher windspeed and probably a better product overall"
Bostich is the gun I have, no issues.

 

[turbodave]

Bostich sells direct a trigger valve which will eliminate bump fire or double fire. Price was less than 3ed party sellers.

Thanks, read about that on an old post here. Hoping I won't need it, but may order it ahead of time just in case.

 

[dfiler2]

So I get that architetural shingles have a better warranty are rated for higher windspeed and probably a better product overall, but having never installed them (I've only done 3-tab) how are they easier to install?

From what I read they are heavier (so more work to carry up a ladder) and I can't trim them to make a starter strip or to cover the peak. The garage isn't a huge roof, so the cost factor isn't too bad $506 for architectural vs $345 for 3-Tab. Plus $35 starter strip and $40 for hip shingles and my budget is up another $200 with the architectural. Just curious about what makes them easier?

You do need to buy some 3-tabs or starter roll and you need ridge cap, but no lining up the water lines, drive me crazy when I see a 3-tab roof with crooked water lines. I like to cut a set of starter shingles after I figure out where the shingle will end up ( you want to make sure you don't end up with a 1" strip at the other end). The set of starters allows you to go up quite a few courses at a time. I guess that is about the extent of it, not constantly making sure the lines don't get off just makes them seem easier to me.

 

[404]

Thanks, read about that on an old post here. Hoping I won't need it, but may order it ahead of time just in case.

My gun was unused but several years old (bought on sale long before I used it).

Trigger valve sprung a leak during the first use. Called Bostich and customer service was very very good, they ask questions about what the gun is doing and can tell what part is needed.

Despite the leak, I would buy the gun again, just have spare valves in advance. My wife and I did our roof over most of a summer, tore off 2 layers first.

DIY roofing tear off exposes all the cheap and leaky short cuts taken by the previous workers.

 

[brewchief]

If you have a decent building supply wholesaler nearby check them for price, we have a couple that are always equal to or better then the big box stores.

Rooftop delivery is worth it, the wholesaler here charges around 40$ for a one man delivery(you need to be there to grab the bundles and place them on the roof) or 75$ for a two man delivery(they send two guys, you don't even have to be home).

I always use water and ice. We will also have new drip edge on hand, sometimes the old stuff is fine and sometimes you can't help but damage stripping the shingles, if you don't need it return it.

Don't forget to get a pack or two of hook blades.

 

[McSpike]

Here, architecturals are actually cheaper than 3 tab. Strange. Architecturals carry a lifetime warranty here, too. 3 tabs are normally 25 years. As mentioned, you do need to buy 3 tabs to turn into a starter strip and ridge shingles. On a garage, you might need enough that you could just buy pre-cut starter and ridge shingles. I only did my shed, so it was too few to justify buying a square of either starter or ridge.

As to the gun, I just bought a HF one, figuring I'll seldom use it. I did my shed, but had my house roof done.

 

[ddawg16]

We call them 'dimensional' shingles.

Besides being more material, they look better and if you are off a little on your lines, you can't tell. 3-Tab shingles? Any mistakes in your lines and it's obvious.

Having done a roof.....I can't say you are actually saving a whole lot of money doing it yourself. One that size? Maybe $500. That is assuming you do the tear off yourself.

 

[owenst7]

I was a shingler for about ten years. Father and grandfather were both contractors. I own that Bostitch coil nailer. If you can find a used Senco, Max, or Hitachi, get that over the Bostitch. That gun is slow, heavy, jams a lot. I think it's too much money for a low end gun.

I don't understand why you'd want to get rid of bump fire. I've modded every nailer I've ever owned to operate that way. You will be slower than hell if you can't bump fire.

Do your ice and water shield 1 course above the roof to wall and any valleys. Don't skip drip edge. Drip edge goes on FIRST and overlaps at least 3 inches. Outside corners of drip edge get overlapped so they shed water instead of bucking. Don't skip starter/bleeder. Overhang your perimeter to your first knuckle on your index finger. The roof and the foundation are the two least convenient and most expensive things to deal with later. Its not worth saving a few bucks to screw around with shoddy construction.

Get your first 3-4 courses on and measure down from the ridge to the reveal line on the shingles on the far left and right of the field. You'll now have a measurement for how many inches out of square you are from the ridge. You can float about 1/4" per course to correct without it being visible from the ground. Check it again at a couple stages. You don't want to get to the ridge and have to drop one side 3". It will be very obvious.

Don't shingle left to right like carpenters that get paid by the hour. The correct way to shingle is diagonally just like the manufacturer prints on the bundles because that's the way they are designed to work with the fastener pattern and the mastic tabs.

 

[404]

I don't understand why you'd want to get rid of bump fire. I've modded every nailer I've ever owned to operate that way. You will be slower than hell if you can't bump fire.

Because I want the nail to be in the correct place. Perhaps with years of practice I could do this bump fire, maybe. I am more of a perfectionist and less of in a hurry.

 

[owenst7]

If you're bouncing the gun on the deck it will under drive nails anyway. You'll get the hang of it after a bundle of shingles or so. Just carry a flat bar and a shingle hatchet and be a perfectionist. There isn't as much technique as much as it is muscle memory. The experience is what teaches you how to work without getting tired. You can shingle just as well as an experienced guy, you'll just be slower and more tired . At the least, I'd practice for a coil before you start buying parts. A good gun will be easy to get the hang of.

I'm not a fan of 3 tab as an engineer, but they were easier to cut and they weigh less. Aesthetically and mechanically I'd use a laminate over a 3 tab assuming they are similar quality products. There's a big difference in quality between Homo Depot products and what your oldest local contractor uses.